Dendropanax trifidus (species of flowering plant)Compared to the rest of the world, Japanese fashion is characterized by a mix of styles, which is one of its "uniqueness. People find it interesting to dress down or dress up casually. I think it would be good if we could do that in a straightforward manner. I think that if my own dress style and Ogi's street-style style are combined, it will look just like that. I thought it would be interesting to create my own style and let Ogi take care of the street style aspects, such as graphics, that I cannot do myself. But before that, it was very difficult to know what to focus on when considering the placement of our items in the "Gap" store. The clientele of "Gap" and "United Arrows" is completely different. We had to think about various things, such as making items that were casual without being too dressy, and items that could be worn with sneakers on the feet. It would be different if we made something too niche and particular, but it would be meaningless if we made something mediocre. The key was how much taste to incorporate into the product.
At first, I was perplexed about receiving the award.
How did you come to receive this award and what is your honest opinion?
small treeWhen I went to Milan Fashion Week in January of this year, I was first approached by Jim Moore, who has worked for GQ for over 30 years. He told me, "I have been working on a project called Best New Menswear Designer based in the U.S., but I would like to expand the stage to the world on the occasion of its 10th anniversary. We would like to take this opportunity to expand our business to the world, and we would like to choose UNITED ARROWS as our partner. To be honest, at first, we replied that we were happy but that it would be difficult, since we are not designers ourselves. However, Jim came to Tokyo many times to see Mr. Kamoshita's brand, our store, and the original products we were making there, and he told us enthusiastically that he wanted to choose United Arrows based on his evaluation of everything. I discussed this with Mr. Kamoshita, and we decided to take on the project.
It is true that it may seem strange to receive the award from the standpoint of a retailer rather than a designer. Since you are the designer of your own "Camoshita UNITED ARROWS," you must be even more pleased to receive the award.
Dendropanax trifidus (species of flowering plant)Not really. I am a retailer and a professional retailer, but I am not a professional craftsman. Camoshita UNITED ARROWS is involved in the overall production process, so in that sense, I'm not sure if I can really accept the job as a designer. To be honest, there was a part of me that was a little uncomfortable with people who put their lives into their creations. However, I understand Jim's passion, and considering that this is an opportunity for UNITED ARROWS to connect with the rest of the world, I feel that I must do my best to meet their expectations.
I see. What kind of conversations did you two actually have before you accepted the award?
small treeThere are a few people in the U.S. who are familiar with UNITED ARROWS, but this was the first chance for us to be featured in a full-fledged fashion show, so I thought it was time for us as a company to move forward. We decided that rather than having someone like me go out there as "UNITED ARROWS," we should introduce "UNITED ARROWS" in combination with Mr. Kamoshita and myself, whose tastes might resonate with today's America. We decided to mix Mr. Kamoshita's and my own tastes and work in cooperation with each other.
It is true that the capsule collection with "Gap" seems to have a good balance of both of your tastes in the products.
small treeMr. Kamoshita has already demonstrated his taste to the fullest, and I have created items that I thought would be interesting to match with his style. UNITED ARROWS & SONS' original Sashiko denim is one such item. UNITED ARROWS & SONS" does not often offer graphic items, so we collaborated with Baron Bon Fancy, an artist I like very much, to draw letters for our hoodies and T-shirts this spring/summer. I had Baron Bon Fancy draw some words on a hoodie and a T-shirt. Baron Bon Fancy is a man who specializes in unique and slightly ironic designs, and the first idea he came up with was a graphic that said "69," which I thought was interesting since the Gap was founded in 1969. I thought it was interesting, but as I expected, the Gap rejected the idea (laughs).
Manufacturing on completely different soil.
It is interesting that they are able to propose not only one color but also a mix of various elements, as Kamoshita-san and Ogi-san have done.
How much of the essence of "The Gap" is actually in your work?
Dendropanax trifidus (species of flowering plant)I didn't put anything in there (laughter).
small treeYes, that's right. Jim told me to give it my all without worrying about the "gap. At first, we produced some pretty sharp items, but some of them had to be revised because they were not popular in the U.S. (laughs). (Laughs) But the production background for this capsule collection was all Gap, and I felt that they were good at what they did, and that this quality at this price point was a feat. At the same time, I was made aware once again of the quality of Japanese materials and the careful manufacturing process.
