AMI talks philosophy at a vintage clothing store. Fashion, social networking, decisions...etc.
It was a sunny spring day in April. Alexandre Matucci was in Japan to unveil his new collection with "Smiley". Known for his unparalleled love of vintage clothing, he and I spent some time in the vintage clothing stores around Yoyogi Uehara, Tokyo, which he rarely visits on his business trips to Tokyo, talking about the creation of "ami alexandre mattiussi," his collaboration with "Smiley," his childhood, and what he thinks of the collection and the future. collaboration with Smiley, his childhood, and the future.
As soon as he appeared at the rendezvous point, the "O-KI-DO-KI" vintage clothing store located at the beginning of the shopping street in front of Yoyogi-Hachiman Station, Alexandre Matoussi happily shouted, "I can seriously shop here, right? his voice bubbling with excitement. Just like selecting records at a record store, he picked up used clothes from one end of the rack to the other and pulled out the items he was interested in. It was pleasant to watch him intuitively select items without any hesitation at all.
Under the slogan of "realistic proposals for real men," Ami Alexandre Matucci made his debut at the Paris Men's Collection in 2011. It is needless to say that in the seven years since then, the brand has grown rapidly to have eight stores around the world, including its base in Paris. The "democratic, easy, and not esoteric clothes," which are a far cry from the image-driven fashion filled with easy-to-understand appeals, are the very embodiment of Alexandre's smart, nonchalant attitude. In these complicated times, a truly smart and creative audience may support his clothes.
Alexandre Matusi
Born in 1980. After graduating from an art school in Paris, he started his career at the men's department of Dior, and then studied at Givenchy and Marc Jacobs. He currently has flagship stores in Paris, London, Tokyo, and Hong Kong.
You always speak of your desire to create democratic fashion. It is obvious that being democratic here does not refer only to price, but can you tell us again what you mean by democratic fashion?
Alexandre.Fashion is very democratic in the sense that it is a medium that allows anyone to express themselves, and I feel that its significance as such a medium is becoming stronger than ever. Fashion that anyone can afford to buy, that is not difficult to wear, and that still allows people to fully express their own personal style is the kind of fashion I am aiming for and dreaming of as a designer.
Unless a designer is an exclusive and elective person, he or she creates clothes because he or she is happy to see people wearing the clothes he or she has created. I think that it is precisely because clothes allow people to connect with themselves easily, without the need for complicated interpretations, that a truly personal relationship can be built between the wearer and the clothes.
Shop 01: O-KI-DO-KI
Alexandre bought a Champion sweatshirt, a Nike parka, and a Patagonia waist bag at this store. B1F Shimooka Building, 1-9-15 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo / 12:00 - 21:00 / 03-6407-8525 / ameblo.jp/tokidoki2008/
The items I picked up at the thrift store we toured together today are also very democratic.
Alexandre.I am really consistent in what I like and what interests me. This is true not only in my creative activities, but in my life in general. Conversely, if something doesn't interest me, I can't remember it no matter how many times I hear it (laughs), and to my mother's dismay, I have very clear likes and dislikes.
That's why they are so quick in their decision making. Today, I was surprised and even exhilarated to see them instantly selecting secondhand clothing. In a way, it seemed to be a sign of unwavering confidence.
Alexandre.It certainly could be. I don't mean that in a narcissistic way, but in a very humble confidence. I mean confidence in the sense that I am not afraid of failure when I take action or make choices for myself.
We humans are naturally "fearful" and grow up being taught that the world is full of scary things, but my greatest fear is that I will become too risk averse to take on new challenges. That's my greatest fear.
Shop 02: DOJOE
At her second stop, DOJOE, she purchased a pair of seven-part chinos. Alexandre looks cute trying them on. 9-8 Motoyoyogi-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo / 14:00-22:00 / 03-6884-2425 / dojoe-tokyo.tumblr.com
Do you make decisions quickly, not only at work but also in your daily life?
Alexandre.I quit smoking two months ago, but I smoke fast, eat fast, and look at paintings in museums very fast. My friends who go to museums with me must be annoyed. Maybe there are things that I have overlooked in such a fast pace.
But I want to believe in what I think is most important at the time, what I intuitively like. Even in business.
As fast as decisions are made, what we say can change from yesterday to today. But as long as I am consistent in the long run, I am fine with that. So even if I fail, I have no regrets. I just keep moving forward. But I will always make a sincere effort to face what is in front of me.
In a world overflowing with information and things, do you have any tips for living as confidently as you do?
Alexandre.The important thing is to continue to share your identity and feelings with loved ones, such as family and friends. And to remain interested in what is happening in the world.
My mother would sometimes call me and ask, "Do you even know what's going on in the world right now?" She would ask me, "Do you know what's going on in the world right now? I don't want my special world of fashion to make me ignorant of the various things happening in the real world, and I don't want to be consumed by the delusion that I'm special.
Fashion may indeed be a special world, but I try not to forget who I am so that I don't get swallowed up in it. It is very important to be true to yourself.
