HOUYHNHNM

FEATURE|NEXUSVII. 15th ANNIVERSARY
The 15th anniversary of NEXUSⅦ. A passionate talk session that takes us behind the scenes of the gems of collaboration CASE2_Rocky Mountain Featherbed

nexus7_rocky_mountain_Brand_1200_675_

NEXUSVII. 15th ANNIVERSARY COLLABORATION

The 15th anniversary of NEXUSⅦ. A passionate talk session that takes us behind the scenes of the gems of collaboration CASE2_Rocky Mountain Featherbed

As previously reported in HOUYHNHNM's, "NEXUSVII.", which celebrated its 15th anniversary in 2016, has been creating various anniversary items this season. In this feature, we asked Tomohiro Konno, the designer of "NEXUSVII." and the creators of each item to reveal the background of their creation. This time, we take a closer look at the creation process with "Rocky Mountain Featherbed," famous for its iconic down vests with leather yokes.

  • Photo_Erina Fujiwara
  • Edit_Ryo Komuta

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Thank you for gathering here today. As NEXUSⅦ. celebrates 15 years since its establishment, we have been working with various brands, and we would like to ask you about the background of the brand's creation.

temple supervisor. You've been doing this for 15 years already. I first met Konno-kun when I was having a drink with Yamada of (Berberzine) and we decided to invite him over. But it was my wife who originally introduced me to " NEXUS VII.

Kinji Teramoto, President of "Thirty Five Summers

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, I think so.

temple supervisorMy wife visited the "NEXUS VII." exhibition and ordered one for our son, and I saw it arrive at our house. I saw it delivered to my house, and I thought it was an interesting product. That was about two years ago. But this is the first time we've talked like this.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Yes, that's right. I usually usually have gasoline in my tank (laughs).

temple supervisor. yes, that's right (laughs). But if you let your guard down, you'll soon be talking about that kind of thing, so please keep going.

Front left: Atsushi Nobuoka, PR of "Thirty Five Summers", Tomohiro Konno, designer of "NEXUSⅦ", front right: Wataru Aoki, designer of "Itadaki".

Yes (laughs). Now, Mr. Konno, would you please explain the process of how this product was created?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). First of all, as I mentioned earlier, I got to know Kinji-san through Mr. Yamada of Berberzin, and then I also had a connection with his wife, so it was like the dots were connected. I feel like I connected with Mr. Nobuoka through another point of contact. I guess it was also through the vintage clothing store route. Also, Nobuoka-san came to my friend's place where we were having a drink. I got to know him a little before Kinji-san.

inside and outside daimyo's mansion. Yes, that's right. We've met a few times, but that was also when we were drinking (laughs).

What was the direct impetus for this collaboration?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): When it comes to the trigger, HOUYHNHNM also wrote an article about it,The Third Edition Invitational Designer SeriesThat was the beginning of the project. Since it was fall and winter, I wanted to make a down vest, so I approached Rocky Mountain Featherbed this time.

temple supervisor. it's good, isn't it?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). Thank you very much. I think there have been many down vests made of leather, so I decided to do this project because I wanted to do something that only I could do.

temple supervisorHow much does this cost?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). 260,000 yen.

temple supervisor: Yeah, but it's still a good hang.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)We asked Mr. Aoki of "iTADAKi" to help us with the leather part, which plays an important role in the Tsura aspect.

temple supervisor: You're not a leather shop, are you?

Aucuba japonicaYes. I run a bag brand called "Itadaki.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): With the background I have, I can't use this Perringer leather.

temple supervisor. this leather is nice , very nice.

Have you ever provided only leather like you did this time?

Aucuba japonica. not often only leather. Basically, I often work with products. Originally, Mr. Konno had been buying and using Itadaki's products. We also had a little business relationship.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Yes, that's right. Itadaki" has a small wallet that is very user-friendly. That was the first time we made a special order for it. However, NEXUSⅦ. was also working with Yoshida Kaban, so I contacted the person in charge at Yoshida Kaban and said, "We would like to work with a domestic company in the same industry," and he readily agreed. So, we started working with them from the season before this one.

Aucuba japonica. And then there was the fact that I happened to live in Mr. Konno's hometown.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). For some reason, when I hear the word "Chiba," I want to surround myself with it (laughs).

