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FEATURE|Vintage Summit 4: That Vintage Summit 4 is the first gathering of vintage clothing enthusiasts in a year!

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古着サミット4 あの古着好事家が1年ぶりに集結!

Vintage Summit" is a popular minority content that is not for the uninitiated, but has received surprisingly positive reviews from a small group of people. In addition to the regulars Tomohiro Konno, Michihiko Kurihara, and Takashi Abe, Fujihara Yutaka also participated in this fourth edition of the vintage clothing summit, asking what kind of vintage clothing the four are "interested in" at the moment. This time, too, the four of them will be discussing what kind of vintage clothing they are "interested in" at the moment.

  • Photo_Shinji Serizawa
  • Text_State Works
  • Edit_Ryo Komuta

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Tomohiro Konno(Photo left)
NEXUSVII. designer, born 1977, started " NEXUSVII. " in 2001 in New York. He is currently working on the publication of his original book, which will archive his vast collection of rare vintage pieces.
Fujihara Yutaka(middle left)
Director of Ber Ber Jin, born in 1977 . . He is also a vintage denim advisor, making use of his erudite knowledge. . Founder of "THE 501XX® - A COLLECTION OF VINTAGE JEANS" published by WORLD PHOTO PRESS.
Michihiko Kurihara(middle right)
Born in 1977, he started working as a freelance buyer in 2011. He is one of the best vintage dealers in Japan, trusted not only by vintage clothing stores but also by many select stores and brands.
Takashi Abe(Photo right)
Staff member of BEAMS Online Shop, born in 1976. After working for a publishing company and an e-commerce site, she was assigned to her current position. She is in charge of writing for the company's website. She loves vintage bandanas and spends her days visiting vintage clothing stores whenever she can find the time.

Lecture 1: Tomohiro Konno
I finally got a third-pattern mouton jacket in my size."

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The first one is a third type mouton jacket from " Levi's ".

Fujiwara:. this size is rare.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): The rest of the time, there are a lot of buttons flying off or in poor condition.

section (of an orange, etc.). I think I see a lot of moutons that have ripped at the stitching.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Yes, it is. It is mouton, so it is not very strong. I bought these at Bostock, but the condition was not so bad, and most importantly, the size was good. I bought it this year because it was an Olympic year.

section (of an orange, etc.)You don't see much of it, do you?

chestnut field. it was during the Lake Placid Olympics, wasn't it? I've been looking for one for a long time, but I can't find one. . I've never come across one in the U.S. either.

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Fujiwara:The jackets are very rare, but in those cases, they are often in dead stock condition, but rarely in used condition like the jacket you own. Also, many of them are large in size.

chestnut field. I heard that in the case of mouton, the bad condition is caused by bacteria. They say it breeds and tears. So old ones are especially fragile. It depends on the environment in which they were stored.

Fujiwara:. you're a geek too, huh?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): I used to get a size M in "Berberzine", but I gave up on it because it was too big anyway. But this one is a size L and it fits just right.

chestnut field. The same can be said for the third type of suede, but leather goods vary from one to another, don't they? . There are also some leather products with terrible shape and quality.

section (of an orange, etc.): I see that the Kore is not 38 or 40, but S, M, or L denoted.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). yes. But as for this one, for some reason, it was a perfect size even though it was marked L (laughs).

section (of an orange, etc.): Why is that?

chestnut field. No, it's an individual difference, isn't it (laughs). If it was the wrong size or something, the tag would have been cut off, but since the tag is still there, it's not a "B" item.

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section (of an orange, etc.): If it were a "berberzine", how much would you sell it for?

Fujiwara:. hmmm, if the size is good, it would be about 128,000 yen. . But they usually only have large sizes. When I saw this jacket for sale at Bostock, I thought, "Oh, it's a size S," but when I looked at the tag, it was a size L. I was a bit surprised. I was a bit surprised to see that it was a size L. If it were a regular L, it would have been much larger.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). we were lucky with this size.

chestnut field: Come to think of it, it's a winter jacket, but it doesn't have handwarmer pockets (laughs).

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). well, it's mouton, so it's easy to rip. In the period, there were handwarmer pockets, but I guess they didn't put them on, because it would have been a difficult work process to put on a single ball pocket.

section (of an orange, etc.): But if it had those handwarmer pockets, it wouldn't look half as vintage....

chestnut field. Please don't say that. Nowadays, "70506" with handwarmer pockets is also a vintage (laugh). Well, these are tough times (laughs).

section (of an orange, etc.)Can it be sold for: "70506"?

chestnut field: If it's a good size and a good color, it will sell for over 10,000.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): What, are you going to go for 10,000?

