HOUYHNHNM's has independently selected 15 brands to watch for "Autumn/Winter"!

Balenciaga is a trendsetter in the fashion world. It has been more than two years since Demna Vasaria took over as artistic director, but the momentum of the brand shows no sign of slowing down. Even clothes that look "normal" at a quick glance are extremely large in size, long in length, or have emphasized shoulders, etc. The re-creation of forms is truly skillful. Moreover, since the clothes are based on daily wardrobe and street fashion, we, as clothes lovers, are interested in Balenciaga's clothes! The first half of this collection features jackets and coats that pay homage to the late Cristobal Balenciaga, who was called the "architect of the couture world. The second half was a parade of layered styles, with up to nine outerwear pieces. In addition, a project in collaboration with The World Food Programme (WFP), an organization that works to eradicate hunger and poverty, was also developed. It was like watching old and new "Balenciaga" through the first and second halves of the show, and it was a reminder of Demna's expressive ability.

The film "Dries Van Noten: The Man Who Loves Fabrics and Flowers" was released in January this year. The documentary film on Dries himself was a wonderful film that conveys not only his creations, but also his sincere and shy personality. The fall/winter collection showed that even though the number of runway shows has exceeded 100, the brand's stance has remained the same. Tailoring, tartan check, military, western ... the clothes, with a renewed focus on the men's wardrobe, are beautiful and elegant in the Driesian sense. When Dries himself came out in the finale, I was moved, overlapping with the last scene of the movie, and felt the greatness of continuing.

COMME des GARCONS JUNYA WATANABE MAN" rethinks traditional men's clothing and reconstructs not only the design but also the functionality. The theme of this year's exhibition is "Functional Decoration. The inspiration comes from the beauty of details designed for specific purposes, such as functional uniforms to protect oneself in unusual situations and special tools. The reflectors on various items are symbolic, and tweed jackets that transform into helmet bags and packable down coats were also introduced. Furthermore, the brand is known for its collaborations. This time, Canada Goose, The North Face, Calimar, Filson, Grover All, Carhartt, New Balance, Heinrich Dinkelacker, and Tricker's were all represented. It is indeed a feat to work with such a large number of brands in one season.

The venue for the runway show was the "Grand Palais" built for the 1900 Paris Exposition. The staircase-like spectator seats on either side of the straight runway were packed. The excitement was so great that one could feel the popularity of "Y-3" even before the show began. The theme of the collection was "Nice to meet you," a return to the roots. In addition to the iconic three-line design, the entire collection was accented with Yohji Yamamoto's signature floral designs. Particularly noticeable was the size of the outerwear. They were originally made to be loose-fitting, but this time they were even more so. It can be said that even in the midst of the exaggerated size, it is indeed a very good thing that there is no sense of discomfort. It is loose, but still has a certain elegance. The size range has also been revised, and the XXL size will be changed to a M size. I looked up "Y-3" again, and found that this year marks the 15th anniversary of its birth. Since it matches the mood of the times, it seems likely that Y-3 will continue to be popular for many years to come.

Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh™" is one of the most active brands in the world today. The theme of this collection is "BUSINESS CASUAL. As the theme suggests, formal wear such as suits, tailored jackets, and slacks, which have not been seen in the past, have increased dramatically. Virgil Abloh's message is that he wants young people to wear formal clothes as well. He also proposed many coordinated outfits, such as a nylon coat or parka worn with a tie, or a suit and a sweatshirt, which are not worn as they are, but are rather worn in a different way. During the Paris Men's Collection, there were rumors that Virgil might take on the men's collection for Louis Vuitton, but I was really surprised when he was appointed artistic director a few months later.

I'm interested in "Jil Sander. It is not flashy, but it reminds me of Jil Sander's original cool design with a sense of serenity, like when he was working on his own clothes. . It looks simple at first glance, but you can feel the warmth in the use of materials and the patterns of the clothes. I felt that the brand itself had been stagnant for a few years until Luke, the designer of OAMC, and Lucy, who has studied at various brands, took over as creative directors, but I have the impression that the brand has made a strong comeback since they became the creative directors. I am convinced of this after seeing this collection. The collection was centered on minimalist design clothes with changes in materials , accented with bags and neck warmers. The coordination of similar colors is also impressive. The collection's look photos were taken by Anders Edström, a photographer who has shot for Maison Martin Margiela and Purple magazine in the past , which is also a must-see.

This season, "ISSEY MIYAKE MEN" was especially wonderful. A red nylon coat, a swing top worn with slacks, a down jacket in the shape of an MA-1... There were many clothes with a somewhat sporty atmosphere that I wanted to try on, without being overpowering in design. The slightly loose fit and the color combinations of the coordinated pieces proposed at the show were also well thought out and beautiful. The theme was "In the Whirlwind of Urban Life. The collection was inspired by the diverse sensibilities of urban life, and proposed relaxed yet sophisticated and functional work wear. It has already been five years since Yusuke Takahashi, who was 27 years old at the time, became the designer. Within the historical "ISSEY MIYAKE," we can feel that he is sincerely creating in a context that is different from street fashion. Now, "ISSEY MIYAKE MEN" seems to be attracting attention once again.

