City Country City" is an anonymous brand that does not disclose its design team, but has been steadily increasing its presence. In this Series, we interview creators who have been close friends of City Country City since its establishment, in order to find out what the brand is really like. We will be looking into the contents of this mysterious brand from all angles.
This time, JOE, designer of "Surplus Research," joins us. We asked him about the recently released collaborative items, and his particulars about them.
It is a mix of Hong Kong, Australian and Japanese cultures.
First of all, I would like to know JOE's profile.
JOE:I was born in Sydney, Australia. My parents are Hong Kong residents. When I was young, I wanted to be a painter, but as soon as I started working, I started working in a Ralph Lauren store.
That is somewhat surprising.
JOE:Really? I think [Ralph Lauren] doesn't just make clothes, but expresses a kind of dream or story. I got a lot of inspiration and admiration from such a worldview.
From there, I became interested in the world of vintage, and often came to Japan to visit vintage stores. I was also attracted to "Double R.L.," so I went to New York to work at a local store, and from there I gradually worked my way up the ranks until I eventually became a designer.
That's quite a career. Did you join the Billionaire Boys Club after that?
JOE:I got the job at the Billionaire Boys Club in 2018, I think. I met Loic, the vice president of Billionaire Boys Club, when I was working at the store. We had been friends since then, and when I told him I was quitting Double R L, he invited me to join.
And now you are based in Tokyo.The following is a list of the most common problems with the
JOE:I came to Tokyo in 2023. When I was a child, I went to a Japanese school. So I was always exposed to and familiar with Japanese culture. My identity is a mix of Hong Kong, Australian, and Japanese culture.
Have you been working as a freelance designer since you came to Japan?
JOE:Yes, I am. I have been approached by several brands to work as a designer.
Did you have connections to Japan?
JOE:I had been in contact with the design team at CCC for a long time, and I also had connections with people in various scenes in Tokyo. From there, the circle of exchange grew and grew.
It is a kind of self-expression through various media.
How did Surplus Research start?
JOE:I started simply because I wanted to create something I liked. I think it was the year 2022. First, I made caps, and then I designed earphones. Basically, those were the only two things I did. Surplus Research is a brand that embodies my ideas and visions.
What is your vision?
JOE:Hmmm...it's hard to explain in words. I think I can't verbalize it, so I express myself through objects. It's like self-expression through various media, such as Instagram and online stores, not to mention the products themselves and their details. I like music, outdoor activities, and sports, so I mix and match my interests into my products.
JOE:For example, I am a runner and I love records. So earphones and hats are indispensable tools in my life.
It is unique that you express yourself not through clothes but through accessories.
JOE:We haven't even made T-shirts yet (laughs). (Laughs.) But this is more interesting, isn't it? How much value it has for customers is a mystery, but I love making things anyway, and I put my passion into it.
The charm of small brands is that they can make coincidences interesting.
How did the collaboration with CCC begin?
JOE:Drinking!
I see, I can sort of picture it (laughs).
JOE:I was having a drink with the team from CCC in front of a convenience store when the idea came to me. I have a lot of respect for them. So we decided to do it. It was just a feeling. At that time, I decided to use colors inspired by convenience stores. For example, the blue of the flange came from Lawson. The size adjuster is 7-Eleven orange.
The cap is based on the "Surplus Research" cap, isn't it?
JOE:Yes, I do. This is my style.
What are you particular about?
JOE:This is made of an accumulation of fine details. The fabric is water-repellent nylon with a film. The eyelets are made of metal this time, but we sometimes use stitches inline. What I like about this collaboration is the patches. I'm attracted to the fact that they look a little handmade and not perfect.
You mean you did it on a dare?
JOE:It just so happens that the factory we asked for finished it in this kind of mood. Of course, we dictate the specifications for fonts, reflector threads, etc., but the quality is the factory's. This time, it turned out very tasteful. I enjoy such coincidences. Of course, there are times when it doesn't feel right, but this time I got into the mood.
The fun part of design is the dialogue with the factory. As a designer, I can direct the direction, but you never know what kind of thing will be created until you try. I am attracted to that kind of accidental creation. It is possible to specify everything in detail, but I think the charm of small brands lies in the fact that they can develop from chance into unique creations without doing so.
By the way, the brand logo of "Surplus Research" is embroidered on the back style, isn't it? What is the meaning behind this?
JOE:I actually found this logo in an archival logo collection from the 60s. I think it was a logo for a so-called administrative-like application related to European agriculture. I simply liked the shape and sampled it. I think the interesting thing about a logo like this is that it can be given a completely new and different meaning. It was originally a logo for agriculture, but it has a very organic design and a bit of a mountain feel to it. It also looks like the letter "S".
It also looks like the Chinese character for "mountain.
JOE:Yes, yes. And also for the mark of the hot springs (laughs).
There is friendship, there is understanding, and that's how it was born.
You mentioned earlier that you have a lot of respect for CCC.
JOE:I feel strong energy. The brand is also very impressive. I had heard about the idea before they started the brand, but now their worldview is expanding rapidly. Their collaborations with artists they respect, such as Ronnie Liston Smith and WAR, show what an energetic brand CCC is. I think it's really cool.
What do you think when you actually see the products?
JOE:The graphics are just powerful. It is based on music, but it is not just a merchandising tool, but it is also a passion. I think that is very important. I feel a sense of being rooted in the street, or rather, I feel a strong sense of passion.
When you meet with the design team, what do you usually talk about?
JOE:We have a lot in common: fashion, design, music, and products. We have a lot in common. We always want to do something with the will for the future. That's why we are always inspired. We always have a good time when we meet. I don't think you can make many friends like that in your life.
Looking back on this collaboration, what do you think?
JOE:It was a very nice collaboration. You can actually see people wearing the caps on the street, and it really gives a good feeling. I am proud of this product. The essence of this product is the partnership between CCC and myself. There is friendship and understanding, and that is how this product was born. It is truly irreplaceable.
Finally, what are your expectations for CCC in the future?
JOE:We want to have music parties together. It would be great if more connections could be made through that.
JOE
Born in Sydney, he started his career at Ralph Lauren and became a designer at Double R L in 2016. He started his career at Ralph Lauren, became a designer at Double R L in 2016, and served as Creative Director at Billionaire Boys Club in 2018 before moving to Tokyo in 2023. He currently works as a freelance designer and designs for his own project, Surplus Research.
Instagram:@surplus.research
Photo_Kazunobu Yamada
Text_Yuichiro Tsuji
