Independent Converse. A three-way collaboration clad in new values.
This year marks 110 years since the company was founded. CONVERSE" was born in Massachusetts, U.S.A. as a shoe brand. The company's great achievements in the fashion scene need no longer be explained. The brand has created numerous masterpieces, notably the All Star, and has collaborated with various designers and brands. Kentaro Fukuda of GOOD OL', Pigu of TENBOX, and Yasuyuki Murayama of F-LAGSTUF-F were in charge of the design. We invited these designers, who embrace an independent spirit, to talk about the birth stories of the three "new classic" models.
Three Converse models clad in unprecedented, new values.
From left: [CONVERSE x 10 sagger] sneakers ¥11,000, [CONVERSE x GOOD OL'] sneakers ¥14,000 + tax, [CONVERSE x F-LAGSTUF-F] sneakers ¥14,000 + tax
Three brands with an independent spirit collaborated with Converse. While the base model still exists, a new item never seen before has been completed with a drastic rearrangement of the base model. The three models pay homage to the heritage of the past, while at the same time showing a spirit of moving forward. How did these items come to be? We trace the story behind them.
Left: Pigu / 10 saggars
After working as a store staff at a select store, he launched in 2017. He has built his own community and actively collaborates with artists in Japan and abroad.
Middle: Kentaro Fukuda / GOOD OL'
In 2007, he established the brand "Goodall," which incorporates what he thinks is good into items with a background in American culture. Recently, he has also been involved in the direction of select stores.
Right: Yasuyuki Murayama / F-LAGSTUF-F
After working as a buyer for a vintage store in Harajuku, he started "Flagstaff" in 2014. His creations are based on music and street culture.
It's better to have a live experience if there are things you don't understand.
How did this project begin?
rice field used to grow cropsIt all started with a conversation between myself and the brand manager. Because Converse is a large brand, the number of lots that must be produced in a single project is large. Therefore, until now, it was impossible to collaborate with a brand unless it had a large amount of capital. We were talking about how we thought we could do something more interesting if we collaborated with a young brand.
So you had a dilemma because it is a big brand.
rice field used to grow cropsHowever, I had the idea that it would be feasible if some select store would stand in between the two. I had an idea.
I see. So that's why you decided to go with "Journal Standard"?
rice field used to grow cropsThat's right. So I talked to the director and he said, "Okay, let's do it.
Why did you decide to include two other brands, 10 Sagger and Flagstaff, in addition to Goodall?
rice field used to grow cropsThese were the two brands that came to my mind when I thought of young brands. However, neither of us is young at all (laughs).
It means the brand is young (laughs).
mountain villageAs I mentioned earlier, it is not easy to collaborate with "Converse" on the scale of our brand, and I thought it would be interesting to have the two of you together.
PiguI had collaborated with indie brands before, but never with a global brand like Converse, and the timing was right when I wanted to do it, so I was simply happy to be asked.
However, did you feel any kind of pressure because it was so big?
mountain villageNot at all. Rather, it was the excitement of being able to do something that I normally would not be able to do.
Did you all have much contact with each other on a regular basis to begin with?
rice field used to grow cropsNo, that's not true. Lately, I have often thought that I don't really want to work with a group of good friends. It would only result in a kind of scheduled creation. Of course, we are not bad friends, but we keep a good distance from each other.
PiguIt's not like going out to play on your days off or going out for drinks after work, where you feel like you know each other.
rice field used to grow cropsI think it is better to do manufacturing in such a relationship. There is a sense of tension, and it is more interesting when there are things that cannot be seen, such as what kind of method will be used and what kind of product will be created. It is more interesting when there are things that cannot be seen.
I see. So that was your intention, too.
rice field used to grow cropsIn addition, working with "Journal Standard" was a new experience for me. I don't feel like I'm going to work with a company I've done business with before in a sticky relationship. Anyway, I thought it would be more live if there were things I didn't know about, and I thought that would have a positive impact on the items.
Our stance is to "make what we want to make," without flattering the masses.
After the project actually kicked off, did you have a lot of creative freedom as you worked on the design?
rice field used to grow cropsIn the beginning, it was not so. Because of the large number of lots involved, I think that past special orders and collaborations were designed for the sake of sales. However, there was no point in doing that, and it would be out of line with our original concept. That is why we had to communicate what we wanted to do to Converse. We had to ask ourselves, "Can we really do this? I had to ask myself, "Can we really do it? In that sense, the sneakers made by Pigu are not in their original form (laughs). (Laughs) But that's the beauty of it.
Indeed, all three models in this issue show the spirit of creating something new.
PiguI have never designed for customers. My stance has always been to create what I think people want.
mountain villageI am the same way. I just made what I wanted to make.
rice field used to grow cropsI think that all three of these items give a sense of freedom that we have never seen before. As a global brand, there are many regulations on what can and cannot be done, but I think the people in charge at Converse were very flexible.
The theme of this skid grip is "travel," a theme that will never be seen again.
I understand that the original "10 saggars" item was a deck-type "skid grip," but as Mr. Fukuda mentioned earlier, it is no longer that.
PiguThe theme of "travel" is at the base of my creations, so I was conscious of that. I really wanted to make slip-on shoes that are easy to put on and take off when you wake up in a motel room or when you come out of the ocean. I often go to Los Angeles and skate with the locals, so I added an ollie guard for that purpose. Also, I only wear black shoes. It's a hassle to think about coordinating them (laughs). (Laughs) That's why I chose black shoes this time, too.
rice field used to grow cropsThese are no longer "Converse," are they? It's that brand's slip-ons.
