FEATURE| Eneroid and Ryosuke Nagaoka. A strong bond drawn by glasses.
Enaroid and Ryosuke Nagaoka. A strong bond drawn by glasses.
Fukui is well known as a production center for eyeglasses in Japan, but there is also a factory in Nakatsugawa, Gifu Prefecture, that is dedicated to quality manufacturing. ENALLOID," which was born as a factory brand of Ena Eyeglass Industries, is a brand that symbolizes such quality. Mr. Ryosuke Nagaoka of the Petrols is a favorite wearer of ENALLOID and appears in the brand's visuals. Mr. Nagaoka is also known for his love of glasses. For this interview, we sat down with Mr. Tadashi Mishima, director of "Enaroid," to talk about the brand's glasses.
Tadashi Mishima / Director, Eneroid Born in 1975. While working on the development of an overseas eyewear brand, he also serves as the director of "Enaroid," an original brand of Gifu Prefecture's Ena Eyeglass Industry Co. His hobbies are listening to music/movies and photography.
We first met at the production of the "Ukigumo Model.
First of all, please tell us about the Eneroid brand.
JapanThere is an integrated production factory in Nakatsugawa, Gifu called Ena Eyeglass Industry, which was established in 1947. Basically, frames are made from a fiber-based material called acetate. The factory has its own unique polishing method, and the way the luster is produced is very unique and beautiful.
I understand that you have appeared in visuals for the brand, but how did you originally come to work with them?
NagaokaWhen I was in a band called Tokyo Incidents, I had a pair of glasses made as merchandise. It was at that time that I got to know Mr. Mishima.
JapanYes, it was.
Ryosuke Nagaoka / Musician Born in Chiba, Japan in 1978. He has been supporting professional musicians as a guitarist since he was a student, and in 2005, he joined Ringo Shiina's band "Tokyo Incidents" as a guitarist under the name "Ukigumo". In the same year, he formed his own band, "Petrols. Currently, in addition to his own band activities, he is actively supporting and producing for other musicians.
NagaokaThere are three members in the band who wear glasses, and I wanted to create models for them. I like glasses, so I made a lot of requests for the "Ukigumo model" (laughs).
What do you mean by "various"?
NagaokaThere are metal fittings attached to the front part for decoration, and they are in the shape of a guitar. I drew a picture of a guitar I used to play, and had a mold made from it.
JapanHe really drew it in his own handwriting. To be honest, I didn't think he was that serious at first. So I was taken aback at our first meeting, and then he came all the way to our office and we sat down and talked about the project. You made two models of Ukigumo, didn't you?
NagaokaYes, I am. Two types of glasses and sunglasses. One pair was not enough. I wanted a different design with a different color. I wanted to make something old-fashioned. So I asked Mr. Mishima to listen to my every wish.
JapanIt was fun to see how much he really likes glasses. However, one of the models was not completed in time for the tour because of my particular taste.... We added a few more models to the tour.
NagaokaIt's like Petrols to be able to get it out when they can (laughs).
Would you like to make it again?
NagaokaOh no, I don't think I need to make any more. I'm just fine with buying what I want. Because I've done it all at this time.
I am attracted to the product aspect of eyeglasses, not the strength of the product.
Have you always been connected with the production of the Ukigumo model?
NagaokaYes, I do.
JapanAs you mentioned earlier, you sometimes appeared in Eneroid's visuals, and we also did a tour together playing at an eyeglass shop. We also did a tour together playing at eyeglass shops.
NagaokaYes, there was. We had a live show scheduled, but everything else was blank, so we suddenly rented a car and went somewhere. It was a loose tour.
JapanIt was like traveling together and bringing souvenirs (laughs). (Laughs.) At that time, we also made a cloth and case for the glasses. It was an extravagant trip, as we printed Nagaoka-san's drawings on the cloth and produced a solo CD together.
NagaokaThe pictures are just things I like to draw.
JapanGuitars, cars, glasses and....
NagaokaAnd alcohol (laughs).
So you have packed your tastes and interests into your work (laughs). Have you always worn glasses?
NagaokaI have been wearing glasses since junior high school. There was a time when I wore contacts, but my eyes would get tired. I thought it would be easier to wear glasses.
When did glasses become a part of fashion?
NagaokaI think I was about 20 years old. I like glasses more as an object than as a fashion item. I like them because of their cool structure or something. Maybe it was inborn, or maybe there was no particular trigger....
JapanWhether it is guitars or cars, you really like things, don't you? You also like bicycles, don't you?
NagaokaYes, yes. I like glasses in that same way. So it's not about the strength of the product, such as Buddy Holly's glasses. I like them as products.
How many pairs of glasses do you have now? I have a vague impression that you always wear glasses with large frames.
NagaokaAbout 30 bottles, I think. I have a lot of them. I decide what I want to wear depending on my mood at the time. Sometimes I wear small frames. When I think, "Small metal frames are in fashion now," I choose something else. It's usually like that (laughs).
JapanSo last year, you suddenly said, "I want black celluloid (roid) frames.
NagaokaYes! A big one.
JapanYou said earlier, "It's not about the ultimate strength," but Mr. Nagaoka is not so particular that he says, "I have to have this brand! In a good sense, you are not obsessive about "I have to have this brand! He is very flexible and wears glasses according to his mood at the time, which I think is unique.
