Stylist's take on autumn style with Dr. Martens. Dr. Martens for fall style.
Since its establishment in 1960, "Dr. Martens" has been loved by musicians all over the world and has become a symbol of UK culture beyond the realm of a shoe brand. The brand's popularity continues to grow in Japan as well, and the three stylists who appeared in this issue are, as usual, good friends and enthusiasts of the brand. These fashionable people showed us their self-styling with a pair of shoes from this fall's new collection as the star of the show. We will convey the appeal of "Dr. Martens" while weaving together their seasonal outfits and thoughts on the brand.
In those days in the 80's , everyone around me seemed to be wearing London culture all over their bodies.
After working as a sales representative at a major select store, she studied under stylist Haruhisa Shirayama in 2005 . He became independent in 2008. He has styled for fashion magazines, brand catalogs, advertisements, actors, and artists. His original world view expressed by his sense of originality and vast knowledge backed up by his experience has gained tremendous support from the fashion scene in Japan and abroad. Last year, he launched his own private brand, "R.M GANG. He is also a self-confessed "Dr. Martens" enthusiast, with over 30 pairs of shoes in his personal collection, including not a few rare models that are now hard to find.
I heard that you have a huge collection of "Dr. Martens." When did you start collecting them?
Takahashi.I have always loved music, and that is exactly how I was influenced by London culture from a young age, so to say that it was inevitable would be an overstatement, but I naturally began to collect it. . I would buy them whenever I visited my home country, England, for work or on vacation, and I would also dig through vintage clothing stores in Japan.
Last year, when I was in charge of styling for the "Dr. Martens" collection show, I thought it would be uninteresting to have the customers wear brand-new shoes, so I had them wear all vintage models, and at that time, I was so desperate to find vintage shoes all over the country. Even now, I still have more than 30 pairs.
Do you still remember the first time you wore a "Dr. Martens" model?
Takahashi.I think I was about 19 years old. At that time, my interest was shifting from American culture to British culture, and I was listening to BLUR and The Stone Roses, etc. I knew that they had 3-hole and 8-hole Martins at their feet. I knew that they had 3-hole or 8-hole Martins on their feet. I guess that's when I started to like wearing them.
How did Lambda herself dress at the time?
Takahashi.At the time, London Night was being held at Tsubaki House in Shinjuku, and culture magazines such as "i-D" had arrived in Japan, so everyone around me was clad in London culture. People around me were all clad in London culture. They would wear riders with their pants rolled up, and their martins with the laces tightened, like a punk bandage.
How did you feel when you tried on the model you chose for this project?
Takahashi.I have worn a lot of the so-called "standard" models in the past, so I thought it would be good to try something that would be a bit of a challenge. In particular, I used to wear 10-hole boots a lot in the past, but I haven't had much opportunity to wear them recently, so they were new to me. The buckle strap design is also interesting because it can be rearranged depending on how you wear them.
To enjoy and express oneself in one's own unique way by arranging and playing with such things as hitting studs, attaching key chains, and so on.
You also did some self-styling for us this time, what are the key points of the outfits?
Takahashi.The theme is the punks of the 80's and 90's, a time when our generation was very passionate about punks. The buffalo check pattern is a symbol of that time. Jackets are short and bottoms are high-waisted, which is very current, and I'm in the mood to wear them with a set-up. As for the feet, I would say boot-twins for a 10-hole jacket. They really make a difference.
For example, if you were styling a garment in addition to wearing it yourself, how would you propose to dress it?
Takahashi.I don't think of "Dr. Martens" as a special item, so I would like to wear them as an everyday item. In the past, "Dr. Martens" tended to be worn in a cosplay-like manner, so it would be nice if I could create a look that would dispel that image.
Also, Ms. Lambda, do you have any particular style of "Dr. Martens" that you prefer when you wear them?
Takahashi.For example, is it to enjoy and express oneself in one's own way by arranging and playing with things such as studding or attaching key chains? . This leads to individuality of style, and is also inspired by real punks. Furthermore, I think this is the part that is linked to the philosophy of the brand.
What kind of brand is "Dr. Martens" to you?
Takahashi.At first, there was an image of a work boot brand with an antithetical British mindset. Now, the brand has collaborated with Supreme and has come to have a stronger image as a fashion brand, with a distinctive collection each season.
Bevan shoes by Dr. Martens, ¥28,000; jacket by R.M GANG; bottoms by R.M GANG; knit cap by Base MFG; sunglasses by MYKITA
Bevan
These long boots have a 10-hole measurement, which is even longer than the brand's iconic 8-hole. The design is impressive in that the buckle strap is wrapped around the body instead of laces. In addition, the moderately processed leather gives the boots a dignified and dignified appearance. This is a pair that can be rearranged depending on the wearer.
