Lecture 3: Michihiko Kurihara

I own quite a few Jack Purcell models alone, and I still haven't run out of models I want.

What does Converse mean to you, Mr. Kurihara?

chestnut fieldI have an outstanding number of sneakers on hand, and I can say that they are one of my favorite brands when it comes to sneakers. I remember when I was 16 years old, I got my first pair of "Jack Purcell Leather". At the time, the mainstream was still "All Star," but I chose "Jack Purcell" so that I wouldn't wear the same pair as other people, based on my love of vintage clothing. I would like to have rare models that I still don't have, and there are several models that I am interested in. I personally would be more interested in updated models like the "Jack Purcell GORE-TEX®" that are not mere reissues, rather than the basic models from the 2000s, when production was moved outside of the U.S.

Kurihara's Pick up_01

'90s JACK PURCELL MULE

chestnut fieldMy first pair is the "Jack Purcell Mule.'' It was released in the late 90's as a UK project, and is actually a women's model.

section (of an orange, etc.)Is it women's? And if it's a British project, does that mean it was never developed in Japan as a parallel import?

chestnut fieldIt is. The size is 10, but they are around 26cm, and I got them used from "Berber Gin" 6-7 years ago. Well, of course I have always liked "Jack Purcell," but this time I have chosen only models that symbolize the period from the late '90s to the early 2000s. When the "Jack Purcell Mules" were released, the "SL 72 Clog" by Adidas and other clog models were popular, as they were sneakers without the heel.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Ah, there it is.

chestnut fieldI honestly thought it was tacky at the time, but over the past few years it has seemed so fresh. I feel like I'm buying them again now.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)This black and red color scheme is also very much like those days, isn't it?

section (of an orange, etc.)Why do you like "Jack Purcell" so much in the first place?

chestnut fieldI originally came in from an anti-majority point of view, but now I prefer "Jack Purcell" to "All Star" in terms of design. I have 5 to 60 pairs of deadstock shoes from the '40s.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Is there such a thing as '40s?

chestnut fieldYes. It still has the patent notation printed on the insole, and the sole has a unique pattern that differs from subsequent years. 

section (of an orange, etc.)Are these models also soaring in Thailand?

Fujiwara:No, just leather is not good enough for a tie. It has to be canvas.

section (of an orange, etc.)Oh, I see, so even T-shirts are not 100% cotton, but rather a rayon blend is better, right?

Fujiwara:Yes, I agree. But I honestly don't think they would be interested in the "Jack Purcell Mules" themselves, since they are more popular classics.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)For example, are you saying that canvas, like the "Jack Purcell Slip-On" that debuted around the late '80s, is also a no-no?

chestnut fieldI don't think those are unpopular either, but I am sure that the original or heritage models are strong.

section (of an orange, etc.)The demand is totally different in different areas.

Kurihara's Pick up_02

'00 ALL STAR LEATHER 2000

chestnut fieldThe second pair to follow is a leather model of the All Star 2000, released in 2000. It's an anniversary model from the last period made in the U.S.A., with a name commemorating the year 2000 on the tag on the shoe tongue, insole and dovecote.

section (of an orange, etc.)The accessories and parts are very elaborate as it is an anniversary model. 2000 is still made in the U.S.A.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Was this bought in a timely manner?

chestnut fieldNo, I think it was about 2003-4. As I recall, it was not developed in Japan in a timely manner, so I may not have even known it existed.

Fujiwara:Not only leather, but canvas should be released under the same model name. With different color stitching than the regular model.

chestnut fieldNow that you mention it, there it is. Around the same time, "John Richmond" (a DC brand from the U.K.) released a special-order model, which also followed exactly this black leather and red line. Well, when I think about it now, it was a very free time. It was a time when each brand could still release their own model inspired by the trends and iconic items of the time. In a sense, this direction may have been the only form of evolution.  

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Indeed. For example, a special-order model would be released as a special-order model, but later, an in-line model that was based on that model was usually released, back then.

chestnut fieldI guess. Well, I think the "All Star 2000" is a model that symbolizes the sense of the times around the year 2000.

Kurihara's Pick up_03

90's ONE STAR

chestnut fieldThe third pair is the "One Star" released in the late '90s. At that time, a chain store called "JD Sports" in the U.K. made a special order of "Campus" by Adidas and "M576" by New Balance using fluorescent colors, and I think this "One Star" is a sampling of such a trend.

section (of an orange, etc.)Is this project in the US? Is this in the U.S. or the U.K.?

chestnut fieldThe "Assembled" notation on the insole suggests that it was probably made in the United States. The "Assembled in USA" means that the materials were imported from overseas and the final process was carried out in the U.S. If the product had been sold in Japan at that time, it would have been fine to leave the "Made in USA" labeling as it was. However, the use of "assembled" in the labeling suggests that there may have been some legal ties in the U.S.

section (of an orange, etc.)I see.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)But this color scheme is still a JD Sports special order (laughs).

chestnut fieldThat's right (laughs). It's more like a fusion of American heritage and designs that were popular in Europe at the time.

Fujiwara:Is this what you bought back then?

chestnut fieldI bought two pairs at Okidoki (a vintage store in Oku-Shibuya) seven or eight years ago, and I've already worn one pair, which I keep for stock. 

section (of an orange, etc.)Is this one soaring too?

chestnut fieldThe price of American-made "One Star" itself has skyrocketed in the past few years. Models that were previously priced between 9,800 yen and 1,988 yen are now going for 3 to 4,000 yen. However, I think that the popularity of "one-star" watches in Japan, rather than in Thailand, is the reason for this.

section (of an orange, etc.)But it's "Assembled", right? Not so long ago, "Assembled" was considered lower grade than "Made in USA", wasn't it?

chestnut fieldI guess it doesn't matter anymore these days. I believe "Assembled" is equally as highly regarded as its American counterpart.

section (of an orange, etc.)Do you have a lot of "one-stars" after all?

chestnut fieldI used to have a lot of vintage "Jackstars" and "One-Stars" from the 60s and 70s, but I was concerned about fading of the uppers and staining on the side tapes, and the prices were too high for me to take the plunge, so I gave away all my originals. On the other hand, I still have a few pairs of these '90s models and still wear them.

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