Reyn Spooner Three things you should know about Reyn Spooner by now.Vol.2 Reyn Spooner's role in Isetan Men's Building.
Summer has arrived. This is the second installment of a series of articles from Rainspooner, a brand born in Hawaii, the land of everlasting summer, and known as a synonym for Hawaiian shirts. This time, we introduce a collaboration item with "Essential Designs," which releases a special-order bag with the Yoshida Kaban Porter series every season. Mr. Nobutomo Shibata of the Isetan Men's Department Store, who was involved in the development of the bags as well as in the buying process, talks about the appeal of these items.
First of all, before asking about the background and reasons for buying the items in this issue, let us ask about the relationship between Isetan Men's Building and "Rainspooner. First of all, let us ask about the relationship between "Isetan Men's Building" and "Rainspooner".
Every season, we think about the composition of our items for the coming summer season. Casual shirts, short-sleeved shirts, and patterned shirts are what we call "midsummer items," and for the Men's Building 7th floor, aloha shirts are representative of these items. Aloha shirts have been an unwaveringly important point for casual buyers for generations.
In the process of merchandising our products, we are trying to figure out how we can continue to sell short-sleeved shirts in an attractive way for a long period of time, and "Rainspooner" continues to be at the center of this effort. Some years ago, we held an event called 'Aloha Paradise,' in which the men's department store and Rainspooner collaborated simultaneously.
The event was very intense, with domestic and international brands on each floor using spooner cloths to offer a variety of items.
Frankly speaking, there were times when I thought about quitting the business.
However, the Rain Spooner brand has had its ups and downs, and the number of items made in Hawaii has been decreasing. However, the Rain Spooner brand has had its ups and downs, and now there are fewer made-in-Hawaii items available.
Currently, Rain Spooner has a certified factory in Korea and is developing a modern fit line that is MADE IN KOREA, which is firmly approved by the home country of Hawaii, and is attracting new users in the Japanese market.
In between all of this, we had to think a little bit. We thought that, as the name "Authentic Casual" implies, Rainspooner should be "Made in Hawaii," or that the Lahaina Sailor pattern should be the most iconic, or that we should expand the future of the brand by holding "Aloha Paradise," but we were not able to make any new efforts. We had not been able to make any new efforts in our recent relationship with Lainspooner.
Therefore, we have been focusing on Hawaiian-made items, such as long-sleeved pullover shirts and other made-in-Hawaii items, in our purchasing volume. The interest in textiles, history, and the transition of tags from vintage to modern, make "Lainspooner" a highly collectible item.
It was a time when we were very concerned about the future sales channels for a brand that, if we had dug into it properly, would have been for enthusiasts. To be honest, there were times when I thought we might stop carrying the brand.
Not because it's trendy, not because it's selling.
The Isetan Men's Building, which has been a partner of the Rainspooner brand up to this point, including the holding of events throughout the entire building, has been a source of anguish for the brand.
I have been working with Rainspooner for quite some time, and I myself have known the brand for about 10 years. In the 7F category, which I am in charge of, one of the prerequisites for me to handle is how long we can communicate with the brand in the future.
We build a relationship of mutual trust based on a thorough understanding of the underlying quality and background of the product, not because it is trendy or sells well. Then, we make various special orders and hold events. This way of working has been passed down to the buyers on the 7th floor as a tradition.
Under these circumstances, the purchase of the items in collaboration with Rainspooner and Essential Designs was a good opportunity for us.
I felt that for the first time in a long time, we had an opportunity to expand the Rain Spooner brand to a new audience. The aloha shirt owes its birth to the Japanese, and while using a tropical pattern that has its roots in the aloha shirt, we are also collaborating with Porter, a global brand that represents Japan.
I found this combination very interesting as one possibility that tells the story of the next Rain Spooner. At the risk of sounding forward, what we can do as a department store representing Japan to some extent is to support new challenges.
If it would be useful for the future of the brand, I thought we should be proactive about it. That was my first thought.
