The Ideal Form of "Collaboration" with Shinsuke Kojima.
KAPTAIN SUNSHINE pays homage to heritage items and brands while updating them for the modern age. About two years ago, KAPTAIN SUNSHINE began working with the select store JOURNAL STANDARD. Since then, the two brands have welcomed brands they respect and released items as a triple collaboration. This season's lineup includes brands such as "INDIVIDUALIZED SHIRTS," "BABUR," and "SIERRA DESIGNS," which have influenced each other. The result is something interesting," said Shinsuke Kojima, designer of "Captain Sunshine. We asked Kohei Nakamoto, another buyer for "Journal Standard" who was involved in the collaboration, to tell us about the story behind the creation of the collaborative items.
After working as an editor for a men's magazine, he became a designer for "Waste (Ttwice)" and in 2013 launched his own brand, "KAPTAIN SUNSHINE". He creates traditional designs, paying attention to even the smallest of details.
Kohei Nakamoto (Journal Standard Buyer)
He has a wealth of knowledge about clothing and travels the world to purchase highly sensitive items. He is also the MD of the store. He is an important figure in the store, possessing keen powers of observation cultivated through his work as a buyer, as well as the ability to make sound judgments.
An aggressive special order that changes both the pattern and the details.
Why does "Journal Standard" select "Captain Sunshine"?
the noonday mealThe biggest reason is that what we like and what Kojima-san likes are similar, and we have a lot in common.
What kind of image do you have of "Journal Standard"?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)I think you are very good at striking a balance between dealing with authentic, classic men's brands and items, and at the same time, expressing the trends of today. In particular, you place great importance on authentic items, and that is something I can relate to.
. Both of you have great feelings for American clothing and brands, don't you?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)I think so. I think the base of the brand is America, but that is just the foundation, and I am also attracted to the fact that you select items with an eye to the world without sticking to only that base.
You have been releasing special-order items in the form of a triple name since about two years ago. Is there any reason why you decided to add another brand to your lineup instead of "Captain Sunshine x Journal Standard"?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)Captain Sunshine" had been doing a large volume of inline sales, and we heard that it was very well received at the stores. We were told that the brand was very well received in stores, and we were asked to work together on something to further develop it. We decided to start with something that would generate a buzz, so we decided to edit items from brands that had inspired both of us.
the noonday mealI wondered what would happen if Kojima-san's hands were to reincarnate the clothes we have worn since ancient times and the things we wear on a daily basis. That was my first thought.
How do you exchange designs?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)After deciding what kind of item to create and the subject matter, we compare the images we both have in mind, and the rest of the design details are generally left to me. Since the name "Captain Sunshine" is attached to the product, I feel that we have to create something that is uniquely our own.
Do you use old catalogs and archives as references for your designs?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido). Yes, that's right. Mr. Nakamoto and the other buyers at "Journal Standard" have knowledge of authentic items, so we have a common language. So, just by talking with them, I can understand what they mean when they say, "That item, that age, and that feeling. We can talk with them from the same point of view, starting from the base, so they are very helpful.
I think that there is a sense that so-called "authentic" brands and items have been edited to the fullest by now, but how do you differentiate them from these special order items?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)For example, when a boutique store makes a special order for a certain brand, I think they do it in a legitimate way. The fabric is changed to spring/summer specifications, the size is tweaked a bit, and so on. In many cases, the edits are made to match the season and the store's colors while retaining the good qualities of the original item.
Indeed, I feel that in many cases, although they are special orders, they are almost the same as the originals.
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido). In our case, we would like to do more in-depth special orders. We may review the pattern and create a different silhouette, or change the details of the garment. However, we have to preserve the quality of the original brand. I always try to strike a balance between the two.
Babur" is a new style that can be enjoyed by beginners and experts alike.
I would like to talk about this season's special orders, but first, let's talk about the items with "Babur". I heard that Mr. Nakamoto expressed his desire to work with this brand.
the noonday mealI personally think that although "Babur" is an authentic brand, it goes in waves when it is worn and when it is not. I wanted to create a special order that would make people who have been wearing only trendy clothes recently turn their attention back to authentic items. I also wanted to create an item that would bring a new interpretation to those who are familiar with "BABUA" on a regular basis.
It is a very difficult subject (laughs).
the noonday mealYes, that's right (laughs). But I thought Kojima-san could make it happen.
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)It was difficult to find the right balance, but I feel that the "Babur" style is made up of a collection of small details. For example, the typical oiled fabric, the design of the front placket, the use of parts, and the shape of these pockets. I did what I could while preserving these elements. It is difficult to custom-order items for this brand because the designs are so complete, but the joy is all the greater when it works out.
Do you have any reference items or archives?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)I designed this jacket as if it were a mix of an old American fishing-type jacket and a "Babur" spay jacket.
It is spring-like in that it is not the oiled fabric you spoke of earlier, but a lighter, lighter fabric.
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)Yes, that's right. It is light and smooth to wear, and the distinctive scent of oiled fabric is gone. . However, we were particular about the look and feel of the oiled fabric. The fabric has been treated to give it a raised feel, and I thought that the slightly nubby texture would be similar to the mood of oiled fabrics.
the noonday mealSuch meticulous attention to fabrics is something that only "Captain Sunshine" can do. I think this is why this item is so unique to Babur, and can be enjoyed by both newcomers and brand lovers alike.
