Lecture 3: Michihiko Kurihara
Military pupils are a treasure trove of detail."
section (of an orange, etc.). Then, let's continue, Mr. Chestnut, please.
chestnut fieldI'm sorry to sound like a salesman every time, but I'd like to show you the "MARS" of Patagonia, which I bought on my last business trip (laughs). They are the Spectre Jacket and the Spraymaster Jacket. . I was able to find a large number of them this time, but thanks to you, most of them have already been sold.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): They're both pretty rare, aren't they? Well, wow...
Fujiwara:: Why didn't you let him sleep for about five years (laughs)?
chestnut field. I really didn't want to sell right away, but I don't have that kind of time (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.): To review, what does "MARS" stand for in the first place?
chestnut field. It stands for "Military Advanced Regulator System" and is a layering system developed by Patagonia. It was developed for the military, but I think the Slingshot was the only model that was created from the ground up, and the rest were basically in-line models. Das Parka and Spectre Jacket , as well as Rain Shadow and "R2", I think.
section (of an orange, etc.)Just a different: color?
chestnut field. probably. In fact, I think they had a trial purpose, and actually tested it as a sample before the Mil-Spec was issued. In the case of Patagonia, the quality was good, but the cost was too high, and in the end, the Slingshot was adopted as a level 4 windshirt of Generation 3 of the ECWCS (Extended Cold Weather Clothing System) for general use, but not as a PCU (Protective Combat Uniform) shirt for special forces. Other than that, several models were used in the PCU (Protective Combat Uniform) for special forces.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Can I try on this Spectre jacket (laughs)?
chestnut field: Eh, okay....
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)(Looking in the mirror) How much do you pay for this (laughs)?
chestnut field: Maybe there was a used one in the office, I'll call you tomorrow (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)What made you decide to collect "MARS" in the first place?
chestnut fieldI used to wear "Patagonia" a lot in the '90s, but the colorful items were very much in line with the times. I stopped wearing Patagonia in the '90s, but as you can see, "MARS" has a more subdued coloring, so I thought I could wear it. Another reason is that I have always loved military wear.
Fujiwara:. Nowadays, when people think of Kuri-kun, they think of military.
section (of an orange, etc.). surely that's the image you have of when .
chestnut field. I've been buying military since the store I used to work at, so maybe that's why I have a strong image of it.
Fujiwara:. Since that time, when Mr. Chestnut found a large amount of dead stock, it was usually military.
chestnut field: Yes, that's right. Of course, the reason I brought it this time is because I love military (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.): So, which do you like better, money or military (laughs)?
chestnut field. I like both because: military = money (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)What is this?
chestnut field.: "Sticky" items. I have collected some "sticky" items. . Well, they are the standard items among the standard items. I'm interested in vintage items with easy-to-understand prints such as stencils, colored flocking, and collegiate prints, so I've brought them here.
section (of an orange, etc.): How good is this goofy item?
chestnut field.: These days, I almost never wear old clothes with a full-body gusset. Basically, I tend to wear them with new clothes, but if I were to incorporate a piece of vintage clothing into that mix, I think it would be a goofy item like this. Last time I introduced plain underwear-type items, but recently I've started wearing printed vintage clothing again, and this area in particular has been interesting.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): This Indian print is badass.
section (of an orange, etc.). if it were a restaurant, it would be pretty pricey.
chestnut field. I bought this from a dealer in the U.S. for my own use, and it was quite expensive. I bought it from a dealer in the U.S. for my own use, and it was quite expensive. The dealer insisted that the body of the sweatshirt was black, but it looked navy to me. I kept saying it was navy, but the dealer insisted it was black. But I liked the print so much that I bought it for the price of the black body, but when I checked it again a few days later in a bright place, it was still navy.)
