Fujiwara:Now, in connection with Mr. Konno's coveralls, I would like to show you some coveralls as well. First of all, I would like to introduce "31" by Lee. The "31" was a low-priced model from the 1930s, but I had been longing for a pair since the 90s, when the house-marked 91-J released at the same time was priced at less than 100,000 yen, and already priced at 300,000 yen. However, even when I did find one, it was either too large or in unsatisfactory condition, so I had a series of near misses over the years.

section (of an orange, etc.)Well, G-jeans are overpriced, and there are many interesting features unique to coveralls, so I don't think they should get more attention.

Fujiwara:That's right. I also want to make coveralls more popular, and I have my children wear Big Jack's 30s coveralls as a gifted education (laughs).

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)You're in pretty good condition.

section (of an orange, etc.)Still, if it's a lower-priced model, does that mean that the fabric or color fading is inferior to the regular version?

Fujiwara:The ounce of fabric may be slightly lower.

chestnut fieldOff topic, but which is more expensive, the Levi's "213" (a cheaper version of the 506XX, commonly called the "First") or the "506XX" released at the same time?

Fujiwara:In fact, "213". These days, the Great War model (a simplified version produced during World War II) and the "213" are about the same price. Perhaps the reason is the overwhelmingly small number of balls.

section (of an orange, etc.)Like the artist T's that Konno showed us earlier, this means that the vintage clothing market has been completely turned around by low-priced versions or bootlegs made for those who can't afford the official products.

all of usIndeed.

Fujiwara:In my case, G-jeans are basically oversized, but as for coveralls, they have to be just right or they look hopelessly unflattering on me (laughs). (Laughs) Mr. Abe often wears oversized coveralls in a very neat way, and I envy him. Personally, I collect mainly 36s and 38s. The other one I brought, this green "44-J," is also a 38, I think.

section (of an orange, etc.)The "44-J" is a commemorative graduation gift from Princeton (Princeton University. The Princeton Tiger, which is also the school symbol, and the year of graduation are printed on the back. (See Vintage Summit 3.) But are there any printed ones, including those from other universities?

Fujiwara:This is embroidered, but I haven't seen many prints outside of Princeton University.

chestnut fieldI used to have a "44-J" of the same design as this one, probably from Solority.

section (of an orange, etc.)What do you mean?

chestnut fieldThese collegiate ones with Greek letters like α and Θ are not school names but fraternity grubs, and a fraternity composed only of men is called fraternity, while a fraternity composed only of women is called sorority.

chestnut fieldThe name embroidered on the chest looks like a woman, and I thought that's why the size is small.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yale University also has an organization like Skull and Bones (a secret society within Yale University founded in 1832).

section (of an orange, etc.)Yes, there is. I heard that Bush belonged to it.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)When I was researching antique Tiffany & Co. before, Tiffany & Co. made the Skull & Bones badge, and I guess that kind of class culture still exists in America.

Fujiwara:My second shirt is a dotted shirt. Most of them are from the 60s and 70s, so they are not particularly rare. I have been interested in these shirts for more than 10 years, but they were too gaudy for me at that time and I could not afford them.

section (of an orange, etc.)Brand.

Fujiwara:The "Traditional," "Wear Ever," and other minor items were mostly minor, with only this Saddleman-tagged "Levi's" one being slightly more unusual. When I wore it out to the store one time, it drew quite a bit of laughter in the inner circle.

chestnut fieldThis red dot on white background is totally Yayoi Kusama (lol)

all of us(Laughter)

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)A long time ago, a "garage sale" in Tsudanuma once offered a batch of shirts with saddleman tags from this era, and I passed on them at the time, but now I regret that I should have bought them.

section (of an orange, etc.)It means they were proposing such fancy shirts to cowboys and others at the time.

Fujiwara:Yes, maybe it was still conservative until the 50's, but the saddleman tag was introduced in the 60's, so by that time, these suggestive patterns must have been introduced to some extent.

section (of an orange, etc.)But it's still difficult to wear it without getting into anything (laughs).

Fujiwara:If you want to wear it with denim, just barely (laughs). Until recently, I used to wear only button-down shirts so thoroughly that when I thought of shirts, I thought of B.D., but since the store became associated with Faux Alpha, I've become more interested in open collars and the like. I also recently took down the 66 (501 66 model) that I am wearing now, and I have decided to wear only this for a while, so I thought it would be just right if the tops were a little flashy.

section (of an orange, etc.)Do you get out quite a bit?