STYLIST_02 Masataka Hattori
Dr. Martens" can be worn with the ankles out to express one's own style.
After studying under Keita Inotsuka, he became independent in 2012 . His main work is styling for fashion magazines, advertisements, and brand catalogs, transcending the boundaries between men's and women's fashion, as well as providing costumes for artists' music videos and actors appearing in TV commercials and commercials. In recent years, he has also directed styling for Umit Benin at the Tokyo Collections and the BED j.w. FORD runway at Pitti Womo. He is one of the most sought-after stylists in the industry. As a sneaker collector himself, Dr. Martens have a special place in his heart, and he is a master of the art of wearing them.
When did you first become interested in fashion?
Ministry of Revenue (Tang-dynasty China)I had always liked clothes since I was a student, and I had seen iconic people in magazines and on TV, but I was from a rural town in Shizuoka, so at that time, it was just a mere admiration for them. . It was not until I was a university student in Tokyo that I became seriously involved. While studying law, I was a member of the nighttime basketball team, and in between I started strolling through the clothing stores in Shibuya and Harajuku, and I started to vaguely think that one day I would like to make a career out of it," he says.
I see. So that's about the time when you decided to become a stylist?
Ministry of Revenue (Tang-dynasty China)Yes, that's right. One day, I was watching a magazine and Keita's page caught my eye. He had a unique aura, an edginess that I could not find anywhere else, and I was drawn to him at first sight. So I immediately applied for the job. Unlike today, all stylists at that time had a sense of talent and were popular like idols. It may be a misnomer to say that I was a fan, but I felt like one. After that, I worked as an assistant for five years, then went out on my own, and here I am today.
Among them, were there any models of "Dr. Martens" that you used in the past?
Ministry of Revenue (Tang-dynasty China)It's a classic, but I would have to say the "1461" 3-hole. I used to like short leather shoes, and I can express my own style by wearing them with my ankles out. Lately, I wear short wide pants almost every day, so they also go well with my outfits.
Do you remember when you wore your first pair of "Dr. Martens"?
Ministry of Revenue (Tang-dynasty China)I only wore sneakers when I was in high school , so I guess I was in college. I think I was wearing 3-hole shoes then, too. When I used to go to thrift stores, I would find a pair of "Dr. Martens" monkey boots and buy them immediately, and I still have them today. There are some models that are so rare that the brand's people would probably be surprised to see them.
. So it makes sense that the model you have chosen this time is the "1461" series. What did you think of the items when you actually saw them?
Ministry of Revenue (Tang-dynasty China)I think yellow stitching is the standard for "Dr. Martens," but this model has white stitching. I chose this model because I thought it was fresh. I thought the monotone color would go well with my recent outfits.
I don't think there is a brand other than "Dr. Martens" that can even have political connotations.
In addition, this time you also asked us to wear the shoes in a self-styling session.
Ministry of Revenue (Tang-dynasty China). As I mentioned earlier, I am personally in the mood to wear wide pants of about 9' length with the 3-holes. And since it is a traditional item, I am conscious of wearing it with a tailored coat and shirt for a classy fall look. . Then there are the laces. Whenever I wear "Dr. Martens," my rule is to tie them straight.
Do you wear them yourself, or do you choose a different model when styling for work?
Ministry of Revenue (Tang-dynasty China)Of course it changes. For myself, I only wear 3-holes now, but I often use 8-holes when styling. If I have a slim model or bottoms that can be easily hemmed, I'll tie them up tight and have her wear them without booties.
By the way, when do you usually feel like wearing "Dr. Martens"?
Ministry of Revenue (Tang-dynasty China)In my opinion, "Dr. Martens" are right in between sneakers and leather shoes. They are a pair of leather shoes that can be worn as if they were sneakers, and can be worn both casually and formally. As proof, the airy bouncing sole adds to the casual look. Also, "Dr. Martens" are addictive. If I haven't worn them for a while, I find myself wanting to wear them again, and if I like them, I keep wearing them for a while.
Finally, what kind of brand image do you have of "Dr. Martens"?
Ministry of Revenue (Tang-dynasty China)In a word, it is a symbol of the rebellious spirit of England. I'm not sure if it exists anymore, but I heard that there was a time when the color of the shoe body and laces was considered a sign of racism, and I don't think there is any other brand other than "Dr. Martens" that can have such political connotations. I feel that there is no other brand but "Dr. Martens" that can give such political connotations to its shoes.
