Three connoisseurs lecture on the Wild Things Monster Parka.
Wild Things" has established a solid position as an outdoor brand. On the other hand, did you know that Wild Things is also active as a supplier of military wear to the U.S. military? This season, we have prepared a masterpiece "Monster Parka" from among such military wear. We asked three of the industry's leading connoisseurs of this item to appear on the show and talk about the charms of the "Monster Parka" with their own styling.
The quality could not be better for winter clothes.
We heard that you created the look visuals for this season's "Wild Things." How did you come up with the idea to do this?
SuzukiIn my recent work, I have been emphasizing the importance of how to convey the brand image in my styling work, and I have often made proposals from the standpoint of such direction and marketing. So when I was approached by an agent of "Wild Things" about presenting this season's collection, which includes many military and outdoor products, as street wear, we decided to work together.
Did you have anything in particular in mind when you were styling?
SuzukiI have been familiar with the brand for a long time, and I still use the classic models such as the "Denali Jacket," so I was conscious of not losing the background of the brand while keeping in mind the image that is typical of "Wild Things" for our generation. However, since we are proposing military wear as street wear, we have tried to be creative in the way the clothes are worn, such as by focusing on basic items and including items with a sporting element. Also, we used Japanese models so that the customers would feel a sense of familiarity with them.
The theme was to appeal as a familiar brand that could be worn on a daily basis.
SuzukiYes, that's right. It was also the time to rebrand the brand, so the key was how to convey the future of "Wild Things" to young people and people in the fashion industry, while retaining the good points of "Wild Things" up to now. I feel that the "Monster Parka" played a leading role in this process.
In doing so, how did you feel when you actually saw and touched the "Monster Parka"?
SuzukiFirst of all, in terms of the look and feel, I felt that it was a design that would sell well. It retains the iconic details of the original, but also feels modern and updated with its silhouette, pocket placement, and this season's reflector logo. Also, it is not limited to the basic color of black, but also comes in a variety of earth colors such as beige and leaf, which also fit the trend. Comfort goes without saying. It's the best quality winter wear you can get, you know.
Are there any details that you particularly like?
Suzuki. It has a lot of storage capacity. The inside mesh pocket is large enough to hold an iPad or a 12-inch laptop. The brand's theme of "lightweight yet tough" is also a key point. I would recommend this bag to those who like to go without a bag.
Is the atmosphere different from that of "Wild Things" when you used to patronize it?
SuzukiYes, that's right. My generation had an even stronger image of the outdoors than today. When I was in my 20s, I would go to select stores to buy items that had just arrived. At that time, it was still a bit on the fussy side, and I think only a few people wore it as a fashion item. I think it was only after the introduction of the tactical line that people started to pay attention to them.
You have also made a splash with your collaborations with various fashion brands.
SuzukiI can't help but think of Mr. Ohana of "N Hollywood" and Mr. Fujii of "Non-native". . The impression of the brand has changed drastically from the days when it was imported from the United States. . The colors are not the sophisticated black and white, nor the basic gray and navy. The earthy beige, olive, and charcoal colors as the symbolic colors of the brand matched the times, and it seems that the brand quickly became a hot topic on the fashion scene, didn't it?
The "Monster Parka" is in a reasonable price range this time around.
SuzukiWhen the "Monster Parka" was popular in the vintage clothing market, it was expensive. Moreover, there were only a few of them, so they were rare. Even now, there are probably many people looking for one, and because it is so versatile, it's a good idea to have one in the house because it is such a useful outerwear item.
Recently, the number of stores where they are deployed has been increasing, and you see more and more of them on the street.
Suzuki. You have a wide range of stores, from select stores such as BEAMS, SHIPS, and ADAM ET ROPÉ to outdoor stores such as Oshmans and Sola. Among the growing number of outdoor brands, I feel that "Wild Things" is particularly strong.
As a stylist, do you have any suggestions for styling examples of the Monster Parka that are easy to incorporate, apart from the visual look?
SuzukiI think it is interesting to wear it oversized like a mod coat. The recent trend is toward wide silhouette pants, but I dare you to try balancing it out with slim bottoms, or play with the layered length. At first, the exquisite volume and sizing may seem strange if you are not used to it, but if you know what you are doing, you will be able to see how sophisticated you are.
Finally, on behalf of the consumer, do you have any expectations for the brand?
