1st
God hands and divine power.
Burberrys Cotton Poplin summer coat
Hello, my name is Tomoyuki Tanaka, FPM. It's been 40 years since I first fell in love with vintage clothing. I am truly honored to have the opportunity to write this article about vintage clothing. HOUYHNHNM's is a media in which "Vintage Summit," a series of talks by leading Japanese Vintagers, is serialized, and I would like to take the honor of being the last one to write about it. . Please, everyone, take it easy.
The first article in this Series is about Burberry's coats, which have been heating up in the vintage market recently, and also about their thin summer coats.
There is a famous Japanese vintage picker, Mr. K, who lives in Paris, and people call him "The Last Samurai", perhaps because of his silver hair tied back and his walking stick, which he always carries (because he has a little leg problem), as if it were a sword. People call him "The Last Samurai".
He is a god-hand who has rummaged through hundreds of thousands of pieces of vintage clothing all over Europe, and has picked out hundreds of treasures, including rare details, from among them. Whenever I visit Paris, I always ask him to accompany me on my second-hand clothes shop tours, and last June, when I was in Paris on a DJ assignment, I had the pleasure of going on a second-hand clothes shop tour with him.
On the bus ride to the thrift store, I confided in him that I was looking for a summer coat in a fabric like a thin typewriter or poplin, like a vintage " Burberry " shirt, which I am sure exists, but which I have never seen in a thrift store. He replied that he had never seen such a coat before, even though he is a God Hand.
. But miracles do happen, don't they? I arrived at a thrift shop in Les Halles just after we had talked about this, and I easily found a summer coat by "Burberry. Was it a trick of the vintage clothing gods? My divine power had surpassed my god-hand. At that moment, the Last Samurai looked as if he was ready to commit seppuku (ritual suicide).
Burberry, founded in 1856 in the United Kingdom, is a long-established manufacturer with a triple royal warrant, a proof of being a royal warrant holder. Burberry invented wool gabardine, tie-locken coats, trench coats, and other materials and designs that have had a profound influence on the history of clothing, making it popular throughout the world. As you all know, the Tylocke Coat was also produced under license in Japan, but the vintage market today is limited to coats manufactured in England or France, where the brand was licensed, before the 1980s.
The collection will be based on the standard popular cotton and polyester blend beige and light khaki Balmacaan (stainless steel) coats and trench coats, but rare designs such as tie-locken coats and riders (belted Balmacaan), and rare colors such as black, navy blue, and iridescent blue will be more prized. Individual pieces in rare colors such as black, navy blue, and iridescent are more highly prized. Furthermore, since there were many store special orders and individual orders, there are many small differences in details, which makes them interesting. Among them, "single sleeve," "cotton 100," "made in France," "with liner," "Irish tweed," and so on, enthusiasts and dealers express the rarity like a game of mahjong, and the more the game, the higher the value and the price. For more information on this madness, please refer to the following article.Vintage Summit 6Please refer to Mr. Konno of "NEXUSⅦ." and Mr. Abe of "BEAMS" for their clear explanations in the "How to make a good impression" section of the website.
Speaking of [Burberry]'s coats, there is a strong image of winter clothes such as wool gabas, thick cotton, cotton poly, tweed, and loden wool, and even spring coats made of comparatively light materials are rare in the second-hand market. But a summer coat, which can be worn like a shirt, is even rarer. Well, spring and summer coats are not limited to "Burberry" but are still a fashionable and crazy item now and in the past, so it is only natural that they are rare.
70's-80's Burberrys Cotton Poplin summer coat
This Balmacaan coat by Burberry was found at Les Halles. Compared to the conventional coat, this one is very light in appearance and comfort.
This summer Balmacaan coat was manufactured in England in the 1970s and 1980s using a slightly taut but very thin, high-density cotton poplin fabric. It appears to have been ordered by LODENFREY, a high-end department store in Munich and Zurich.
The tag around the neck bears the familiar logo. The branding differs from the current version, with "Burberrys" and an "S" at the end. The name "LODENFREY," which placed the order, appears at the bottom of the tag.
A COTTON 100% tag will be attached to the inside of the left front. As you can see, it is a one-piece lightweight garment.
It is made of a single piece of unlined fabric with only a double layer around the collar, the front facing, and the slacks of the pockets, and only the back fabric is attached. The extremely lightweight fit makes it comfortable to wear even in the summer, if not on days of extreme heat.
Because it is thin, it does not become bulky even when the sleeves are rolled up. It can be worn as if it were a shirt.
. Unfortunately, the armholes are not the popular one-piece sleeve. However, the voluminous silhouette and the fit of the shoulders are details of single-sleeved garments, which are highly prized in winter wear, but in the case of this summer coat, the tightness around the sleeves makes it suitable for rolling up. Moreover, even when rolled up many times, it does not show any volume at all, just like a thin shirt.
Only the back of the collar is decorated with the familiar Nova check.
To be honest, the condition is not good. The fabric on the sleeves and collar are frayed and cut. . It is not as robust as winter coats, which is probably the reason why it is rare in the vintage market. . However, this ragged roughness can be said to be a taste.
. A figure walking down a back alley in Paris. The deep center vent swayed in the breeze between the buildings.
I was so happy to have this coat that a friend captured this miraculous shot of my back as I wore it the same day I bought it and headed out for an evening dinner. Leaving aside the model, isn't the coat quite elegant as it soars lightly in the Parisian cityscape, impregnated by the wind?
However, he must have been very disappointed that I found this coat. Two days later, at another Parisian thrift store, the Last Samurai also found a Burberry summer coat. The persistence of a true samurai. Although it was a slightly thicker cotton/poly blend. As one would expect from a god-hand man, he was able to avoid committing seppuku. He was able to avoid committing seppuku.
PROFILE
Born in 1966 in Kyoto, Japan, he is a DJ and music producer active in Japan and abroad. He has experience as a MD for a major apparel company and as a magazine editor, and has a deep knowledge of all things vintage, including clothing, books, records, watches, audio, and cars. A true Vintager at heart.
www.fpmnet.com
