Michael Tapia and Hiroyuki Yagisawa. 17 Years of Encounters.
On February 22, 2017, a small store named "CASSIDY HOME GROWN" closed its doors due to the aging of the building, and its functions were transferred to "HARAJUKU CASSIDY. The owner of this store, Hiroyuki Yagisawa, is known as a great lover of America and has a taste for wearing basic items in a sophisticated and charming manner. One of the designers he fell in love with was Michael Tapia of Tapia LOS ANGELES. The buyer and the designer, who have built a good relationship over a long period of time, met for the first time. At the moment of meeting, Mr. Yagisawa looked both happy and nervous, while Mr. Tapia behaved as usual. This is a record of their encounter.
You two have maintained a shop-brand relationship for a long time, but this is the first time you have actually met. That was somewhat unexpected.
tapiaI knew about the "Cassidy Homegrown" store, but I didn't know what kind of store it was and who the buyers were. I am so glad to have met them today. It is very important for a brand like ours to have a store that buys with integrity for such a long period of time.
YagisawaI first heard about you from an article in a magazine. It was an article from 2000, when you were still young. At the time, you were making a collection of pants only. I was surprised to see that you were making your collection using a traditional tailoring shop called Chesterbury, and more importantly, I remember being very surprised to see that you were making a collection of only pants.
tapiaIn the 90's I was working in a vintage store in New York City. At the time, I was collecting 70's Italian pants, which I remade and wore myself. When I walked around town, I was often asked, "Where are those pants from? That was the beginning of my pants-only collection. I then went to Germany and after careful research, I presented my own collection in Paris.
An article from the 2000 issue of MR. HIGH FASHION. It describes Mr. Tapia's first collection that year, which consisted solely of pants. Mr. Yagisawa himself copied the article and brought it with him.
I think you were still working at "Harajuku Cassidy" at that time, but did you carry that pants collection?
YagisawaNo, not at that time. But I was very interested in Michael Tapia. A few years later, when I went to New York to buy, I discovered your collection at a store called "Jeffrey's." It was a really simple, fine button-down shirt. It was a really simple, high-quality button-down shirt. At first glance, I was attracted to them and felt that I wanted to carry them in my own store. That is how I came to carry them in my own store.
What do you find attractive about Tapia's clothes?
YagisawaTapia's clothes are wonderful basics. The designs are neutral and not exaggerated, but have an overwhelming quality that attracts people. The items themselves are basic, but they are extraordinary. I myself am a fan, and many of my customers also like Michael Tapia. Whenever I go shopping, I always try to buy so that I can sell out everything.
tapiaIt is important for the store and its customers to have a long term relationship. Just as you and we have had a good relationship for a long time.
YagisawaMy store has a wide range of customers, from the young to the elderly. Some come once a year, while others come every week. The location of Harajuku is one of the reasons why so many customers visit our shop. Among them, those who like Tapia's clothes seem to be looking for the "style" you create.
What do you mean by style?
YagisawaTapia's style is ageless and timeless. Some young people buy Tapia's clothes, and some customers in their 60s buy them, so they are very ageless. They are also timeless items that can be worn for a long time, without being limited by trends. And no matter how long they are worn, the quality is always the same.
YagisawaSeasonal designers are at the top of their game when they buy their clothes, and you can't wear them for a few years afterwards with the same feeling. But I want to wear what I buy for a long time. That's why the clothes you make are so attractive.
tapiaThank you very much for your kind words. Quality is really important to us, and we try to make the best products every season. Sewing, materials, parts, patterns. We do our best in every aspect. To do this, careful research is essential. It is also one of my design philosophies.
What items from Tapia Los Angeles are popular at Cassidy Homegrown?
YagisawaThe classic "Doheny Jean" is especially popular. It is like an introduction to Michael Tapia, and first-time customers usually buy it. The fit is so good that many customers say they will wear them the rest of the way home.
tapiaI'm wearing a pair of Doheny's. They have a special pattern on them. It has a special pattern, and the hip-to-waist ratio is unique. In a way, it may be breaking the theory of pants making, but that is the point of this fit. But that's the point of this fit.
