Innovation in Manufacturing with adidas. VOL.2 Daisuke Kamide, ed.
ADIDAS 4D, a new sole technology, is incorporated in the new ALPHAEDGE 4D product from ADIDAS.Previous ArticleWe reported on the release event in our "TEATORA" issue, and this time we asked Daisuke Kamide, a designer at TEATORA, who took the stage at the event, to talk about the role of innovators. In his own words, "I felt an impact, something that moved me. We also talk about TEATRA's creations, which employ functional fabrics in their manufacturing, as we unravel the appeal of the "ADIDAS 4D.
In 2013, he launched . Based on the philosophy of "improving the performance of creators," he designs functional wear based on the TPO of business.
It had an impact that aroused curiosity.
First of all, as a fashion designer, what did you feel about "ADIDAS 4D" using cutting-edge printing technology?
going outIt has been a long time since I was thrilled to see Saul in a flattering light. It was like a sudden, overwhelming leap forward in Saul's world, which had been evolving gradually. In biological evolution, there is the idea that evolution happens suddenly and in an instant, and it had such an impact like science fiction.
From the maker's point of view, the sole had only limited manufacturing methods, such as pouring, punching, and firing, whereas "ADIDAS 4D" is not applicable to any manufacturing method, which can be seen instantly in the hand.
going outA few months ago, a friend of mine showed me a video of 3D printing of light-curing resin, and without prior knowledge, even the manufacturing process was cool, as it appeared that a modeling object taller than the vessel grew out of a shallow vessel filled with liquid! I was so excited.
It is already the world of science fiction. In that vein, when I saw that it was used in this "ADIDAS 4D" this time, I wanted to try out the stepping feeling! I honestly wanted to try it out.
What did you think when you actually wore the shoes?
going outBefore I put them on, I was expecting a bouncy, bouncy feel, but when I actually put them on, I felt as if my feet were slowly sinking into the sole. When I spoke with the developer at a previous event, he told me that this feeling is the result of increasing or decreasing the density of the sole in various areas.
In other words, the denser the material, the harder it will be, and the thinner it will be, the more elastic it will be.
going outWith the previous technology, if the cushioning properties were to be changed according to the area of the foot, it had to be done as a cut-and-paste process, which forced a rough division of the area of the foot.
With "ADIDAS 4D," however, the balance of cushioning and the direction of rebound can be changed at all points of the grid without roughly dividing the grid into categories. In this way, changes can be made depending on the athlete's foot habits, environment, and discipline. It is a dream come true.
Do you yourself try out different sneakers?
going outWhenever new technology comes out, I always try to try it out as an experience. Also, I simply love sneakers.
From a design standpoint, how do you see this grid of soles?
going outIt looks like a science fiction world. Just by looking at them, I wonder how comfortable they are? It arouses my curiosity.
Sneakers are an item that fits futuristic elements.
What role do you think innovative technology plays for you?
going outThis is really my personal opinion, but I think it is important to make people excited. For example, when I first saw this sole, I was excited and thought, "I can make a tire that doesn't need air or wheels! I thought, "I can make a tire that doesn't need air or wheels!
When we see an exciting technology, it spreads like a big bang of ideas to various fields of industry, and even things that have not changed for a long time mutate, like the dawn of evolution.
Your own brand "Theatra" develops fabrics in collaboration with companies.
going outSince TEATRA is a brand that focuses mainly on suits, in terms of fabric selection, we tend to avoid anything that looks futuristic or impactful. If anything, we develop fabrics that are not noticeable (or noticed) on the outside, but only the wearer feels a sense of surprise when wearing them.
There is a famous scene in the movie "Blade Runner" where people with shiny umbrellas cross a rainy intersection. In the scene, the city, cars, and umbrellas are futuristic, but their attire is extremely classic. Although it is not shown in the scene, maybe the inside of the suit has futuristic functions. That is the image of the excitement of the suit we are developing.
The classic suit is the same as it was in the past, but only the most advanced technology is used in the belongings.
going outWe believe that the role of the suit is similar to that of an ancient form of courtesy. Therefore, we do not believe that the appearance itself will change that much unless the definition of politeness changes.
In contrast, the role of cars, streets, and personal belongings does not originate from a sense of propriety, so they are constantly changing their forms as they blend with convenience and the times. In this context, I believe that the sneaker is one of the most wearable items that can adapt to the future and change its form.
Adidas and Theatra's approach to data measurement.
Does Mr. Kamide usually develop fabrics with a specific purpose in mind, or does the design come to you after the fabric is in place?
going outBoth cases are possible, but recently we have established a base to develop with textile makers who have their own technology, so we mostly develop fabrics based on our objectives.
When do you come up with this "purpose"?
going outI believe that the most important purpose and function of a suit is how well it withstands TPOs. Therefore, first of all, I myself try to increase my actual experience with suits in various TPOs. We call these objective functions. What impression will it give the other person? These are functions for people other than the wearer, such as "What impression will it make on the other person? These are the most important objectives of "Theatre".
After setting the objective function as an absolute condition, we will supplement it with subjective functions that only the wearer can feel. As for this subjective function, since I am extremely picky, I have many dislikes, such as dislike of being hot, dislike of being heavy, and dislike of not being able to handle it roughly, so there are plenty of triggers (laughs).
We face those stresses, generate ideas, and repeat prototyping and verification testing. Then, when I am convinced that it is absolutely necessary, I start designing it! I start designing only when I am convinced that it is absolutely necessary.
So it is based on real experience.
going outThe idea is the same as when an alpinist actually measures data in the polar regions and uses it to develop clothing. In business, the polar regions are different. We believe that the most complicated places and complicated TPOs, which are considered elegant or prestigious, are the polar regions for the suit.
Without that polar experience, it is impossible to create something that can withstand the poles. However, these are not quantifiable, so after sensing something that cannot be quantified, it is necessary to determine whether it is really necessary, and to sort out the certainty that it is absolutely necessary. Because these things cannot be quantified, I believe that repeated actual experience is even more necessary.
ADIDAS 4D" is also designed based on athlete data measurements. In that sense, I feel there are some similarities.
going outIn the case of ADIDAS 4D, it was developed to improve the performance of athletes, for example, to help them run faster and protect them from injury in the limited area of the foot. Therefore, numerical measurement makes a lot of sense.
However, the most important objective of Theatra, "to withstand TPO," is not something that can be quantified in most cases. Also, in our subjective function, the objective is not alpinist or polar, so it is more important to be "appropriate" for the TPO than to have a large or small numerical value.
Therefore, even when something can be quantified, we consider it only as a ruler to make us certain. That is how we deal with numbers at Teatra.
We want to make shoes that have never existed before.
Finally, if you could use this "ADIDAS 4D" technology, what kind of things would you like to make?
going outWe want to develop business shoes. There are many sneakers with soles that look and function great, but we believe that there is still a long way to go in the evolution of business shoes that can withstand business TPOs.
I believe that the future will not lie in a straight line of subjective functions that can be quantified, but rather at the intersection of objective functions that cannot be quantified. It is exciting just to think about the possibility of applying the non-quantifiable objective functions we have developed to the numerical professionals like the "ADIDAS 4D" team.
The "ADIDAS 4D" sole technology has opened up new possibilities for shoes themselves. The "ALPHAEDGE 4D" has already sold out, but various other shoes are scheduled to be released in the future. For the latest information, please visithere (place close to the speaker or where the speaker is)Check it out at the official website of the
adidas Group Customer Service
Phone: 0570-033-033 (9:30~18:00 except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays) shop.adidas.jp/4d