Are you particular about comfort?
NagaokaIt does.
JapanBasically, you're trying to make it click and fit.
NagaokaYes, I would make very fine adjustments to that part. It would be lame if they fell off during a live performance (laughs). (Laughs) It would be weird to fix the glasses in between performances if they start to slip off. Foreign frames tend to fall easily, so I have to be very careful about adjusting them.
JapanWhen you meet a good optician, they will maintain your glasses properly. It reduces stress when using the glasses, and they can be used for a long time. That is why we become more attached to our things.
NagaokaMaintenance is really important.
JapanEven if you are thinking, "I wonder if this is no longer good enough," if you bring it to an eyeglass shop, they may unexpectedly be able to accommodate you. Basically, it is easier to think of the products in the store as unfinished products.
NagaokaYeah, yeah, yeah.
JapanYou take something you bought at a store and make it fit you better by adjusting it. When you have this sense, eyeglasses become more a part of your life.
From the beginning to the end, production activities can be carried out with a certain sense of aesthetics.
You have worn a lot of glasses, but what do you think of "Enaloid"?
NagaokaIt is very easy to wear. Enaloid glasses blend in with your face. There are glasses that take time to get used to after you try them on. It is important to take on challenges like that because it broadens your range, but in the case of "Enaroids", they look good on you as soon as you put them on. They become a part of your face at that moment.
JapanIn the case of "Enaroid," I keep the lines of the frames relatively thin. I think it is important to keep the expression of the eyes intact.
The expression in the eyes?
JapanIf the frames are too assertive, they fight with the face. So, the frames are designed with a sense of discomfort, but we are conscious of avoiding that. I think it is better if the person's expression is preserved.
I see.
JapanBut sunglasses are different. In the case of sunglasses, it is also important to enjoy the change.
Mr. Nagaoka, you and Mr. Mishima actually visited the factory, didn't you? How was it?
NagaokaIt was a beautiful factory. It was neat and orderly. It was interesting to see old machines mixed in with the new ones.
Do you think Fukui is the leading producer of eyeglasses in Japan, or is Nakatsugawa in Gifu the same?
JapanNo, only Ena Megane Kogyo is operating in Nakatsugawa. The third generation is running the business now, but the hometown of the first generation is Nakatsugawa. Originally, Osaka was a prosperous place for eyeglass production, and he came back to his hometown after training there.
JapanIn Fukui, glasses are basically produced under the division of labor, but in Ena, all processes are undertaken by a single company. This is one of the characteristics of Ena.
Does that create something different from Fukui?
JapanSince production activities can be conducted with a certain aesthetic sense from the beginning to the end, this results in the creation of high-quality spectacles. Of course, the division of labor has its charms.
NagaokaThat diversity is interesting.
Is there anything in the production process that has left a lasting impression on you?
NagaokaThat's a lot of manual work. I was surprised there.
JapanThe machine seems to be working, and your hands are moving well with it.
NagaokaIt's not like you can make one pair of glasses right away. It would take time to master the technique.
JapanWe have a motto at the factory, "Quality First, Efficiency Second.
NagaokaEveryone was polite.
Are the people working there from young to skilled craftsmen?
JapanMore than half of them are in their 20s. I don't think it is very common for young people to work in a factory, but the factory environment is good. The factory environment is good, so there is great potential for the future.
NagaokaAlso, there was a lot of fabric for glasses, and that was amazing too. They were acetate boards. It was a huge amount.
JapanIt's a very spacious place, and it's all spread out.
So you make glasses from that fabric.
JapanYes, it does. It takes about 20 days from the time the frame is cut to the shape of the frame until the entire process is completed. Seven of those days are devoted to polishing, and it is quite rare for a factory to be that particular about polishing.
At the beginning, you mentioned that the polish is unique.
NagaokaYou put the glasses in the machine with some kind of chip and turned it around and around. That's how you polish them, isn't it?
Like stonewashing clothes.
JapanYes, it is. We turn it by machine for about 6 days, and polish it by hand at the end. When efficiency is required, and where it is necessary to add more work beyond that, it is carefully done by hand.
NagaokaSome of the processes were automated to some extent, but in the back there were old machines that must have been used in the past, which made me feel nostalgic. It was a good opportunity for me.
Sincerity in eyeglasses. Love for our products.
Mr. Nagaoka, what do you think is the appeal of "Enaloid"?
NagaokaI thought this when I was in contact with Mr. Mishima, and also when I visited the factory, but I felt he was very stoic. The chairman and president of the factory are also very serious and earnest. You can see that feeling reflected in their products. That's what I like about them.
Do you have any plans for the future of your brand?
JapanThe brand lineup used to be more women's, but now the men's line is becoming popular, and I have a lot of ideas in my head, and I am thinking of making more masculine items as well. I am thinking of making more masculine items, such as rugged glasses. I am also thinking of sending out more items overseas, including good craftsmanship, instead of selling them on a domestic basis. I am confident that they will be accepted.
*A booklet documenting the factory tour in Nakatsugawa, Gifu Prefecture, mentioned in the article, has been distributed at Eneroid handling stores nationwide since mid-March.
