A person who lives for the feast . Kumiko Asaoka, Owner Chef, Epice Ginza</trp-post-container

The interview of FOOD People

A person who lives for the feast. Kumiko Asaoka, Owner Chef, Epice GINZA

Japan , one of the world's leading food nations. People's interest in food is constantly high, and new restaurants are opening one after another. So, who are the people behind the food industry? Among them, HOUYHNHNM focuses on those who have a style of their own. In this issue, we asked Kumiko Asaoka, a specialist in spice blends, to talk about the all-encompassing appeal of spices that goes beyond curry and even cooking. What is the dazzling and fascinating world of spices? What do spices and fashion have in common? We will explore the essence of spices and fashion.

  • Add this entry to Hatena Bookmarks

Kumiko Asaoka / Owner chef of "épices GINZA

He grew up with parents who ran a spice company, and he himself imported, manufactured, sold, and gave classes on how to use spices, etc. In 2016, he opened the restaurant and spice confectionery "Epice GINZA" in Ginza, limited to one couple per day and by referral only. With the theme of "aroma and taste woven by spice blends," he continues his activities as a consultant, lecturer, magazine and TV guest, and supervisor.

Original experience with spices.

My parents owned a spice company, so I was surrounded by spices from childhood. At home, we had about six kinds of pepper alone and four kinds of cinnamon, and from around the age of 10, I started cooking with them myself. My repertoire included hamburgers and pumpkin pudding. We didn't have any ready-made seasonings at home, so Worcestershire sauce and mustard were all homemade. It may sound strange, but I first tasted ready-made curry roux at an elementary school lunch, and I was so impressed by its taste ("How delicious!"). I was so impressed (laughs). . Because of that environment, cooking from scratch with multiple spices was something that I took for granted. As an adult, I took over my parents' business of importing, manufacturing, and selling spices and herbs, and also began to give classes on how to use them.

Spice = Curry is not enough.

Most people think of spices as curry, but the world is much larger. Most people are not really aware of it, but spices can be found in just about anything. Sansho (Japanese pepper) on unagi (eel), shichimi (seven spice) on udon (Japanese noodles), and so on are all spices. Even olive oil is a spice. If you try it, you will feel the spiciness.

Besides, spices are not only used for cooking. Like Chinese herbs, they are essentially natural ingredients for health. For example, when I was a child, I used to chew cloves whenever I had a cavity. . This is because cloves are good for neuralgia and joint pain. . Even now, I drink lemongrass tea at the beginning of a cold to keep myself in good shape. Some people may feel uncomfortable when they hear that "garam masala is almost the same as stomach medicine," but "cinnamon" in the ingredients list is cinnamon, "choji" is clove, "licorice" is licorice, "茴香" is fennel, and "茴香" is fennel. They are just called different things.

Of course, the reason for my interest could be curry or anything else. Some of the people I have met have painted with spice pigments. Myself, I eat for my body. There are many entrances to spices, and anyone can enter, from anywhere. I would like to convey the charm and fun of blending to those who have entered the world of spices in this way.

Spice blends are good , not bad.

The interesting thing about spices in the first place is that their taste and aroma change depending on where they are grown and when they are cultivated. For example, turmeric from Okinawa differs from that from India. Spices are unique to each country and region. When the concept of "blending" is added to the mix, the amount and type of spices used will reflect the individual's philosophy and preferences. Depending on where the spices come from and what kind of spices they are, and who blends them, the possibilities of spices are endlessly expanding. I am very attracted to the world of spice blends, which cannot be expressed in words, cannot be seen with the eye, and are ambiguous in a good way. It is something that is very freeing, something that cannot be judged in terms of good or bad.

There was a time when I used the term "mix" instead of "blend. However, when I thought about it, I felt that "mixing" gave the impression of blending several ingredients together in a blender. The beauty of using the word "blend" is that it gives the impression of creating something different while taking advantage of the characteristics of each ingredient. Just as there are blended products in coffee and whiskey, I feel that it is possible to create something new by combining several things, as opposed to a single product.

. through "cooking" and "storytelling," and communicate directly to the people.

I want to convey the appeal of spices to as many people as possible. Although we have more than 100 kinds of spices and serve dishes and sweets from 30 countries, what I really wanted to do was to entertain people with spices. I want to provide a cozy space similar to when I invite people to my home, so I limit the number of couples to one per day, and I only accept referrals.

When a customer arrives at the restaurant, we first talk with him or her to understand his or her day and physical condition before assembling the menu. Then, we bring each dish to the table and explain the spices used in the dish and the background of the dish. Eating" is an act of entrusting one's life to us, so we want to make sure that we put our heart and soul into our dishes. . I think that customers who are accustomed to eating at restaurants would be more pleased if they could have the food cooked for them. I want them to be pleased with this unique and special experience.

At the store, we hold seminars for those who wish to learn the art of blending spices. I myself have been surrounded by spices since I was a child, so now I can blend spices by feel according to the dishes I make and my mood and physical condition, but it is difficult for the average person to blend spices out of the blue. . For example, you may choose pepper according to the dish with your senses. For steak, coarsely ground is good, and for ramen, powdered goes well. . . In the same way, I would like to help people to be able to choose spice blends with their senses.

Japanese people are serious, so they try to memorize recipes and tend to think that there are rules on how to use them, but that is not true, it is really more free. In extreme cases, I always mix spices by feel. . because I am always changing the spice mixture according to my physical condition and the people I am eating with.

However, "freedom" does not mean anything goes. Whether it is curry or sausage, one must know the culture and background of the region where it is made, learn the aroma and characteristics of each spice, and then be able to enjoy the freedom of blending. I believe that without a certain foundation, freedom is not possible.

Spice blends and fashion go hand in hand!

Recently, I have been thinking that spice blending is very similar to fashion. Fashion is all about trends, but it is also about the way tops and bottoms are paired, the colors and designs one prefers, and the individuality of the person who wears it. The impression of the clothes themselves also changes depending on the person who wears them. When I go to apparel-related events, I find that the people participating in these events wear clothes that they want to wear because they want to wear them, and I really like that.

I myself am not a fashionista, so I don't always understand, but , "Why did you choose those shorts?" . I ask them. . The less stereotyped the way I dress, the more interested I become. The sense of fashion that is not about what others think of you, but how you want to wear it, is very similar to the blending of spices, from my point of view. I think that people who are interested in fashion are the ones who actually have the sense to freely enjoy spice blending.

épices GINZA

www.epiceginza.co.jp
Futaba Bldg. 1F and 2F, 8-18-6 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

Cooking with Spices from Around the World" course begins.
Spice Cooking Academy "12 Months of Curry" starting October 2019.
*For details, please refer to the website .
*Contact us by e-mail only.
asaokaacademy@gmail.com

TAG
#FOOD
# People who live for the feast
# Hood
  • Add this entry to Hatena Bookmarks
Page Top