FEATURE｜Dignity and boldness lurking in British design.
Born from TRADITIONAL
Akira Maruyama and Oliver Goldsmith. Learning from UK punk to defend and break fashion.
Since its establishment in 1926, the British eyewear brand OLIVER GOLDSMITH has been designing eyewear not as a mere corrective device for eyesight but as a fashion item with a free spirit. Stylist Akira Maruyama, who says that UK punk is the root of his own fashion, inspects the brand's items and asks how he would incorporate "Oliver Goldsmith's" eyewear into his own style. We also asked him about his own sense of fashion and Britishness.
Born in 1977 in Nagano Prefecture. After studying under stylist Keisuke Baba, he became independent in 2002. He has styled for many magazines, fashion shows, musicians, and advertisements.
UK punk with some melancholy rather than cheerful music.
Do you yourself usually wear eyewear?
mountain rangeI often wear sunglasses. I feel like the sun's rays are getting stronger every year (laughs). (Laughs) That's exactly why I have one item from Oliver Goldsmith.
What kind of design do you prefer?
mountain rangeI like shapes that are a bit round, or Boston-like. I would like to wear the round ones like John Lennon wears, but in reality they don't suit me, so the best is not too round.
The item you are wearing today from "Oliver Goldsmith" also features rounded frames.
mountain rangeThis is so cool. I think the vintage look is very appealing. The shape is beautiful, and the detailed sculptural design on the frame is also attractive. Also, the blue lenses are austere.
When I look at your styling, I can smell British culture and style.
mountain rangeI am often told that, but I have never said that I am an English advocate (laughs). (laughs) So if you ask me if I am consciously aware of it, I am not so sure. Perhaps what I like comes out unconsciously. For example, when it comes to the length of pants, I like them to be long enough to show just a little bit of socks, rather than one break. Seeing that kind of styling, I get comments like, "Maruyama-kun, you like mods, don't you? (laughs). (Laughs). I don't consciously think of it that way, but it's just the way I am.
I see that you are still influenced by British culture.
mountain rangeWhen I was in high school, a friend of mine gave me a live CD of the (Sex) Pistols. When I looked at the booklet, John Lydon's style was really cool. I was shocked and thought, "Who is this guy? I was shocked.
You were first attracted to punk as a style rather than a sound.
mountain rangeThat's right. This led me to listen to punk music as well, and I began to follow the culture more and more in parallel with fashion.
What attracted you to punk?
mountain rangeAnyway, John Lydon is just so cool. That was it. When I turned 18, I moved to Tokyo, went to live houses, and saw people who really embodied the culture, and I got to experience punk firsthand, which got me even more into it.
Why are you more attracted to UK than US?
mountain rangeI also listen to American music. I love Nirvana. However, I am more into English, Scottish, and Irish bands. The scenery in Europe is grayish, so the chords are in a minor key, and when the anti-establishment lyrics and good melodies are added to it, I can't get enough.
It is somewhat melancholy.
mountain rangeYes, yes. Of course, cheerful music with the image of the sun shining brightly is good, but I like UK music with a dark mood.
A warm design created by passing through tradition.
What kind of image do you have of British fashion?
mountain rangeI think it is a very traditional country. I like that about England when it comes to fashion. For example, John Lydon is a punk with holes in his clothes, but if you look closely, you can see that he is very traditional. I feel that he knows the rules and manners of dressing and plays with them, which I think is cool.
It may be similar to the Japanese spirit of "Mori-Ba-Ri. Are you yourself conscious of such fashion basics?
mountain rangeYes, there is that. He wears various accessories and small things, but he also wears a shirt with a tie for a crisp look, or he wears a suit with a crisp look but socks to take it off. Also, the design of British items makes sense. For example, it rains a lot in London, so items like oiled jackets are very useful, and everyone wears martin boots instead of sneakers. I feel that British people love their own things.
Clockwise from top left: [OLIVER GOLDSMITH] CONSUL-g (NERO) ¥33,000+TAX, CHERLES 49 S (SILVER) ¥41,000+TAX, RADLETT 48 SG (GOLD OSHB) ¥36,000+TAX, Oliver Oban46 ( (Antique Copper BK) ¥33,000+TAX, MURPHY E (Sepia Brown) ¥29,000+TAX, COLT 56 (GOLD) ¥35,000+TAX, PINEWOOD (NERO) ¥34,000+TAX
What is your impression of Oliver Goldsmith?
mountain rangeOliver Goldsmith's designs stand out, yet they blend in with a person's face and fit easily with styling, so I often use his products. I once brought an actress an outfit, and while it changed her impression, it never made her feel out of place.
I think it is very important not to create a sense of discomfort in fashion.
mountain rangeI think that may be true when it comes to eyewear. That's why Oliver Goldsmith is so good. It makes a strong statement, yet it can be worn naturally.
Does this sense of fit have something to do with the unique British design?
mountain rangeI think so. British design is minimalist, yet solid. Germany also gives the impression of minimalism, but there is something cold about it. Compared to that, British design is warm and minimalistic, or rather organic.
As you mentioned earlier, perhaps it is because we cherish tradition that we are able to create new products that fit in so easily when they are born.
mountain rangeThat may be so. Also, of course they are functional, but I think they are also well designed as fashion items. That is what I like about England.
