Admiral" has a long history of over 100 years and has evolved uniquely from its honeymoon relationship with sports. This season, Admiral has launched two new sneakers with a London theme, which is also the background of the brand. We invited Keisuke Baba, a stylist with a deep knowledge of London-based culture, to talk about everything from the appeal of the products to his own views on London. In addition, we also had a chance to talk with Yasutomo Ebisu, a photographer who is also a close friend of the brand, about his views on London and the appeal of the products.
Born in Kumamoto in 1958. He became independent from Atsushi Okubo, a stylist. While working at the forefront of fashion for many years, he also serves as the director and designer of ENGLATAILOR by GB, which he directs himself. He is also active as a DJ, mainly at clubs in Tokyo.
The criteria for choosing sneakers is whether they are simple or not.
Baba-san is known for not wearing many sneakers.
horse-riding groundI guess so. I really don't wear sneakers on a regular basis. ( lol ): In Japan, I probably haven't worn sneakers since I was a student. I sometimes wear them when I go abroad for a photo shoot. When we were young, people didn't use the word "sneakers," and we wore leather shoes almost all year round.
(: That was a stupid question. ): So, what do you keep in mind when styling sneakers for your work?
horse-riding groundWhen styling for work, I use them only as accents so that they do not detract from the coordinated look. I tend to choose monotone colors, and I don't often choose the colorful ones that are often seen on the streets these days. The criterion for selection is whether it is simple or not. Simple and clear, right?
In that sense, among Admiral's new sneakers, which is also the theme of this year's exhibition, the model co-created with "McIntosh Philosophy" matches those conditions, don't you think?
horse-riding groundI agree. The design has a nostalgic feel to it, and perhaps because of the collaboration with "McIntosh Philosophy," there is a sense of elegance in the design. I also like the all-white coloring.
How about another new sneaker, the Admiralty Cross series, which uses a special wool material that is original to the brand?
horse-riding groundThe point is: the checkered pattern is so subtle that you have to look at it up close to recognize it. The tweed material on the sneakers is interesting, and the transition between leather and suede is exquisite. If there were other colors like brown, they would sell even better.
The most distinctive feature of this model is that the entire body, despite being made of wool, has been treated with a water-repellent finish. In addition, it is highly durable.
horse-riding groundIs it: water repellent? That's amazing. In Japan, you may not feel it so much, but in London, where Admiral is based, it rains a lot. I've always worn leather boots that I don't mind getting dirty or wet, but this model seems convenient. And if they are durable, so much the better.
You completely charmed me with your video for "London Calling" by The Clash.
When did you first become interested in UK culture?
horse-riding groundI don't remember exactly, but I guess I was around junior high school age. The Beatles were a big influence on me, even though they had already broken up. I was particularly struck by their appearance in a Toshiba audio commercial at the time. Then, when I was about 19 years old, the Sex Pistols made their impressive debut. I think it was around this time that my own mood became fully London-centric. Then I saw the Clash's "London Calling" video, and I was completely enchanted by it.
So your first contact with London culture was through music. On the other hand, what were your tastes in fashion?
horse-riding ground: Fashion is the same. Well, to be precise, I guess I started out in American casual, just like everyone else. I wore flannel shirts and denim. But the music was still British, and after I saw "Saraba Seishun no Hikari" for the first time when I was 23, I immediately became aware of the UK. Immediately after watching the movie, I headed to Nakata Shoten in Ueno to buy a mod coat (laughs).
So you bought it on impulse (laughs). (Laughs.) As the mood for London gradually grew in terms of music and fashion, when did you actually come to the UK?
horse-riding groundI lived there for about two years. I came to Tokyo from Kumamoto after graduating from high school, but returned to my hometown after about three years. Then, after a short period of time, I came back to Tokyo. After a while, I suddenly had an idea to go to London. I started living in London, and after a while, Mr. Atsushi Okubo, who was doing the tour styling for Curiosity Killed the Cat, came to London and I met him through a mutual acquaintance. Then I went back to Japan and became Mr. Okubo's assistant when I was 29 years old. It is interesting that you had such an encounter with him when you came to London.
A brand with a well-spun history.
I see. So your mentor-student relationship began with such a fateful encounter. How was your actual life in London? How did you feel about the movements and trends of the time?
horse-riding groundI was very comfortable living there at the time. It was an English-speaking country, and even if you didn't understand the language, you could get by. However, I don't really remember the trends at that time. I think the New Wave, New Romantic, Pirates, and other trends had ended, and there was no such movement. But in terms of music, The Smiths were outstandingly popular. Perhaps because of that influence, I used to go to clubs a lot. At the time, I was shipping antiques and used clothing to Japan, so I would get up at 5:00 a.m., go to markets and flea markets, come home before noon, and stay in bed until the evening. After that, I had nothing to do at night, so I naturally started going to clubs. I used to go to a club called Taboo, which was run by Lee Bowery. A lot of interesting people came from Paris and other countries outside of Europe, and I met a lot of interesting people there. It's a place I have a lot of fond memories of.
It was a much more stimulating time than now, wasn't it? Were you aware of the Admiral brand at that time?
horse-riding groundI didn't know much about the Admiral brand when I was living in London, but I did have a number of opportunities to see the iconic Admiral logo. However, I had many opportunities to see the iconic Admiral logo, for example, as an official sponsor of Manchester United in soccer, and I had the impression that the brand was strongly associated with sports. I think there was a latent image that the brand was strongly associated with sports.
What kind of image do you have of the Admiral brand now?
horse-riding groundI think there are not many UK-themed brands in this day and age, and I personally like the fact that they are firmly advocating the Union Jack pattern. Also, there aren't many brands whose history has been spun out firmly for more than 100 years. That alone is enough to give it credibility. I would buy a brand that has such a hidden culture of London.
Sneakers "Admiral×MACKINTOSH PHILOSOPHY" ¥14,000, other personal effects of stylist
Sneakers "DOVER AC" ¥11,000, other personal effects of stylist
Sneakers "Admiral×MACKINTOSH PHILOSOPHY" ¥14,000, other personal effects of stylist
Sneakers "PARKLAND AC" ¥13,000, other personal effects of stylist