STUDIO NICHOLSON" from the U.K. is gaining popularity for its attention to fabrics and minimalist designs. The third store in Japan opened in Kyoto in March this year. What was the designer Nick Wakeman, who is also known as a Japanophile, thinking when he created this store? We asked him directly about everything from his personal life to this season's items.
- Photo_Shimpei Hanawa
- Edit_Kazuki Sakaguchi
PROFILE
Born in England. He graduated from the Chelsea School of Arts with a degree in textile design, and gained experience at Diesel and Marks & Spencer before launching Studio Nicholson in 2010. After gaining experience at Diesel and Marks & Spencer, he launched Studio Nicholson in 2010 and started a men's line in Fall-Winter 2005.
The new store utilizes the traditional beauty of a traditional Kyoto machiya.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)Congratulations on the opening of the Kyoto store. This is our third store in Japan, following the Aoyama and "Shibuya Parco" stores. Why did you choose Kyoto this time?
The main reason is that I love Kyoto. In terms of business, I wanted to open stores in cities where people from all over the world gather, such as London, Paris, Tokyo, Seoul, and Shanghai, where we currently have stores. I have had my eye on opening a store in the Kansai area for two years.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)What do you like about Kyoto?
It is a place with many quaint Japanese-style buildings like this property. Besides, it is nice that it is compact enough to tour around on foot.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)What were the deciding factors in choosing this property?
This is a building with a long history, originally used as a precious metal workshop. I really liked the Kyoto machiya style and intuitively thought, "This is the place! I thought, "This is the place! I also decided on this location because it is in a busy area in the center of the city, but is tucked away from the main street, giving it a sense of serenity.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)How did you go about creating the store?
The design was commissioned to a local construction company with over 100 years of history. They know Kyomachiya very well, so they renovated the building while preserving the traditional charm of the beams and wooden structure. For the interior design, we asked someone who understands the philosophy of the brand well, who also worked on the Aoyama store. We gave them a mood board with references to houses and architecture from around the world, and they built it up based on that.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)One can also sense the minimalist aesthetics that are characteristic of "Studio Nicholson.
The materials we use for the interior are the same for all of our stores around the world. We try to use soft-toned wood, stainless steel, warm-colored concrete, and white tiles. So even though the locations are different, I think the space naturally has a "Studio Nicholson" feel to it.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)What is your favorite place in the restaurant?
The curtain in the front, the minimalist staircase, the paulownia chests that have been used since this was a precious metal workshop, the list is endless, but I especially like the bare wall on the second floor. The exposed walls on the second floor are my particular favorites. Normally, they are supposed to be hidden, but the way the insulation material and the bamboo frame covering it look so nice, I dared to leave them as they are. I liked the texture of the insulation, which is not the kind of insulation used in so-called modern houses, but rather a mixture of mud and straw.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)The lanterns that softly illuminate the interior of the restaurant are also impressive.
These Kyoto chochin are made using traditional techniques. Unlike ordinary chochin, which are made from a single long bamboo spiral, this one is made from a single bamboo spiral, which requires much more effort. In fact, they have a sound system inside and are used as speakers.
Japan is a source of inspiration.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)Nick, you visit Japan often. How many times have you visited Japan this time?
I have been here 3 or 4 times every year since 1999, so I have already been over 100 times. But I am still not tired of it and keep coming back. With the opening of the Kyoto branch, I am happy to be able to come back like this.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)More than 100 times,! Why do you love Japan so much?
When I first arrived, I was really impressed by how meticulously everything was taken care of. Everything has crazy attention to detail. The neon signs all over the city also looked fresh. London at the time was a dirty, shabby city, so I remember being very impressed. I have been a captive of Japan ever since.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)Are there any places you must visit when you come to Japan?
I go to my friend's izakaya "Narukiyo". It is my favorite place because it is delicious and has a nice atmosphere. I also go for a walk at Meiji Shrine to get rid of jet lag.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)What are some other classic ways to spend time?
I am a shopping monster, so I am always bombarded with vintage clothing. That's what inspires me to create clothes. I also like to observe people.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)Before,Collection based on the school run motifand I thought your point of view was unique. In your human observation, do you look at fashion?
Of course I pay attention to what they wear, but I like to imagine their lives. What kind of personality, what do they like, what kind of house do they live in? I observe people in the city while thinking about these things. Sometimes I get inspiration for my creations from there.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)Do you have any involvement with Japanese fabric makers or sewing factories in the process of making clothes?
I often use fabrics made in Japan. I value fabrics more than anything else, so I rely on the high quality of fabrics made by Japanese manufacturers. I also ask three factories to sew my denim, cut-and-sew, shirts, and socks, respectively.
I can't imagine life without music.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)Then I would like to ask about personal things. Are there any routines or things that are essential to your daily life?
