FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

The winds of the West Coast have brought to the Elder Statesman.
The Statement From LA

The West Coast winds into The Elder Statesman.
What it brought about.

The Elder Statesman" is quite unique in the world of fashion, where new and hot brands emerge every day and everyone struggles to assert their individuality. Although it is not a commercial brand, its use of the finest cashmere and its creative ideas and colors that overturn the concept of luxury materials, simply by being in the store, gives it a presence that overwhelms others. Greg Chait is a designer who has been steering the ship at his own pace in California. What does he have in store for us?

  • Photo_Kota Yagi
  • Text_Rui Konno
  • Edit_Ryo Muramatsu

PROFILE

Greg Chait.

Born in Toronto in 1978 . After graduating from university, he entered the entertainment industry. Later, he was involved in the launch of the Australian brand "Subi" in the U.S., and in 2007, he established his own brand, "The Elder Statesman. He currently lives with his family in Malibu, LA, and takes time out of his busy schedule to surf on the beach near his home.

I didn't even go to fashion school,
My current workplace is like a laboratory.

When was the last time you visited Japan?

Greg Chait ("Greg"):The last time I was here was last November. This time you are only staying for 5 days.

And after that, you went back to another country?

Greg:No, I'm going back to LA once . . then New York , North Carolina , Nice , etc. In October, I'm going to Scorpion Bay, Mexico. Then Senegal .

Are they all business strips?

Greg:My main purpose is to have fun, but it is also connected to my work. If I don't enjoy myself, I can't do a good job. So, I don't have a rigid schedule and don't have to do anything. I connect what I see, hear, and feel to my work.

Do you feel the same way when you come to Japan?

Greg:Of course. I have been to Japan about 10 times, mostly in Tokyo, and have never been to a place with a lot of nature. I have been to Japan with my daughter, who is now 9 years old, but we only went to Kyoto at that time, and twice to Fukuoka after that. . I've never been in touch with Japanese nature, and I'd like to see that. . Because I have yet to see what kind of balance the people of Japan live in. Japan is a country that you have to dig deep to understand. So, it is taking me a long time to get to know it.

I'm sure there are many people who are curious about how the colors are created when they see the clothes of "The Elder Statesman," but does that experience come through in your clothes?

Greg:That's a good question. Yes, I think that's part of it. We don't have the usual fashion brand approach of saying, "This is the theme of the season, so let's use these colors. We really value the mood and feeling of each day the most, and we always try to communicate that to our team.

. It's an unusual way of output, isn't it? Doesn't that sometimes lead to something unexpected for you?

Greg:That's right. . but that doesn't mean it's a failure. It is more enjoyable when there are surprises, including the question, "Why did it turn out this way? I enjoy surprises more than failures. I didn't go to fashion school or anything, so my workplace is like a laboratory for me. I can use what I already know and what I already know as a store of knowledge, but I don't think that's enough. I think it is necessary to constantly challenge myself and do research, to learn what can go wrong and what can be done differently.

A: In the first place, what was it that made you become so conscious of cashmere?

Greg:I think it was 2003? . a friend gave me a blanket, and it was made of cashmere. Of course I had been exposed to cashmere before that, but for some reason that blanket particularly struck a chord with me. What is this? . That was the beginning. That was the beginning.

Cashmere blankets have been developed since the dawn of time. It is of course extremely smooth to the touch, and is also quite large in size. This is the heart of the Elder Statesman. I often felt that ordinary blankets were too small for me to use, so I decided on this size. ." ¥428,000+tax (Sotheby's League)

You must have been in your mid-20s at that time , what kind of work were you doing?

Greg:. I worked for a company in the entertainment industry. For example, I set up various celebrities for the Academy Awards ceremony. I was working for Gucci at the time, and I was taking care of Leonardo DiCaprio, Snoop Dogg, and all these people, and taking them with me.

So you were not directly involved in the clothing industry. That's a little surprising.

Greg:. I think my experience from that time probably contributed to the idea in some way, though. When I was at this company, it was not enough just to follow up on the work of musicians and actors, but suddenly I was asked by a fashion company like Gucci, and I had to make arrangements. I had to think about what I could do for them, because they were coming at me from all different angles. The Elder Statesman" is not structured like a typical fashion company, so I still feel like our approach is similar in that sense.

