chestnut fieldWell, I'll start with the first one, too, an art T-shirt. The first one is a photo print by William Wegman, who is an artist famous for his anthropomorphic dogs.

section (of an orange, etc.)Was it a Weimaraner?　You take pictures of all these breeds, don't you?

chestnut fieldI bought one a few years ago and thought I had seen something like it before, so I looked it up and found that it was his work.

section (of an orange, etc.)I remember when they were sold in real time in the 90's at select stores, not vintage clothing.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)What is this Mao?

chestnut fieldIt is the work of an artist named Ken Brown, who also did animation for Sesame Street. I think this MICKEY MAO was created in the 80's or so. I've been paying attention to art-related T-shirts recently. Especially Escher (Maurits Cornelis Escher) and his works seem to have already skyrocketed in price.

section (of an orange, etc.)All of it obtained in the U.S.?

chestnut fieldYes, they are. All of these were acquired in the U.S. at the time of the purchase. This one is probably by Raymond Pettibon.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Oh, yeah. He's also famous for his artwork for Black Flag and Sonic Youth.

chestnut fieldI believe his brother was Clegg Zinn, guitarist of Black Flag.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, yes. Is this Jack Kerouac?

chestnut fieldYes, it is. I think it's probably a boot, though, since there is no copyright notice.

Fujiwara:Are you choosing these areas purely on the basis of the motifs depicted?

chestnut fieldThat's right. To be honest, I do not have a deep knowledge of art. Of course, I also need to know the culture and backbone of the work.

Fujiwara:Is it something that already has a reasonable price in the US?

chestnut fieldEspecially around Escher, which I mentioned earlier, I was able to purchase used clothing at normal prices until a few years ago, but recently the prices have become a bit unaffordable even in the United States.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Maybe it was also significant that Supreme did it (Maurits Escher and Raymond Pettibon were both featured a few years ago).

chestnut fieldIndeed. Lichtenstein (Roy Lichtenstein also featured in the 00s) has been soaring lately.

chestnut fieldThe second is a fishing vest from the 1980s, made by Columbia and L.L. Bean. I like the older ones from the 50s and before, but recently I've been interested in the ones from the 70s and after. They are wide and have a catchy design, so I thought they would be good to throw on over a jacket or coat. I don't carry a bag much these days, so I thought it would be useful as a simple replacement for a bag (laughs).

section (of an orange, etc.)It hasn't gotten that high, has it?

chestnut fieldYes, that's right. However, there was a period around last year when the popularity of this area was concentrated among young customers, and I paid attention to the U.S. as well, but even though there are unknown brands from Taiwan, I have the impression that outdoor brands such as Columbia and L.L. Bean are more numerous in Japan than in the U.S. I have the impression that there are more outdoor brands like Columbia and L.L. Bean in Japan. If you go around Seattle or Portland, you might be able to find a lot of stuff.

Fujiwara:But isn't it short in length and quite unbalanced when actually worn?

section (of an orange, etc.)Isn't that a good thing for the younger generation?　It's a contrast between the long and short term.

chestnut fieldRecently, fishing and kayaking items such as Patagonia's "Scano Rack" and "SST Jacket" seem to be doing well, and I've become accustomed to seeing them.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)There are a lot of good things at Columbia in this tag era, aren't there?

section (of an orange, etc.)That's right. Speaking of "Columbia," Mr. Kobayashi (......Research" representative) was an amazing collection. That's what I saw at HOUYHNHNM's (see HOUYHNHNM's "In-depth Research on Columbia's Fishing Vests").

chestnut fieldThe third is a double rider made of flight jacket material. The third is a double rider made from flight jacket material. It was purchased from an old stock that was found when a military shop we have known for a long time was cleaning out their warehouse.

section (of an orange, etc.)France?

chestnut fieldLooking at the flasher, it seems to be a brand called "Panodore. The old man at the military shop told me that "MC Hammer wore this brand's pants in the early 90's, and it became popular in the U.S.".