The contrast between the voluminous outerwear and body-hugging bottoms was impressive at the "Haider Ackermann" show. Oversized clothes will continue to be a trend this fall/winter season, but instead of creating loose-fitting coordinates, we can sense that the clothes are made with careful calculation. Effortless" is the keyword this time. Oriental elements that Haider has long favored appear throughout the collection, such as gown-like coats reminiscent of kimono, zip-up blousons with jacquard floral patterns, and Chinese hats. As in the past, the collection focuses on items that make full use of tight tailoring and military elements, but there is also a sense of sexiness throughout the collection. It is only Haider Ackermann who can show this sexiness in an elegant and beautiful way, rather than in an obnoxious way.

Traditional, street, military, work, etc., the overwhelming creation is a deconstruction and mixing of various clothing elements. With each collection, Sakai's clothes seem to become more dynamic and full of impact. Other brands have crossed different elements, but Sakai's approach is bold and iconic. I feel that it makes the brand unique. This season, there are jackets that combine different military details like a border, aran knits mixed with cricket sweaters, and coveralls that look like they were taken apart and reconstructed. In addition, there is a down jacket with a Hawaiian pattern by "Lainspooner". The designs transcended not only the genre of clothing, but also the season, and could be called a new proposal. In the shoes category, sheepskin boots made in collaboration with "UGG" are also available. They have a unique design that looks as if it has socks built in.

Creating clothes with a story. I strongly felt this in this season's "OAMC" collection. The subject is two artists who participated in World War II as soldiers. Joseph Beuys, who served in the German Luftwaffe, and Ellsworth Kelly, who served in the U.S. Army. For example, the felt shirt in the first look was inspired by the fact that when Beuys was shot down over the Crimean Peninsula and injured, he was wrapped in felt and nursed by nomads. Also, the transparent silk organdy military-style coat was inspired by the Special Forces Unit attached to the 23rd Headquarters, known as the "Ghost Army," to which Kelly was assigned, which conducted deception operations. There is a solid reason for the design, and it is indeed a beautiful piece of clothing that makes you want to wear it. This is one of those brands that will likely make even greater strides in the future, depending on how it develops.

The runway show was held at "The Docks - City of Fashion and Design" along the Seine River in Paris . The collection presented in the iconic yellow-green building, reminiscent of a snake, was a true representation of Paul Smith's beautiful British tailoring, which has its origins in Savile Row. At first glance, the coats and jackets looked simple, but upon closer inspection, the combination of different patterns and materials was a perfect example of the saltiness of the design. When you actually try them on, you will notice that they are sharp, yet long, and classically made. Furthermore, the psychedelic motifs and brightly colored setups add a nice touch. Such designs express Optimism (optimism), and Paul Smith's message is to forget about the anxiety and anguish that everyone has.

Agnès b. is one of the brands that we want to pay attention to once again. The reason for this is that while street fashion is taking the world by storm, agnès b. is still true to its own style. Trends are important in fashion, but the "timeless" fashion that agnès b. proposes is also very appealing. It is not flashy, but I can see why it has been loved for so long. Last year, I wore a dress by Agnes BAY,Interview in HOUYHNHNM.When I visited the show, Agnès BAY himself was a natural and very nice person. His stance remains unchanged in the fall/winter collection. The collection, which was inspired by men's clothing from various eras, featured styles that evoked elements of his favorite culture, such as movies and music. The collection naturally conveys a nonchalant atmosphere.

Have you heard of "Nama Czech"? It is an up-and-coming brand that has been called the second "Raf Simons," and was started in 2015 by Kurdish brothers Dian and Rezan Lure, who also serve as designers. The brand's production is handled by a factory in Antwerp, where numerous maison brands have commissioned the brand, and its 2017 fall/winter collection was first sold by the famous Parisian boutique "The Broken Arm" (......). It is easy to see how high expectations are for the brand. The collection presented in this context is impressive for its unique use of color, which was inspired by the works of the painter France Bacon. The seemingly simple shirt has buttons in an unusual shape, and the ribbed knitwear also has a deformed front, giving the impression of a unique and somewhat inflected aesthetic. As stated in the release that the brand pays homage to the optimism of Kurdish designers, it conveys an atmosphere of respect for one's own roots.

DUBLET" is undoubtedly the Japanese brand that is currently attracting the most anticipation and attention. It is a gateway to success for young designers.News of the Grand Prix of the "LVMH PrizeMany fashion insiders were surprised by the "Huinamu" brand. HOUYHNHNM's has been introducing the brand's trends, and its creations, which combine a sense of parody and humor, have a great impact. The designs are cool, but if you look closely, you can't help but chuckle. The award is sure to bring more and more fans to the brand. The theme of the fall/winter collection is "Ready-to-Where? . This word was coined by changing "Ready-to-Wear" to "Where?" in a play on words to describe ready-to-wear clothing. It is a play on words, coined from the phrase "Ready-to-Wear" which stands for ready-to-wear clothes, and "Where? The lineup includes clothes with an unexpectedness that makes you want to ask, "Where are you going to wear this? A leopard print jacket with a leopard face on the back, pants reminiscent of hamburger wrappers ... these are just a few of the items that have captured our hearts this season!