YagisawaMany customers buy this item first, then a shirt, then a jacket, and so on and so forth. I myself get excited every time I visit an exhibition.
What do you think is the secret to always attracting as many people as Mr. Yagisawa just mentioned?
tapiaMy creations are fluid and emotional. As a designer, I try to reflect what I am feeling and interested in at any given time in my creations. We are constantly changing as we go about our daily lives, so if there is a secret, I think it lies in that.
tapia: That, and many designers are aware of the runway. They are concerned about how their designs will shine in the show. But not me. I am conscious of real life. I imagine people wearing my clothes walking into a bar or going to work. I think about how they feel in their daily lives, and how they feel when they wear my clothes.
What are you interested in now?
tapiaI am now returning to my roots in the United States. I became interested in the structure of American clothing. I needed to learn more about American clothing. To do this, I visited vintage warehouses and inspected old American and military clothing. I looked at the fabrics and sewing techniques, and looked for old styles.
tapiaI was motivated by the problems I encountered with production quality when I returned to the U.S. from Europe. People in England, Italy, and France were craftsmen who had a love for manufacturing. However, American factories do not have that feeling. For them, manufacturing is just a job, and efficient production is more important than quality. In such an environment, how can we produce high quality products? The just-completed next fall/winter collection was completed under the guidance of such American craftsmanship.
YagisawaI see. I am very excited to hear that. I am Japanese, so for me, America is something I long to be a part of. I first fell in love with Brooks Brothers, and gradually became interested in mass products. There was some workwear from Carhartt that was sewn incorrectly in the past. However, I find such mass-produced products with their messy workmanship fascinating. I see the miscellaneous quality of mass-produced items not as something inferior, but as something unique.
tapiaI used to really dislike that (laughs). (Laughs.) But recently I think it's important to view it as unique, as you say. I concentrated on looking at this collection from that perspective, and tried to convert the weak points into strong points.
How many items at Cassidy Homegrown are made in the U.S.A.?
YagisawaAbout 80% of all products are from the United States. This is because I have a longing for the U.S. and tend to favor American products. Recently, more and more customers are becoming particular about the country of origin. I would like to handle more American-made products, but it is not easy to do so nowadays. That is why I think Tapia's clothes are so valuable. No matter how good a designer's clothes are, you may be disappointed when you see the country of origin. Looking at your collection, I can see how great it is to make things in America.
tapiaIt is difficult to make good quality products in the U.S. today. Unfortunately, Americans themselves have lost interest in "made in the USA.
tapiaCan I ask you a question as well? Why do you think your customers choose this store among the many stores in Harajuku?
YagisawaMy customers often tell me this: "There are too many products in the big select shops. They say, "There are too many products in a big select store, and I don't know what to choose. But that is not the case at my store. The shop is small and has a limited amount of products, so I think it is easier for customers to make their selections. Also, we only carry items that we have actually worn and thought were really good. Since I sell them myself, I think it is easier to communicate with customers. In short, communication is easy.
tapiaDo you also give advice on customers' wardrobes?
YagisawaI may be overreacting when I say "advice," but I may be doing something similar. For customers who have been coming to the store for a long time, I remember what kind of things they have purchased at our store. The next time they come to the store, we try to choose clothes accordingly. If we know our customers' preferences and size trends in this way, we can form a good partnership with them.
tapiaIt's a good old-fashioned way to store. Because we are a small store, we can be more personal. It is difficult to establish such a relationship in a large store. It may be old fashioned, but in this day and age, that may be a modern style.
Now, conversely, is there anything you would like to ask Mr. Yagisawa?
YagisawaI wanted to ask him why he wanted to make a pants collection at Chesterbury, so I'm glad we were able to solve that problem. Actually, there was something more I wanted to ask, but I was so nervous that I forgot (laughs). But meeting Mr. Tapia in person like this made me feel more and more attracted to him.
tapiaI am also glad to know how Japanese customers feel and think. I think the charm of Japanese stores is that they are close to their customers. It was a great learning experience for me to know that the smaller the store, the more important it is. Thank you for the fun time I had. Thank you.