The moment when EDWIN jeans are born.Whole View of EDWIN Vol.05
This year, EDWIN opened its new headquarters in Meguro, Tokyo. There, the planning team, pattern makers, production managers, and various other workers continue to go through a process of trial and error to create new jeans every day. How are items that symbolize Japan denim produced in this place where the history of domestic jeans and the vast know-how of jeans making over half a century have been condensed? Through interviews with the staff who support each section, we will clarify the process.
The thoughts of the staff responsible for the Edwin style.
EDUIN jeans offer a wide variety of styles, but how does the planning process work? We asked the members of the men's planning team at EDOIN to share their thoughts on jeans and the process leading up to production. The members of the team are Kenta Sasaki (43 / photo on right), who has been with the company for 20 years and is mainly in charge of Edouin's flagship model "503," Keita Motomura (33 / middle photo), who has been with the company for 10 years and mainly handles international basics, and Rio Kuriyama (24 / photo on left), who has been with the company for 2 years and handles products for directly managed stores and GMS. (age 24 / photo on left), who has been with the company for two years and handles products for directly managed stores and GMS.
What kind of thoughts did you all have when you joined Edouin?
SasakiI had just experienced the height of the vintage and replica boom in the 1990s, so jeans were something I was familiar with. I first became aware of Edwin when I saw Brad Pitt in a 503 commercial, which got me interested in the brand.
main villageI always wanted to work in manufacturing. I chose "EDUIN" because I had always loved jeans. I did not go to a fashion school, so I had no experience at all in making clothes, but as soon as I joined the company, I was involved in planning. I thought making clothes would be easy, but when I started working on it, I realized how difficult it was because there were so many things to think about.
chestnut-mountainI have always loved clothes, and I joined EDUIN because I wanted to know how they are made. I have no experience learning how to make clothes, but I am now acquiring knowledge and skills through practical experience on the job.
How does the product planning process for "Edwin" start?
SasakiWe begin planning for each season's exhibition. For the longest items, we start from the development of the fabric, and some items take about one year to complete. For bottoms alone, we make 200 to 300 models each season, or 500 to 600 models a year.
main villageEdwin" has a variety of series, so I divide my responsibilities and plan for each series. I try to design products that match the taste of each series.
It seems like a lot of work to plan one basic item, jeans, after another...
SasakiThe term "jeans" in a nutshell is a very deep one. The silhouette, of course, but also the depth of the crotch, width of the gutter, length, and details such as the shape, size, and position of the pockets, are all changing rapidly with the times. In addition, the concept of jeans can change drastically with the introduction of new materials, as stretch fabrics have become mainstream. Therefore, we have to update something every year and every season.
chestnut-mountainIt is necessary not only to follow trends, but also to make new suggestions from our side. For this reason, on my days off, I make an effort not to dull my sensibility by walking around town, watching people on the street, checking out stores, and engaging as much as possible with people who are sensitive to fashion.
main villageHowever, after making jeans for so long, I sometimes run out of ideas, and I sometimes feel stuck in a rut. At such times, I break through by seeking opinions from various people inside and outside the company, or by looking at how people of a different age from myself wear their jeans and getting new inspiration.
SasakiOn the other hand, it is not good to be too influenced by others and stray too far from the "EDUIN" style. On the other hand, it is no good to be too self-centered, or to be too conscious of the "EDUIN" brand and play it safe. It is difficult to maintain a good balance. However, since "EDUIN" has many series with different tastes and prices, there are fewer restrictions compared to other fashion brands, and in a good sense, there is a high degree of freedom. I would like to make the most of this environment and enjoy making things.
EDWIN is the oldest jeans brand in Japan and has a huge archive of jeans from the past. Are there any advantages to be gained from this?
SasakiEdwin has several hundred cardboard boxes of jeans in its archives from the 1960s, when it first started manufacturing jeans, to the present. Of course, we sometimes refer to these archives. For example, oversized jeans and chemical-washed jeans that were popular in the 80s and 90s are now being revived. At such times, reviewing the archives of that era can sometimes give us hints. When you have been in the business for a long time, the knowledge you have accumulated in the past and the ideas you have come up with can come full circle and blossom in the present. This is one of the strengths of being a long-established company.
Are there any other strengths unique to "Edwin" that you can share with us?
chestnut-mountainThe fact that we have our own factory is very important. All new employees go to our factory in Tohoku and live there for about two months for training. During the training, they are actually involved in processes such as cutting, sewing, and washing. Through this experience, my understanding of jeans has deepened dramatically, and I am now able to plan projects with the production site in mind.
main villageAnother advantage of having our own factory is that we are able to speedily check planned items by incorporating them into samples. Since communication with each other is smooth, any problems can be handled immediately, and nuances can be easily conveyed. From a planning standpoint, this is very helpful.
Lastly, please tell us what you think is unique about "EDUIN.
main villageIt is the high quality, after all. It is EDUIN's policy to deliver products that are sure to meet our customers' needs through thorough quality control at our own factories.
chestnut-mountainI bought a pair of "Edwin" jeans when I was in junior high school, and they are still in use today. That's how high the quality and perfection is. The fabric, the sewing, the accessories, and everything else all together are different from the rest.
SasakiWe want to continue to make jeans that can be worn by as many people as possible, regardless of nationality, age, or style, from those who are particular about their jeans to those who are not. I think this is important for EDUIN, and it is also what makes our brand interesting. Many fashion brands make jeans, but as long as we are carrying the signature of "EDUIN" as a jeans manufacturer, we need to make people feel that our jeans are different from others. For that reason, I would like to continue to make better jeans.
