Can outerwear with GORE-TEX® fabrics by Daiwa and Journal Standard Relume become a new winter staple?

The initiative by "JOURNAL STANDARD relume" and "DAIWA" seems to be well received. The two companies have been developing products that combine the fashionable American casual look and the functionality of fishing-specific products. The products that have been created by mixing the characteristics of the two seem to be hitting the right spot with people who love things. In addition, this season, outerwear using "GORE-TEX® fabrics" has been introduced and is gaining more and more momentum. What is the appeal of such items? In this issue, we have three key persons to find out the secret to the popularity of these newly born garments.

Photo_Sara Hashimoto
Text_Tsuji
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

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It is padded for warmth and has a "Gore-Tex® fabric" outer fabric.

From left: Mr. Hatayama of Journal Standard Relume, Mr. Nakatsu of Daiwa, and Mr. Hirai of GORE-TEX® Brand.

When did the collaboration between "Daiwa" and "Journal Standard Relume" start?

Nakatsu: It started four years ago. Daiwa had not originally been involved in this kind of project with industries other than fishing, but when we met Journal Standard Relume through a chance encounter, we felt that it would be a good collaboration for both parties, so we started the project.

Hatayama: We have released some kind of item every season since then. However, this is the first time for us to make outerwear that can be used in midwinter.

JOURNAL STANDARD relume × DAIWA Versatile Winter Jacket ¥39,600 each

I've heard that the response from customers has been very positive since the project started.

Hatayama: In addition to customers who are familiar with "Daiwa," "Journal Standard Relume" has many stores in shopping centers and is well received by people who have not had contact with the brand before. That is one of the reasons why we are able to continue to do this every season.

Nakatsu: Thanks to your support, we are now well established. That's why we decided to make a solid outerwear this time.

What kind of item is this?

Nakatsu: The base is an outerwear that Daiwa offers in its inline line. It is an entry-level model among our brands, but it can be used in actual fishing situations and is our most popular item. It is filled with padding for high thermal protection, and the outer fabric is made of GORE-TEX® fabric.

Nakatsu: Fishing is a really demanding activity, and warmth is a lifeline. Furthermore, when traveling by boat, every time the wind speed increases by one meter, the body temperature drops by one degree. It is said that when a fishing boat travels at about 20 knots, the temperature changes by 10 degrees, so it is important to ensure proper warmth on the sea.

Therefore, the concept of "waterproofing and windproofing," not to mention protection from cold and heat, is also important.

Nakatsu: That's right. Coating materials such as urethane have high waterproofing and windproofing properties, but they do not allow for breathability, which leads to a poor environment inside the garment. GORE-TEX® Fabrics are not only waterproof, but also have excellent moisture permeability. This is a big advantage in that it can keep the wearer warm while maintaining the environment inside the garment.

Hirai: This is a kit to visualize the moisture permeability of "GORE-TEX® Fabrikus." We put ordinary vinyl in one glass and our fabric in a bag on the other side. When you pour hot water into it, do you see that only the "GORE-TEX® Fabrikus" side of the glass is foggy?

Hirai: This is a state where only the hot water vapor is permeating through, making it both waterproof and moisture permeable. If hot air is not allowed to escape in this way, the inside will become more and more uncomfortable due to condensation. Human sweat also stays inside, so in a cold environment, the risk of hypothermia, etc., goes up and up.

While the GORE-TEX® fabric provides waterproofing and breathability, are there any other features or details that are unique to "Daiwa"?

Nakatsu: We also adopted a pattern that does not interfere with fishing movements. It is three-dimensional and very easy to move around in. We have also adopted a watertight zipper, and the hood has a detail called a "rain return," which allows water to escape to the side when the hood is on.

JOURNAL STANDARD relume × DAIWA Versatile Winter Jacket ¥39,600 each

So you have adjusted them to urban specifications through a special order from "Journal Standard Relume"?

Hatayama: That's right. While keeping the pattern that Mr. Nakatsu mentioned for ease of movement, we changed the silhouette. We shortened the length and widened the width of the body to create a rounded form. We also arranged the embroidery to make it look more fashionable with a color scheme.

Nakatsu: Overall, you are comfortable with it.

Hatayama: We also wanted to use the "GORE-TEX®" embroidery as part of the design, so we shifted the embroidery that was originally on the sleeves to the back, and we also paid attention to details.

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The brand, the factory, and Gore work together to protect quality.

As you mentioned earlier, another important point is the use of "GORE-TEX® fabrics" in the new product, while arranging the functions that can be used in harsh actual fishing situations in an urban manner. What is the appeal of this fabric?

Hirai: Currently, the "GORE-TEX® Brand" is in the process of switching entirely to fluorine-free fabrics. The fabric we are using this time is also a next-generation fabric, and it employs an ePE (stretched polyethylene) membrane. It is thinner and lighter than conventional materials, making it more supple and comfortable to wear on the street. Therefore, it goes very well with padded garments like this one.

Do you mean that you are constantly developing while anticipating the times?