SuzukiThis issue features the "Monster Parka" and unravels its appeal, but I am also looking forward to seeing updated versions of the other signature pieces of "Wild Things". I believe that authentic military wear that can be worn around town will be in increasing demand in the future. I also personally think it would be great to have tactical pants that are easy to match with the "Monster Parka," so I have high expectations for that lineup as well.
Monster Parka ¥38,000+TAX
A high-gauge half-zip knit and chic slacks are worn in a traditional style. Sneakers are worn on the feet, but the Monster Parka, worn like a down jacket, has a moderate presence. The black color, which blends well with the outfit, is perfect for an adult style.
I think they look great with elegant knitwear and traditional slacks. It is good for the younger generation to wear it as an oversilhouette outerwear, but I think it is also good for our generation to wear it with more mature outfits.
Hajime Suzuki / Stylist
. Born in Tokyo in 1976. After graduating from college, worked as a salesperson at a select store before studying under stylist Kazunori Masukan. Later, at the age of 29, he became an independent stylist and has styled numerous actors and artists, mainly for fashion magazines and brand catalogs. Recently, he has also been directing and consulting for brands, and was in charge of directing and styling the visuals for this season's "Wild Things" look. In addition to fashion, he is an active outdoor enthusiast, and is also known as a self-professed football fanatic, having won the national championship in college.
Monster Parka is a complete product , with no room for improvement.
. I would like to start by asking Mr. Moriyama about his first encounter with "Monster Parka".
forested mountainI bought my first "Monster Parka" around 2006, when it first appeared in Japan. I bought it from my friend Kuri (Mr. Kurihara), who is also the director of MR. After that, I liked it so much that I bought several more, and I think I still have three or four of them at home.
What was your impression of the "Monster Parka" when you first saw it?
forested mountain. At the time, the idea of a fishtail-type outerwear with padding was fresh. I think the material used was PrimaLoft from that time, but it was a functional material, and when I tried it on, it was surprisingly comfortable. The design also had wide arms and body, but that was designed as outerwear to be worn over outerwear, wasn't it? It makes sense, doesn't it? I can feel the details of these clothes with a proper background, and I think they look good even when I look at them again now.
That's a vintage clothing lover's point of view. By the way, what kind of items did you often wear it with at that time?
forested mountainI rarely wore blue denim in the past, and often paired it with tight leather pants or black denim. The models of that time had more volume than the current models, and the body fell down and the length was longer, so I was conscious of the balance of layering and upper/lower sizing. At that time, I mainly used vintage clothing for my styling, but now it seems like it would be a good idea to mix and match items from your favorite brands as well as vintage clothing.
I see. Compared to the models of that time, what is your impression of the "Monster Parka" by Wild Things?
forested mountainWithout a doubt, it is more comfortable to wear compared to "Level 7" and others of the time. I feel that there is no waste, as the functional details are sublimated as design, such as the tape on the front that can be opened and closed even with gloves on, and the pockets on the body designed at a height that is easy for any body type to use, etc. .
How did you feel about the coloring?
forested mountainYou have three colors available: black, beige, and leaf . Black has always been my favorite color and can be matched with basic items, so it definitely comes in handy. Other than that, beige and leaf are the colors that can be associated with the "Monster Parka," and I wouldn't miss these either. Especially the leaf is a nice color, darker than the original.
Were there any other details that you were interested in?
forested mountainThere are many things, but in terms of details, I think that the material change patches on the sleeves are better today. With the models of the time, the color of the garments would turn white with wear and tear, and the garment would inevitably show signs of use, but with the Wild Things "Monster Parka," it is difficult to see the deterioration on the surface. . It is really a small detail, but I am glad to see this kind of update.
What kind of situation or mood do you usually wear the "Monster Parka" in?
forested mountainI basically wear it when it is cold. I don't wear down jackets. I have always thought that a padded jacket is sufficient. I also change whether I take the hood out or not, depending on my mood. When I want to wear it like a stainless steel collar coat, I keep the hood inside, and when I want to wear it as a military coat, I take the hood out. In the case of the Monster Parka, one hood can completely change the look.
I see. That is Mr. Moriyama's way of making his own rules.
forested mountainThe "Monster Parka" is a particularly complete product among military wear, so I try to dress it in a way that brings out its original charm. I think it goes well with casual wear, and I think it looks fresh when worn with a suit.