Fujiwara:: (laughs). By the way, how much did you pay?
chestnut field. $350.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Oh, wow, that's quite a price. It's definitely the price of a black body (laughs).
chestnut field. It was a high price even as black, but I knew I liked the print, so I had no choice.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): It's hard to find Indian prints of this type, isn't it?
chestnut field. Many Indian prints have realistic patterns. So I think they are quite rare.
section (of an orange, etc.): Football T's are so fresh now, on the contrary.
chestnut field. Yes, that's right. In Japan, the popularity of the product has calmed down and the price is relatively easy to buy, but in the U.S., the price is still high, so it is quite difficult to buy the product over there.
section (of an orange, etc.)I'm sure it's getting a lot cheaper in Japan , but is it that expensive in the U.S.?
chestnut field. it's expensive. . So I think the pricing of "Berber Gin" is quite reasonable. That's why I think the price of "Berber Zin" is very reasonable.
Fujiwara:: Yamada-san also said that he keeps the price of the T-shirts low.
chestnut field. Plain T-shirts are expensive now, in America. The other day, I was told that a slightly used plain T-shirt with damage was $15 (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.). even a plain T costs that much.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.).: Printing of new items these days is so technologically advanced that it's hard to tell at a glance, but it's still impossible to express this subtle cracking of the print. . It's hard to tell the difference between a stain and a stain.
chestnut field. On the other hand, it may be more difficult to create this kind of flocking and other textures.
section (of an orange, etc.): By the way, do you have a variety of these sticky items?
chestnut field. I have quite a few things left that I bought a long time ago, but I'm afraid to open the case that contains them because I can no longer wear them because of their size (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)You've gained so much weight?
chestnut field. in 3 years... well, that's fine (laughs). I want to wear the things I bought in the past again (laughs).
chestnut field. next is the Western shirt.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.).: Can you include up to this age....
chestnut fieldI'm sorry, are you talking about the gray "Wrangler"? Personally, I buy only American-made items, but these items are already vintage (laughs). (Laughs) In fact, western shirts by "Wrangler" are very popular among young people, and they sell quite well, but they are treated as vintage in the U.S. as well.
section (of an orange, etc.)What makes a western shirt so good?
chestnut fieldI think it's the ease of matching. Western shirts may look difficult to wear when looking at the details, but they can be worn with surprisingly little discomfort. It is easy to wear with new clothes and other vintage items. Moreover, nowadays, larger tops are the mainstream. I think the long length of western shirts is not so much of a problem nowadays.
section (of an orange, etc.)Front: Open or closed? Do you wear it closed?
chestnut field. hmmm, in my case, I tend to wear it open.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.).: Western shirts around this time are not long point (long collar tip shape), so they may be easier to wear.
chestnut field. Before the 1950s, the color would be a long point color, which is very vintage. As for Wranglers, I think it's amazing that the quality hasn't changed since the '80s.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). for sure. You are not shaky at all.
chestnut field. because you can't even tell if it's made in Mexico today without looking at the tag.
section (of an orange, etc.)I'm not sure if you've started collecting western shirts recently?
chestnut field. I wore a western shirt from "Bar C" a long time ago. About 20 years ago, when Mr. Abe approached me for a snapshot for "Boon" magazine, I was wearing a denim western shirt from "Bar C" (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.). I missed it . . when I approached you near "Metro Gold" (a popular used store in Shibuya that no longer exists) (laughs).
chestnut field. yes (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)By the way, do you sell western shirts at the wholesale level?
chestnut field. they sell pretty well. American-made denim westerns are popular regardless of color. In the past, only small sizes were sold, but nowadays, size 16 is common, and even size 17 1/2 is in demand.
section (of an orange, etc.). eh. Do you wear it big?
chestnut field: I think so. When you get that big, the width gets bigger, but the length doesn't change much. Incidentally, we are now selling jeans in sizes 44 and 46. Nowadays, it is fashionable to wear larger tops, so people don't shun them because of their large size anymore.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Do chambray shirts sell in the same large size as well?
