PROFILE
In 2022, he opened the select store "BOUTIQUE" in Kita-Aoyama, Tokyo, and in 2024, he released his first fashion brand "FOUNDOUR". In 2024, he released his first fashion brand "FOUNDOUR". He is involved in a wide range of activities, including supervision of various brands and labels.
PROFILE
After working in factories, developing fabrics, sales, and production, he started his own brand "blurhms" and "blurhms ROOTSTOCK" in 2011. ROOTSTOCK). He handles everything from material development to design with the themes of "comfort," "ageing," and "high-quality everyday clothing.
PROFILE
After working as a buyer at the select store "n°44" and after several other activities, in 2016 he launched "REPRODUCTION OF FOUND] in 2016. He currently leads the brand as director and designer. The brand features products that reconstruct past military items in a modern way.
A pair without compromise, arrived at after meticulous and careful work.
-The first collaboration between the three artists in about five years.previous workThe finished product has a different tension from that of the previous one, but I feel that it is filled with everyone's personality. Can you tell us what you think of the finished product?
Kaneko: This is actually the first time I've seen the finished product. I heard that it is based on the first back German, and it is true that when you look at the details up close, you think, "Oh, it's the back," but at a quick glance, it is a very beautiful leather shoe. There's none of the clunkiness that is characteristic of German trainers.
-I see that this is the first time you have seen these shoes. If that is the case, who came up with the idea for these shoes and what was the process?
Murakami: It is my sole discretion (laughs).
All: (Laughter)
Murakami: Of course, we did not create it on our own. It was Mr. Kaneko's idea, so before proceeding, I asked him, "Is it OK if I make something like this? He readily agreed. So we started with this as a sample.
The prototype back German, the predecessor of this work, was made of grained leather.
Murakami: We started out with the idea of a tennis cupsole instead of a military cupsole. So I first consulted with Mr. Kamieda.
Upper branches: That was about a year after we talked about making multi-military shoes, so about four years ago now.
Murakami: I think it was the first time. After that, I only wore them myself and left the mass production for a while.... Then, as the months passed, I decided to finally make a move, and I went to see Mr. Kiko with this prototype. I went to see Mr. Kaneko with this prototype. I went to see Mr. Kaneko with this prototype, and when I asked him about the sole, his immediate response was, "You definitely need a tennis cup sole.
This new edition. The sole was changed to a tennis sole developed in Spain in the 1970s.
INSIDE-OUT GERMAN TRAINER HORSEHIDE
¥39,600
In honor of the previous work, inverted letters are also printed on the insole of this work.
-How do you feel when you actually try them on?
Kaneko: They are very nice! I feel like it's easier to wear than my normal ones...are you changing the wood pattern as well?
Upper branches: The sole is different, and the wood shape is slightly wider.
Kaneko: German trainers have an image of "rolling" when you wear them, but these are nice and stable. I wonder if the change to a cup sole has something to do with it. And the luster. German trainers you see at thrift stores are usually of poor quality, or give a poor impression. Of course, that can be a good thing, but this one has none of that, and it looks like good leather from the outside.
Upper branches: We use Italian horsehide, which we don't usually use at Reproduction of Found. I had been interested in this leather shop for a long time, but I couldn't find anything that would fit inline, and I wasn't able to make a good proposal, so it was difficult for me to see it in the light of day.
-The time has finally come, he said.
Upper branches: Yes, I am. I thought Mr. Murakami would cook it well. I am happy to be able to unveil this leather.
Kaneko: I am sure that making the most of this leather is not the same as just putting it on something that "exists. I feel that the power of this leather is maximized by Mr. Murakami's very fine-tuned design when I see the actual product. This pair would never have come out the way it did if I had done it myself, and I think it was only possible because of Mr. Murakami's unique perspective as a designer.
-Can you tell us about the specific details of the design adjustments you made?
Murakami: The big thing is the distance between the laces (lace stays). This is narrower than usual.
From the back, Reproduction of Found's inline, the old Ura-German, the prototype worn by Mr. Murakami, and the new Ura-German. You can see that the lace stay width is obviously narrower.
Kaneko: Yes, this slimness is really good! It's obvious when you compare them, but when you wear them, this slimness stands out even more. I was thinking, "German trainers look so smart. I mean, you can even do that!
Upper branches: We had to rebuild all the molds for this.
-As expected...they are very enthusiastic. The shoe tan looks a little different too.
Murakami: The regular ones tended to sag down as they were worn in. We were concerned about this, so we designed them to be longer than normal. I also wanted a three-dimensional feel between the side seams, so I had urethane foam inserted.
Kaneko: If you don't put it in, it will just look flat with stitches, right?
Murakami: The leather is applied to the back, so it does show a little, but I wanted a little more fullness. The leather is a little tougher than the original.
-Is it common practice to put urethane foam in leather shoes?
Upper branches: No, I don't (laughs).
Kaneko: NIKE's "Cortez" has a cushion-like material that gives it a three-dimensional effect, right?
Upper branches: When it's fabric, I often put it in, it depends on the model. I have been using 5mm urethane foam, but the leather is hard and I honestly didn't think I would see much change.
Murakami: Surprisingly, it came out right.
Kaneko: This will probably become more pronounced as I wear them.
-There really is a lot of attention to detail.
Murakami: The rest is side mackay.
When you say -Side McKay...?
Upper branches: Usually, the upper and sole are glued together and that is the end of the process, but in this case, the upper and sole are then sewn together. This is called "side makkai," and while it increases durability, it is a bit of a hassle for the factory...and a risky process, so it is often not done. As I have said many times before, this is hard horsehide (laughs).
Murakami: The shoelaces are also waxed (laces soaked in wax).
-The change to waxed laces has advantages in terms of durability, of course, but I feel that the vintage-like texture and the elegance of dress shoes coexist and have a significant impact on the look and feel of the shoes.
Kaneko: This is...once again, a really different level, isn't it? In my work as a buyer, I have felt that there is an overwhelming difference between a special order from a buyer and a special order from a designer.
Upper branches: But Kaneko-san's special order has a boldness that is wonderful, though.
Kaneko: Perhaps it is because I don't know them that I am able to do as I please. I don't think I would ever be able to achieve this level of attention to detail. This is linked to the way Brahms creates things, isn't it? I feel a strange affinity with the clothes.
Kaneko: For example, in the past (old German behind the scenes), it would look a little strange if it were placed among the clothes of "Brahms". It looks as if someone else has done it. But with this new work, there is no such feeling at all, and it has a sense of unity as if it were the entire collection brand from top to bottom.
-How about you, Mr. Murakami, after receiving such a message from Mr. Kaneko?
Murakami: I am grateful for that. I believe that many of the things I create are difficult to convey.
Kaneko: Yes, I think many of Murakami-san's creations only convey about 40 out of 100.
Murakami: We clean up the back of the fabric that cannot be seen at a glance, and depending on the item, we produce the fabric from the system. There are many things we do, but we don't say them openly. Or rather, I am not good at communicating.
Kaneko: But I'm sure they think it's boorish to tell people about it. It is the same for all craftspeople. It's an aesthetic of not saying anything.
Upper branches: But Murakami-san is one of the best talkers (laughs).
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