What is Takuji Mikita whom Comme des Garcons respected?

COMME des GARÇONS × WOLF'S HEAD

Who is Takuji Mikita whom Comme des Garcons respected?

For the first time in 18 years, the "Trading Museum COMME des GARÇONS," a veritable museum of art where the archives of COMME des GARÇONS and the works of designer Rei Kawakubo's favorite artists are exhibited and sold, is hosting a collaboration between COMME des GARÇONS Hommes Princes and WOLF'S HEAD for the first time since the 2000-01 A/W collection. The collaboration between COMME des GARÇONS HOMPREUSS and WOLF'S HEAD, which has been attracting a lot of attention since it was released in November. The exhibition will run until January 5, 2019.

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Takuji Mikita

. Born in Sendagi, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo in 1969. In 1991, he opened "Downtown Rocker's Mart" (currently only "Wolf's Head" opened in 1996). In 1995, he started producing studded belts on a full scale, with the idea of "making original studded belts that transcend the vintage world.

. 10 custom items, including archival.

The store is a labyrinth of high ceilings and white color scheme. Collections and archives are lined up in countless semi-closed columnar objects. Timeless and independent - that is the concept behind the "Trading Museum Comme des Garcons," which has thoroughly examined and selected one or two items, and in the last year of the Heisei Era, it was Takuji Mikita's "Wolf's Head" that was chosen.

In 1991, he opened "Downtown Rockers Mart," a leather-centered vintage store in Sendagi, where he was born and raised, followed by "Wolf's Head" in 1996 . Mikita, who newly added studded work to his menu, soon became a charismatic figure in that world.

After receiving an offer from Comme des Garcons, Mikita applied studs to 10 items selected from the archives, including jackets, rolled skirts, and caskets, and also completed four patterns of narrow studded belts.

A representative from Comme des Garcons said that after 18 years, they never thought they would be able to collaborate again.

Takuji Mikita ( , Mikita)It is true that there are not many brands that we have collaborated with so far, but we don't want to do it unnecessarily, and if it doesn't sound interesting, we just don't want to do it.

What is your relationship with Comme des Garcons?

main rice fieldI made eight kinds of studded belts for the Paris Collection in 2000 and for sale in stores.

The pleasure of catching a powerful fastball .

So this is your second collaboration. In other words, it is an interesting brand for you, Mikita-san.

main rice fieldMr. Kawakubo is an amazing person. I am thrilled by his natural animal instincts. I also get the sense that he is always fighting, and that he must be enjoying himself.

If I recall correctly, I was in my first year of high school when I went to a sale with a friend during the DC boom, and the first brand-name jacket I bought was a Comme des Garcons jacket. I don't have the jacket from that time, but I still have two Comme des Garcons jackets in my wardrobe, which is full of old clothes. They are the only high fashion brands I have owned in my life.

. I can't imagine Mikita-san wearing anything but vintage clothing.

main rice fieldI once participated in a magazine as a model wearing "Comme des Garcons" with stylist Atsushi Okubo's styling. I was curious about the black pin jacket I wore at that time, and I bought it afterwards.

So, what was the process this time around?

main rice fieldInitially, we started by asking to fill one of the showcases at the "Trading Museum (Comme des Garcons)" with works of art, just like the private stock cases at Wolf's Head. However, I thought it would be different to just move the Wolf's Head stuff over and show it as is, and I thought there must be something new that could be done there. After some discussions with COMME des GARÇONS, we decided to customize past COMME des GARÇONS collections with studs.

. it's a "private stock room" display that only a limited number of customers are allowed to enter.

main rice field. Yes, that's right. However, one week before the opening of the exhibition, Mr. Kawakubo suddenly suggested that it would be more interesting to exhibit in the space of a cylinder (the display booth that symbolizes the Trading Museum Comme des Garcons), and he suddenly threw me a fastball (laughs).

1 week ago!

main rice field. first I went to see the site to get a feel for the atmosphere. I wanted to put myself in the space and somehow catch the ball rolling. I gradually began to see how the space could be used in such a way that the custom-made clothes could be put to use by putting them on the torso, and the thought that it would be better to show the clothes with the vinyl still hanging over them would also come into play. As a result, when I focused my nerves and managed to catch it, I could deeply feel that it was a tremendous ball.

Chains that are strung vertically and horizontally, as if to repel the viewer . . This is closely intertwined with the work and gives it a very nice flavor.

main rice fieldChains have always been a favorite item of mine, and whenever I go abroad, I end up buying them even if they are heavy. Chains come in all shapes and weights, depending on the country and age. I never get tired of looking at them. The chain in the foreground was used in my parents' garage (laughs).

Almost the first customization that Rei Kawakubo was convinced of.

The work created this time is also stunning. It has an artistic appearance that is even serene.

main rice fieldWe followed the best possible stud work for each jacket we could think of while actually wearing the sleeves. The belts were designed with the balance of the custom ones in mind.

I heard that it is unprecedented for Mr. Kawakubo to have someone else modify a collection that he designed himself.

main rice field. For example, the design with large round studs. After our first collaboration, I was strongly impressed when Mr. Tanaka, the executive director of Comme des Garçons, said to me, "I would like to see what happens if I make lewdness the theme of the collection. I was strongly impressed by what Mr. Tanaka said to me after our first collaboration, "I would like to see the answer to that question someday," and this is what I have developed since then, and how I have interpreted it in my own way. I wanted it to be in line with the world view of COMME des GARÇONS. It was an exciting and enjoyable process.

The individual studs are also wonderful.

main rice fieldOur studs are made in the U.S. and finished in Japan. The plating quality of American studs is poor. So we do the plating in Japan. Not mass-produced gala plating, but we hang and process them one by one.

. Finally, what made you decide to enter this world?

main rice fieldIt originated in the 80's with the now defunct Galaxy Rocket on Okubo Street. I don't think many people know about it, but it was a store of a different scale, dealing in American vintage clothing and furniture. I worked there part-time when I was in high school and learned a lot . After that, I opened a shop in my hometown Sendagi, and it has been more than a quarter of a century since then.

. It seems to me that this rare sensitivity is something that was inherently present in him.

main rice fieldI think it is significant that I have been able to live my life doing only what I love since I was a child, without doing anything I did not want to do, including studying. My father worked in design, and I loved drawing and making things, so there may be a little of that in my blood.

The archive collection of Comme des Garçons was expanded to include original stud work such as peace marks, skulls, and lips. They are art pieces befitting the name of the museum that bears the store's name. Jacket ¥360,000+TAX~¥560,000+TAX, Rolled skirt ¥300,000+TAX~¥420,000+TAX, Casket ¥235,000+TAX~¥250,000+TAX

This 20mm wide COMME des GARÇONS special belt was completed in response to an order for a slim belt to match the COMME des GARÇONS Homme Princes jacket. The studs and design are linked to the jacket, and the stud work is as good as the masculine touch of U.K. leather. ¥76,000+TAX~¥82,000+TAX

WOLF'S HEAD at TRADING MUSEUM COMME des GARÇONS

Period: - Saturday, January 5, 2019
Venue: Trading Museum Comme des Garçons
Address: 2F GYRE, 5-10-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Phone: 03-3486-8590
Mail:tmc-cdg@comme-des-garcons.co.jp
Instagram:trading_museum

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#COMME des GARÇONS
#WOLF'S HEAD
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