In terms of routine, my morning walk with the dog is important because it puts my mind at ease. I love to drive because I love cars, and friendships are essential. Friends that I can trust with my heart are like family to me now.
In terms of clothing, I still wear the "Studio Nicholson" brand.RISO DenimI wear "I'm wearing it every day. I don't know how many pairs I already have. These sandals are also an essential part of my wardrobe and I wear them all the time.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)I've got a playlist called "Modular Sounds."SpotifyandWebsiteWhat is your approach to this?
Modular Sounds" is an initiative that invites collaborative curators to create playlists. We believe that a playlist is not just music that is played continuously, but a window into the curator's own aesthetic sense and thinking. So far, we have collaborated with a variety of creators, including actor Killian Murphy and musician Hanya Lani.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)Indeed, Nick's playlist, which is the first installment of the series, shows a minimalist aesthetic that is typical of Studio Nicholson. What does music mean to you?
It is so important that we cannot imagine life without music. Music helps us to escape reality, to dream, to imagine. Whenever I listen to music, I imagine people dancing and their clothes swaying. This inspires me to create clothes.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)What kind of music do you usually listen to?
I am a big fan of Radiohead. I especially like Thom Yorke's music, which I listen to almost every day. As for Japanese artists, the electronic musician Shinichi Atobe is the best. I also listen to a lot of contemporary classical music. I also listen to movie soundtracks. Recently, the soundtrack to "Bugonia" was wonderful. The soundtrack of "Babel" is also a favorite. I like music that is not just background music, but music that moves me.
Collaboration with Echape, drawn by our commitment to materials.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)What was the theme you designed for the Spring/Summer 2026 collection?
The theme for this season is “REALITY IN TOUCH - Effortless in Touch and Margin”. Through the use of lightweight materials and textures, we are seeking to create clothes that fit naturally with the body, focusing not on how they look, but on how they feel. This collection is for people who choose clothes based on their own experiences and values, rather than being influenced by trends and the eyes of others.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)The visuals were shot in Kichijoji, right?
I learned about the Kichijoji area from some of my acquaintances who lived there. When I actually went there, I was attracted by the streets that reminded me of daily life in Japan. The fact that it is not in the center of the city, but in a quiet residential area some distance away, seemed to fit the philosophy of the brand, and I decided to shoot here.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)Studio Nicholson's creations are rooted in its commitment to fabrics, but what fabrics did you focus on this season?
It is a leather-like coated cotton. Leather, which is currently trending, is a material that the brand values, but there may be people who do not want to wear leather from an animal rights standpoint. So, as a sustainable alternative material, we created a leather-like coated cotton. It is coated with polyurethane, which makes it more durable and water-resistant than wax. In terms of men's wear, this "OVER JACKETThe company has adopted the following new technology for the "Mere Old Man".
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)Are there any items in the 2026 Spring/Summer collection that you have a strong emotional attachment to?
This "METER JACKETis a key item for this season. It is made of a mix of Italian wool and cotton, and the depth of the two-tone fabric is appealing. I like the color and the leather accents on the pockets.
The rest,This shirtI also love the It is a blend of lyocell and silk, and the way the fabric shimmers is beautiful. I also love the fine stripe pattern.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)Commemorating the opening of the Kyoto store [JoonÉchapperI also love the capsule collection with the "〉".
Thank you very much. We have made four models in total: a silk pajama set-up, a linen gown, and leather room shoes.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)How did you come to collaborate?
Collaborations always start when I buy a product from the brand. This time was no different, and it all started when I bought a towel from "Echape. I was impressed by the quality of the product, and as I researched the brand, I learned about their commitment to materials and dyeing, and I fell in love with "Echape. So I sent an e-mail to the director, Mr. Hisasaki. In the course of our correspondence, I learned that Mr. Hisasaki was a Kyoto lover, and we decided to work together to create something for the opening of the Kyoto store.
This collaboration was realized by combining a silhouette that is typical of [Studio Nicholson] with natural dyeing, which is one of [Echappe]'s strengths. I am very pleased with the dark navy, which is close to Studio Nicholson's signature black, using logwood as the dye.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)We originally started with womenswear and have steadily expanded our territory to include menswear and bags. Are there any categories that you plan to focus on in the future?
I am planning to focus on the homewear area. I think it is wonderful to wear something as beautiful when you spend time at home as when you go out. I would be happy if people wear Studio Nicholson clothes at home as well as outside. In that sense, the collaboration with "Echape" this time was exactly what I wanted to create.
long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)Any last words?
The Kyoto store is compact and not located in a highly commercial area, so I would like to emphasize the connection and sensitivity to the local people.
STUDIO NICHOLSON KYOTO
Address: 268 Enpukuji-mae-cho, Takoyakushi-sagaru, Teramachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
Phone: 075-708-6602
Hours: 11:00 - 20:00