Do you remember when you first came in contact with the "Rocky Mountain Featherbed" brand?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). at first, it was a vintage clothing store called "Garage Sale," and my seniors were collecting them. . It was still cheap at that time, about 10,000 yen, I think.

temple supervisor: It really is, isn't it? It was cheap.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). the leather yoke had a great presence when it was hanging on the rack. Everyone was looking for them with bloodshot eyes. . But I have the impression that what you are doing now, Kinji-san, is like a reprint, but not a reprint.

temple supervisor. in our case, we bought the brand. I had them search all over the U.S., using patent attorneys and lawyers, to find out who had the rights. And one real estate agent had the rights. I think the founder, Cub Schaeffer, sold it to someone he knew. There is a brand called "Schaeffer Outfitters," but it has the same last name.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). know, Schaeffer's Outfitters. I own a pair of raw-colored coveralls.

temple supervisor. yes, yes. So I had the Schaeffer Outfitters, but I guess I sold the Rocky Mountain Featherbed. . It was very hard to find. To be honest, the money I spent on patent attorneys and lawyers was more expensive than the money I spent on the rights (laughs). (Laughs.) They, too, measure their time by the time they spend working on it.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). and it's in America.

temple supervisor. We have been working on it behind the scenes since 2002 or so. So, what we are doing now is more like a renewal than a reissue.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). in the same genealogy, you mean.

temple supervisorYes, that's right. Big Yank is licensed, so it's a little different.

When did "Thirty Five Summers" become a brand holder?

temple supervisor. 2005, so it's been 11 years. . It has been a difficult time in Japan, too. They said, "You can't use the name of a famous mountain range, Rocky Mountain," and so on. But somehow or other, we were lucky enough to get the trademark. The first thing that made me fall in love with it was the same as Konno, when I saw it at a vintage clothing store. I was from a different generation, but there was a time when they sold them for about 7,800 yen. And this is the first one I bought.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): The collar is mouton , so it's a western button. When did you buy this one?

temple supervisor. this was when I was about 20 years old. I'm 52 now, so that's more than 30 years ago . I wear it with care.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I heard that Mr. Suzuki of "Loop Wheeler" also bought one back then and still wears it with great care.

temple supervisor. I think Mr. Suzuki bought his at a place like "~~Sports" in Ochanomizu, Tokyo. Mine were already old clothes.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). I believe you said you bought it brand new. Mr. Suzuki is 57 years old now, so he is five years older than Kinji.

Teramoto-san, did you decide to collect anyway after that?

temple supervisor. Yes, that's right. There was a secondhand clothing shop called "Parabion" on Killer Street in Aoyama , I wonder if you know it, Konno? It was run by a man named Yamase-san, who is now a major figure in the vintage clothing industry. He originally immigrated to the U.S. in the late 1960s and was one of the pioneers of the early days of vintage clothing stores. At that time, I was working at the Tokyo store of a store called "Harriss" in Paris. Harriss was related to HEMISPHERES, which was started by my partner Pierre Fournier. I think it was in the early 80's when Emmisphères was selling Rocky Mountain Featherbeds. So, Pierre is quite a connoisseur. . That's a parallel story, though.

. very interesting.

temple supervisorAnyway, the first one I bought was this one, and the next one was a women's Christie in a saxe-blue color that would look good on a white guy, which my wife wore. . In the meantime, I met a guy who worked for FedEx. . and he was a fisherman. Do you know this book?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): No , I didn't know that.

temple supervisorThe author of these books, Ashizawa-san, has an older brother. He told me that he had a lot of "Rocky Mountain Featherbeds," so I went to talk to him and asked him to share some with me. So I went to talk to him and he gave me some.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)(Laughs): You mean you bowed down properly when you said you were given a share, didn't you? (Laughter)

temple supervisorOf course (laughs). I had a lot of respect for him. This is a great book. . Since that time, Marmot and others have been coming out.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): When was this book written? It says that the first edition was published in 1976 , so 40 years ago?

temple supervisor. you should look for a book like this. . They are hard to find, though. You can learn a lot from books like "Backpacking" and "Hitchhiking. That's how I got hooked on the Rocky Mountain Featherbed.

I see.

temple supervisor: It took a long time for the brand to hold on to the actual name reissue, or rather, to hold on to the brand. . in the end, it's like the leather yoke icon got it done. Oh, yes, this is a poster from 1974. In Paris, Pierre started a store called "Globe," which later became "Emisfair. I think "Globe" was the predecessor of the so-called "select store.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). and Levi's, The North Face at the time, and many others.

temple supervisor: Yes, yes. We had a lot of fun suggesting those selections.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)By the way, where are you from, Kinji?

temple supervisor. I'm Kobe, but I'm what you call a "Mr. Bond" type.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)What do you mean by "Mr. Bond" type?

temple supervisor. there's a trad store like that. . I grew up there, but when I got tired of that kind of stuff, I went to secondhand clothes. I would go to Osaka and buy all kinds of things.

More details on the collaborated down vests are on the next page.
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