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FEATURE| How to arrange a trad wardrobe. Lecturer: Kazuo Hozumi

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STYLE OF TRADITIONAL.

How to arrange a traditional wardrobe. Lecturer: Kazuo Hozumi

Trad style, as the name suggests, is "traditional style. Its appeal is timeless and ageless, an eternal style that will never fade away. In other words, it is the "key to the basics" of fashion. This project invites experts as lecturers to teach us the basics of fashion as well as the traditional wardrobe necessary for the current season. The first lecturer is Mr. Ivy, illustrator Kazuo Hozumi. He is a legend who has supported men's fashion since the dawn of the Ivy League. The items to be introduced are all familiar staples, but the more one learns about them, the deeper they become. We hope you will enjoy the world of the traditional wardrobe.

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Kazuo Hozumi
Born in Tokyo in 1930. A pioneer of fashion illustration in Japan and a leading authority on Ivy fashion since its early days, his "Picture Book Ivy Boy's Illustrated Book" (Kodansha), published in 1980, is a well-known book loved by many fans of Ivy and traditional fashion. His recent books include "Picture Book Ivy Zukan" (Banraisha) and the legendary bible "Kareka or Karewareka" (Soshisha Bunko), published in 1964, which has been reprinted.

What is a B.D. shirt?

The Oxford B.D. shirt is the Ivy's first and most basic item. It works as expected for any occasion. Whether on campus, in the office, at weddings or funerals, it promises to be a great choice for all occasions.

Ninety percent of my shirts are B.D. shirts.

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Why do B.D. shirts need to be a part of your traditional wardrobe?

pusher (in a mine)Originally, shirts were underwear. It was necessary for any kind of dressing. It came to be worn without a jacket and used for formal wear, but the B.D. shirt was worn without a jacket as a casual item. It's not formal. But there is a technique to wear it when wearing a tuxedo, like Frank Sinatra, but it is a technique that is possible because it is based on a solid foundation. In the 1960s, Princeton University, an Ivy League school, declared in its freshman dress guide that the "essential shirt" was the B.D. shirt. Ninety percent of my shirts are B.D. shirts.

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What are the key points to consider when choosing a B.D. shirt?

pusher (in a mine)Orthodox, that's the only word that comes to mind. When the Ivy was first introduced to Japan, we saw B.D. shirts with pointed collars and collar buttons in odd positions. Preferably with buttons on the back of the collar and loops on the yoke. The fabric should be cotton, and although a large count broadcloth is fine, oxford is the basic fabric. The collar should roll beautifully when the tie is tied. Collars that are too small or too large will not be chosen in the Ivy and traditional world. Silhouettes that are too tight are also not the main line of business.

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Please tell me how to wear B.D. shirts.

pusher (in a mine)Short-sleeved versions also exist in the world, but B.D. shirts should be long-sleeved, because you can roll them up when you get hot. The B.D. shirt is an outer garment, not an undergarment, so you can wear it like a T-shirt. If you are going to wear something over it, it would be a summer sweater for the coming season. Many Ivy Leaguer U.S. presidents did not wear B.D. shirts while in office. It is essentially a symbol of the Establishment, so you couldn't wear it as a representative of the people. It is very sporty, yet Establishment, and it would be good if you are aware of both sides of it as the base of your dressing.

TRAD STYLE OF B.D.SHIRT

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When it is still a little chilly, it is a good idea to wear a cotton knit over an Oxford B.D. shirt. It is a sporty combination, but the collar of the shirt peeking out from around the neck gives a decent impression. The colors are a fresh white and blue with a spring-like feel. White jeans are ankle-length, and tassel loafers are worn with bare feet.

Left: [Individuallized shirt] Regatta OX B.D. shirt (white and blue), Cambridge OX B.D. shirt (pink) ¥24,000+TAX (all Maiden Company 03-5410-9777) / Right: [Individuallized shirt] B.D. shirt ¥24,000+TAX, [Andersen-Andersen] cotton knit ¥42,000+TAX, [Leatherman] belt ¥42,000+TAX Shirt ¥24,000+TAX, [Andersen-Andersen] Cotton Knit ¥42,000+TAX 〈Leatherman〉Belt ¥7,400(All Maiden Company 03-5410-9777), [Levi's ®️] 501 White Denim ¥11 Alden cordovan tassel loafers ¥124,000 (Lakota House 03-5778-2010), L.L.Bean boat and tote ¥6,900 (L.L.Bean) Customer Service Center 0422-79-9131)

What are chinos pants?

The answer to the question, "What bottoms are most associated with the Ivy League?" Until the 1970s, no Ivy League student wore denim. It was forbidden. So the choice of chinos as a sporty, active bottom was inevitable.

They are easy to wear and easy to move in. Chinos are reasonable bottoms.

