Tetsuya Okada, a representative of the world-renowned eyewear store "Globe Specs," and Naoki Ikeda, a stylist active in many media including "HOUYHNHNM's." Both of them are well versed in hip fashion. Both are well versed in hip fashion, and we asked them to choose between the Postman Oxford and the Milwan Blucher Oxford, two of Red Wing's most classic and dressy items. We asked them to choose between the Postman Oxford and the Milwan Blucher Oxford, two of the most classic, dressy leather shoes made by a workboot maker, and asked them to choose between the two.
A memorable postman, chosen as a partner to take the first step to change the eyeglass industry.
Why did Mr. Okada choose Postman Oxford?
rice field in the charge of a nominal holder (ritsuryo system)I originally wore "Postman" when I was in my early 20s, when I first entered the eyeglass industry. At that time, there was no sense of fashion in the eyeglass industry, and the dress code was strict because we were a major company. At that time, even jacket styles were not allowed. Everyone wore stiff suits and only wore wingtips or plain toes. I wanted to change the eyeglass industry to a more fashionable one, so I tried to break it down a bit by wearing "Postman" shoes. The "Postman" was the perfect shoe for me because it matched the dress code, but at the same time, it gave the look of a broken-in look.
So Postman Oxford was the first step in cutting down the dress code.
rice field in the charge of a nominal holder (ritsuryo system)It's no fun unless you break it up. I got rid of the shoes I was wearing at the time when I was transferred to New York in my late 20s, but I regretted it later, saying "I knew I should have kept them. I remember how impressed I was when I saw postmen in the U.S. really wearing "Postman" shoes.
Okada-san is also famous for his love of shoes.
rice field in the charge of a nominal holder (ritsuryo system)Shoes probably account for the largest proportion of my wardrobe. When I was a teenager and "VAN Djaket" brought the Ivy to Japan, I read in various magazines that "shoes are the most important thing," and perhaps because of this, I have believed since I was young that shoes are the decisive factor in fashion. No matter how good your clothes are, they will be ruined by strange shoes.
Please tell us about your recent shoe selection trends.
rice field in the charge of a nominal holder (ritsuryo system)I will soon be 60 years old, and I also feel that it may be difficult for customers to talk to me if I look too much like a grand master. In this respect, "Postman" fits my current mood.
How do you feel about wearing the "Postman Oxford" again after a 20+ year absence?
rice field in the charge of a nominal holder (ritsuryo system)I have been wearing them everyday these days and they are still good. I don't mind when it suddenly starts raining, and they are very easy to walk in. When I go on overseas business trips, I have to walk a great distance, but with these shoes, I don't have to worry. The other day, I went on a long walk on unpaved roads deep in the mountains of France to discover vintage eyewear.
Certainly the comfort of walking is another attraction of the "Postman Oxford".
rice field in the charge of a nominal holder (ritsuryo system)Comfort is important to me because I stand in the store every day as well as on business trips. The "Postman" shoes don't tire me out even when I stand in the store for long periods of time and serve customers. Another good thing is that they don't make a clunking sound when I walk. The sound of footsteps can make customers feel nervous, but "Postman" eliminates the noise, so customers can enjoy shopping without distraction.
What do you think makes Postman Oxford unique?
rice field in the charge of a nominal holder (ritsuryo system)I don't like overly avant-garde designs, whether it is glasses or shoes, and I tend to be attracted to long-lasting, authentic pieces. When I was in my twenties, I used to wear Postman shoes with a formal ivy look, but now I like to wear them with a more laid-back vibe.
Collapsed Ivy up-dated to 2018 specifications.
I'm using corduroy set-ups and Tilden sweaters," says Okada, "as a base for the Ivy style I wore in my twenties, but I'm wearing them in a rougher style. The key colors are navy and off-white, and even the band of his wristwatch is a uniform color. The "Postman Oxford" goes well with the casual look of a corduroy suit worn with a cut-and-sew instead of a shirt.
Tetsuya Okada
Born in Hiroshima Prefecture in 1959. After working for a major eyeglass sales company from a metropolitan bank, he opened "Globespecs" in Shibuya in 1998. At the MIDO exhibition, which is noted as an international eyewear exhibition, the Bestore Award, which determines the world's best optician, was awarded to the Daikanyama store in 2017 and the Shibuya store in 2018, two consecutive years. The company is also the exclusive Japanese agent for eight brands, including Lenoir.
Milwan Blucher Oxford's Choice_For Naoki Ikeda.
From the face, to the construction, to the pricing, this is the ideal American dress shoe that we have been waiting for.
Mr. Ikeda, this project was the first time you learned about the "Milwang Blucher Oxfords.
IkedaI was surprised that such a good dress shoe existed. I was surprised that the price was less than 50,000 yen for such a pair, and I think many people would rather wear these than pay 100,000 yen or more for American-made dress shoes. This is a relatively new model, right?
The prototype shoe has been around since the 1930s, but it wasn't until 2016 that it began to be made under its current name and shape, the "Milwang Blucher Oxford.
IkedaIt is, isn't it? If this is a classic model that has been made for a long time, it's such a classic that I wonder why I didn't know about it. If I'm going to wear leather shoes, I like to wear shoes with a top-lift heel. I want to keep my feet cushioned, but break it up with something else. In that respect, the Milwang Blucher Oxford is a dress shoe with a workboot-like feel, making it perfect for breaking up or taking down the foot.
