Creation of the reborn name unraveled from the three garments.
For fall/winter 2018, the domestic brand Name . changed designers and presented a collection under a new organization. The pop colors and unique patterns that characterize the brand have been retained, but the clothes have been created from a more realistic point of view. The brand has evolved into a brand that is more approachable and more fun to wear, while accurately reading the current trends of the scene. The new designer is Takuji Yamada, who had been working as a patterner. We asked him to talk about the reborn "NAME" through the designs of three items that stood out among the collection.
After working for a domestic collection brand, he joined " NAME ". He became a designer for the 2018 Fall-Winter collection.
Fall/Winter 2018 featuring iconic youth .
This season, " NAME " has started under a new organization. Please tell us how you became a designer.
mountain fieldThe previous designer, Mr. Shimizu, decided to quit, and since I had been involved in the production of "NAME" clothes as a patterner and also in planning, it was a natural progression for me to become the designer. There is another staff member, Matsuzaka, who has supported "NAME" for many years, and he is in charge of the entire brand as a director.
What are the differences between your two roles?
mountain fieldWe decide on the overall lineup by brainstorming ideas together. Matsuzaka sees the direction of the brand, and I design specific clothes for it. We complement each other in the areas where the other is lacking.
When the new organization was formed, did you have any kind of discussion about what kind of brand you wanted to create?
mountain fieldUp until now, "NAME" has been producing creations that at first glance appeared to be pop, but were at the same time sharply pointed. We talked about shifting the focus to something that is easier to understand and communicate. We decided to aim for something more enjoyable for customers, not only in terms of design but also in terms of visuals.
But that doesn't mean you are trying to create something basic, does it?
mountain field. Yes, we do. To put it simply, we want to create products that propose new fashions that are one step ahead of needs. Since we have our own store, we have been listening to our customers' opinions and requests, and reflecting them in our designs.
I see.
mountain fieldIn other words, the main point is that the clothes are now more catchy, more accessible, and more acceptable as fashion. . What has not changed is the unique sense of size and the use of color. I am still in charge of patterns, so the silhouette of the clothes when worn has not changed.
In a sense, the unique silhouette of the name has a "name-like" quality.
mountain fieldWe are aware that we are making "real clothes. However, it is not interesting to create clothes that can be found anywhere. We are conscious of drawing patterns that feel strange, in a good sense, when seen or worn up close. The same goes for design. They may look ordinary, but in fact they are not. That is the kind of clothing I am aiming for.
This season, you presented a collection under the theme of "Icons". What kind of thoughts did you have in mind when you chose this theme?
mountain fieldFocusing on youth culture, the magazine features the styles of iconic young people from different eras, including movies and music. For example, Keanu Reeves in the movie "My Private Idaho," or Leonardo DiCaprio and River Phoenix when they were young. . I look at a lot of different styles and take what I like and incorporate it into my creations.
A standard shirt with a pronounced characteristic pattern.
What items would you particularly recommend as a brand?
¥25,000+TAX
mountain field. First of all, this shirt. Pullover oversized shirts are one of " NAME "'s specialties.
. It could be seen as an item in which Mr. Yamada's particular pattern comes to life.
mountain fieldIn addition to the generous shoulder and body width, the pattern draws an exaggerated curve in the sleeves. Usually, the sleeves of a shirt are straight. But by cutting them like this shirt, it creates a sense of discomfort in appearance, and the sleeves are designed to tuck in when worn.
The fabric is somewhat fluffy.
mountain field. It is made of a soft and crisp cotton chambray. The surface is processed by applying heat to make it shiny, which gives it a somewhat clean look.
The chest pocket is also a distinctive feature.
mountain fieldYes, that's right. Normally, the fabric is placed over the top to integrate it with the body, but we designed it as a bag so that it floats. I thought it would be interesting to create a different look when the garment is actually worn.
Austerity and pop. A bomber jacket in which conflicting elements coexist.
Since it is fall/winter, do you have any recommendations on outerwear?
¥300,000+TAX
mountain fieldThis bomber jacket. It is made of Spanish mouton, which is very soft and has no complaints about its warmth. The design is simple, with no unnecessary details. Usually, a leather belt is attached to the chin, but we have made it sporty by using Velcro.
This one is also generously sized.
mountain fieldYes, it is. The body is wider and the armholes are thicker. The oversized silhouette is emphasized in the pattern.
In addition to the silhouette, I feel that the brown and orange coloring also expresses the "NAME" style.
mountain fieldI wanted to use unusual colors, and I thought this would be a good balance. It's like a playful color scheme. Normally, I wouldn't have done that. I think the austerity of the browns and the pop of the oranges worked well together.
Is this dyed?
mountain fieldThe front and back are dyed differently. . I dyed it brown once and then added more orange. In some cases, the colors don't come out as beautifully when there are shades of gray, but it worked out well.
A solid yet distinctive coat with a unique presence.
Since we are here, I would like to ask you to introduce some long-length outerwear at the end.
¥80,000+TAX
mountain fieldThis is an item called a British military motorcycle coat, arranged in the "NAME" style. This item was worn by people who rode motorcycles to war zones to deliver documents and other items. It actually has chest pockets large enough to hold documents without folding them, but we made them a little smaller to make it look more streamlined.
You are using a fabric with a lot of bounce and thickness.
mountain fieldIt's a fabric called "double weave," and it literally has two layers. By weaving it super densely, we made the composition firm and gave it a bounciness. But that alone would make it stiff when worn, so we beat the fabric to soften it and give it a slightly worn look.
What part of the project did you pay particular attention to?
mountain fieldWe wanted to keep the design as solid as possible, so we used magnetic buttons and cut off the edges of the fabric to give a rough impression. The other part is that the front sleeves are set-in (normal sleeves) and the back sleeves are raglan sleeves. This changes the look of the garment and simply makes it more comfortable to wear by expanding the range of motion of the sleeves.
. The accumulation of small details determines the attractiveness of the clothes themselves.
I assume you are already working on the 2019 fall/winter season, but how do you feel about the first season of the new "NAME"?
mountain fieldI used to specialize in pattern work, but now that design work has been added, I frankly feel that it has been very difficult (laughs). (Laughs) This is always the case, not just this season, but after the exhibition, I find things to reflect on, and I am not always satisfied. . I always try to use that as a springboard to make the next season even better.
Nevertheless, what I gained while making clothes as a designer was significant. What exactly did I gain? I don't know exactly what I gained, because it is so big, but I have a stronger desire to make the brand better and better from now on.
Finally, please tell us what you would like people to look for in the new "NAME" and what you would like them to pay attention to.
mountain fieldI have a background as a pattern maker myself, but I want people to enjoy the distinctive cutting and silhouette of the garments. I also want people to pay attention to the fabrics, the use of parts, the smallest details, and other small details, because I believe that it is the accumulation of these small details that determines the appeal of the clothes themselves.
