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FEATURE|ALPHA INDUSTRIES
Stylist Manabu Harada shows you how to choose and incorporate military wear.

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ALPHA INDUSTRIES

Stylist Manabu Harada shows you how to choose and incorporate military wear.

The fall and winter seasons have arrived, which can be called the military season. It is also the time of year when the presence of Alpha Industries, an authentic brand widely loved by both genuine enthusiasts and the younger generation, increases. We asked Manabu Harada, a veteran stylist known as one of the industry's leading vintage clothing enthusiasts with more than 20 years of experience in the field, to give us some pointers on how to select and incorporate military items that are unique to this season.

  • Photo_Shunsuke Shiga
  • Text_ Yuho Nomura
  • Edit_Hiroshi Yamamoto

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Military wear is a must-have item for any military enthusiast.

Harada-san, I have the impression that you are particularly strong in American casual wear among vintage clothing, but did you also have a strong feeling for military clothing?

dry paddy fieldAlthough I entered the industry because of my love of vintage clothing, I was not actually that devoted to the military. When I started working as a stylist, there were already many military enthusiasts and enthusiasts who specialized in the military field, and they were the ones who laid the foundation for the way the military has come to be. However, at the time, my personality was such that I wanted to pursue a style of American casual that was a little more flexible, rather than learning from the pioneers.

However, as I visited vintage clothing stores for research and other purposes, I always saw military items in every store, and I gradually came to know the essential aspects of the background of military clothing by digging into items that I personally found interesting. I have been in touch with the essence of the background of the military.

. The perspective of vintage clothing is still important in understanding the military, isn't it?

dry paddy fieldOf course . It seems that the trendy items vary from store to store, but I hear that military items are always sold every season. I think military clothing is such a lifeline for vintage clothing stores. Denim and military have long been considered the staples of vintage clothing.

In fact, secondhand clothing store owners not only have knowledge of secondhand clothing, but they also look closely at current products. By exchanging information through small talk, asking about trends at the store, and observing the real-life outfits of customers who come into the store, trends and needs can be brought to light.

He said that there is information that can be obtained only by frequenting secondhand clothing stores.

dry paddy fieldI really feel that in this job. In my case, I basically visit vintage clothing stores, but when I look at the collections of select stores, domestic brands, or even maison brands, I can see the motifs in their collections as if I were holding the clothes in my hands. On the other hand, when I visit an "Alpha Industries" store, which can be said to be the mainstay of military wear, I discover something new about military wear. I wonder if they have changed this part of the collection (laughs).

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The joy of delving into a model that interests you.

What exactly was that discovery?

dry paddy fieldTo speak of the obvious part, I was surprised by the wide variety of MA-1s, which are synonymous with Alpha Industries. There are not only men's wear, but also women's wear, which has exploded in recent years, and even children's wear, in a wide variety of silhouettes. The materials used, such as all-leather and PrimaLoft, were also varied, and the volume of color variation was also worth seeing.

What has been passed down from generation to generation as heritage has been updated for town use from a modern perspective. It is no wonder that they are popular among the younger generation. Moreover, when we talked to the designer, we found that there are many details inspired by vintage items from the past.

. Also, the collaboration models lined up in stores at this time of the year are very appealing. It is a great learning experience to see how the individuality of each brand and the philosophy of Alpha Industries come to fruition in the form of products.

When did Mr. Harada himself first come across an Alpha Industries item?

dry paddy fieldI always tended to avoid the high road, so it's surprisingly recent that I actually got it... (laughs). . about 4-5 years ago, I think. I found a vintage MA-1 with a design and size that suited my taste at a reasonable price, and I convinced myself that it would be a good idea to buy it now, so I bought it.

Is that because you were attracted to it simply for its coolness as a product rather than for its military historical background?

dry paddy field. I'm drawn to unusual designs and models I've never seen before. . From there, I enjoy digging into the background of the product, such as the model's official name, its age, and what purpose it was created for. The other day, I found a suit-type flight jacket, and upon closer inspection, I found that the model was electrically heated and even had a plug that plugged into an electrical outlet. . I thought it was interesting from both a design and functional standpoint.

Finding such oddities is part of the fun, he said.

dry paddy field. I don't think that just because it is military, there is no need to be bound by stereotypes. People of our generation tend to have a fixed image of military wear and tend to coordinate their outfits in a similar way. For example, a flight jacket goes with army pants or baker pants, and boots on the feet.

Not that there is anything wrong with that, but I have always thought that fashion should be worn more freely, so when I find an item with individuality, I smile (laughs). Military is deep and flexible, and I realize through the items that there is still a lot of potential as a style.

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. A free way of dressing that is not bound by theories.

. enjoy the freedom of fashion. Perhaps that may be linked in some ways to the current trend of military style, which is popular among the younger generation at the forefront.

dry paddy fieldThe easiest way to measure this is to look at how people wear MA-1s. There was a time not so long ago when MA-1s were not selling well, and there was a period when people around us said, "I would dare to wear an MA-1 now.

That is, they cut off the sleeves and changed the material like young people do today, and they wore them custom-made with patches and badges. Some time later, the MA-1 rapidly became popular among young people and girls.