What exactly did Mr. Shibata find attractive about this series?
'Actually, I had a look at a couple of things fairly early on. First of all, I thought it would be very nice to package the pineapple in monotone. There aren't many monotone patterns among the items that Rainspooner offers. There are many needs for black items, so I thought the pattern and color selection were very good.
Spooner cloth is essentially a cotton/polyester material, but it is properly PVC coated, and even though it is not water repellent, it is strong enough as a bag to properly handle sudden rain."
EDS×Reyn Spooner×TOTE BAG 29,160 yen
In the process of creating specific products, input from Mr. Shibata was also reflected.
For example, the bottoms of the backpacks and totes were initially all-over, just like the sacochets. The bottom of the boat is missing. In order to increase the functionality and strength of the bag, and also to tighten the whole design, I suggested making it black.
We talked about using a black tankard, but in the end we ended up using a PV coated outer fabric, which worked out well for the matching. Overall, the lineup consisted of large-sized, high-unit-price items, but in 2015, we were allowed to hold a "Porter" event on the stage of Isetan's main building.
Among the various hit items, the "Succoshes" were a hit that we, the buyers, had not imagined at all. This shape was not included in the lineup at first, but we proposed it to them. I think this item fulfills the requirements of today's mobile generation for the necessary capacity.
EDS×Reyn Spooner×SAKOCHE $14,040
EDS×Reyn Spooner×DAYBAG $45,360
EDS×Reyn Spooner×HELMET BAG 48,600 yen
Now that we are able to approach new users, how do you think it will be accepted by the existing heavy users?
The big sizes like backpacks and two-handles with deep gussets that can be used for travel have been very well received. We have a well-balanced lineup that can properly approach both new and existing fans.
I was curious to hear about Mr. Shibata's personal love for rain spooners.
I'm personally interested in the ...... Rainspooner tag."
I see. Mr. Shibata, I smell a strong man.
The oldest tag that I have seen on a rain spooner is called a "nude tag," which has a nipple design. I personally use it most on my board shorts, which I wear around town."
I think that boardshorts made by Rain Spooner are quite rare.
They are rarely seen, but they do exist." The reason why we don't carry many is because of the difference in the size of the so-called inner supporter. The sizes are different, so Japanese people tend to be too small for them (laughs).
In order for the Rain Spooner board shorts to look their most beautiful, you still need to have a bit of a belly to look cool. I have a personal bias that you have to have a more Hawaiian-like body shape to be able to wear them well (laughs).
From tag stories to rare items. Mr. Shibata's story continues.
My personal dream is to complete items for each tag age.
I have some collectors who give me items with nipples, but my next dream is to have a complete collection of items by tag age.
I felt as if I had not met a person in a long time who has a biased collector's mentality while being a buyer for one of Japan's leading department stores.
The role of a buyer in a department store is very much from a managerial perspective. Many of the people I work with are large companies such as major apparel companies and maison brands, so I am required to behave and have a mindset as a businessman.
This requires skills such as an MBA, the ability to read and understand fashion, and the ability to read the times. There are two types of people: those who have such a background, and those who simply like things, and have spent their younger years liking clothes more than eating three meals a day. I am completely in the latter category. I am in the category of endangered species (laughs).
Yes. Mr. Shibata, you are a completely endangered species (laughs).
The Endangered Species Network is becoming a niche, after all. I am in the position of a buyer, and on the other hand, there are people in the position of a producer. The creators are more knowledgeable and have more seniority in their careers, so there is a hierarchy of endangered species.
But for me, "Rain Spooner" is one of the tools to communicate and network with people I have come in contact with beyond my age, position, and role, or with people of the same age but with deeper knowledge.
Rain spooner is riding the global wave more and more, but I still hope that they will continue to produce collections that retain a local mindset.
To be more specific, button-down shirts with a collar are on the rise, but I personally think that if it is an aloha shirt, I would like to see a design that has a full open collar.