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FEATURE｜Exclusive Vintage Meeting
Vintage Summit Spin-off In-depth focus on the third model of Levi's®, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary!

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Exclusive Vintage Meeting

Vintage Summit Spin-off In-depth focus on the third model of Levi's®, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary!

The 70505, introduced in 1967 as the successor to its predecessor, the 557, was born as a denim jacket to the famous 505™ denim bottom, which, as the end of its part number indicates, was made of preshrunk denim. The front pleats, which had been seen in the so-called "second model," were eliminated, and V-shaped stitching running from the flap pockets to the waistline was adopted to give the jacket a more modern look. The refined design with no waste whatsoever was heralded as the perfection of the denim jacket, and was loved by many people thereafter. This year marks 50 years since the debut of the historical masterpiece "70505. To commemorate this event, this year's Vintage Summit is a spin-off project that focuses on the third model of Levi's®! Four well-known experts will bring their own personal items and talk about them to the fullest. The four well-known experts brought their own personal items and talked about them to the fullest. They covered not only the 70505, but also its predecessor, the 557, and its derivatives made of materials other than denim, broadening the scope of the third model to include all of them. The third model is a familiar model that every vintage enthusiast has owned, but the more you know about it, the deeper you get into it. We hope you will enjoy the world of the third model, which is the ultimate item as a standard item.

  • Photo_Takeshi Kimura
  • Text_Takehiro Hakusui
  • Edit_Yosuke Ishii
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Tomohiro Konno(Photo left)
NEXUSVII. designer, born in 1977, started " NEXUSVII." in 2001 in New York. In addition to original items, the official web store offers a selection of vintage clothing. He boasts the largest vintage archive in the industry.

Fujihara Yutaka(middle left)
Born in 1977, he is the director of Ber Ber Jin® and is known as one of the best vintage masters in the industry. He is known as one of the best vintage masters in the industry, especially in the field of denim, boasting an impressive collection of pants and jackets, and supervising the official 501®XX book "THE 501®XX - A COLLECTION OF VINTAGE JEANS" published by World Photo Press. (published by World Photo Press).

Michihiko Kurihara(middle right)
Vintage buyer, born in 1977, started his freelance career in 2011. He is one of the most trusted vintage buyers in Japan, not only from vintage clothing stores but also from select stores. He spends about half of the year in the U.S., and you can check out his stoic buying lifestyle on Instagram.

Takashi Abe(Photo right)
Staff member of BEAMS Online Shop. born in 1976. He has been involved in men's fashion magazines as an editor and writer for many years, and is an expert in handling many articles related to vintage clothing. Currently, he is in charge of writing for the company's website, etc. , and is also known as a collector of vintage bandanas.

Lecture 1: Tomohiro Konno

. are more attracted to different materials and derivative models than to denim.

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What was your first third type and what was your impression of it?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The first one I got, I think it was during my freshman year of high school, and I remember it was a navy corduroy with a white boa collar. The price was still within the reach of students. However, at that time, I was still longing for firsts and seconds. It was not until I started making my own clothes that I began to look at the third model more consciously. I have referred to the length, silhouette, and other aspects of the balance of these styles several times. . Personally, I am more interested in different materials and derivative models than in general denim.

Konno's Pick up_01

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70519-0937 E

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Let me start with myself. 3 or 4 years ago, I had a boom in brown duck, and just at that time, I prepared "70519-0937 E" in duck material, which was given to me by Mr. Yutaka (Fujihara Yutaka) at a very low price. I own a brown one, and a search for the same part number confirmed white and light blue, so I'm assuming at least three models exist.

Fujiwara:Yes, there is, indeed .

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chestnut fieldFor pants, there is a model with a "518" part number that is made of duck instead of corduroy, and for jackets, piqué, cutlery, and satin are often seen, but duck is quite rare.

section (of an orange, etc.)Is it still something that doesn't appear?

Fujiwara:. In fact, I only recall a total of 4 or 5 pieces of clothing that have come out so far, including the one I gave to Mr. Konno.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think it's the same age , but it's slightly shorter than the "70505 E".

Fujiwara:Probably the material clogs up in the dryer or something.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Oh, I see , I see.

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chestnut fieldAnd (pointing to the stitching on the inside flap pocket edge) there are also two stitches here, so it must be a model more similar to the "557" than the "70505 E". . as one of the factors for the shorter length.

section (of an orange, etc.)Heh, I see. Isn't there two "70505 E's"?

chestnut fieldIt's replacing one navy blue stitch, and the cankles are replacing the yellow to navy blue as well.

section (of an orange, etc.). yes, that's right. I used to identify it by the patch. The larger patches are "557" and the smaller ones are "70505". Well, of course there are some irregularities.

