FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

The two vintage connoisseurs have developed an editorial approach to design.
NEXUSVII. meets GENERAL RESEARCH

The two vintage connoisseurs have developed an editorial approach to design.

An encounter between two designers has resulted in a unique product. Tomohiro Konno of NEXUSVII. and ..... RESEARCH (.... Setsumasa Kobayashi of "NEXUSVII. The two are known as vintage connoisseurs, so they were able to tell a story about each and every detail. Now that collaborations are being done here and there, this coat is the result of a careful digestion of the meaning of those words. We asked the two to talk about the creation process, which Mr. Kobayashi describes as "editing rather than creation.

  • Photo_Fumihiko Ikemoto
  • Text_Yuichiro Tsuji
  • Edit_Yosuke Ishii

PROFILE

Setsumasa Kobayashi
.... .Research

Born in 1961. After working as a shoemaker, he started his own brand, "General Research," in the 1990s, and since 2006 has been working as ".... Since 2006, he has been working on various labels such as "Mountain Research" for mountain living as "General Research".

PROFILE

Tomohiro Konno
NEXUSVII.

Born in 1977, he started "NEXUS VII." in 2001 under the concept of "Multiple Maniax & Technix. He has a deep knowledge of vintage clothing and is particular about fabrics, sewing, and other production backgrounds, and he works to create products with a high level of perfection down to the smallest detail.

When I heard that Konno kun was coming, I thought, "What are we talking about?

. First of all, please tell us how this collaboration came about.

Konno:It all started with this straitjacket, and when I saw a photo of 2pac wearing one, I remembered that I had a straitjacket with similar specifications. So I went to the warehouse and picked it up, and I was inspired to make a coat using it as a motif.

But when I think about it, Mr. Kobayashi did something similar to that idea before me. He made a coat with a belt. I remember wearing items from "General Research" when I was in high school, and since we are in the same industry, I thought it would be rude not to get his approval, so I went to meet with Mr. Kobayashi.

So the belt of the straitjacket and the coat of the "General Research" belt are connected. Were you two originally acquainted with each other?

Konno:Once upon a time, Mr. Okishima of "Stussy" took me to an exhibition, and I just said hello to him. But this time, I asked Mr. Okishima if he could reintroduce me to the company.

Kobayashi:Normally, I wouldn't go out of my way to do that (laughs). When I heard from Okishima-kun that he was going to bring Konno, I thought, "What on earth is he talking about? But when I met him and listened to what he had to say, I realized that he was a very proper person. The exact opposite of my own style! (Laughs).

But when you give me a story like this, it burns me up so much. It is the core of my brand. It was actually Konno's project, but since he came to me for permission, I was allowed to work on a variety of details as well.

When did you meet again?

Konno:It was around the time we were approaching the winter of last year, when we were thinking about what to plan for the fall/winter of 2020, and this was a product we were thinking about at that early stage.

Kobayashi:The most amazing thing is that they have this straitjacket. And it's a very good degree.

Konno:More than 10 years ago, I was collecting pictures of prison uniforms and paintings of so-called "serial killers," and I bought a straitjacket along with it.

What age is it?

Kobayashi:. maybe this is earlier than the 60's.

Konno:The one with this belt is the back body, and you cross your arms in front to restrain them.

Kobayashi:So I can never take it off myself (smiles).

. When I looked into it, it seems that it was originally developed for medical use. . From there, it seems that the image gradually changed to that of something worn by violent criminals.

Kobayashi:Looking at the thickness of the fabric and the leather of the belt, I think he was wearing it on someone with great arm strength.

But when I look at the details of the finished product this time, I still think it's great. The idea came directly from the un-sophistication of the straitjacket, and I think it will improve as time goes on and it becomes more expressive.

You mentioned that it was a photo from 2pac that inspired you.

Konno:2pac was wearing a white straitjacket and the belt was in the shot of his backside, which had a great impact on me.

I see that belt reminded you of the coat from "General Research". How did that coat come about?

Kobayashi:I once saw a small black-and-white photo of a ranch lunchware, with the topmost part like that. I think it was the kind that you put on and fasten at the top, but it was a small photo, so I couldn't make out the details. But if it was a ranch wear, the leather would have been thick enough, and it was easy to associate it with the kind of metal fittings that would have been used. I was a shoemaker at the time, so leather was readily available, and I could buy buckles right away. I thought that the buckles used at the ranch would probably be cast iron, so I bought them. I also bought a duffle coat and a pea coat, removed the buttons and laces, and tried to find the best place to attach the belt.

. In Mr. Kobayashi's case, it was lunchware, wasn't it?

Kobayashi:Of course I knew about straitjackets and had a connection. In asking about straitjackets this time, I asked Konno to look at an image I had myself.

Konno:Most of the items were new to me as well, and I was told that there were items derived from them and other such things.

Kobayashi:It's a resource within a resource, the straitjacket. The material was stiff and everyone loved it . . but it was not something that could be easily swept away in a casual direction. . So I think it's hard to make it into a fashion unless someone boldly takes up the challenge.

INFORMATION

V.E.L.

Address: 3-52-5-1F Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 12:00 - 20:00
Phone: 03-5771-4774
nexusⅶ.jp

*The Stray Macchino Coat by NEXUSⅦ. x General Research introduced this time will be a made-to-order product scheduled for release in mid-October 2020.
Orders can be placed from Monday, June 1 to Monday, June 8 at the following URL.
shop-nexus7vn.com/