CONVERSE x HOUYHNHNM VINTAGE SUMMIT CHUCK TOGGLE HVS
Vintage Summit's special order project. Reprint of the phantom sneaker, Converse's Chuck Toggle!
Last fall, we presented an in-depth discussion of "Converse" as the second spin-off project of the "Vintage Summit. The excitement of the "Vintage Summit" team has not abated since then, and we have now decided to continue the momentum and collaborate with "Converse" to create a new model! From the late 1990s to the early 2000s, the four wise men were quick to pick up on the so-called "rare berths," which were released based on an unusual concept that symbolized the times of the time, and led to their later breakthrough. The four wise men who were the first to pick the so-called "rare berths," which were released with an unusual concept that symbolized the times at the beginning of the decade and led to their later breakthrough. They chose a rare model that debuted in the same period, which also had its own quirks. The four familiar faces will talk about the "Chuck Toggle HVS," which will be released on April 27 (Sat.) through limited sales channels. Finally, HOUYHNHNM pre-orders are being accepted, so don't miss out!
NEXUSVII. designer, born in 1977, launched NEXUSVII. in 2001 in New York. In addition to original items, he regularly holds vintage events at his head store "V.E.L." in Sendagaya, Tokyo. He has the largest vintage archive in the industry.
Fujihara Yutaka
Born in 1977, he is the director of "BerBerJin" and is known as one of the best vintage masters in the industry. He is known as one of the best vintage masters in the industry and boasts an impressive collection of denim, especially pants and jackets, and also works as an advisor for YANUK, a denim brand from L.A.
Michihiko Kurihara
Vintage buyer. born in 1977. After working at the famous store "Lost Hills", he started his career as a freelance vintage buyer in 2011. . He has gained great trust not only from vintage clothing stores, but also from select stores. Last fall, he opened his own store "Mr. Clean Yokohama" for the first time in his career.
Takashi Abe
Staff member of BEAMS Online Shop, born in 1976. He has been involved in men's fashion magazines as an editor and writer for many years, and is an expert in handling many articles related to vintage clothing. Currently, he is in charge of writing for the company's website. He is also known as a collector of vintage bandanas.
A rare model that has never been reissued until now. Why the chuck toggle now?
Previous "Vintage Summit Spin-Off 2"As mentioned in the "Converse Addict" article, the "Chuck Toggle" chosen as the base for this special order is a model that was released in the early 2000s as a British project and has never been released in Japan. Like the "One Star Loafer," which recently attracted attention when it was released by Converse Addict, the original, or even a dead stock pair, is said to cost no less than 100,000 yen, and its revival has been eagerly awaited. However, as a vintage clothing lover, I thought it would be boring to simply faithfully reissue the original, so I came up with the idea of the "Chuck Toggle HVS," which has gimmicks that those who understand it can understand. First of all, we asked them about the background to the reissue and their thoughts on this project.
I had no idea that Vintage Summit, one of the media's first projects, would be a special order for "Converse". It was a surprise!
section (of an orange, etc.). It's true that you don't hear about this kind of thing very often. The recent "Vintage Summit" spin-off project was the catalyst for the excitement and enthusiasm for "Converse" among the members.
chestnut fieldIn particular, the "rare berths" (rare types of converse) released from the late 1990s to the early 2000s are once again interesting.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)We had done several special-order projects with Converse (NEXUS VII.) in the past, so the process went smoothly after we came up with the idea.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Then, when the members of the "Vintage Summit" visited Converse for a meeting, we looked through the past materials and catalogs, but we all stopped at the "Chuck Toggle" page and asked, "Can this one be (reissued)? and the conversation proceeded.
Fujiwara:I originally liked this model, and the decision to use "Chuck Toggle" as the base model was an immediate one. It is a wonder that it has not been reissued until now.
chestnut fieldAs I recall, you mentioned that once in the early 2000's you listed it in your catalog but dropped it without any orders at the time.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The fact that the order didn't get placed also shows the feeling of the times, doesn't it (laughs)?
section (of an orange, etc.)A few years later, a buyer from BEAMS also came to us with a plan to reissue the original, but it just so happened that there were other buyers who wanted to reissue the original at the same time, and the plan was eventually passed up.
chestnut fieldAfter all the twists and turns, this time the reprinting of the original was realized.
Fujiwara:However, I think it was inevitable in a sense that we all agreed on this timing. Like the "One Star Loafer" that attracted much attention, the slip-on "Chuck Toggle" is now a premier model that costs no less than 100,000 yen if it is dead stock, and I think the fact that it was never reprinted was one of the triggers.
chestnut fieldYes, that's right. However, rather than faithfully reproducing the original, we wanted to utilize our own sensibilities in light of the current era, and as a result, we came up with a variety of ideas that we discussed with each other.
section (of an orange, etc.)But there are parts of it that I wonder how you were able to make it happen, right? . Because I had submitted some orders that would normally have been rejected.
chestnut fieldYes, that's right. Since we have combined details from archived models that have been released in the past, I think that it would have been impossible for us to make such an order if it were a normal special-order project.
The tape line has been changed from the original red to black, and the heel label from All Star to Chuck Taylor. . It is a small detail, but this alone changes the impression drastically.
The insole is based on the 80's Jack Purcell design. The REACT insole provides excellent comfort.