Ten years ago, when the Elder Statesman first came to Japan, Japanese clothing lovers were amazed at the quality, ideas, and prices. At that time, the distance between high-end and casual clothing was not as close as it is now, so it was even more surprising.

Greg:Hahaha (laughs). When we started this brand, we already had a sense of what it would be like. Luckily, I was surrounded by many people who had that kind of sensibility in their lives. It's not that I made the products with this in mind, but I do very detailed work on each piece, and that's why the prices are what they are. It's not that I'm trying to make a high profit. But I appreciate the price because it proves that I can honestly express everything I want to express.

Besides, luxury is something you can get for free without paying for it. For example, when camping, if you happen to find a great campsite and the environment is wonderful, you can get something wonderful even if it costs $5 a night. . Maybe it's similar to that kind of mix-and-match feeling.

Palm trees in a variety of colors are one of the motifs Greg often uses. Although it is straightforward and gives a sense of Los Angeles, "It could be a palm tree in L.A., or maybe in Zushi," Greg says, "I just went there yesterday. I just went there yesterday," says Greg. Knit ¥268,000+tax (Sotheby's League)

. the moment I touch a hair fiber, I can imagine what it would be like.

A. How many people do you have working in your workshop and how long does it take to make one garment?

Greg:There are 55 of us now. Of course, we do all the coloring and other processes ourselves, but if we were just knitting, it would take about 15 hours for this blanket. If I were just knitting, it would take about 15 hours for this blanket. However, since I start from spinning the yarn and check the color by exposing the blanket to direct sunlight, it takes quite a bit of time. . Depending on the weather, it takes even more time.

What was the most difficult part of learning how to use cashmere?

Greg:. I haven't found it difficult so far. Earlier, I mentioned that we start from spinning the yarn, but that means that we bring a mass of raw wool to the factory. So I know how much it costs, down to the millimeter, and now I can imagine how it will turn out the moment I touch the fibers of the wool. I know it by feeling. So as long as I don't lose that feeling, I don't think I'll run into anything difficult.

Michelangelo said, "I found an angel in the marble and kept digging to set him free.

Greg:Ahahaha , thanks (LOL) , Thanks man !

In addition to knits and blankets, the Elder Statesman also offers a playful selection of stuffed animals and cushions, which is typical of the brand.

Conversely, have you ever been hurt or saddened in the course of carrying on with the brand?

Greg:That happens every day (laughs). . Everyday work and living conditions are like steering a big boat. Today is a beautiful day, and the waves look calm, but there are gray clouds in the corner of the sky, so maybe something will happen. But we won't know until we get there. . Even if there are high waves coming in and the boat almost capsizes, there is always something to learn, and even if it does capsize, I think about how to get up and move on, over and over again, day after day.

. It's wonderful that you don't look like that when you talk to me like this.

Greg:My best friend often says that to me. I think it's one of my strengths, but there's a good side and a bad side to it. I have a good side and a bad side. I can't do this anymore! (Laughs.) I'm tanned from surfing, I have a beard, and I have cute eyes, if I do say so myself (laughs), so people might not understand me if they only look at that part of my face. But even when I am in a helpless mood, people around me start laughing without noticing it, and when someone laughs, it becomes contagious, so I think I am good at creating an environment where I can always laugh.

Greg, in a washed and faded old band tee, relaxed as he talked to us. The "HAPPY?" message on the back was also somewhat meaningful.

As symbolized by the bankruptcy filing of "Barneys New York," there is a serious mood in the American fashion world today.

Greg:. To be honest, we don't really understand the larger business or the environment around us. The Elder Statesman is very special, still a very small group, and I want to be in control of everything. That's why I can present each and every piece with 100% confidence. 5 years ago, I opened a flagship store in LA, and since then, I've been putting a lot of money and effort into it. . This way, the company can grow and I can take on more challenges.

INFORMATION

Sotheby's League

Phone: 03-5412-1937
elder-statesman.com