Dr. Martens shoes "1461" ¥21,000, HED MAYNER coat, DRIES VAN NOTEN shirt, Yohji Yamamoto bottoms, Yohji Yamamoto knit cap, CHROME HEARTS necklace by CHROME HEARTS
1461
Next to the 8-hole boot, this is the latest model in the brand's signature "1461" series. The air-cushioned bouncing sole, realized through a unique manufacturing process, is of course a must-have, and the smooth leather, which can be enjoyed as it ages, offers a sense of functional beauty. The yellow stitching has been changed to white, and the monotone color is a major feature of this model.
STYLIST_03 TEPPEI
I decided to find my own way to wear them freely, and I have been wearing the standard model since that time.
A popular stylist with a unique background who once graced the covers of many street snap magazines and made his screen debut as an actor. From the start of his career to the present, he is known for his styling work for various famous artists. Recently, he has been expanding his activities by working for various fashion magazines, brand catalogs, and advertisements for both women and men. He is known for his mix-and-match styling that represents the 00's, incorporating everything from vintage clothing to high fashion, and is a logical thinker with an insatiable pursuit of his own expression.
. First of all, I would like to ask you about your recent situation. Have there been any changes in your work recently?
TEPPEISpeaking of a change in external visibility, in the past, in styling an artist, the artist's name value was inevitably significant and such work was often featured, but recently, even in editorial work other than advertising, such as magazines and catalogs, I feel that I am finally However, I think that recently, editorial work other than advertisements, such as magazines and catalogs, is finally gaining recognition. However, I have been doing such work for a long time as well.
Have you had much exposure to the Dr. Martens brand in your recent work?
TEPPEIYes, I do. For example, last fall/winter, I styled a brand's runway with "Dr. Martens" on the models throughout the entire show. I often wear "Dr. Martens" not only on such occasions, but also on a regular basis. It is a brand that I personally like.
What other models did TEPPEI himself wear in the past?
TEPPEIOf course, the "1461" series, which is also a standard item, is one of my favorites, as well as wingtip models and loafers. In my private life, I sometimes wear them in different colors.
Do you remember the first time you wore a pair of "Dr. Martens"?
TEPPEII don't remember if it was high school or vocational school, but I remember a classmate of mine at the time wearing a style of dress inspired by the movie "A Clockwork Orange," and I was very shocked by his style. At the time, however, I did not feel comfortable wearing a style that had its roots in the movie, but the impact was so great that I decided to find my own way to wear them freely, and I remember buying and wearing the standard "Dr. Martens" 3-hole shoes from that time. I remember that I bought a pair of "Dr. Martens" 3-hole shoes, which were the standard at the time, and wore them, trying to find my own way to wear them freely.
Because the shoes themselves have character, the best way to wear them is to make sure that their individuality is well-defined.
By the way, what did you think of the model you selected this time when you actually saw the item?
TEPPEII think it is rare to find a model with a harness belt like this in "Dr. Martens" shoes. I was first attracted by the decorative design, and when I actually tried them on, I found that the side gore design made them very easy to put on and take off. . This is quite convenient for us in our profession, where we often take them off and on at work.
You actually wore those models with your self-styling, do you have any tips on how to wear them?
TEPPEISince the shoes themselves have their own character, I thought it would be best to wear them in a way that would emphasize their individuality, so this time I was conscious of styling them in a neutral way with a street essence. Personally, I think it is just right to wear them with more everyday outfits, rather than punk or traditional outfits.
TEPPEI, what kind of occasions do you usually want to wear "Dr. Martens" shoes?
TEPPEII often wear sneakers in my daily life, and this is one of the few brands that I can wear like that. They retain a classical mood, but can be worn casually. Or, since there are many iconic models, I enjoy wearing them as a uniform.
Finally, what does the brand "Dr. Martens" mean to you?
TEPPEIBecause the brand is firmly rooted in the background of London culture, including punk rock, it has a different persuasive power when worn than other brands. The brand's versatility in covering everything from neutral to traditional outfits is also an appealing feature. In my opinion, it is like a partner that accompanies me in my daily life.
Dr. Martens "Fulmar" shoes, ¥24,000; Gosha Rubchinskiy sweatshirt; bal bottoms; USED knit cap; DITA sunglasses.
Fulmar.
Based on the well-known and popular "1461″ series, a new pair with a distinctive harness belt inspired by biker boots and combat boots has appeared. The robust and durable gut-ear welt manufacturing method is used, and the side gore specification allows for easy on/off. The design is full of punk spirit, but with a modern finish.