First Down and the 90's. Vol.01 Keita Inozuka / Stylist
FIRST DOWN, a down jacket brand born in the U.S. in the 1980s, was loved by famous NBA players and numerous hip-hop artists in the 1990s, and eventually spread rapidly among the young people who were their followers. FREAK'S STORE" has released items that capture the atmosphere of those days. In this issue, we asked stylist Keita Inozuka to talk about his own experiences in the 90s, his current mood, and how he coordinates with "FIRST DOWN" items.
Born 1974 in Fukuoka, Japan, he has been active in magazines, advertisements, and as an artist since 2003.
Remove too much of the culture's manners and etiquette.
What kind of time did you spend in the 90s, Mr. Inozuka?
In the 1990s, I worked as an assistant to my mentor Yasuhiro Watanabe after high school, college, and graduation.
What were your interests when you were a student?
In high school, I first played baseball, so my life was completely based on baseball until the summer of my junior year. However, our high school did not have a uniform, so I wore a rasta hat, sweatpants, and "Timberland" sweatpants to school. I was a typical culture kid who loved movies and music.
In college, I was still a culture kid, but I had friends around me who were super loose and full-fledged B-Boys, so I dressed in a slightly twisted way that incorporated the essence of B-Boy style.
Did you like HIP-HOP?
Of course, I loved Hip-Hop, but I listened to various genres of music in an omnivorous way, probably due to the sensitivity of the times, and I was not a serious rapper or DJ, so I was not comfortable with a straight B-Boy style. So, even if I wore the outdoor brand down jackets that were popular at the time, I would wear them with used cargo pants or leather pants.
You were self-digesting.
I think there is a kind of manner or etiquette in the style of any culture, and I have been thinking since that time about removing it so as not to remove it too much. In this context, I am pursuing the fun and interesting aspects of fashion.
What was the atmosphere in the fashion scene in the 1990s?
Compared to today, there was a sense that people of various genres were mixed in the same place and space. There were friends with eclectic film and music styles whose tastes didn't seem to match, but for some reason, everyone seemed to be together when they hung out.
What was your style, Mr. Inozuka?
I liked an omnivorous mixed style, so one thing I remember is a nylon mod coat by Prada, reverse weave by Champion, leather pants by A.P.C., and yellow nubuck by Timberland.
Nowadays, mixing such brands and mixing items that are rooted in music has become the norm, hasn't it? For example, just like a trap artist who raps but looks like a rock star, I have had a similar feeling since that time.
I am interested in "outdoor activities" at the moment.
In the fashion scene these days, we hear people saying that the boundary between street and high brands has disappeared.
I don't mean to sound like a big shot at all, but as I mentioned earlier, I have been naturally cultivated in a mix-culture sense since that time, so that feeling is completely natural, and I can only say, "Well, that's right.
In a sense, I think my sense of the past and the current era are very similar. I used to wear "Raf Simons" with "New Era" and Jordans back then.
On the other hand, what are you concerned about now?
Growing up in the 90's, I was a magazine reader, and one of the words I read was "heavy duty". I remember the term "heavy duty. I would wear outdoor brands with tweed items and trekking boots on my feet. That style was created by the magazines and was a shock to me at the time, but now I feel like I want to update it in my own way.
It seems very unexpected.
There was a time, seven or eight years ago, when there was an outdoor boom in my mind and I used to climb mountains carrying a tent and food. The mood of that time is also reviving.
Even though it is outdoors, does it include a fashion sense in it?
Of course there is, but I'm interested in styling it based on the premise that it was made as a piece of gear, not by matching an outdoor brand down jacket with a street-style look. I don't think this comes across at all, but in terms of the genre of sound, it has a techno-like feel (laughs).
Is it different from rave-like fashion?
I think rave has a bit more of a hippie culture mood, but it's totally different from that. It's more like mountain landscapes, highways, hard techno sounds, and outdoor gear. It's hard to describe in words, but.... That's how I feel now.
I have a feeling that "First Down" matches your current mood.
Yes, I think it is a match.
What is your impression of the First Down brand?
90's HIP-HOP, I guess. Somehow, I remember that I went to Staten Island, New York to meet Wu-Tang Clan at that time.
This season, "Freak's Store" released a special order item for "First Down".
FREAK'S STORE × FIRST DOWN〉Fur 2-way down ¥37,000＋TAX（ONLINE STORE)
This fur down has a sleek silhouette and urban look despite its high fill power, making it easy to use around town. Personally, I'd like to wear it with beige or gray nylon pants and brown square-toe shoes like those worn by Prada in the 90's. It's like "Tech x Techno". It's a kind of "Tech x Techno" look.
How about this "Long Down"?
FREAK'S STORE × FIRST DOWN〉Long Down ¥32,000＋TAX（ONLINE STORE)
I would like to choose a small size here. Of course, you can wear it oversized, but I would dare to wear it very tight and wear it with flared black slacks for an all-black look.
Why do you want to wear it tight?
In addition to the topic of the outdoors, "wearing tight" is another thing that I am getting excited about right now. In the city, many people still wear oversized clothes, but I prefer a silhouette like the letter "I" in the alphabet because I feel like wearing tight-fitting clothes all over. It is the "I" in "IZUKA"....
He said he was getting tired of oversizing.
I am not consciously aware of it, but as I am out on the street, my style naturally changes day by day as I am stimulated by various things, and I find myself in a position that is completely different from the trend. As a professional stylist, I think I do this unconsciously.
First Down fit into the outdoorsy mood of the moment.
This time, we asked you to actually wear the two types of items. How did you feel when you tried them on?
I wanted to create a style that was a bit different from the 90's New York image I mentioned earlier. The mood is just like the outdoors, so I feel like I got into it perfectly.
First of all, what were you conscious of when coordinating the use of "short down"?
FREAK'S STORE × FIRST DOWN] Short Down ¥29,800＋TAX（ONLINE STORE)
The down jacket dares to choose a size S and is tight all over. Since the coloring gives off a 90's feel, we kept the color tone low and matched it with a nylon bucket hat, tight staple pants, and enamel sneakers for a hybrid look.
Finally, please tell us about the coordination using the second "Reversible Bubble Down".
FREAK'S STORE × FIRST DOWN reversible bubble down ¥29,800＋TAX（ONLINE STORE)
I imagine a slightly classic outdoor style that I embrace. I like clothes that combine modern technical techniques with the atmosphere of the times, so I have combined these brands.
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