TEXTILE & PARTS
The slightest difference determines the face of the jeans.
The process of making jeans begins with the selection of the fabric that determines their face. EDWIN has used a huge variety of denim fabrics, and even today, most of the materials are developed from scratch. Therefore, partnerships with spinning companies and fabric makers are very important. We ask fabric makers to send us fabric swatches that match the jeans we have in mind, and we thoroughly examine the color, texture, and color fading of the swatches. If there are any differences from the image or sewing defects, we may ask them to change the yarn twisting or fabric weaving method. In addition, we sometimes take inspiration from newly developed fabrics by fabric manufacturers to plan new products.
Edouin creates products for a wide range of users. We use a variety of fabrics, from firm-ounce selvedge denim for those who want authenticity to stretch denim for those who want ease of wear," says Motomura.
Not only the fabric, but also the stitching is an element that influences the look of jeans. Just by changing the stitching in millimeter increments, the overall impression can be completely changed. It is also important to consider stitching according to the characteristics of the fabric. For example, stretch fabrics may shrink significantly when washed, causing the sewn area to ripple. In such cases, we can improve the situation by changing the stitch width or sewing machine speed.
The width of the seam allowance, which affects the appearance of bites, is also adjusted delicately. Since more and more people are particular about their jeans, we now design them with more detailed calculations than in the past," says Mr. Motomura.
Of course, we are particular about accessories such as buttons, rivets, and leather labels that assert the identity of the brand. There are about a hundred different types of buttons and rivets, which are selected according to the series and the image of the item. Leather labels, flashers, and pith names are sometimes newly designed depending on the item.
Sometimes, when you are too particular about the fabrics and accessories, the jeans as a whole can look somewhat unbalanced. It is important to have a bird's-eye view of the finished jeans," says Mr. Kuriyama.
PATTERN
It creates a fit that is unique to Edouin.
The pattern maker's job is to give concrete shape to the image of jeans developed by the planning team. In many cases, apparel makers order patterns from outside pattern makers, but at Edouin, 100%, our own employees are in charge of pattern making.
Based on the specifications created by the planning team and the nuances of the interviews, the pattern maker makes fine adjustments and produces drawings using CAD. The fabric is then printed out on a large printing press and cut with scissors accordingly. The fabric is then sewn to fit the torso.
It is important to create a highly accurate pattern at the beginning, because it will change the speed of production. It is important to make a highly accurate pattern at the beginning, because it will change the speed of production. Therefore, I make my own improvements while taking into account the thickness of the fabric, the degree of stretch, the shrinkage rate, and other factors. I also devise patterns to make sewing easier at the factory, and give instructions on the sewing machine and sewing method to be used.
Every few years, the silhouette of the International Basics, one of EDWIN's flagship series, undergoes a major update. When this happens, everyone from planning, production, and pattern makers to sales staff gathers to discuss the direction of the new silhouette.
It's like the whole company is making one pair of jeans. I think that is why we are able to create universal jeans that are loved by many people. That's why we have a lot of responsibility, but it's also very rewarding.
The close proximity between employees and the company's own factory make for a smooth workflow. It is a blessed environment for pattern makers" (Ms. Shuri Saito, Design Section 1).
QUALITY MANAGEMENT
Protecting Edwin quality by keeping track of production status.
Once the pattern is finalized, the person in charge of production and quality control orders the factory to produce a sample. The samples are then thoroughly checked against the specifications to ensure that there are no deficiencies. If there are any differences from the specifications, such as the color of the fabric, sewing, or color fading process, we request the factory to make corrections. When using a fabric for the first time, we also visit the factory to check the process. Once the corrections are made and the "advance sample" made on the actual production line is completed and there are no problems, we give the go-ahead for full production.
There are sometimes differences in color between the first sample and the sample on the production line. Even if the difference is slight, we will instruct the customer to make corrections without compromise so that they will be satisfied with the product.
Even though Eduwin has its own factory, it is not always possible to carry out production as expected. This is because the production line for another product may already be in operation for the next few days. Therefore, it is the job of production and quality control to understand the factory schedule and make adjustments to ensure efficient production.
If a product is for winter, the schedule must be calculated so that production is completed by winter. When a product is a hit, we may have to add production on short notice. Also, different factories have different areas of expertise, so we need to select the right factory for that product. We look at these various situations and adjust the schedule so that we can meet the delivery date and not leave any space on the production line at any factory. We are always on our toes until the finished product is delivered to the distribution center," says Shuhei Ito, Production Section 1.
Two types of gem jeans that showcase Edouin's capabilities.
As we have seen, it takes the involvement of many people to finally complete a pair of jeans. Each person in charge has experience, knowledge, passion for jeans, and pride in their craftsmanship, which enables them to produce high quality products that live up to the name of Japan's leading jeans manufacturer. These two models, created to commemorate the second anniversary of EDOIN's Harajuku store, are recent masterpieces of EDOIN. On the left is the "BARIKATA DENIM," made of a rough, heavy 23-ounce denim fabric. The fabric is so hard that craftsmen beat it with hammers while sewing. The feel of wearing it like armor and the unique color fading are appealing. On the right is "Gombuto Denim," featuring a thickness that ranks first or second among "EDUIN" products. It is made of high-quality selvedge denim woven on a shuttle loom using Zimbabwe cotton. It features an uneven texture, supple comfort, white stitching, and slash pockets. It is only because EDUIN has its own factories and know-how accumulated over many years that it is able to produce items with such an extreme attitude. Try these on and you will experience the power of "EDUIN" for yourself.