How is the walking comfort when you actually wear them?
IkedaI have only been wearing them for a short time so they are still a little stiff, but they feel good. I have been wearing leather shoes less and less recently, so I feel like I can carry myself better. Perhaps it's because the heel counter is so stiff, but I get the impression that the shoes hold my feet in place. With the current state of comfort, my feet still seem to swim in the shoes if I wear thin dressy socks, so today I'm wearing them with thick melange socks.
So you are also concerned about compatibility with socks?
IkedaIn fact, in my opinion, that is the most important part. It's the difference between being able to incorporate them into your daily life and not. I think the Milwang Blucher Oxford fits a wide range of socks, from medium-sized ribbed socks to thick boot socks like the ones I am wearing today.
If you were styling, what kind of coordination would you use the "Milwan Blucher Oxford" for?
IkedaIf you use these shoes for coordinating with so-called "orthodox" suits and dresses, I think they have a slightly more casual image because of the outside blades and the rubber on them. Although they are dress shoes, I think they are more effective when used as a footwear that elevates casual styling.
I see. Are there any other points you like?
IkedaI also like the dark brown uppers, which are so dark that they look black indoors. When two colors, black and brown, are available, I think people usually tend to use a lighter brown. I think it is quite a rare case to dare to use a darker brown.
It is certainly a colorful upper that can be coordinated.
IkedaI think there is a good balance in the color of the upper, as well as the fact that they still have a workboot-like construction compared to pure dress shoes, such as the three-stitching and wild outstitching on the heel. There are inexpensive shoes that are made using a wooden pattern, but they have a different look from those. The difference is obvious when you compare them, and the feeling of excitement when wearing them is completely different.
American leather shoes that fit in with contemporary casual coordinates.
A corduroy fishing jacket and white jeans tailored to retain the tapered silhouette create a clean color combination. The colors are tailored in a classic Ivy style, but the silhouette is given a modern twist by the oversized outerwear and bulging silhouette of the jeans. I was looking for shoes that match this kind of styling, and I finally found them. The hard shine of the leather with a resin topcoat is also in my current mood," says Ikeda.
Naoki Ikeda
Born in 1977 in Nagano Prefecture. A popular stylist active in a wide range of fields, including magazines and advertising, he is well known for his work on HOUYHNHNM and HOUYHNHNM Unplugged. He is well known for his stoic styling, using both theory and sensibility.
Would you choose Postman or Milwan Blucher?
The Postman Oxford and the Milwang Blucher Oxford, both of which are positioned as the dressiest of Red Wing's shoes. Let's factor these two pairs from three different perspectives: last, sole, and material.
POINT 01_LAST
A traditional last that combines the chubby roundness of American shoes with formality.
The "Postman Oxford" on the left uses the 210 last, which was developed for the service shoes and uniforms of mail carriers and police officers. It is known as the smartest last in Red Wing's lineup. The "Mil-1 Blucher Oxford" on the right uses the "Mil-1 last" developed by the U.S. military for officer's shoes. The width around the toes is firmly taken, and by extending the toes, it is finished in a smart shape, and even if worn for a long time, it does not get tired easily, and it is the last of the feature that fits everyone.
POINT 02_OUTSOLE
Sole configuration thoughtfully designed for uniform wear.
The "Postman Oxford" on the left has a flat sole made of soft rubber that is rich in cushioning. The flat sole is adopted in order not to make unnecessary footsteps and not to trample on the grass at the delivery destination, and it is also approved for ease of walking. The "Milwang Blucher Oxford" on the right has a leather sole with a half-lined rubber sole for both good warp and grip. The half-lining reproduces the pattern of the Grocade medallion sole favored by Red Wing in the 1920s.
POINT 03_LEATHER
Red Wing's unique leather that combines dressy shine with ruggedness to withstand rough use.
The "Postman Oxford" on the left is made of black chaparral leather, which has a classy sheen and is rain-resistant. The surface is polished and coated with pigments and resins to enhance durability and suppleness. The Milwan Blucher Oxford on the right is made from heifer hide (leather from young heifers), which has a fine texture, dyed, and then coated with a resin-based top coating on the silver surface to create Escaya leather. The brown cigar has a two-color coating and a brushed-off finish, which is buffed to give it a slightly uneven color and depth.
When you want to dress down while still observing TPO.
POSTMAN OXFORD ¥35,000+TAX
The "Postman Oxford" was launched by Red Wing in 1954 "for policemen and postmen. The most distinctive feature is the flat sole without a heel, which combines a casual atmosphere with a dress shoe. It is recommended for those who want to wear leather shoes that can be worn as an extension of sneakers or for those who want to add roughness to formal styling.
A partner that will casual up your everyday outfits.
MIL-1 BLUCHER OXFORD ¥46,000＋TAX
The MIL-1 last, a wooden pattern for service shoes worn by the U.S. military during ceremonial rites in the 1950s, is used to create a modern up-date version. The thong back reinforcing the heel and the full leather-lined upper give the shoe a rugged dress shoe look that only a work boot manufacturer can achieve. They can be worn with a suit for on-time wear or to add a dressy touch to a casual style.
