FEATURE | TIE UP

Translated By DeepL

A bridge connecting Nagasaki and Iwate. A specialty shop for Hasami-yaki pottery, curated by ceramic designer Kutarō Abe.
A bridge connecting Hasami and Hanamaki.

A bridge connecting Nagasaki and Iwate. A specialty shop for Hasami-yaki pottery, curated by ceramic designer Kutarō Abe.

Fashion is certainly important to us, but making the most of our time at home is just as important. If you take a little more care in choosing the tableware you use every day without a second thought, cooking at home and enjoying meals at the table will become much more fun. While Japan has a wide variety of pottery, I’m particularly interested in Hasami-yaki—it’s durable, easy to use in daily life, and features modern designs that blend seamlessly into everyday living. So, we paid a visit to “C.P.D.,” a Hasami-yaki shop that opened last year in Hanamaki City, Iwate Prefecture, and spoke with ceramic designer Kutarō Abe. In the second half of this article, we’ll introduce some recommended spots in Hanamaki and Morioka that we visited during our trip!

Hanamaki & Morioka: Where Craft and a Breath of Fresh Air Meet. 12 Must-Visit Spots.

Hanamaki Chapter

① Ruminii Art Museum

The art museum that inspired the founding of *Heralbony*. The exhibition space on the first floor features unconventional, free-spirited works. In fact, many of the works on display were created by people with disabilities. Visitors are welcome to tour the studio on the second floor, which serves as the group’s creative hub. The name is derived from Lumbini, Nepal—the birthplace of Buddha. It is said that the name embodies a commitment to respecting the life and individuality of every person.

INFORMATION

Rumbini Art Museum

Address: 1-21-29 Hoshigaoka, Hanamaki City, Iwate Prefecture
Phone: 0198-22-5057
Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. (Closed Wednesdays, Sundays, and the fourth Tuesday of each month)
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②1989

"1989" is a select shop comprising three floors: men’s, women’s, and vintage. As the name suggests, it opened in 1989 and has been a leading force in the Tohoku fashion scene for nearly 40 years. The store features a lineup of domestic and international brands, including 〈NEPENTHES〉 and 〈N.HOOLYWOOD〉. Among its original products are vintage Polo Ralph Lauren shirts that have been remade into stand-collar styles. The vintage floor is open only on weekends. The space, which feels like owner Kazuhiko Hiraga’s personal hobby room, is sure to resonate with Fuinam readers.

INFORMATION

1989

Address: 2-13-1 Nishi-Odori, Hanamaki City, Iwate Prefecture
Phone: 0198-22-2053
Hours: 12:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. (Closed on Tuesdays)
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③ Marukan Building Grand Dining Hall

The “Marukan Building,” a Hanamaki landmark that was beloved as “Marukan Department Store” for 43 years and has made a comeback since its closure in 2016. On the sixth floor is a vast dining area that can seat over 500 people, which has reopened while retaining its retro Showa-era charm. With over 150 menu items—including ramen, soba, sushi, curry, and Western-style dishes—the hearty, visually appealing portions are sure to satisfy both your heart and your stomach. Among these, the “Napori Katsu”—a combination of a generous portion of Napolitan pasta and tonkatsu—and the soft-serve ice cream, standing about 25 centimeters tall and eaten with chopsticks, are iconic Hanamaki specialties you’ll want to capture in a photo.

INFORMATION

Marukan Building Grand Dining Hall

Address: 6F Marukan Building, 6-2 Kamimachi, Hanamaki City, Iwate Prefecture
Phone: 0198-29-5588
Hours: Weekdays 11:00 a.m.–3:30 p.m., Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays 11:00 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (Closed Wednesdays)
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④Department

The space in the same “Marukan Building” that used to be a department store basement has been renovated into “Dprtment,” a skate park and shop. This space was born from owner Daichi Sasaki’s desire to create a place for skaters in Hanamaki. The park features a wide variety of sections, designed to be enjoyable for everyone from beginners to advanced skaters. The shop carries a wide range of brands, including and , offering everything a skater needs—from decks and apparel to wheels.

INFORMATION

Department

Address: B1F, Marukan Building, 6-2 Kamimachi, Hanamaki City, Iwate Prefecture
Phone: 0198-29-5595
Hours: 1:00 PM–6:00 PM; Wednesdays and Fridays only: 5:00 PM–11:00 PM
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⑤ Night-blooming jasmine

Founded in 1955, this renowned gyoza restaurant is a staple of Hanamaki. It continues to serve the same flavors brought back by the first-generation owner during his visit to Manchuria in the early Showa era. The gyoza, pan-fried with plenty of sesame oil, are characterized by a savory aroma reminiscent of deep-fried gyoza. The filling is packed with vegetables and has a light, refreshing flavor, making them perfect for pairing with beer—you’ll find yourself reaching for another serving after another. Incidentally, the restaurant’s intriguing name is pronounced “Ierai-shan.” It’s said to be the name of a flower native to China that emits a mysterious fragrance at night. Their dedication to serving only gyoza is also a plus.

INFORMATION

Night-Blooming Jasmine

Address: 3-3 Futaba-cho, Hanamaki City, Iwate Prefecture
Phone: 0198-23-3857
Hours: 4:00 PM–8:00 PM (Closes when sold out; closed Wednesdays, Sundays, and holidays)

Morioka Edition

①BOOKNERD

"BOOKNERD" is an independent bookstore opened in 2017 by Daisuke Hayasaka, a native of Akita Prefecture, after he left his corporate job. The name literally translates to "book nerd." True to its name, the store features a wide range of books—from photo collections and art books to literary works, magazines, and little press publications—all carefully curated with a discerning eye. The store also houses a café and a gallery. On this particular day, a vintage shop with no physical storefront that collects items related to the face, “ONDO" was holding an exhibition and sale."