chestnut fieldI don't think you can find more than 4 or 5 pieces of 100% cotton chambray before the 1970s, even if you spend half of the year in the U.S. Of course, if you go to the Rose Bowl (flea market), you can see them. Of course, you can see them at the Rose Bowl (flea market), but they are too expensive to buy.
section (of an orange, etc.). Then maybe you can buy more in Japan.
chestnut field. definitely "okidoki" is cheaper than in the U.S. (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). but it's amazing that even the age of this "Wrangler" is treated as a vintage. By the way, do you care about the material?
chestnut field: Personally, I still like the older blue denim. . I like the color of this one, which is unique to this age.
section (of an orange, etc.): Is this gray the original color?
chestnut field: Yes, apart from black . At that time, there was red and so on. Recently, I have been wholesaling not only to secondhand clothing stores but also to select stores and remake brands, and I am seeing a wider range of genres and ages of secondhand clothing than before, so my sense of the secondhand clothing I buy and wear may have changed. Well, I guess you could say that age has nothing to do with what is good.
section (of an orange, etc.)I think that's how you're trying to get more customers again (laughs).
chestnut field. hmmm, I won't deny it (laughs).
chestnut field. Finally, let's look at the Tsunagi. Konno-san also introduces Tsunagi, but please understand in advance that I am bound to military, which is a different genre (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)So: why do you wear military-type pupils?
chestnut field: I think tuna is a hard sell in thrift stores, but I personally have always liked them. The khaki is "MIL-S-5390B" and the olive is "K-2B. Above all, a tuna is a treasure trove of details. Just looking at them is interesting.
section (of an orange, etc.)What are these pants?
chestnut field. this is this "K-2B" remade into pants.
Fujiwara:: Who did you remake it from at the time?
chestnut field: No, these are pants made by GYPSY in LA, who remade them based on K-2B.
Fujiwara:: Oh, GYPSY is making this, isn't he? This is well done, isn't it?
section (of an orange, etc.)Who is GYPSY?
chestnut field. He is a senior who is a wholesaler of secondhand clothes and runs his own brand in LA. SHANANA MIL" is GYPSY's brand.
section (of an orange, etc.): Oh, that's the one who's making it.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). you know, sometimes there are jackets instead of pants. I don't know if it was a remake of the time .
chestnut field. . Also, I sometimes see WWII HBT (herringbone twill) tuna remade into coats. This is not just cutting off the pants part, but it is quite intricate, such as transplanting the breast pocket and adding hip pockets.
Fujiwara:. It's like I was thinking, "I wish I had a pair of pants like this.
chestnut field. I was allowed to buy this from the person himself at a flea market in the U.S., but it may not be sold in Japan. . As I said, it is quite intricate, and the body itself is not something that can be gathered in such large numbers.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)How much does a tuna cost around here?
chestnut field. my selling price, I'd say it's in the mid 10,000 yen range. It may not be that popular in general, but there are a lot of people around me who like Tsunagi, and it may be an item that is popular among professionals. I also get requests from women.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). I like the way you wear the top part tied around your waist.
section (of an orange, etc.)Kuri-kun: Are you wearing a tuna too?
chestnut field. I saw a friend of mine wearing it, and I wanted to try it on myself after a while, but it was quite a hurdle for me to wear it through to the sleeves.... However, after loving these remake pants for a while, I've become quite immune, so I'm thinking of wearing them as a suit in the future (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): This summer flight fabric is nice, isn't it? . The nylon in it makes it highly breathable. With 100% cotton, it absorbs sweat and cools you down quickly.
section (of an orange, etc.)I see.
chestnut field. Recently, we often wholesale used clothing to new clothing stores, so the selection is really interesting and different from that of used clothing stores. Not only the product selection, but also the sizing of the same item is different, which is very fresh. This tuna is one such item.
section (of an orange, etc.). after all, Chestnut likes military.
chestnut field. Yes, that's right. Come to think of it, this time too, it started and ended with military (laughs).