In an age where fake news is so prevalent, social media so pervasive, and images so abundant that it is difficult to distinguish between true and false from the surface, that seems like a very difficult thing to do.
Alexandre.That's right. In an age where we buy clothes based on image, everyone is constantly looking at pictures. Unfortunately, I myself am aware that I have become such a social media addict that I am constantly looking for Wi-Fi and checking Instagram... (smiles).
The Instagram account of [Ami Alexandre Matucci].Since its inception, I have been trying to manage and post my own "Instagram Daily Life", but I am careful not to make it a "daily life for Instagram". I try not to make it an "everyday life for Insta," like not choosing my breakfast to post on Instagram (laughs). It is very important to be myself, not a fictional image, in order to stay truly connected with my followers.
Shop 03: are you hungry?
The last stop was a secondhand clothing store near Yoyogi Uehara Station. Alexandre bought a pair of sneakers at the store, which is crammed full of clothes and shoes. 9-2 Motoyoyoyogi-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo / 16:00-22:00 / 090-9641-9214
When you think about it, you could say that fashion is an industry that is constantly producing images. In such an environment, you, who are continuously creating with a focus on reality, may be said to be a kind of rare existence.
Alexandre.In the fashion industry, we are constantly bombarded with new images, such as advertisements, celebrities, and new collaborations, and I have to admit that sometimes I feel like we are overdosing. I am concerned that too much communication may lead to a loss of understanding of the essential meaning of the word.
We all have times when we talk too much and end up not knowing what we were trying to say, don't we? Just because you want people to understand or know something doesn't necessarily mean you have to tell them everything. ...When I think about it, at this very moment, as a designer, I am already talking too much (laughs).
Are you saying that essentially the clothes should speak for themselves?
Alexandre.Yes, it is. I am often asked in interviews, "What was the inspiration for this shirt? but I am at a loss for an answer....
For me, it is not a specific event, but every moment of my daily life that is the source of inspiration, and it is the accumulation of these moments that leads me to a certain design. Various fragments of my daily life must become my expression, and I believe that this is the root of self-expression.
I believe that good expression is born from such extremely personal and down-to-earth feelings. I would be happy if the items created in this way leave the designer's hands and become someone's precious clothing. I want to be the kind of person who, after buying one of my sweaters, goes through his or her wardrobe and says to his or her girlfriend, "Do you know any AMI sweaters? I want to be the kind of person who, after buying one of my sweaters, goes through their wardrobe and says to their lover, "Do you know my AMI sweater? Not, "Do you know that blue sweater?" Not, "Do you know that blue sweater?
AMI, What did you buy?
I'm curious, what Ami bought at the thrift store.
Patagonia "Body Bag
This one was purchased at O-KI-DO-KI. I think outdoor brand waist bags are actually very masculine and sexy. I travel a lot on my motorcycle, so I only want to carry the bare essentials, and this is the best item for me.
Champion "Sweat Shirts".
I'm going to wear it on the plane on the way back home (laughs). I rarely buy clothes that I didn't design myself, so when I have to buy more, I tend to go for authentic, timeless pieces like this. Purchased at O-KI-DO-KI.
No Brand "Chinos
At DOJOE, he bought a pair of seven-part chinos. I bought these pants as a reference for my next collection. When I tried them on, I really liked the silhouette. The slightly shiny fabric is also unique. I want to use them as a reference for the first step in my production.
No Brand "Sneakers"
'These sneakers are also a resource. The old rubber sole is so beautiful and the toe is warped when viewed from the side. The brand name is ...... too old to read, but I don't care. Purchased at "are you hungry?"
Nike "Nylon Parka"
Nike's nylon parka purchased at O-KI-DO-KI. The color combination is just my favorite. For some reason, I've been attracted to red since I was a kid. It looks good on rainy days and is perfect for traveling. I would dare to wear it with a beautiful coat.
Champion "Hoodie".
The hoodie purchased at "O-KI-DO-KI" was "chosen as a gift for a close friend, but as a matter of fact, the balance of the hood is so superb that it may be used as material for my next collection (laughs).
Spring Summer 2018
Spring/Summer 2018 Collection
The collection is inspired by the streets of Paris and the people who gather there. For example, the wide stripes on the columns of the Palais Royal, the pink cheeks of the skaters in the Place de la République, the blue of the Grand Tube at the Pompidou.... The city, which is also the base of Alexandre's activities, is the design source for his collection of modern and beautiful clothes.
Fall Winter 2018
Fall/Winter 2018 Collection
The Fall/Winter 2018 collection is a return to the brand's origins. The colors and silhouettes of the bright red duffle coats, crop-length slacks, and casual open-collared shirts are in tune with the current mood. The traditional clothes also looked somewhat fresh. For the first time, women's wear also appeared. The designs are adorable and boyish.
AMI SMILEY COLLECTION
The latest collection by Ami and Smiley.
Alexandre says, "Smileys are as positive, happy, and good-vibing as they look, and they represent all the attitudes of our collection. We dared to choose only simple items because we wanted them to be items that can be worn anytime, as if they were talismans.