Hirai: Next year will mark the 50th anniversary of the launch of the "GORE-TEX® Brand. As a materials manufacturer, we are developing various businesses, but in order to quickly respond to regulations in the areas of fashion and outdoors, we have been conducting research and development of new materials for more than 10 years. Our headquarters and research facilities are located in the U.S., but we also have a development team in Japan that is working with domestic manufacturers to develop outer and lining fabrics.

There are many fabric manufacturers claiming high waterproof and water-repellent properties, but what is the unique appeal of GORE-TEX® products?

Hirai: "GORE-TEX® products" are based on three basic performance characteristics: high durability waterproofness, breathability, and windproofness. We are proud of the durability of our products, which is stronger than other waterproof/breathable materials. Even after washing, the performance does not deteriorate and maintains its initial value for a long period of time.

Nakatsu: Quality control is very thorough.

Hirai: That's right. We also conduct quality tests on waterproofness and moisture permeability of the final products to ensure the quality. No other material manufacturer has such a scheme.

The term "GORE-TEX® fabrics" is used to describe a wide variety of fabrics with different characteristics. Brands and manufacturers select the right fabrics from among these fabrics to create their products.

I have heard that there are only a limited number of brands and sewing factories that can handle GORE-TEX® products.

Hirai: We have a licensing agreement with our partner brands. We have a system in place whereby we cannot sell fabrics to brands or manufacturers that do not have a licensing agreement. And sewing factories that produce garments must be approved by us before they can sew our fabrics. We audit them not only for their technical skills, but also for social compliance and other social perspectives. If brand logos and materials walk alone without this, it will be difficult to ensure the quality of the final product. Therefore, we have a system in which partner brands, factories, and we work together to protect quality.

Nakatsu-san and Hatayama-san, what do you find attractive about GORE-TEX® products?

Nakatsu: I originally worked in the fashion industry, but after joining Daiwa, I came to appreciate the excellence of "GORE-TEX® products" even more strongly. Even if I use them quite roughly, they stand up to the elements. Of course, you have to do maintenance such as washing, but it is far more durable than other fabrics.

Hatayama: I agree with Mr. Nakatsu's opinion, and I can still use a jacket I got more than 10 years ago. I think that's because they are so durable.

How does such durability come about?

Hirai: The first is that the membrane is strong. Most waterproof films are made of a single material, polyurethane, which is subject to hydrolysis. In the case of GORE-TEX® Membrane, the conventional material is derived from fluorocarbon resin, which is almost impervious to degradation. On the other hand, the new next-generation type is a composite material based on stretched polyethylene called ePE, and research has proven that it is extremely durable. So the new outerwear can be used for a long time.

Nakatsu: But it needs maintenance to make it last longer.

Hirai: Yes, that's right. If the product is not maintained, it will affect its longevity as a product. Sebum stains, perspiration, cosmetics, and sunscreen can leave residue on the fabric and seam tape, which can cause the fabric to peel, so we recommend frequent washing.

I thought it was fine to do laundry at home.

Hirai: It is fine. However, whether to machine wash or hand wash depends on the product, so please check the quality label. Basically, "GORE-TEX® Fabrics" are subjected to severe washing endurance tests before being proposed to manufacturers, and only those that pass the tests are released to the world. Our lab in the U.S. has a washing room with dozens of washing machines, where new fabrics are subjected to washing hundreds of times before being proposed.

Nakatsu: I have also seen the surprisingly severe tests you have conducted. I thought it was too much. I thought it was too much (laughs).

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The story of the sea to the city is also palpable.

What kind of fashion do you propose for this item at Journal Standard Relume?

Hatayama: The key point of this item is that it can be worn in minimal sizing, so if you tighten the drawcord at the hem and match it with wide pants, you will be able to wear it in a trend-conscious way.

Nakatsu: The padding gives it volume and a more current silhouette. This project uses "GORE-TEX® Fabrics" with a low sheen, so the jacket is not the only thing that stands out.

Hatayama: Outerwear with this kind of silhouette is often difficult to move around in, but when you try it on, you will notice that you can move your shoulders without stress. Arms can be raised and lowered smoothly, and the hem is not pulled upward.

Hirai: What kind of camouflage is this?

Nakatsu: We regularly produce original camouflage patterns at "Daiwa," and this one is a seaweed pattern with sea weed.

Hatayama: This pattern is doing well in the store. It's a graphic that didn't seem possible. Generally, camo has a strong military color and inevitably becomes masculine, but this one looks smart and fashionable.

Hirai: Conventional outdoor wear has been from the mountains to the city, but this time the flow is from the sea to the city, and I can feel that kind of story.

Will you continue these efforts in the future?

Nakatsu: I would like to continue to do so. While we create new products every season that are unique to "Daiwa," we are also starting to produce products that have become established as standard items. I hope to further update both of these axes together with Journal Standard Relume.

Hatayama: While continuing our efforts, I hope we can continue to challenge ourselves to make even more unique proposals to our customers.

Hirai: As the "GORE-TEX® Brand," we are very happy to be able to offer our products to so many people thanks to this initiative. We are looking forward to seeing what kind of items will be created in the future.