Fujiwara:. now it sells for over 10,000.

chestnut field. young kids don't care so much. . there are some good colors in "70506.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). I see. But I've been looking at vintage for a long time, so I'm "without" that detail (laughs).

chestnut field. many people say they like that period feel.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Come to think of it, is there any black denim that isn't 4 pockets?

chestnut field.: I'm pretty sure there may not be any. Come to think of it, there was a rumor that even black denim 501s have red ears.

Fujiwara:. it's almost an urban legend (laughs).

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section (of an orange, etc.). is the USMA sweatshirt next?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). yes, I've brought a variety of USMA unprinted. I thought this irregularity was interesting. Also, there is the fashion trend of the '80s and '90s boom, and for a while I myself didn't wear this reverse weave because I felt uncomfortable with the unique shape, but now I think the thick armholes are good. I think the thick armholes are good now.

section (of an orange, etc.)I remember, when I was in high school, I saw this USMA without prints and thought, "It's a vintage of the previous V!" I seriously misunderstood that (laughs).

chestnut field. me too (laughs). The first Champion sweatshirt I ever bought was this one, and I said, "It's definitely from the '50s because of the rib length. Even though it was the '80s (laughs).

section (of an orange, etc.): I have two crewnecks, is that a difference in time period?

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Yes, one is a single color tag and the other is a tricolor. However, I compared these two pieces in various ways, and the only difference was whether or not there were eyes (the Champion logo) on the sleeves, and the rest of the specifications were almost identical (laughs).

Fujiwara:: I think the gussets are more sharply angled around the time of the Tataki tag ('60s). I've never seen a plain one....

section (of an orange, etc.): Unlike other reverse weaves, this rib is made for this USMA, so why does a plain mono exist?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). I wonder why. . There is also a white herringbone tape on the inside to mark the name.

chestnut field. come to think of it, some of them have "PHYSICAL EDUCATION" under the USMA and some don't. . That is also strange.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). I used to have "PHYSICAL EDUCATION", but it's obvious that the other one has more balls, and the design is a bit annoying. I used to have the "PHYSICAL EDUCATION" as well, but obviously that one has more balls and the design is a bit fussy, so I just keep the USMA notation on this one.

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.).: I recently bought a parka over here from "Berberzine".

section (of an orange, etc.)How much is this?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). 39,800 yen, I believe.

section (of an orange, etc.): What? It's a trico (roll tag) and you do that much?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.).: I rarely get out.

chestnut field: How much for a "berberzine" if it has a USMA print on it?

Fujiwara:I think it's 25,800 yen. The price of Champion T-shirts, including T-shirts, varies greatly depending on the print specifications, such as the number of layers or stains, but recently there has been a trend of saying, "However, there are no plain T-shirts," and plain T-shirts are very popular. The plain T-shirt boom in the area has also coincided, and plain T-shirts with a Trico (roll tag) were 2,800 yen, but now they are 5,800 yen, and if they are in good condition, they are 7,800 yen, and those with pockets, which are said to be hard to find, cost about 19,800 yen, and V-neck T-shirts are 29,800 yen. . Prices change, depending on the current of the times. I was talking with Mr. Konno about this a while ago. The following month, this plain sweatshirt parka arrived at our store and he bought it.

chestnut field: It's right after we talked about it, so it's not like you raised the price even higher (laughs)?

Fujiwara:. There is no way Konno-san can do such a thing (laughs).

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Maybe they let it sit in the warehouse for a while, and intentionally brought it in after we talked about this (laughs).

Fujiwara:. please give me a break (laughs).

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section (of an orange, etc.): Next, Tsunagi?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). Yes, I've got a denim bind. . and the "Super Big Mac" tuna. I thought it was interesting to see how recently the denim has just come full circle.'' In the 90s and early 2000s, I used to wear the current "Carhartt" tunas and the like, but that nostalgia has just come full circle, and it's fresh.

chestnut field. Just at that time, herringbone tuna and the like were in vogue and people were wearing them.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). . I used to wear a herringbone tuna when I worked part-time as a dokata back then, too (laughs). . I also have a few other ties, but I think denim is the most interesting. Denim from this era is quite expensive when you buy pants or jackets, but you can still find tsunagi, and since they are not so expensive, they are easy to find.

section (of an orange, etc.). it's rare to find an old Ben Davis, isn't it? How old is this one?