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Why are chinos necessary in a traditional wardrobe?

pusher (in a mine)Chino pants are sometimes pressed. When the Ivy was popular in Japan, cotton pants with a clear press line were commonplace in stores. So I didn't think it was strange to iron shirts, cotton pants, and jeans. After preppy came out, suddenly there was a widespread perception that it was not something to be pressed. They are pants with two faces: pressed, they are semi-formal with blazer wear, and unwashed, they are sporty, rough, and casual. They are useful for a variety of occasions. They are an indispensable piece of clothing for your wardrobe.

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What are some points to consider when choosing chinos?

pusher (in a mine)Don't make it too thin. Half a century ago, when we came up with our own Ivy rules, there was a section that said, "The silhouette must be piped stem. But inwardly we were like, "Isn't that too thick?" I was skeptical. When I flipped through the "Take IVy" photo book, I found that there were few piped stems in the book. Rather, many of them are slim. But the basis of chinos is a piped stem. The silhouette is straight and straight like a pipe. The color is beige rather than olive. The range of application is overwhelmingly wide. Ivy is rational. Easy to wear, easy to move in, chinos are the rational bottoms. Hip pockets with or without buttons, it's your choice.

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Please tell me how to wear chinos.

pusher (in a mine)The hem is folded back. It may be double cuffed from the beginning, or rolled up like jeans. Because they are made of cotton, the length will become shorter as they are worn in and washed. The pants in the "Take IVy" photo book were short because of repeated washing. I misunderstood that and made all the pants in "Miyuki Tribe" shorter. Chinos pants that were initially worn folded over were eventually worn straight. Such enjoyment is another characteristic of chinos. Nowadays, the times are slim and tight, but denim and chinos are not made thin, and that is traditional.

TRAD STYLE OF CHINO PANTS

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These orthodox chinos with just the right amount of room are a versatile item that can tolerate any top. They can be worn with jackets as well as casual attire without difficulty. The Dartmouth College student who appears in "Take IVy" wears an olive green anorak, a striped basque shirt, and a yellow B.D. shirt in a rough, layered look. On the feet, desert boots are worn campus style.

Left: [Barry BRICKen] DAVID¥26,000+TAX(, Beams Plus Harajuku 03-3746-5851) / Right: [Barry BRICKen] Chino pants¥26,000+TAX (Beams Plus Harajuku 03-3746-5851), [Battenwear Anorak ¥34,000+TAX (Ships Shibuya 03-3496-0481), [Ocival] Basque shirt ¥8,800+TAX (Main 03-3264-3738), [BEAMS PLUS] OX B.D. shirt ¥10,000+TAX (BEAMS PLUS Harajuku) Clarks Originals] Desert boots ¥35,000+TAX (Clarks Japan 03-4510-2009), [J&M Davidson] Mesh belt ¥35,000 (J&M Davidson Aoyama store 03-6427-1810), [Brady shoulder bag ¥30,000+tax (Septiz 03-5481-8651)

What is a sweatshirt?

Although the name "sweatshirt" = Japanese English was commonly used in the early days of the Ivy League, it is officially a sweatshirt. The material is heavyweight 100% cotton or mixed spinning with nylon, and many of them have university names or marks printed on the front or back.

Sweatshirts are a typical student-like item.

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Why do sweatshirts need to be a part of a traditional wardrobe?

pusher (in a mine)Sweatshirts are essentially warm-up wear, as can be understood from their origins. Because they are more casual than cotton sweaters, they can also be used for street wear. The most important advantage of sweatshirts is that they become more durable with repeated laundering. I am skinny, so I don't wear T-shirts even in summer. For the same reason, I don't wear short sleeves either. Sweatshirts are useful in such cases. I wear it without anything as an inner layer, in other words, I wear it like a T-shirt without a shirt. Of course, it can also be worn as outerwear, like a sweater. It is a convenient garment that works in any season, so even if you are not an athlete, it is essential for your wardrobe.

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What are some tips for choosing a sweatshirt?

pusher (in a mine)I love sweatshirts. The comfort of 100% cotton is exceptional. As for prints, it's a personal preference, but since it's a sports-derived garment, it's easy to tell when it's associated with that. Plain colors are also good. Among the most useful are marbled sweatshirts called salt and pepper. A hooded parka is also a good choice, although the explanation for a sweatshirt is "a crew-neck, merino shirt with a brushed back finish. It used to be called a hooded sweatshirt. It is accented with muff pockets and a drawcord. It can be a zip-up or a pullover, but you may prefer to have a zipper for ease of use. This, too, is a preference.

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How do I wear a sweatshirt?

pusher (in a mine)My favorite way to wear it is with a red gingham check B.D. shirt inside a marbled sweatshirt. I don't think you should wear this thinking that it will look cool. Ivy is the everyday wear of Ivy League students. They wear jackets and ties to Sunday services, but other than that they wear nothing but items. Sweatshirts are a prime example of a student-like item. Other than marbling, school colors are the basic colors. On days when you might want to wear a cotton sweater, choose a sweatshirt. Bottoms can be jeans and chinos. Low-tech sneakers on your feet are a good choice. When it gets hot, you can take it off and hang it over your shoulders or around your waist, which is also a fun way to wear it.

