HOUYHNHNM

FEATURE|With Timberland Timberland and People. Edited by Takehiko Maruyama

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With Timberland

Timberland and People. Edited by Takehiko Maruyama

Robust yet elegant. Timberland is now known as an indispensable presence in the cultural scene, including fashion and music. The latest collection is the "Vintage Collection," which updates the atmosphere of the archives from the time of the company's founding with modern functions and design. HOUYHNHNM's will focus on the relationship between Timberland and its creators, who have long been loyal users of the brand, and take a closer look at the appeal of the "Vintage Collection".

  • edit_Hiroshi Yamamoto
  • photo_Yuzo Tough
  • text_Maruro Yamashita

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Tsuyohiko Maruyama
Born in 1965. Born in Nagaoka City, Niigata Prefecture. In the past, as chief buyer for BEAMS, he created numerous hit products, and in 2007, he became independent and started his own brand "Sanka," which is now celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, focusing on Made in Japan. His high quality casual wear, which is the result of his long career and experience with a wide variety of clothing, has been highly acclaimed in many fields.

Timberland's moccasins supported the "Shibukaje" style.

Timberland is an outdoor brand founded in 1973, but as you can see from the past installments of this Series, the brand has deep ties to culture, such as music, in Japan today. What is the image of "Timberland" for you?

mountain rangeI think it was around 1989 or so, when "Shibukaje" fashion was at its peak, and Timberland moccasins were really popular. I think it was 1989 or so, when "Shibu-Kaje" fashion was at its peak, and Timberland moccasins were really popular. Even high school students were wearing them in droves. Everyone was wearing navy blue blazers and moccasins.

So there was a time like that! Were you wearing Timberland moccasins back then, too?

mountain rangeI was already working at Beams at that time, selling moccasins.

What year did you join BEAMS, Mr. Maruyama?

mountain rangeIt was 1985. BEAMS was founded in 1976, so the year after I joined was exactly the 10th anniversary. I started at a men's casual store in Harajuku, which still exists today. At the time, it was a small store with a floor space of about 3.5 square meters. At the time, Harajuku only had this men's casual store, BEAMS F, International Gallery BEAMS, and Ray BEAMS, which had just opened. There was also a casual store and a heavy clothing store called "Clothing Salon" in Shibuya, and only one or two stores in the provinces.

I see. Did you become aware of the "Timberland" brand when you joined BEAMS?

mountain rangeI knew the brand itself. But it was a little while after I started working at BEAMS that I actually came into contact with the brand.

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The base of American casual wear has remained the same for decades.

Please tell us about your favorite Timberland products. Are there any models that stand out in your memory?

mountain rangeI bought these "6" Boots 14 or 5 years ago, in yellow nubuck. The model with a monogram pattern in Gore-Tex® at the footwear opening. I love wearing them. I bought it when I was still working at Beams at the time.

Has Mr. Maruyama's fashion style changed since then?

mountain rangeI haven't changed in the past few years, but before that, I used to change rather often, though not unexpectedly. I bought "6" Boot" when I was buying for BEAMS, and I was wearing "Evis Jeans" at that time. When I was at BEAMS, I saw and handled a variety of brands for my job, and of course I did my own original work. Of course, the brands in season also change with the seasons.

Basically, my base is American casual, but there have been some changes, such as wearing 501® denim but wearing designer jackets. On the other hand, now that Sanka has been running for 10 years, I have a clear idea of the kind of clothes I want to make, and I am more interested in pursuing my creations than in keeping an eye on various things, so my style has not changed much.

You mentioned earlier that your fashion base is American casual, but how did you get interested in fashion in the first place?

mountain rangeI think it is the magazine "POPEYE". I have been reading "POPEYE" since I was in junior high school, so it had a big influence on me. I was a little younger than "Made in USA Catalog," so it was "POPEYE" for me. There was also "Men's Club", which I also read, but "POPEYE" was a little different from that, as it focused more on culture. It wasn't just about fashion. So it was interesting, and I think it had a strong influence on me. So the base of American casual fashion has not changed over the decades.

How do you feel the "1978 Hiker" fits your current style?

mountain rangeMy first impression when I tried them on was that they are lighter and easier to wear than they look. I don't like very slender shoes, but I like very sturdy ones, so they fit me well.

Is there a reason why you like rugged shoes?

mountain rangeI don't wear very thick pants. I feel that thick pants don't suit my body type. I tend to wear rather thin pants, so thin pants and slender shoes are not well-balanced.

It's only about a sense of balance.

mountain rangeYes, I agree. But I think these boots look great as stand-alone boots as well. I'm curious.

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The upper is made of LWG Silver Tannery's high-quality waterproof leather, a classic reissue of the hiking boots released in 1978, and a pair that is fresh and new today. 1978 Hiker" ¥35,000+tax

Timberland / VF Japan K.K.
Phone: 0120-953-844
www.timberland.co.jp

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