Sending something out to the world in this way is a good opportunity to look back at oneself objectively.
Dendropanax trifidus (species of flowering plant). Yes, it is. Once again, I thought about what the identity of "UNITED ARROWS" is. How should we communicate it, and how should we express it through our items? It was a good learning experience.
. where Japanese fashion is going to go from now on.
What did you feel or want to convey after receiving this award and presenting the capsule collection?
small treeWe are very happy that GQ, a long-established men's fashion magazine and the bible of men's fashion, has recognized our work. The capsule collection with "Gap" is also very moving. I worked at the opening of "UNITED ARROWS" in Flags building in Shinjuku in 1999, and Gap was on the lower floor, so I was wearing a mix of Gap and UNITED ARROWS items at that time. I used to wear a mix of Gap and UNITED ARROWS items back then. One of the items in our capsule collection is a tailored jacket, but Gap kept asking us to stop wearing it because it wouldn't sell at our store. However, I kept insisting that they should do it because the tailored jacket is the identity of "UNITED ARROWS. As a result, on the first day, the bulk collar coats were sold out in the U.S. online store, and the jackets were also selling well. The fact that people are still buying jackets and coats, even though the shape has changed, made me realize that there is still a lot of potential in fashion. I think the issue for the future is how to attack that.
I see. When Jim first approached you, you said that you were at a loss for a response, but on the contrary, why do you think Jim chose "United Arrows"?
small treeWhen Jim was working at GQ in the 80's and 90's, I think the jacket style was still the main style. But nowadays, GQ has less and less of that feeling. I think Jim saw Mr. Kamoshita, myself, and the store, and felt that the jacket might be a fun way to communicate in a different way in the modern age.
Dendropanax trifidus (species of flowering plant)The 70s and 80s were a transitional period for American traditional fashion. Then Ralph Lauren appeared on the scene and added a European taste to American men's fashion, which had become a bit stale. The Brooks style had been the norm, but when they added a wide tie and baggy pants, it all bloomed at once. At that time, GQ was running a feature on men's fashion that incorporated these elements. It was the coolest time, and I think they picked up on United Arrows as one of the essences that they wanted to see in America today, where the kind of forward-thinking, advanced men's coolness that was in GQ in the 70s and 80s is fading away. The same goes for the capsule collection. By collaborating with a company like Gap, which is from a different vector, it's as if different things mix together and create new DNA. I think that new things should be born and continue to evolve. I am grateful to GQ for giving me the opportunity to do so.
UNITED ARROWS Harajuku Main Store
Address: B1F-3F, 3-28-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Phone: 03-3479-8180
www.united-arrows.co.jp
Gap Flagship Harajuku
Address: 1-14-27 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Phone: 03-5786-9200
www.gap.co.jp
The official website of "UNITED ARROWS" also carries an interview with Mr. Kamoshita and Ms. Ogi. The content of the article is from a different perspective from HOUYHNHNM's, so please check it out as well.
taisetsu.united-arrows.co.jp
Yasuto Kamoshita
UNITED ARROWS Creative Director
Born in 1957 .
In 1981, after graduating from Tama Art University with a degree in Sculpture, he joined BEAMS, a pioneer in select stores. . He started in sales and was in charge of planning and buying men's clothing.
Joined UNITED ARROWS in 1989. He participated in the founding of the company and was widely responsible for the overall creation of the men's clothing line, including planning, buying, and in-store design.
. 2004 Appointed creative director of UNITED ARROWS business.
. 2013 Camoshita UNITED ARROWS, the label bearing his name, won the first "Pitti Immagine Uomo Award" (*) in Asia.
(*)The award is presented by the Pitti Immagine Association to companies and people whose brands have been duly recognized for their true merit and who have played an important role in the Italian national and international fashion industry as a whole for many years.
Kogi POGGY Motofumi
Director, UNITED ARROWS & SONS
Born in 1976 .
. 1997 Joined UNITED ARROWS LTD. After working in sales, became a press.
2006 Opened Liqour, woman&tears .
2010 Launched a new concept brand, UNITED ARROWS & SONS , and became its director. While traveling around the world as a buyer, his style attracts attention from all over the world through his overseas snaps.
. 2015 Named one of the "25 Most Influential People in Menswear" by Style.com.
. 2016 Also selected as one of the 100 chosen by the web magazine HYPEBEAST.