Fujiwara:But, generally speaking, that method of identification is not wrong. However, if the patch is completely missing and not even a trace of sewing remains, it can be identified by the stitching on the back of the pocket.

section (of an orange, etc.)I see.

Konno's Pick up_02

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3rd TYPE MOUTON JACKET

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The second one to follow is the third type mouton jacket, which was previously introduced in the same project. As Kuri-kun (Kurihara) told me at the time, it was an official jacket for the 1980 Olympics held in the U.S., and there were only a few of them. And the sizes seem to vary as well. The one I have is labeled "L," but it is actually about the size of a S. I found a M at "Berber Gin" before and when I tried it on, it was a lot bigger than my L.

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chestnut fieldNot only this unit, but even after the transition to "70505", I don't think there was actually any progress in fine-tuning, including sizing. . I guess the fashion of the time had an influence on that.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). Maybe that's true. And since the material is mouton, the shoulders tend to stand up. I just happened to find a pair that had good shoulder room.

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section (of an orange, etc.)Although it is an Olympic model , was it sold to the public?

chestnut field1980 is often confused with the Moscow Olympics, which the U.S. boycotted, but back then, unlike now, the summer and winter games were held in the same year. This mouton looks like the official one for the Winter Games held in Lake Placid, New York. . If you search on the Internet, you can find images of the athletes wearing the mouton at that time.

section (of an orange, etc.)You mean the ones that were only provided to the athletes' team or some of the staff?

chestnut fieldIf there are so few balls in the air, then perhaps that's the case.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The inside tag also says "MADE EXCLUSIVELY FOR THE USA 1980 OLYMPIC TEAM".

Fujiwara:Mr. Abe asked me how much I would sell this mouton for if it were a Berberzine. I answered, "About 128,000 yen if the size is good." Immediately after the launch of that project, there was a person who brought it in for consignment and asked, "How much would you charge? I answered, "98,000 yen," and he said, "Isn't it 128,000 yen? I replied, "98,000 yen," to which he replied, "128,000 yen, isn't it?

chestnut fieldWell, I've actually said so, so I don't blame you (laughs).

all of us(Laughter)

Konno's Pick up_03

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SLIM FIT CORDUROY JACKETS

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The third was a pair of corduroys with a boa collar labeled "SLIM FIT" that I found on a local business trip. It wasn't that expensive, but I made sure to check the market price with Yutaka when I found it (laughs).

Fujiwara:Was I right (laughs)?

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). I was simply attracted to the color. . I had seen it a few times before, but I noticed that I rarely saw it anymore.

Fujiwara:I have only seen "SLIM FIT" in thick ridges , and only in two colors, olive and brown.

chestnut fieldIn the latter half of the season, the boas are thicker, and corduroy is usually made with fine ridges, right? . Besides, this model doesn't have a waist belt, so it has a slightly designed specification, doesn't it?

section (of an orange, etc.)Is it dated around the 70's?

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Fujiwara:Yes . The "941 E" (557 piqué jacket) disappeared from the market at the same time the "SLIM FIT" line released a piqué jacket, so I think it was around the beginning of the '70s.

chestnut fieldSLIM FIT" is produced not only in the U.S. but also in Europe. But for a "SLIM FIT" brand, they are not as slim as you might say (laughs).

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)That's right (laughs).

chestnut fieldBy the way, I noticed that you always bring at least one piece of denim for this project, but this time you didn't bring one piece of denim.

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)In case you are wondering, I have "557 E" and other royal models, but I'll leave that to Yu-kun (laughs). (Laughs) Personally, I wanted something different, so I dug through the warehouse and found only patchwork models in denim. I wasn't aware of it, but I guess I'm only looking at things that aren't denim.

section (of an orange, etc.)Any particular model you're looking for right now?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). if there is a darker (color) version of the first duck I introduced. Also, I'd like to see a black one.

section (of an orange, etc.)Speaking of which, I heard that the third type corduroy that Konno is wearing today has gone up in price to an astonishing degree.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, that's right. . partly because there were only a few balls for pink. Some places were offering both for about 39,800 yen.

section (of an orange, etc.)Really! That's not good. I was under the impression that you could buy one for a few thousand yen when we were students.

. On the next page, we will introduce the third Levi's® model owned by Fujihara Yutaka.
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