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Those sarouel-like things?

chestnut fieldNo, I don't think it's that one (laughs).

Fujiwara:Not only the materials, but also the zippers and other parts seem to be all military.

chestnut fieldOh yeah. In case you're wondering, the bag had a '94 sticker on it, so I'm assuming production was around that time as well.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)When I saw these in Kuri-chan's showroom right after I bought them, I tried to stock up on a number of them, but they said, "Give us a break around there.

chestnut fieldBut the truth is that it wasn't as good of a turnover as it sounds (laughs).

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)No kidding, right? Such a good product doesn't sell.

chestnut fieldWell, I have been buying for many years, and I was personally proud that I found something interesting in deadstock for the first time in a long time, but in fact, most of the items I found were small sizes, 34 to 36, and now, on the contrary, I would have preferred bigger sizes, 44 to 46.

Fujiwara:Do you wear it yourself, Mr. Chestnut?

chestnut fieldI used to have a few of them, but I don't have any double riders on hand at the moment, but I might wear this one. However, I think I will wear only this one, because it is almost a faithful reproduction of the old riders' silhouette and the shape is good and the material is soft and easy to wear, even though most of them made in the 80's and 90's are arranged in a stuffy silhouette.

chestnut fieldThe last one is military-related, but there are actually two mysterious models: the ECWCS (Extended Cold Weather Clothing System, a layering system developed by the U.S. Army's National Research Center in the 1980s) GEN3 Level 4 "windshirt" model and the UCP (Universal Camouflage Pattern) model, both of which are probably made from samples. There is a model called "Wind Shirt," which is a level 4 of ECWCS (Extended Cold Weather Clothing System) GEN3, and many of them were officially adopted by Patagonia, and UCP (Universal Camouflage Pattern) is commonly used.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Indeed, they are almost identical in form.

chestnut fieldThat's right. The windshirt itself is based on Patagonia's "Slingshot Jacket," and the "M.A.R.S." (see Vintage Summit 4), which was also manufactured by Patagonia, uses a model based on the "Slingshot Jacket. I found a model that I think might be a sample of the "M.A.R.S." version.

section (of an orange, etc.)And this is it?

chestnut fieldYes, it is. Patagonia always indicates the season and year of release on the inside tag, but there is no year on this item. The pull-tags are also simple and different from the general production version. In other words, I think that the first three items I showed you (the three items on the right in the photo) are samples or prototypes for general soldiers, and the next one (the item on the left in the photo) is a sample or prototype for special forces.

section (of an orange, etc.)I see. Where do you get something so rare?

chestnut fieldAs for the former, perhaps it was a rug shop.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I don't know how you find them. The first person who showed me would have gone through it completely if I hadn't been told.

Fujiwara:Indeed. Even the zippers are clearly made with materials available. If I hadn't heard what Mr. Chestnut said, I would have definitely passed it up if I saw it at a thrift store.

chestnut fieldI haven't been able to confirm it myself yet, but I saw another competitor posted the same thing on Instagram earlier, and he also wrote that he was told by an American military shop that it was a prototype for a windshirt.

section (of an orange, etc.)There are no tags or anything at all, so maybe it's indeed difficult to get complete details.

Fujiwara:Is M.A.R.S. officially adopted in the first place?

chestnut fieldIt is generally said that "M.A.R.S." was the trial line of PCU (Protective Combat Uniform), which was officially adopted later, but I have seen photos of soldiers wearing it and the original carton that contained the R2 when I found it dead in the past was from ADS (Atlantic Diving Supply Inc. is a company that manages and manufactures standards for ECWCS, PCU, and other military supplies), so I am sure that some of them were supplied to the military.

Fujiwara:But they never use "das Parka" or anything like that, do they?

chestnut fieldI've certainly never seen anything like that area. However, before the development of M.A.R.S., PCU, Happy Suit, etc., soldiers used to wear outdoor apparel such as Patagonia while on duty, and it is said that the demand for such apparel led to its development, so I guess we can't say that it is completely absent.