INFORMATION

BOOKNERD

Address: 1F, Otesaki Building, 16-16 Uchimaru, Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture
Hours: 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (Open daily, except during the year-end and New Year holidays)
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②STUDO

"—a familiar name on Fuinam—"Landscape Products (Landscape Products)and " Swimsuit Department (Swimsuit Department) "STUDO," a select shop featuring design, daily necessities, and interior goods, was opened last year by owner Shogo Sato, a graduate of [school name]. The small store is packed to the brim with a lineup of designer products sourced from Japan and abroad, highly practical daily necessities, and folk art pieces. The fact that works by Keisuke Serizawa are displayed on the walls speaks to Sato’s passion for design.

INFORMATION

STUDO

Address: Room 102, Sato Building, 1-6-26 Chuo-dori, Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture
Hours: 1:00 PM–7:00 PM (Closed Wednesdays and Thursdays)
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③ Morihisa Suzuki Workshop

The “Suzuki Morihisa Workshop” is renowned as a leading name in Nanbu ironware, a traditional craft representative of Iwate Prefecture. The workshop has passed down its techniques for approximately 400 years, dating back to the Edo period, and is currently led by the 16th-generation head, a former graphic designer. While Nanbu ironware is typically associated with a black finish, the products crafted by the “Suzuki Morihisa Workshop” are characterized by their reddish hue. To bring out the beauty of the intricate patterns and the texture of the iron surface, they deliberately mix in a pigment called “bengara” to create a reddish-brown finish. In addition to iron teapots, the workshop offers a wide selection of small items perfect for souvenirs, such as plates, wind chimes, and paperweights. On this occasion, we were granted a special tour of the workshop.

INFORMATION

Morihisa Suzuki Studio

Address: 1-6-7 Minami-Odori, Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture
Hours: Weekdays 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Saturdays and holidays 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. (Closed Sundays)
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④ General

A “kaku-uchi”-style wine bar located in the Uchimaru area, nestled between the inner and middle moats of Morioka Castle. Opened in 2024 with the cooperation of “The Ginsara,” a popular spot in Ikejiri-Ohashi, Tokyo, the bar was founded by Taku Tanaka—a photographer based in Tokyo—who wanted to create a place in his hometown of Morioka where people could gather casually. The interior, which makes use of a building over 100 years old, has an atmosphere reminiscent of an old storehouse. Canned goods are served as accompaniments, allowing guests to enjoy the unique pairing of natural wine and canned food.

INFORMATION

Address: 4-7 Uchimaru, Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture
Hours: Weekdays 5:00 PM–10:00 PM, Saturdays 4:00 PM–11:00 PM, Sundays 4:00 PM–9:00 PM
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⑤HERALBONY ISAI PARK

"Isai Park" is a multi-purpose space—combining a café, store, and gallery—created by . The café features tableware designed by Kutarō Abe, who paid close attention to size and depth, and incorporates artwork by Sanae Sasaki. The coffee served is “Nagasawa Coffee,” the beer is “Bearen Classic,” and the background music is curated by “Jazzy Sports”—a key feature of the space is its commitment to supporting local Morioka businesses.

INFORMATION

HERALBONY ISAI PARK

Address: 1F, Parc Avenue Kawato, 1-10-1 Saien, Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture
Phone: 019-681-9877
Hours: 10:00-19:00
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⑥ Shokudōen: The Original Pyongyang Cold Noodles

When you think of Morioka, you think of cold noodles! The birthplace of this dish is right here at “Ganso Pyongyang Cold Noodles Shokudōen.” It is said that the original owner, who hailed from the Korean Peninsula, perfected the prototype of Morioka cold noodles through trial and error, adapting the Pyongyang cold noodles of his homeland to suit Japanese tastes. The noodles, made from a blend of wheat flour and starch, are characterized by their firm texture and smooth, slippery mouthfeel. They pair perfectly with the broth, which masterfully balances the umami of beef and chicken bones with sour, spicy, and sweet flavors. These cold, refreshing noodles are the ideal way to finish off a yakiniku meal.

INFORMATION

The Original Pyongyang Cold Noodles: Shokudōen

Address: 1-8-2 Odori, Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture
Phone: 019-651-4590
Hours: 11:30 a.m.–3:00 p.m., 5:00 p.m.–11:00 p.m. (until 9:00 p.m. on Sundays and holidays)
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⑦HOTEL MAZARIUM

Choosing the right hotel is key to making your trip a fulfilling one. The large public bath at “Hotel Mazarium (HOTEL MAZARIUM)” features a Finnish-style sauna in its large public bath area to soothe the fatigue of exploring the city. The hotel’s art curation is handled by , and guests can stay in guest rooms adorned with art. Additionally, the lounge area features Morioka’s jazz café “Johnny of Kaiun Bridge"Moved by the shop owner's passion, the world-renowned jazz pianist—Toshiko Akiyoshi Museum...is also on the premises. On some nights, there are live jazz performances in the lounge. Incidentally, the plates used for breakfast were designed under the supervision of Kutarō Abe.

INFORMATION

Hotel Mazarium

Address: 1-9-22 Nakanohashi-dori, Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture
Phone: 019-681-1004
Time: Check-in at 3:00 PM / Check-out at 10:00 AM
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