Three things you should know about rain spooners by now.Vol.03 A viewpoint from UNITED ARROWS. An encounter with the traditional Japanese culture of yukata.
The "Rainspooner" series is synonymous with Hawaiian shirts. In this third and final installment, we hear from Yoshihiro Moroda, Director of Men's Formal Wear at UNITED ARROWS LTD. The Hawaiian shirt is said to have originated from Japanese kimonos brought to Hawaii by the Japanese after World War II, but over time it was reborn as the "yukata" of Japanese culture. He talks about this "reunion," which can be considered both strange and inevitable.
There are similarities between British style and Japanese kimono.
-Before delving into this story, it is important to first understand Mr. Moroda's backbone. In fact, he was neither a Hawaii enthusiast nor interested in Japanese-style clothing, but rather a devotee of the English style.
various fieldsI have been in this business for more than 30 years, but I have been inclined toward the British from the very beginning.... I was originally involved with British brands, and after joining United Arrows, I was in charge of men's clothing. I had only "been to Hawaii before," and I had only seen my father wear kimono at home in the past, or had the opportunity to wear it at a wedding.
Morota-san is now completely addicted to wearing Japanese kimonos. How did it all start?
various fieldsI was assigned to work on yukata shortly after I joined United Arrows. At the time, I was an amateur who didn't even know how to fasten an obi, but when I put it on again, it didn't feel out of place at all. I felt right at home (laughs). At first, I thought it was just because I have Japanese DNA, but as I learned more and more about it, I got more and more into it....
-Why is that? The keywords are "classic" & "traditional".
various fieldsI felt that there were similarities between the British style I was advocating and Japanese kimono. The more I delved into the origins of the culture and the mindset of grooming, the more the dots connected and became a line.
As I expanded my hypothesis by comparing England and Japan, I came to realize that although they are completely different countries, there are many overlapping aspects at the root. In other words, it was precisely because I had such a foundation in British classics that I was able to realize the depth of kimono.
The sewing of yukata by Spooner Cross and the dyeing and sewing of yukata made of cotton are handled by Ibuki, a long-established company with a history of nearly 200 years in Kyoto. The quality is second to none.
Rainspooner" definitely goes well with yukata.
-Then he met Rain Spooner.
various fieldsOf course, I had known about it for a long time. Also, Brooks Brothers had made shirts using fabric from Lainspooner, and I was aware that it was a unique approach. I just knew about it as knowledge.
Some time later, I had another chance to be introduced to Lainspooner's fabrics through an acquaintance, and at that time I had a gut feeling. I had a gut feeling that it would definitely go well with yukata. It felt like fate.
To be honest, until then I never thought I would be making yukata with a foreign brand. I guess I was caught by surprise myself (laughs). (laughs) But I knew it was going to be interesting.
I knew that the clothes worn in that climate in Hawaii would definitely fit in summer in Japan, and while Hawaiian shirts are mainly inspired by nature, so are Japanese yukata. And both are traditional local wear. There are many similarities. Hawaii also has the Bon Odori dance (laughs).
It is a brand that proposes a lifestyle.
various fieldsI'm also very interested in things where the brand name is the name of the store. This is because it means that they are selling clothes, but more than that, they are proposing a lifestyle.
It may be a bit exaggerated, but I would say that I am proposing a way of life in which people can choose to do so. The same goes for "Rain Spooner. They continue to make things with history and tradition in a place called Hawaii, and propose styles. That's a great thing.
-What were the challenges in matching the yukata with the "rain spooner"?
various fields: There wasn't any. As the project progressed, the images kept expanding. Like how to express the world view of "Rain Spooner," we found that we could incorporate it into various items other than yukata, and more and more ideas were born. It was such an enjoyable process.
The enthusiasm of the staff for this project was also amazing. Seeing this, I was reminded of the greatness of the Lainspooner brand. That's why I was determined not to do anything that would betray their expectations.
Yukata made of schooner cloth really feel good," says Moroda. The obi is made of basho (Japanese banana tree) from Genbei Yamaguchi X, a long-established manufacturer and seller of obi, which has been in business for 280 years in Kyoto. Yukata ¥48,600, Obi ¥21,600
These zori are decorated with the Molokai Channel, a traditional pattern representing the Hawaiian sea. ¥19,440
This fan is decorated with the same "Molokai Channel" pattern as the zori. This one is made by Miyawaki Urasen-an, a long-established shop in Kyoto. The case is made of spooner cloth. ¥7,020
A basket bag with spooner cloth inside drawstring is also on standby. Goes great with the spooner cloth Hawaiian dress available in the women's line. ¥16,200
-The choice of fabrics is based on two axes: the traditions of "Rainspooner" and the traditions of Japan.
various fieldsWe had to use spooner cloths because we have a mission not to betray our "Rain Spooner" fans. In addition to this, yukata is a traditional Japanese garment, and we needed to have a line of yukata that suited the Japanese climate, so we also offer yukata made of natural materials (cotton) (*Spooner cloth is a polyester blend).
By the way, the yukata I am wearing today is from Spooner Cross, and it is quite nice. The fabric used for the reverse side is similar to Japanese "kasuri," or "kasuri," and has a nice, silky feel. I think I'm going to get addicted to it (laughs).
For the pattern, we chose the "Lahaina Sailor," which is a traditional Hawaiian motif and symbolic of "Rainspooner," as the centerpiece. Since yukata fabrics have always been based on nature motifs, there was no difficulty at all in matching the two. I really felt that the fabrics went well together.
We want people to feel familiar with yukata.
various fieldsI actually want people to take these yukata to all sorts of places and wear them. A yukata is something very familiar to Japanese people, but at the same time, it is a distant existence. It is, so to speak, an extraordinary thing.
Then, for example, you can wear it when you go on a trip to Hawaii, or you can take it with you as "my yukata" when you go on a trip to a hot spring resort in Japan. I believe that these yukata can be used in such a way. With this in mind, we have attached a kinchaku (purse) of the same pattern as the yukata so that it is easy to carry around.
Yes, I am often asked the question, "Is it possible to wear flip-flops with a yukata? I think that classic yukata look good with classic footwear... I had hoped to make a yukata that could be worn with flip-flops someday, and now I have. I had hoped to make a yukata that could be worn with flip-flops someday, and that has now come true.
Through this initiative, I hope that yukata will become more familiar to people, and that they will learn more about the appeal of "rain spooner". I think it would be quite fashionable to go to a summer festival or fireworks display wearing one of these.
