The Man Who Lives to Feast. The Blind Donkey Shinichiro Harakawa</trp-post-container

The interview of FOOD people

People who live for the feast. The Blind Donkey Shinichiro Harakawa

Japan is one of the world's leading food nations. People's interest is always high, and new restaurants are opening one after another. So what kind of people are supporting the food industry today? In this article, we focus on those who have style. It is true that some people think that simply tasting a delicious meal is enough, but just as with movies or music, knowing the thoughts behind the meal and the story of the person who made it will make it more complex, more enjoyable, and more flavorful. The first installment of this series features Shinichiro Harakawa of "The Blind Donkey" in Kanda, Japan. He opened the restaurant in 2017 with Jerome, the longtime head chef at Chez Panisse, an organic restaurant in Berkeley that is said to have revolutionized American food culture. What kind of path did Mr. Harakawa, who runs the restaurant on a daily basis in Kanda, an area that is not considered a hot area for popular restaurants, take and how did he develop his independent spirit? We will share with you the backstory behind the food.

  • Illustration_Michiko Otsuka
  • Edit_Shinri Kobayashi
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Shinichiro Harakawa / Chef, The Blind Donkey

Born in Shizuoka Prefecture. After training at a restaurant in Shibuya, he went to France. After returning to Japan, he worked at restaurants such as "guisu" in Sangenjaya, and opened the restaurant "BEARD" in Meguro in 2012, which became a hot topic. 2017, together with Jerome Wague, former executive chef of Alice Waters' "Chez Panisse" in Berkeley, he opened a restaurant in Kanda, Tokyo He opened the restaurant "The Blind Donkey" in Kanda, Tokyo.

The greatness of Chez Panisse is not only in taste.

I was struck by Alice Waters' "Chez Panisse" not because she was an early advocate of organic and local production for local consumption. I was surprised by the way they worked and the style in which they wanted to enjoy themselves. In all the restaurants I had worked at before that, I had always been told, "Finish faster," "Serve more beautifully," "Make the food faster," "Make it more beautiful! I was surprised at the way they worked and their style of working, which was to enjoy themselves! I was always under pressure to make it faster and serve it more beautifully. On the other hand, the staff at "Chez Panisse" was like, "Hello, what shall we do today?

Here, for the first time, I discovered that cooking can be done while having fun. And when I actually tried the food, it was extremely tasty. After that, I finally learned about organic and local production for local consumption.

The same is true of The Blind Donkey, which I run with Jerome. First of all, we serve food based on safe and tasty ingredients. We consider the earth, which produces delicious ingredients, as a garden, and hope to educate people about respect for nature and environmental awareness without any pressure. These things are difficult to do when you have the backing of big capital. Therefore, Jerome and I must be independent and work together to overcome difficulties. This is a common understanding between the two of us.

From junior high school and high school to Canada and Japan. When I was dull.

This kind of independent spirit may be due to the environment in which I was raised. I grew up in Shizuoka, and spent six years from junior high school to high school in a Catholic boarding school. I had a Canadian teacher and studied abroad in Canada for about two weeks, which made me think about how I could be treated as an individual and as an equal human being. At the time, I felt a complex about Japan, where people were always polite and only said "yes" to everything.

After graduating from high school, I convinced my parents and grandparents to send me to a university in Canada, which, like the United States, was a country of immigrants. As a matter of course, I often brought food from various countries to my house, such as Eastern Europeans, Middle Easterners, and Mexicans, and we had drinks and socialized with each other. It was like getting to know the culture through the food. I was impressed by the fact that even though they were minorities, they were able to assert themselves and express themselves.

Then I graduated from university in Canada, hung around a bit, and returned to Japan because I wanted to watch the 2002 Japan-Korea World Cup and because I had a connection to Kyoto and found a job there. My job in Kyoto is with a travel agency. It has nothing to do with cooking.

But I guess I was depressed during that period, now that I think about it. I spent a total of nearly five years in Canada, including my adolescence around the age of 20, and suddenly became a salaryman in Japan. I didn't fit in with the Japanese atmosphere, and I wondered what I was going to do....

After that, I studied English to become a translator, returned to Shizuoka for a while, and then, taking advantage of the opportunity, came to Tokyo when I was about 23 or 4 years old, where I successfully got a job at an NHK-affiliated company buying foreign programs and working in English. But in the end, I didn't feel that this job was the one for me! I kept looking for something I could get into. I kept looking for something I could get into. Outside of work, I went to clubs, drank a lot....

Around 2005, when bistros, which are neither cafes nor restaurants, began to appear, I felt that interesting people were beginning to gather there. It was similar to cafes in other countries, where you could have a drink and a proper meal. Some people are making noise, some are reading books. Music is playing. The place where people gather and communication takes place is similar to a club.

I wanted to create a place where this kind of information and people could interact with each other, and for that I thought it would be better if I could cook, so I started in earnest. I studied cooking in Japan, France, restaurants in Okusawa, and at "guisu" in Sangenjaya, working hard and cutting down my own time.

The starting point to which I returned at the Beard in Meguro.

I wanted "Beard" to be a relaxing place, like home, and perhaps people thought it was unique in that I relaxed and was free to do what I wanted. Looking back, I remember that kind of place and atmosphere very well. When I was a child in Shizuoka, I was a grandma's child, but my grandmother was a leader of a women's association, and many people gathered at her house to cook and share meals. When I was studying in Canada, we often gathered at her house and enjoyed meals from all over the world.

I got to know Jérôme through Yuri Nomura, who helped him with a food-themed art project while I was running "Biard. About five years after I started "Beard," I told Jérôme that I wanted to open a restaurant with him in Tokyo. How about in Tokyo? But if he were to come, it would be the only time to do it, so I was totally fine with closing Beard. I thought it would definitely be more fun that way, so we started "The Blind Donkey. I don't want to forget that we have to enjoy ourselves first.

the Blind Donkey

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# People who live for the feast
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