vol.3 What's happening to vintage sneakers now?

Sneaker Journal

vol.3 What's happening to vintage sneakers now?

Sneaker Journal" is a serialized project that takes up various events related to sneakers and delves into them from a fuinamic point of view. The theme of this issue is "Vintage Sneakers. Sneakers were originally developed as sports shoes to support athletic footwear, but some rare old sneakers are treated like antiques, and many of them are sold at high prices, with some even fetching premiums. What is the value of sneakers in the vintage market now? We asked Mr. Katsushige Kamamoto, the representative of "SKIT," a Kichijoji-based sneaker store that boasts one of the best selections of vintage and other premium sneakers in Japan, about the current state of the vintage sneaker market.

  • Phoo_Kazumasa Takeuchi(STUH)
  • Interview & Text_Issey Enomoto
  • Edit_Hiroshi Yamamoto
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Katsushige Kamamoto

Born in 1978, he opened the sneaker store "SKIT" in Kichijoji in 2001. With a wide selection of sneakers ranging from rare to bargain priced, SKIT has attracted attention from sneaker freaks both in Japan and abroad. Currently, in addition to Kichijoji, there are four other stores in Osaka, Sendai, and Fukuoka.

Now is the time to buy! Vintage sneaker prices are on the decline.

First of all, please tell us about the recent market price of vintage sneakers in the market. Has it become more expensive than before? Or has it become cheaper?

gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides): Overall, I think there is a downward trend. For example, this blue and black original of the Air Jordan 1.

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gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides)The price used to be 100,000 yen or more, but now it is around 50,000 yen.

Next, here is a basketball shoe called "Airship" released in 1984.

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gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides)The price is about 30,000 yen, though this is a rare color that was worn by a Boston Celtics player and only a few pairs exist in the world.

And here is Nike's Mieka, a Japanese-made running shoe from the 1970s.

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gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides)The price was about 70,000 to 80,000 yen at its peak, but now it is about 25,000 yen.

It's true that the market price of vintage sneakers has dropped a lot compared to what it used to be. What determines the market price of such vintage sneakers?

gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides)In the past, each store set or raised its own prices according to its own judgment. This is why prices varied from store to store. During the "Air Max 95" boom in the past, some stores charged 150,000 yen while others charged 300,000 yen.

In those days, sneaker fans had a lot of fun trying to get the same pair of sneakers at a lower price.

gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides): Yes, that's right. Since the advent of Yahoo! Auctions and eBay, the prices of vintage sneakers on online auctions have had a significant impact on the market. Furthermore, since around 2010, the spread of smartphones has made it easier for anyone to conduct online auctions, which until then could only be done with a computer and a digital camera, and this has further strengthened its influence on the market. This trend continues to this day.

When you price "SKIT," do you consider online auctions and overseas markets?

gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides)No, we price our items based on our own sense of what is best for our customers. For example, a pair of Jordans might sell for more on eBay than in a store, but we want them to reach the people who really want them, rather than raising the price unnecessarily.

For those who really like vintage sneakers and really want to get their hands on them, now is a good time for them, as prices have come down and they are easier to find, in a sense.

gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides): Yeah, I guess you're right.

Vintage sneakers are ephemeral. Those that can't be worn have zero value.

When it comes to sneakers, problems such as aging and hydrolysis are inevitable. Is there any value in a broken sneaker?

gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides): It may have some material value, but if it is no longer wearable, it has zero value as an object to be bought or sold. For example, this is an original "Air Max 95" from 1995. ......

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gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides): The air has been damaged by age and has zero value as vintage. It was once priced at 300,000 yen during the boom.

Also, this "Air Presto" is also original and new at the time, and looks beautiful, but ......, the outsole is broken, so it has zero value.

What exactly do you mean by "vintage" in the sneaker industry? From my generation's point of view, I think it would be something from the 1970s to the 1980s.

gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides)However, depending on how you look at it, even items from the 1990s to the 2000s are considered vintage, and even some items from the 2000s can break down due to age-related deterioration and hydrolysis.

Sneakers are ephemeral when you think about it.

gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides)By the way, have you ever heard of "swapping"? Swap" is a technique to revitalize old sneakers by attaching new soles to the uppers.

Is this also a new way to enjoy vintage?

gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides): Hmmm, I don't know. Personally, I don't think it's a good idea. In Japan, a long time ago, there was a custom trend of putting Louis Vuitton monograms on the swoosh of Air Force 1s, which is a customization in the best sense, but in the worst sense, it is a fake. I think swapping is no different.

For Vintage Lovers, Is Reissue a Good Thing? No?

What do you think about the situation of the reissue of vintage sneakers?

gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides)I think: there are both good and bad sides to this. For example, the Nike "Outbreak" model.

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gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides): This was the original, released around 1987, and was very popular, especially among people who like vintage clothing, and was traded at a high price of around 30,000 yen. Then it was reissued in 2007, but it did not gain much popularity and became a throwaway. At the same time, the price of the vintage one crashed, too. Looking at the situation, I wonder if it would have been more valuable not to reissue the vintage.

As a fan, I am genuinely happy when my favorite models are reissued.

gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides)However, it is also a double-edged sword for a brand to reissue a product, as there are many cases where a product is reissued in anticipation of a strong demand for reissue, but when the product is released to the market, it does not sell as well as it could have.

A prime example is Ewing.

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gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides)However, when it was reissued, it was not so popular and its value in the vintage market declined.

Also, something like Nike's "Air Shake Indestructo," released in 1997, is a model with many deep-rooted fans and is rumored to be reissued in the near future. ......

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gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides): It is honestly unknown how well it would sell if it were actually reprinted.

Also, I know many fans are eagerly awaiting the reissue of ACG's classic "Air Marda," .......

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gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides): This too may or may not be acceptable in today's market.

Where is the vintage sneaker scene headed in the future?

Lastly, what direction do you think the vintage sneaker scene will take in the future?

gooseneck loosestrife (species of flowering plant, Lysimachia clethroides)I think the market will shrink. The values of sneakers are completely different depending on the generation. The generation in their 30s and 40s, including us, are very particular about things and try to understand the background and the depth of their knowledge, while the younger generation in their teens and 20s are not so particular. They buy things because they are popular or trendy, and when they get tired of them, they sell them on Mercari or Instagram. I think we live in an age of "broad and shallow.

Some people buy sneakers not because they really like them and want to wear them, but because they want to show them off on social media or get "likes. Frankly speaking, I think it's a bad idea. You should think more carefully and spend your money.

Even when these young people reach their 30s and 40s, the major trend will remain the same. As a store, we would like to let this generation know more about the fun of sneakers. Sneakers are definitely more fun if you have a deep knowledge of them.

Sneaker store SKIT Kichijoji, Tokyo
D-ASSET Kichijoji 1F, 1-18-1 Kichijoji Minami-cho, Musashino-shi, Tokyo
0422-47-6671
www.k-skit.com
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