They wore big silhouettes and matched with a variety of items from mode to street. They were wearing the MA-1 in styles that we could not have imagined, and they were wearing it freely. I was inspired by the way these young people, who were not bound by any theories, were wearing military wear.

Did you feel that from your perspective as a stylist?

dry paddy fieldNo, it's a personal point of view . Such a sense of styling from a different generation is simply fresh, isn't it? I hope that I can accept that freshness and digest it in my own way. After all, fashion is most interesting when you wear it in your own way. Of course, there are times when such an attitude can be translated into the work of a stylist.

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Alpha Industries is a brand that can be loved through the ages.

Once again, what does Alpha Industries mean to you?

dry paddy fieldI think this is the only military brand that even people who are not familiar with vintage clothing know about. It has such a high level of recognition, and just hearing the name "Alpha Industries" is enough to make you feel at ease. I don't think there are many brands with such a long history that allow you to find the right model for the right age, from vintage to current, and enjoy the differences between them. It is a reliable brand that can be used as an introduction to the market, as well as a good approach to those who are interested in authenticity.

What do you think is the appeal of the military, Mr. Harada?

dry paddy fieldI guess it is the difference in age. There is something romantic about being able to see the trends, social background, and technological advances of the time through the details of a model's shape, specifications, and details (laughs).

From that perspective, it is good to hold current products in one's hands and compare them with secondhand clothing. . However, I think it is important to enjoy it casually as a fashion item without thinking too hard about it first. The large quantities sold at thrift stores in the U.S., as well as the items introduced here, are not expensive.

I think this ease of accessibility is one of the reasons for the popularity among young people today.

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Mr. Harada carefully selected three Alpha Industries and how to wear them.

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The flight jacket, arranged with patches, expresses a basic American casual style. . "The flannel check shirt, which is a perfect match, along with the suede setup and corduroy cap, create a sense of the season through the use of materials. The overall look is consistent, and the addition of a token bag and bandana for accentuation is another key point."

6454-6310), Vintage bandana ¥2,000+TAX (Jumpin' Jap Flash / 03-5724-7170)

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The quilt liner, which is thinner than jackets and coats, is used as outerwear in this styling. The olive color, which is basic in military wear, gives a rugged impression , while the beautiful luster gives a sense of refinement. Basically, I tried to unify with traditional items and propose a mature and classical dressing style. Personally, I often layer knitwear with an assertive neck under an inner down or liner, which I recommend!"

Quilt liner ¥9,800+TAX by Alpha Industries, cashmere turtleneck knit ¥48,000+TAX by HS Ataia, leather gloves ¥49,000+TAX by Dentz (both HS Ataia / 03-6455-0122), slacks ¥35,000+TAX by Nuance (Alpha PR / 03-5413-3546), hat ¥35,000+TAX by Stetson, cashmere turtleneck knit ¥48,000+TAX by HS Ataia, leather gloves ¥49,000+TAX by Dentz (both HS Ataia / 03-455-0122). Nuance slacks ¥35,000+TAX (Alpha PR / 03-5413-3546), Stetson hat ¥26,000+TAX (Stetson Japan / 03-5652-5890), G.H. Bass Loafer shoes ¥23,000+TAX (G.M.T. / 03-5453-0033), Port Canvas brief bag ¥4,990+TAX (Hickory / 03-3419-4146), Vintage eyeglass frames ¥12,800+TAX (Gasoline / 03-6452-5890), Vintage shoes ¥12,800+TAX (G.H. Bass / 03-5453-0033), Vintage shoes ¥12,800+TAX (G.M.T. / 03-5453-0033), Vintage shoes ¥12,000+TAX (G.M.T. / 03-6453-0033) TAX (Gasoline / 03-6454-6310)

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. "For the MA-1, which is highly versatile and popular among military outerwear, I chose the black camo pattern, which I liked at first impression. Plain colors have been the mainstream for the past few years, so I thought a pattern would be fresh this year. And if I wanted to match the pattern with a street-like look, it would be the best fit. While the entire outfit is constructed in a single tone of black, the use of accessories such as the orange scarf, the black backpack, and the white belt, which are all color coordinated with the overall look, are definitely something to refer to.

MA-1¥19,800+TAX by 〈Alpha Industries〉, sweatshirt parka ¥26,000+TAX by Markerware (Parking / 03-6412-8217), vintage T-shirt ¥7,000+TAX ( Jumpin' Jap Flash / 03-5724-7170), line pants by Eric Hunter x Journal Standard ¥9,800+TAX , scarf by 〈Inver Arran〉 ¥21,000+TAX (Journal Standard Shibuya store / 03-5457-0700 (Alfa PR / 03-5413-3546) , Timberland boots ¥24,000+TAX (Timberland / VF Japan / 0120-953-844) , Kiruna belt ¥3T3,000+TAX (Kiruna / VF Japan / 0120-953-844) , Timberland boots ¥3T3T3,000+TAX (Timberland / VF Japan / 0120-953-844) , Timberland boots ¥3T3,000+TAX (Timberland / VF Japan / 0120-953-844) Belt ¥3,000+TAX (Faith / 03-5459-5801), Backpack ¥30,000+TAX (Lorinza / Best Packing Store / 03-5773-5586)

ALPHA INDUSTRIES
Phone: 03-5604-8900
www.alpha-usa.jp

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