A sense of trust that only history can create.

First of all, please tell us about the military culture that you yourself have been devoted to, starting from your first encounter with it.

hill countryIn terms of fashion in the 80's, it was a time of not only street and punk, as represented by magazines such as "i-D "*1 and "THE FACE "*2 in London, but also a time in which fashion, which had been considered a "thing that had already been made," was mixed with something else and made into something new. It was a time when a new culture emerged, mixing fashion with something else to create something new. It was at this time that military wear was first introduced as a fashion item. I admired the highly sensitive people of the time and wore flight jackets and other items.

*1
A leading fashion and culture magazine from London, England, i-D Japan offers styles cut from a unique perspective with a focus on youth culture in the 1980s. In April of this year, the magazine re-launched its Japanese edition, i-D Japan.

*2
An iconic cultural fashion paper that reflected the real teenagers of the 80's, the magazine sadly ceased publication in 2004.

Mr. Sakata, what models of Alpha Industries items have you worn so far?

hill countryI used to wear American-made black flight jackets that were regularly produced in the 1980s and burgundy-colored jackets that were popular at the time. Even nowadays, I often wear special-order items made by brands that I was involved in.

What kind of brand is Alpha Industries to you?

hill countryIt is not a common replica brand, but a major brand with a long history and is the most well-known. They are the first name that comes to mind when we do special orders or collaborations for military items, and they have a different sense of trust.

What was your impression when you actually tried on the new flight jacket from Alpha Industries?

hill countryOf course, I have collaborated many times in the past with brands I have been involved with, so I have always had my own image of brands and items. Flight jackets, while having a background of being supplied to the military, are now widely used on the streets as well, so I feel very comfortable with them. I have the impression that the silhouette has been modernized and updated while retaining the core details and smell of the item.

Do you have any kind of theme when you wear military items?

hill countryI had an image of flight jackets as something rebellious or for people with a certain culture. When I was young, I thought that kind of thing was cool. At first, black was the mainstream color in the London trend, but when the Shibu-Kaja*3 and vintage boom came to Tokyo and military jackets became popular, people began to pay attention to American-made, rugged vintage jackets, and olive colors became popular. So I have worn both, but the London culture of the time was a trigger for me.

*3
An evolution of the American casual style that was popular in the late 80s and 90s. It mainly refers to young people who prefer jeans such as 501®, engineer boots, and vintage clothing. Abbreviation of Shibuya casual.

I was fascinated by the atmosphere of England, not America.

What was London culture really like at the time?

hill countryThere is a group of creators called "Buffalo" based in London, and one of their stylists is Barry Cayman, who is the successor to the legendary Ray Petrie, who was also the original leader of "Buffalo". I was influenced by "Buffalo" and Ray Petri when I learned of their existence in the late 80's. I was also influenced by their fashion in the magazines. Magazines were all featuring their fashions, and if you went to clubs, there were a lot of young people who were directly influenced by them.

What exactly is the impact?

hill countryIn a recent feature on the 25th anniversary of "Buffalo" in the 2010 issue of "i-D," he developed a unique styling based on the theme of "Monarchy In The U.K.," which is a mixture of respect and irony. Flight jackets are used to great effect in this project. I think this way of dressing has naturally and unintentionally influenced my own creations and style. In terms of manufacturing, rather than trying to reproduce every detail in detail, I focus on how to express the atmosphere of the jacket.

When I hear the word "military culture," I have an image of rugged vintage American products, but what was the reason for your devotion to London culture?

hill countryI have the impression that American military goods have been distributed more directly to Japan. I have an image of the flight jacket that Tom Cruise wore with a white T-shirt and denim in the movie "Top Gun" *4. Of course, it is a very cool style, but I think it is only possible to wear it in that way because of the size and height of Americans. It would not look good if a Japanese person tried to imitate it. Of course there were many such people, but at the time, I personally thought that the London-inspired, culture-sensitive dress of the skins and punks who gathered at clubs*5 in Nishiazabu and other areas looked cooler. If America was orthodox, England was the night. I admired that atmosphere.

*4
Released in 1986, this aviation action film depicts the coming-of-age of a group of U.S. Navy fighter pilots. At the time, Tom Cruise's flight jacket became a social phenomenon.

*5
P.PICASSO" represented the early days of clubbing in Tokyo. Influenced directly by London culture, regular events under the name "London Night" were popular at the time. It was also known that many people in the fashion industry frequented the venue.

Do the outfits in this collection reflect your military background as seen from your point of view?

hill countryI think that's right. Through my styling influences, I became aware of the existence of the flight jacket as a symbol of rebelliousness, but that does not mean that I want to imitate the way they were worn, and I prefer to wear them in a more modern or natural way. I want to wear it simply, without worrying too much about the message or the military background. This is because I live in Tokyo, and I also consider my age. However, I naturally want to know the background of the culture.

Lastly, what do you think of the modern military style that you yourself have in mind?

hill countryIt was a time when military clothing with different backgrounds from the U.S. and London penetrated into Tokyo, and young people who gathered at clubs and wore these styles, choosing and choosing as they went along. Through such a time, I myself was once again influenced by the London mindset as represented by the "i-D" and "Buffalo" styles I mentioned earlier. From there, I mix it with my current age and Tokyo style, while still enjoying a natural way of dressing.