As a designer, do you sometimes get inspiration from military wear such as the "Monster Parka"?
forested mountainOf course there is. Basically, I often take apart old clothes that have room for improvement in my own brand and reconstruct them through the filter of my brand. Especially when designing women's items, I often refer to details and silhouettes often found in men's items. Although it didn't come to fruition, I did give a sample of this season's "77circa" item, referring to the volume of the hood. Unfortunately, however, we did not commercialize it due to its compatibility with the item.
Is that the same for men's items as well as women's?
forested mountainYes, that's right. I usually dig for interesting material using vintage clothing items as source material for ideas, so in a sense, items like the "Monster Parka" that are full of details that can be utilized in the modern age are a treasure trove of sampling material. However, as I mentioned earlier, the product itself is complete in some aspects, so I feel that there is not much room for improvement (laughs).
. So, this is an item that inspires creativity in many ways.
forested mountainI was wondering what kind of item the "Monster Parka" would be if we were to offer it again in the spring and summer, or how we could offer a silhouette that would be easy for ladies to wear. I have always loved this product, so ideas come to me like water from a spring (laughs).
Monster Parka ¥38,000+TAX
A layered outerwear-on-outer style that makes the most of your height. The length and the layering around the neck create a unique layered look. The calm gray base creates a chic impression. Mr. Moriyama's style is to leave the hood out and wear the front open.
. This styling makes full use of the characteristics of this outerwear, which can be worn over outerwear as well. In midwinter, this level of layering is just right. The colors are basically the same, and the silhouette is oversized, so I try to create a mature atmosphere.
Naoki Moriyama / designer of "77circa
Born in Tokyo in 1977. In 2015, he launched his own remake brand "77circa," of which he is the director. He has been fascinated by vintage clothing culture since his school days, and has a deep knowledge of all kinds of vintage clothing, both men's and women's. He has been working with the aforementioned Mr. Kurihara since he was a student. He is an old acquaintance of the aforementioned Mr. Kurihara, who introduced the "Monster Parka," the theme of this exhibition, to him back then and purchased it directly from him, an episode that can only be experienced by an enthusiast. Next season, he is planning a special-order item with "Wild Things," with which he also collaborates on his own brand.
Wild Things is one of the few brands that can move freely between fashion and military.
. I have the impression that Mr. Kurihara was the first person in Japan to stock the "Monster Parka". How about the actual situation?
chestnut fieldOf course, I was not the first, but I think I may have been the first to deal in used clothing as a dealer.
What was it that led you to deal with "Monster Parka" in the first place?
chestnut field. I had been buying military items with a particular emphasis since my time at "Lost Hills," where I had previously worked. After becoming independent, I continued to focus on military items, and while I was dealing with recent high-tech military items such as "ECWCS" and "PCU," it was the "Monster Parka" that caught my attention. Over the years, we have built up routes and connections, so when such new items came out, we were able to get offers before other suppliers.
From there, it spread to the market through domestic designers who are also friends of Mr. Kurihara.
chestnut fieldYes, that's right. I had Mr. Konno of "NEXUS VII," who also participates in the Vintage Summit (an irregular series in "HOUYHNHNM" in which Mr. Kurihara takes part), buy one for me, and we actually made an item sampling the "Monster Parka" through the brand. However, the vintage clothing market at that time was not in the heyday of big silhouettes as it is now, so it was difficult to sell outerwear with the same size feel as the "Monster Parka" (laughs).
I see. What kind of innovations did you make to sell them?
chestnut fieldBasically, military freaks were buying them, but I also introduced them to highly sensitive fashion people and recommended them to larger people. Also, at that time, they were priced at 30,000 yen, which was a very reasonable price, even in today's market.
That is certainly a good deal. Has the value of the "Monster Parka" skyrocketed even recently?
chestnut fieldDepending on the condition and manufacturer, they are now sold in a price range that is almost two to three times the price at that time. In addition to the people mentioned above, the younger generation has also come to appreciate the new style. In recent years, there are many people who wear MA-1s and fishtail parkas in big silhouettes, even if they do not like vintage clothing, and it seems that not a few people have found their way to the "monster parka" through this trend.
In this context, what do you think of the actual "Monster Parka" from "Wild Things" this time?
chestnut fieldI felt that the base design has been properly followed. Some of the best details from both Sekuri and Beyond have been selected, and the silhouette, inner lining material, and pockets have been updated. I think it is a good balance.
Were there any details that you particularly liked?
chestnut fieldUsually when I wear a "Monster Parka," I'm of the school of thought that I don't really take the hood out. When I do, I store it behind the collar. I especially like the stand collar, which has more volume than old military jackets such as M-65s and mod coats.