PiguYes... (chuckles).
all of us(Laughter)
PiguThe "Skid Grip" does not usually have a heel part, but I added one and made the heel patch red, just the way I like it (laughs).
I'm amazed you made it happen.
rice field used to grow cropsWe won't be able to do this item again, but we really did it well (laughs).
The ALL STAR 100 is perfect for going to festivals and wearing out.
What were the main points of consideration in the design of "Goodall"?
rice field used to grow cropsI based my design on the "ALL STAR 100," which was created when All Star celebrated its 100th anniversary. The insole is slightly wider than the normal All Star, and the insole uses a cushioned sole called "REACT".
I see.
rice field used to grow cropsWhen we started out, we wanted to keep the price in the 10,000 yen to low 10,000 yen range. There aren't many shoes on sale that you can wear out at festivals and other events and get dirty. I was having trouble finding items that were just right for the occasion.
Rather than wearing them beautifully on the street, do you mean that you imagine them to be worn in a hard environment without hesitation?
rice field used to grow cropsThat's right. So, of course, we wanted them to be waterproof, so we used "Scotchgard™" water-repellent suede as the fabric. We also often use fluorescent colors as a brand icon, so we expressed this in the laces and heel patch.
PiguIt's still better than the inline All-Stars, which have more atmosphere.
mountain villageI can imagine Fukuda-san wearing these while camping or at a festival.
Stars & Bars was designed from the unique perspective of a former vintage buyer.
Finally, what did you have in mind when designing "Flagstaff"?
mountain villageThis is a model called "Stars & Bars. I often wear the "One Star" skate shoes from Converse's skate line distributed overseas, and I used a longer-than-usual suede in the image of those shoes. In addition, I used to work as a buyer at a vintage clothing store, so I wanted to create something that you couldn't find even if you were looking for the original. The "Stars & Bars" model is from the 60's, but it's a rare item that doesn't turn up very often. So I would be happy if you feel a sense of elation when you pick up this pair.
Are there any specific design points?
mountain villageI wanted the sneakers to have a luxurious feel so that they could be worn both on and off the job, so I chose a monotone color scheme. I wanted to create a scene where you could wear these sneakers with a set-up to a wedding party. That's why I used gold for the eyelets. On the other hand, the sole is a fluorescent color to make it stand out. So, I gave them a retro feel in that way.
rice field used to grow cropsThis is cool.
PiguYes, it's good.
The sense of a dark pot without meetings turned out to be a good thing.
I heard that you made not only shoes but also apparel and accessories this time.
mountain villageWe decided to create an outfit together to match the shoes. The items were broken up so that each brand could be mixed and matched.
From left to right: [10 sagger] paper jacket ¥37,700+TAX, paper hat ¥8,800+TAX, [F-LAGSTUF-F] nylon vintage pants ¥28,000+TAX, belt ¥5,000+TAX, [GOOD OL' × PORTER] bag ¥22,000+TAX GOOD OL' × PORTER bag ¥22,000+TAX
It is a gorgeous project to design clothing as well, whereas normally we would just make shoes and be done with it.
rice field used to grow cropsI like the large pocketbook of "Journal Standard" and also the dark pot. No one directed this project. In other words, the design was a game of "go for it and see what comes out." There was no one saying, "Goodior will make something like this, so we want 10 saggars and Flagstaff to do this," and there was no mutual interference in the design process. I think that turned out to be a good thing.
PiguWe didn't rub them together, and that's what made them so dense.
rice field used to grow cropsAll three of us use black suede, but that's just by chance. It's also a coincidence that the prototype models naturally fell apart.
GOOD OL' × 10 sagger × F-LAGSTUF-F〉Hoodie ¥25,000＋TAX
Only this parka is a triple name of three brands.
rice field used to grow cropsIt's totally about making memories. Well, it's just that there won't be many opportunities for the three of us to do this together in the future (laughs).
How did you go about the design process?
rice field used to grow cropsMe and Pigu didn't do anything, did we?
PiguYes, it is.
So Mr. Murayama is almost all by himself?
mountain villageYes, we do. All three of us often go camping, to festivals, and on trips. So we thought it would be better to have lots of pockets, so we designed it that way.
piguIt has elements of all three brands in a good way, doesn't it? The silhouette is from Flagstaff, the fabric and color of the pockets are from Goodall, and the pocket details are from 10 sagger.
mountain villageI drew the design and showed it to him, and he gave me an instant approval (laughs).
rice field used to grow cropsYou are a genius. I was amazed at how fast you worked.
mountain villageI had always wanted to make this kind of clothing, and I had been accumulating ideas within myself. That's why I was able to make it quickly.
The perfect distance produced a good thing.
Finally, how do you feel about this initiative?
mountain villageI would love to do it again.
rice field used to grow cropsIt's not often you get a chance like this.
mountain villageCollaborations are usually done independently, but the presence of Mr. Fukuda and Mr. Pigu stimulated me, and I feel that my desire to create something good became stronger.
PiguIndeed. I enjoyed seeing ideas and unique perspectives that I didn't have.
rice field used to grow cropsI knew you liked the unfamiliar feeling.
PiguWe didn't go out drinking.
rice field used to grow cropsIt's better not to do that. I feel that the exquisite sense of distance between the three of us produced something good. I would like to keep this kind of tension in my work, not only this time but also in the future.
JOURNAL STANDARD Omotesando
Address: 6-7-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Phone: 03-6418-7961
Open: 11:00 - 20:00 (irregular holidays)
Instagram:@jounalstandard.com journal-standard.com/
All items other than shoes will be available at JOURNAL STANDARD OMOTESANDO and online at JOURNAL STANDARD in BAYCREW'S STORE and ZOZO TOWN.