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). probably '40s or '50s.

section (of an orange, etc.)Ben Davis: I don't know anything about this, but how long has "Ben Davis" been around?

chestnut field.: I don't have a detailed date, but I think it was probably in the '30s. Ben Davis is the nephew of Jacob Davis, right?

Fujiwara:: Yes, yes, nephew of one half of the founder of " Levi's ".

section (of an orange, etc.). Heh, I see. By the way, when did you buy this one?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). It's been more than 10 years since I bought this one. I bought it at "Berberzine," and I think it was quite inexpensive, around 19,800 yen . At that time, I was still just a friend of Mr. Yamada, the president, so I bought it normally without negotiating (laughs).

Fujiwara:. (laughs). Not to change the subject, but this "Super Big Mac" is also bad (laughs). When did you buy this one?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). This was this summer. There is a good store in Mito called "Stray Sheep" that mainly deals with UK vintage, and when I went there, I found this "Super Big Mac" and was allowed to buy it. I went there and found this "Super Big Mac" and was allowed to buy it.

section (of an orange, etc.)How old is this?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). I think it is from the '40s , because of the "super" on it.

section (of an orange, etc.)I didn't know there was a "Super Big Mac" after the 1950s.

Fujiwara:.: probably not.

section (of an orange, etc.). If you look closely, you can see that the design of the snap buttons is also different from the font on the "Big Mac".

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). yes, it is. . The color of the denim is quite beautiful. I thought that they probably used a good warp yarn, judging from the way the color faded at the hem. I think the warp in today's denim varies from one manufacturer to another, and many manufacturers proudly say that their denim is "eared," but there is a wide range (laughs). (Laughs). I don't think it is easy to make a fabric like the one used in "Super Big Mac".

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section (of an orange, etc.): the tag says short , does this mean length?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Yes, there should be a short and a long, but unfortunately the short was enough for me (laughs).

chestnut field.: There are few sizes in this category, since most of them are large. In the U.S., we call them "coveralls.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, that's right. By the way, Levi's coveralls have a "K" instead of a "C" at the beginning, but when did that happen?

Fujiwara:. the kids' one is '30s.

section (of an orange, etc.)Why is that a "K" instead of a "C"?

chestnut field. I heard that was a fad in the '20s and '30s.

section (of an orange, etc.)I don't know about the "K," but there used to be a bandana called "TUSIDE," but maybe they intentionally changed the "TWO" to "TU" in the bandana. I wonder if they changed "TWO" to "TU" on purpose. I remember that Mr. Kojima's brand "Kaptain Sunshine" also has a "K" instead of a "C" in the first letter.

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The last one is Patagonia.

section (of an orange, etc.)I don't really have an image of you wearing Patagonia, do you?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): I used to like the Super Alpine Jacket in black, and I even had one without snow tag and one with snow tag. I thought there was a difference between them, but there was no difference at all except for the tag, and when I realized that, I gave them both away (laughs). I honestly don't know that much about Patagonia, but I started with the look of the fleece, and since there are simply no good fleeces like this one, I thought it would be better to buy an existing good one than to make my own, so I brought this one with me this time.

section (of an orange, etc.)Why did you choose these two models?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). I simply love this purple and blue color scheme of Patagonia, don't you?

section (of an orange, etc.): Is this two-tone model a sample?

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Yes . . so it doesn't have pockets. You don't see them very often, but there are a few samples like this that differ from left to right. However, many of them are quite bizarre color schemes, and I can't wear them. But I like this color scheme because I like both colors.

chestnut field: I've heard that this type of boy's size is for charity. I heard that they were made from surplus fabric.

section (of an orange, etc.)When did you buy it?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): This was just recently. I bought it at the reopened "Okidoki".

section (of an orange, etc.): Oh, this one was featured on your instagram.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). that's it (laughs). But this one remained for a while after we opened.

Fujiwara:. I went there a few days after it opened, and I saw this (laughs).

chestnut field. I saw it in person at a store, too (laughs). (Laughs.) I looked at it once and had a hard time deciding what to do with it, and when I went to look at it after returning from a business trip to Japan, it had been sold. When I asked a staff member about it, he said, "Konno-san came in yesterday and bought it" (laughs).

Fujiwara:. I was also quite worried about it, but since it was a sample, the sleeve lengths on the left and right sides were different, and that bothered me, so I gave up on it.

chestnut field. I tried it on too (laughs). But I hesitated to buy it because the sleeves were too long on one side.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I bought it too, but it didn't bother me at all (laughs). I tried it on and bought it, but it didn't bother me at all (laughs).

. The next page shows the personal belongings of "Berberzine" Fujihara Yutaka.
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