It is quite complicated. Could you give us a brief description of the "Monster Parka" for easy understanding?
chestnut fieldThe "Monster Parka" manufactured by Sekuri and Beyond (the company name is Oak, and Beyond is the brand name) was produced and issued from the mid-00s to the mid-10s. I was especially fond of the layering system called "PCU" (layered clothing for U.S. soldiers to wear according to the operational conditions, etc.; levels 1 to 7). These items fall under Level 7 of the PCU system, which ranges from Level 1 to 7, with the larger the number, the more suitable for outerwear). Among them, they are divided into Generation 1 to 3 according to the age, and "Monster Parka" exists from Generation 2, and that one is made by Sekuri, while Generation 3 is made by Beyond. Incidentally, the "PCU" is issued only to Special Forces soldiers, and there is another layering system called "ECWCS" for civilian soldiers.
I see . You are beginning to look like a man of the U.S. Army (laughs). By the way, some of this knowledge is not generally publicized, but how did you come by it?
chestnut fieldI may know more than the average U.S. soldier (laughs). As is the case with all military items, we can get a full picture little by little by purchasing and collecting past products, which can be valuable documents, and comparing them while thinking about what purpose the item was made for and to whom. Of course, there is also the matter of talking to local dealers and military personnel.
This spirit of intellectual inquiry has led to your life's work of "digging for old clothes.
chestnut field. Yes, I agree. Especially in recent years, high-tech military items do not become more attractive with age, so it is necessary to judge their value based on knowledge, not to mention condition. Also, since these are products that have been completed by the convergence of all kinds of functions and technologies, including those of tactical manufacturers, they are perfect as town outerwear to be worn in town.
Coming back to the subject a bit, for Mr. Kurihara, who uses the "Monster Parka" on a regular basis, what kind of occasions or moods do you feel like wearing it?
chestnut fieldI wear it as my daily outerwear, and that feeling has not changed. As the name "Level 7" suggests, it is highly cold-resistant, so you can wear it in a loose silhouette with a light inner layer, or you can wear it just right over a coat or something nowadays. However, in terms of occasions, I tend to wear the "Monster Parka" in Japan, but when I go to the U.S. to buy something, I tend to wear the "Happy Suit".
With military wear of the time, including the "Monster Parka," being depleted across the board, it is nice to know that such wear has been revived with a modern interpretation and can be picked up again today with a fresh feeling.
chestnut fieldYes, they are. But on the other hand, they also deliver models such as the "Happy Suit" to the U.S. military, and they are still a full-fledged tactical manufacturer. Wild Things is one of the few brands that can move freely between fashion and military, so I am looking forward to seeing not only this collection but also future lineups.
Monster Parka ¥38,000+TAX
A velour embroidered western jacket and denim pants are the basic American casual style. The soft beige color, typical of "Wild Things," creates a mild atmosphere throughout the outfit.
"This outerwear is voluminous and has a good length, so the innerwear should be as smart as possible. I recommend wearing it in a casual style while enjoying layering with unexpected innerwear without looking too military.
Michihiko Kurihara / Freelance Buyer , Director of "Mr.Clean
. Born in Chiba, Japan in 1977. He participated in the launch of "Lost Hills," a legendary store in the vintage clothing scene, and since then has been active in the forefront of the scene as a buyer for many years, traveling back and forth between Japan and the United States. Later in 2011, he became independent and started his career as a freelance buyer. In the same year, he launched the web-only vintage store "Mr. Clean" and plans to open a long-awaited physical store in Yokohama in November of this year. He is still a charismatic buyer who spends most of the year in the United States. He is known as the person who first noticed the "Monster Parka" and introduced it to Japan.
Monster Parka ¥38,000+TAX
A gem of an outerwear item that can be worn over outerwear, with the details of the time sublimated to modern specifications.
Based on the original PCU LEVEL 7 "Monster Parka" used by the U.S. Special Forces, a new updated model with modern details is now available. The body and lining are made of high-density cotton nylon ripstop and shiny mini ripstop, respectively. The padding is made of PrimaLoft, a lightweight material with excellent warmth retention properties, making it lighter than it looks and more comfortable to wear. The characteristic big silhouette and military-like atmosphere have been modified for town use. Velcro pockets around the stand-type collar allow the hood to be stowed away. The square logo on the left sleeve is printed with a reflector, subtly asserting the brand's presence.
