Lecture 3: Michihiko Kurihara
. I have the impression that it is more like a "G-jan" than a first or second jacket.

What was the first third type for Mr. Kurihara and what was his impression of it?
chestnut fieldI got my first "70505 E" when I was 15. At that time, even a second pair that had faded to a scuff was usually 100,000 yen, and for me at that time, the price was out of my reach. I liked the Ivy style from that time, and at one time I also collected white Levi's® such as satin "940," piqué "941," and Katsuragi "840. . I still have such an Ivy-like image of the third. Personally, I have a stronger impression of the so-called "G-janes" than the first or the second.
Kurihara's Pick up_01

70505 E
chestnut fieldMy first one is "70505 E" with embroidery. There are not a few jackets with rodeo type chain stitch embroidery in other brands, but I thought "70505" was quite rare.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)This is rare.
chestnut fieldI usually wear a 38, and this one is a 42, but I think it's a good choice. The arms are thick, and they look rather unfashionable, and if I were to wear all vintage clothes, they would certainly be too tight, but if I wear them with thin pants that are not vintage, I think they will go well with them.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Indeed . . and the embroidery itself is cool, too. However, it seems that embroidered items are not worth much nowadays.
Fujiwara:Yes, that's right. It is true that many customers used to be more appreciative of embroidered items, but now they say, "(The embroidery) is already there...".
section (of an orange, etc.)Personally, I'm still grateful for some things.
In the last Vintage Summit 5, Mr. Kurihara mentioned that "70505 E" was extremely cheap in Japan for a while," how is the current situation?
chestnut fieldWell, I think that about that time was the bottom price. Now, prices are gradually rising again, along with popularity. However, from our point of view, the prices were too low back then.
Fujiwara:. yes, because there was a time five or six years ago when the price was less than $10,000.

section (of an orange, etc.)How much is "70505 E" now in the US?
chestnut field(I often see darker ones at thrift stores for around $150 to $200.
Fujiwara:. Personally, I feel that it is being reevaluated, especially in Japan. . I don't have the sense that it is still so popular overseas.
chestnut fieldIt is true that in the U.S., the "70506" (successor to the 70505) with handwarmer pockets and loose silhouettes from the 80's onward are popular. I'm talking in the context of Justin Bieber and the like. . Well, I think "70506" can be called "vintage" as well.
section (of an orange, etc.)So what if it was dead stock in Japan?
Fujiwara:If it came with a flasher, it would be about 79,800 yen?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)What, it's gone up that much?
Fujiwara:It's the G-jan boom, after all. To put it a bit crudely, while coveralls and work jackets have been on the decline for the past few years, demand has shifted to G-jeans, which had been out of the forefront for some time.
chestnut field. It means that there is a trend toward short lengths, like the MA-1s of recent years.
Kurihara's Pick up_02

557 E
chestnut fieldThe second is the "557 E". It has been with me since I was 20 years old when I first told you about it, and although it is small now, for some reason I have not been able to part with it. As the name suggests, a trucker jacket is a symbol of blue-collar clothing, but I personally think of it as more elegant, like an ivy jacket. Nowadays, the long-length "558" is probably more useful, but when I got this jacket, the "557" was more orthodox, and I wore it with an oxford B.D. shirt, which was a perfect size.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)You certainly have an Ivy impression (to Mr. Kurihara).
chestnut fieldBecause of my lack of education, I admire him as much as anyone else (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)(Laughs) . Don't you want the same model in the size you can wear now?
chestnut fieldNow, I would prefer the "70505" because I would like a little more length. . I think the "557" is best worn just right by a thin person, so I would prefer the "557". However, just as there have been many big changes in demand, including sizing, in the 20 years since I got it, there may come a time when I want to wear it just right again, so I keep it on hand.

Fujiwara:As I mentioned earlier, this is the "O" button, and the fact that you have an "O" that you bought when you were 20 years old and that hardly ever shows up, is indeed a strong pull, Kuri-kun.
chestnut fieldI didn't care about that part at all (laughs).
Kurihara's Pick up_03
3rd TYPE SUEDE JACKET
chestnut field. The third is a four-pocket suede jacket. The third type of suede jacket is the most major one from the '60s using rough suede, and I think it looks the coolest, but this one is easier to wear now in terms of length and other sizing.
section (of an orange, etc.)Around the '70s?

chestnut fieldYes . I know there are mixed opinions on the handwarmer pockets.
section (of an orange, etc.)Personally, I think I prefer two pockets. I have had it imprinted on me by many of my seniors (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)But as far as this model is concerned, it's no longer a rough suede. The stripping of the arms is totally different.
chestnut fieldThis one has a slightly sharper body and the shoulders are slightly higher. The body is slightly sharper and the shoulders are slightly higher, so the range of motion is wider.
section (of an orange, etc.)I guess it means that they have evolved from the rough suede, which has a different pile for each part, which is one of the charms of the rough suede, but also a weak point depending on how it is used, to a smoother, more even look.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, that's right. As a result of improving the perfection of the product, the texture of the suede was unified.

Fujiwara:But you don't actually see these four pockets more than the rough suede.
chestnut fieldBut they are not expensive, and I bought one for sale at first, but it was not worth the price, so I kept it for myself. Well, I think of it as a completely different thing from rough suede in the first place, but I really don't care that much about the presence or absence of handwarmer pockets, even for the third type in general.
section (of an orange, etc.)Well, more and more people will be like that from now on.
chestnut fieldAs a seller, I hope so (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)By the way, what did you wear today?
chestnut fieldThis is "70505 1051 E" in white denim.
section (of an orange, etc.)So it's the Big E?
chestnut fieldYes . Apart from the white Levi's® like pique and Katsuragi that I mentioned earlier, this is probably the first model using so-called white denim.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Are there pants for this?
chestnut fieldProbably not. . like corduroy, this is another model that has slowly started to increase in value over the past few years. . I have a feeling that there may or may not be one every few years.

section (of an orange, etc.)How much would you put on it?
Fujiwara:To be honest, it's kind of a win-win situation if you put it on, now, isn't it? There are really only a few of them. A decade ago, "940 E" and "941 E" would have been more appreciated, but nowadays there are far fewer of these, and many people are looking for them because they are easier to wear. Depending on the store, I think some places are putting around 49,800 yen on them.