TRAD STYLE OF CHINO PANTS

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You can wear the sweatshirt as it is, but for an academic look, you can also wear a B.D. shirt as an inner layer. For example, a gingham check B.D. shirt worn under a gray sweatshirt will give you a more preppy look. In this case, sneakers are the legitimate footwear, but loafers will also work. The lobster embroidery on the cap and belt also adds a nice accent.

Left:〈Champion〉Reverse Weave Hoodie ¥11,000 Crew Neck ¥10,000 (Champion Harajuku Store 03-5468-8451) / Right:〈Champion〉Sweat Shirt ¥10,000 + TAX (Champion Harajuku Store 03-5468-8451) Right: [INDIVIDUALIZED SHIRT] gingham B.D. shirt ¥25,000+TAX (Maiden Company), [EG Workaday] fatigues pants ¥26,000+TAX (Engineered Garments 03-6419-1798), [G.H. Bass x Cassidy x Septiz penny loafers ¥27,000+TAX (Septiz), FortySeven cap ¥3,500+TAX (OSM International 03-6721-0589), L.L. Bean belt ¥7,900+TAX (L.L. Bean Customer Service Center), belt ¥7,900+TAX (L.L. Bean Customer Service Center), belt ¥7,900+TAX (L.L. Bean) Bean Customer Service Center)

What is Blouson?

This blouson is based on "G9" by "Barracouta" and "Drizzler" by "MacGregor," both of which are still in circulation under the Japanese English term "swing top. It features a large collar called a dog ear collar. It can be worn when playing golf, but it is also a convenient piece for the changing seasons in spring and fall.

Trad wardrobe warm clothes that protect you from the wind and rain.

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Why is a blouson necessary in a traditional wardrobe?

pusher (in a mine)It is a very convenient item. As you can see from the fact that it is also called a windbreaker, you can wear it over short sleeves and zip it up to protect your body even in bad weather. This is why it is useful as golf wear. A little rain is manageable. Even if it is made of cotton, it can be used for a long period of time as long as it is not in the middle of winter, which is another important reason why it is indispensable in your wardrobe. Even if it is a blouson in a loud color, you won't look back. Nylon-coated, madras-check hooded blousons were all the rage in the early days of the Ivy. You want one as the loudest garment in your wardrobe.

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What are the key points to consider when choosing a blouson?

pusher (in a mine)The basic features are raglan sleeves, front zip, elastic shirring at the hem, and a large collar called a dog ear collar. This is the key to choosing. If you ask me, my preference would be a little longer. I don't want it too tight, considering that it will be zipped up. The material can be cotton or nylon. There's a word for varsity, which means representative, and a matching blouson for a sports club is fun to wear with your friends, like a blazer. It's not pretentious wear, it's award-worthy sportswear. If blazers are loafers, blousons are sneakers. Comfort is what we believe in.

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Please tell me how to wear blouson.

pusher (in a mine)There's also the James Dean pretense of driving clothes. Steve McQueen and Ken Takakura also used to wear "G9". Like Ken Takakura, they would wear it with the dog ear collar snugly and snugly closed to the top. The purpose is to prevent wind from entering, but you can make it look masculine, just like turning up the collar of a coat. You can zip it up, or you can let it flutter without stopping it at all. The innerwear is a B.D. shirt or a polo shirt. I have a bright red swing top, but I like it more "casual" than a sports jacket. The items I mentioned are all sportswear. The traditional type is all the standard. It's a low-profile clothing and fashion is traditional. It's not a "must-have" outfit. There is no "must" anymore (laughs).

TRAD STYLE OF SWEAT SHIRT

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Short blousons with a strong active look go well with sporty looks. Basic colors are good, but you can go all out and choose flashy colors with blousons. The inner polo shirt and canvas sneakers are pure white for a sporty yet clean look. The manner of traditional style is to unify red, white, beige, and narrow down the overall number of colors.

Left: [Barracouta] G9 ¥46,000+TAX each (Supremes Inc. 03-3583-3151) / Right: [Barracouta] G9 ¥46,000+TAX (Supremes Inc. 03-3583-3151), [eye COMME des GARSON JUNYA WATANABE MAN 》×LACOSTE Polo shirt ¥44,000+TAX (COMME des GARÇONS 03-3486-7611), [Lee] Westerner 201 ¥7,300+TAX (Septiz), [Converse] All Star High ¥5,800+TAX (Converse Information Center 0120-819-217), (Ivan 7285) sunglasses 760 ¥48,000+TAX (Ivan 7285 Tokyo 03-3409-7285), (Camco) ring belt ¥4,500+TAX (Main) bandana Personal effects

What is trad style?

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In the words of Beau Brummel, the founder of the dandy movement, "If someone looks back at the way you dress, you are not dressed the way you should be. Even if you wear a bright red blouson, trad won't be looked back on. It is fashion that has nothing to do with trends, and that is why it continues to be loved.


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