Crazy patterns finally realized for "Individuallyized Shirts
Next is the "Individuallyized Shirt," with its crazy pattern and bold design.
KAPTAIN SUNSHINE × INDIVIDUALIZED SHIRTS for JOURNAL STANDARD〉Shirt ¥37,000+TAX each
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)Last season we talked about doing a messy flannel shirt, but we couldn't do it because we didn't have enough fabric. . This time, we made it happen with spring/summer specifications.
Too much clutter might make it difficult to match, but this item does not seem to do that.
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)It's very difficult to put into words, but I have a line in my mind that says, "It's OK up to this point," and I tried to find a balance in the color scheme so as not to exceed that line.
He said that beyond that, it would be difficult to match.
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)Yes . . I was inspired by the color schemes of button-downs seen in old movies and old magazines, and I tried to strike a good balance. . I placed the fabrics with an eye to achieving consistency, such as paying attention to the distribution of the patterns and matching the color tones.
Is the silhouette also changed?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido). I was inspired by the American B.D. shirt with its classic fit. . It's a bit large, and expresses a somewhat snooty or boorish look.
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)However, the collar shape is a distinctive feature of this brand, so I have left it unchanged. In fact, it was the same shape that we used for a previous special order of "Individuallyized Shirts," and I liked the silhouette so much that I used it as a reference for the in-line special order as well (laughs).
the noonday mealWhen this sample was first received, I remember hanging it on a rack in the office and the buyers having a great time imagining what it would look like when it was displayed in the store. I think that Kojima's sense of balance, including the placement of the pattern and the size, is unique to him.
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)There is a unique atmosphere at "Individuallyized Shirts. Even if you tried to make the same thing in Japan, it would not be possible. I think the fabric and the sewing process create a one-of-a-kind mood.
A 3-way anorak from "Sierra Designs" made of my favorite fabric.
I understand that Mr. Kojima designed this anorak by Sierra Designs from scratch.
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido). This item is the only one that I asked for and was allowed to make. In addition to the two items I mentioned earlier, I thought it would be nice to have another item with a strong outdoor feel in the lineup. Sierra Designs" was originally a brand that made lightweight items like these, and I thought it would be great to have items that could be worn at festivals and camping.
It is unique in that the length of the garment can be adjusted to two different levels. Where did the inspiration for the design come from?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)The original design was pulled from military items, and the longer length was reminiscent of a long raincoat. I remembered seeing such an item in a Sierra Designs catalog from the 1970s.
Although inspired by items from the 70's, the fabric is made of "Solotex®" for a modern construction.
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)It has just the right amount of firmness and suppleness, making it a logical fabric to make packable. I like it very much. The way the wrinkles appear when it is unfolded gives it a very nice look. I also like the unique texture of the fabric.
What was the reason for making it a sakosh when folded?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido). so that you can literally carry it with you. I simply thought it would be easier to use that way, and based on my own experience, I decided to use such a specification.
the noonday mealIt's good for when it suddenly rains a little bit. Also, when I go camping, it is convenient to have long clothes for washing dishes. If I had nothing else, I would get my thighs soaked (laughs).
Initiatives that create a happy chain of events.
Each item has been boldly modified while preserving the brand's good qualities, and I feel that this is the true nature of the "special order" method.
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)That is something I am always concerned about, and I try not to forget the meaning of a separate order. . I always think about "why are we doing this with that brand?
Do you mean creating something new, or designing an unexpected item?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)It is important to find the right balance between the two. I don't think we should skip too much. As I mentioned earlier, it is also necessary for us to have our name on it. I think the characteristics of each brand are different. It could be the fabric, the small details, or the history and background of the brand. If we don't carefully assess the characteristics of each brand and keep the good parts, there will be no point in working with that brand.
the noonday mealWe feel that this is what makes Kojima unique. Each brand's distinctive design is brought to life, so when the items are displayed in the store, each brand's statement is clearly expressed. Even when placed alongside in-line items, they don't get buried, nor do they seem at odds with each other. The freshness is always maintained, and customers respond well to them.
Is there anything to be gained by collaborating season after season, rather than just a one-time effort?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)As Mr. Nakamoto mentioned earlier, the buyers at "Journal Standard" come up with ideas for how the items will look when they are displayed in the stores, so I always learn a lot from them. I don't have my own store, so this is something I am usually unaware of. The number of racks and space in the store is limited, so I have to think about how to express my world view there. I enjoy exchanging ideas with them, such as, "We have this item inline, so we don't need this item.
the noonday mealIn the normal buying process, we are on the selection side, but with special orders, we can feel as if we are making them together. We discuss and decide on every detail, which is fun because it allows us to use our muscles in a different way than usual. When I tell the staff at the store how much I enjoy working with them, they say, "That's great! and they in turn pass it on to their customers. In other words, a happy chain of events is born. It is an initiative that brings me back to my roots and makes me honestly think, "Clothing is fun," and I want customers to feel that too.
