The day the gods visit Iriomote Island.
"Everyone, congratulations on the Setsubun Festival and the auspicious day of Yukui!"
The next morning, we gathered at the community center in the village, and the Setsu Festival began at the director’s signal. This was the final event of our trip.
The Setsu Festival on Iriomote Island, said to have been held for about 500 years, is a celebration of Setsu (New Year) in the Yaeyama Islands and has been designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan. It is a special day for the community, marked by prayers for a bountiful harvest and the prosperity of future generations.
"The festival is held in various villages in the area, but apparently this is the only place where you can witness the moment when a person becomes a god—that is, the moment they put on the mask. Once the mask is on, they’re not allowed to use the restroom, eat or drink, or even speak. After all, they remain a god for nearly 10 hours."
The "god" Mr. Tanaka refers to is "Lord Milik." Known as "Miliku-sama" in some regions, this deity has a white face and wears yellow robes. Coming from Niraikanai (an ideal land beyond the sea), Miliku-sama is a visiting god who brings fertility. In this village, a procession is formed with Miliku-sama at the head, passing through the village and heading toward the sea.
Following behind at a distance is the "Anger Procession." Leading the procession are two women dressed in black and draped in black cloth, known as the "Fudachimi."
"The Fudachimi can only be seen at this village's seasonal festival. While there are various theories, there are still many mysteries surrounding what it is and what it signifies."
When I made my way to a festival in another village, a deity wearing a comical mask and uttering “Oh-ho-ho” made an appearance. Said to be modeled after a Dutchman, this visiting deity tempts the people by scattering gold talismans.
"Ohhoho is really fascinating. It might be the festival's trickster. It's also interesting how the same festival varies slightly from one village to another."
While we were enjoying the festival, we received word that another crew member—who had been fine just the day before—had fallen ill.
"It might just be a coincidence, or maybe I was struck by something. 'Once you step into a world like this, things happen occasionally that can’t be explained by logic. I might be feeling a little worn out myself right now,' said Tanaka, as he happily and energetically took photos with fans who happened to be there. Just between us, he’s actually pushed back several of his booked flights just to see this festival.
I heard that on this trip, I picked up a ghost story. It was a strange tale I heard from the innkeeper.
"Stories that come out of nowhere, completely unrelated to the main plot, really give me chills. I can't go into too much detail, but it's a story about a god visiting my house, and after that, everything went smoothly. I might share it somewhere else someday, or maybe I'll keep it to myself forever. I have fifty thousand stories like that."