Fujiwara:No, it's at the level of whether or not one piece comes up in one purchase.

section (of an orange, etc.)It doesn't seem to be a pattern that was popular at the time.

chestnut fieldIt must be hard to get out because it didn't catch on.

section (of an orange, etc.)What about the shirts themselves now?

Fujiwara:The price has not risen that sharply yet, but what used to cost 5,800 yen or 6,800 yen is now going up to 9,800 yen or 12,800 yen.

chestnut fieldI think the number of balls is obviously decreasing. Well, unlike denim, etc., the short lifespan probably means that there are no pieces left in good condition.

Fujiwara:The third is a work vest. I like the look of it because it looks military, but I'm totally unaware of the details, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to verify it with you guys.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)If it says "Not Fire Resistant", doesn't that mean that some of them are made of fire resistant materials, as opposed to the other way around?

chestnut fieldSo I guess it must be a fireman's best. And if not, I wouldn't bother writing this alert. Since fireman's jackets and other less authentic items are always marked with similar wording.

section (of an orange, etc.)First of all, the details are interesting. I've actually seen it a few times at a vintage clothing store in Osaka, but I wonder when it was made?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The tag and the details make it look like it's from the 60's. The stitching is olive, and I think it was sewn at a factory that made military items without changing the machine thread. The stitching is olive, and I think it was sewn without changing the thread on the sewing machine at a factory that makes military goods. Sometimes, even with OD military items, there are irregular items like snow camo that were sewn without changing the sewing thread after the white body was sewn.

Fujiwara:To be honest, I hesitate to wear it because it looks like a red chanchanko.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)No, it looked good on you.

section (of an orange, etc.)It's a detail work that's similar to hunting or something like that. There are lots of pockets, and you don't need a bag for this.

chestnut fieldAlthough you yourself called it a fireman earlier, maybe it is for lumbermen (forest workers). Maybe they are using flashy coloring in case of distress or to avoid being mistakenly shot by hunters, etc.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)But PROPERTY OF U.S. GOVT means it's government property, right?

chestnut fieldFor example, a forest worker in a national park.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Oh, I see.

section (of an orange, etc.)It also has details that look like Filson (a brand synonymous with U.S. hunting wear), and I agree with the latter rather than Fireman.

Fujiwara:Really, it would be great to have an OD on this or something.

chestnut fieldI have to admit, this is the first time I've seen it. I'm curious, so I thought I'd look up the details online, but I don't know the search terms (LOL).

Fujiwara:Last but not least is a T-shirt featuring artists from the 90's. It is packaged in the shape of a book. The series is called "Largely Literary" and was sold at bookstores at the time in book-shaped packages. I bought a batch of about 50 different types from deadstock, from which I was able to buy only a few.

section (of an orange, etc.)Looks like there was a Jack Kerouac or something.

Fujiwara:Yes, although there was only one.

section (of an orange, etc.)Is the person who draws this also famous?　The deformation looks a little like Hari-sunao (laughs).

all of us(Laughter)

Fujiwara:I had seen some of the patterns in vintage clothing, but I still thought the person who served as the motif was more important than the illustrator.

section (of an orange, etc.)Who did Yutaka buy?

Fujiwara:I am Bach and Lewis Carroll.

section (of an orange, etc.)Who is Lewis Carroll?

chestnut fieldI think he is the author of "Alice in Wonderland".

section (of an orange, etc.)That's right.

Fujiwara:There are several different types of bodies, including Haynes, and it looks like they were sold in 1989 and 1990 (according to our editorial research, mugs were also developed around the same time). (According to my editorial research, mugs were sold at the same time.) I almost only wear plain or collegiate-style clothing, so this is a fairly new experiment for me.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)When I spoke with Mr. Yamada (owner of Berberzine) when he first started collecting this series, he told me, "It looks like the person who drew this illustration is still alive, so you should ask him to do it, too, Konno. If I wore a T-shirt with my face on it, I would be a pretty dangerous guy (laughs). It would also be a little complicated to have someone else wear it (laughs).

all of us(Laughter)