The toe bumper and outsole with its impressive star motif are borrowed from the 70's "Coach. The design of various models are mixed and matched in this special special order.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Normally, Converse's regulations do not allow the use of details that cross over from one model to another, so if it's an "All Star," they can only use the "All Star" design, and if it's a "Jack Purcell," they can only use the "Jack Purcell" design. Therefore, it is impossible for details from other models to be applied to parts such as heel labels, insoles, and outsoles, as in the case of this special order.
Fujiwara:Thanks to your help, we were able to create a special custom order that is unparalleled. I'm happy to see my favorite stars scattered all over the place.
When did you all first encounter the "Chuck Toggle" in the first place , and what kind of sneaker is it?
chestnut fieldAs I mentioned in the last spin-off, it was the staff of "BEAMS" in the early 00's that introduced me to "Chuck Toggle". They had found them in Europe, and when I saw them wearing them, I imitated them and sought them out in the U.S. , so I personally have a big impression of "BEAMS".
section (of an orange, etc.)You said. How much did it cost in the US back then?
chestnut fieldI believe it was over $100. It was not cheap.
Fujiwara:I started to look for one, too, following Kuri's lead, but I couldn't find one in my size.
section (of an orange, etc.). come to think of it, there were mock sneakers from other manufacturers at the time, too.
chestnut fieldI would say that the design of the late 90's and early 00's was influenced by these models to a certain extent.
section (of an orange, etc.)Personally, at the time, it wasn't a model that I really wanted, but I remember that many people were looking for it. And at a certain point in time, the price skyrocketed, didn't it? What happened at that timing?
Fujiwara:. I think it was the soaring price of the "One Star Loafer" that pulled the price up.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I have the impression that the price of the "One Star Loafer" gradually increased rather than all at once. But in the end, I think it was Kuri and Yutaka who pushed those two models and other "rare berths" to new heights.
section (of an orange, etc.)Yes, it is.
Fujiwara: No, no, no... (laughs). What I find interesting, however, is that a new generation that has never heard of the "one-star loafer" or the "Chuck Toggle" is now interested in these slip-on types and so-called "rare berths.
chestnut fieldI am sure that those of us who have seen the original in real time have a different feeling about it, and I hope that this special order will be seen by such a generation.
section (of an orange, etc.)That's a good summary. I'm glad to hear that...
everyoneLOL!
An unprecedented series of orders. Check out the points of our special orders!
As mentioned earlier, the "Chuck Toggle HVS" incorporates various detail work from the archives of the prestigious "Converse" brand. The special details, which would not be possible in a normal special-order project, also show the attention to detail that only four wise men who are well versed in vintage garments can bring to the project.
Check Point01_Material
The original is smooth leather in black, red, and olive, but it is boring as it is, so for this special order, we chose black suede with a short pile, which was also used for the "One Star" American project released in the late '90s" (Konno).
Check Point02_Insole
Kurihara: "We used the printed insole used for Jack Purcell in the '80s as a base. Among the soles that can be used in the current reissue, we chose one that is as close to the vintage as possible, while reducing the printed surface to prevent color migration to the socks.
Check Point03_Toe Bumper & Outsole
I wanted to use stars anyway (laughs) . Fujiwara said, "I ordered these shoes because they reproduced the toe bumper of the 'Coach,' which was released in the 1970s as a lower-priced version of the 'Chuck Taylor,' and I could use the outsole of the same model as well.
CHECK POINT04_HEEL PATCH
Of course, the original All Star label is white, but for those of us who got into "Converse" from the vintage era, the black Chuck Taylor label is one of the details we couldn't pass up. The black Chuck Taylor label is a combination that would not have been possible under normal regulations, but we had it specially added this time.
CHECK POINT05_FOXING TAPE
The original design used red tape lines on black, and black tape lines on red and olive, but the color scheme of the lines can change the look at once, and we chose black to make it easier to incorporate the color scheme.
CHECK POINT06_GOLD BOX
The box with the star logo, which was used from the mid-'80s to the early '90s and is commonly known as the "silver box" among vintage clothing lovers like us, was used as a base. We asked them to make a "gold box" for us. This is a special edition of the Vintage Summit special order only.
Vintage Summit has a special makeover. Converse's Chuck Toggle is reprinted in full!
CONVERSE x HOUYHNHNM VINTAGE SUMMIT CHUCK TOGGLE HVS ¥15,000+TAX
Based on the "Chuck Toggle," a rare model from the last period made in the U.S.A., which continues to soar in the vintage market, this special model is made by quoting various detail work from the company's famous machines released from the '70s to the '90s. . This fantastic model, which has never been reissued, has been revived by the hands of Vintage Summit. The "HVS" in the model name stands for HOUYHNHNM VINTAGE SUMMIT (HOUYHNHNM's), scheduled for release on April 27.
Converse x HOUYHNHNM Vintage Summit Chuck Toggle HVS now available for pre-order!
Prior to the general release on April 27 (Sat), each store that handles the product is now accepting orders as a pre-order. Starting with the limited number of HOUYHNHNM's available for pre-order today, pre-orders will be taken sequentially at each store that handles the product. The pre-order schedule is as follows
【 pre-order schedule]
Now accepting advance reservations
・HOUYHNHNM hvs-store.com
*Please note that HOUYHNHNM pre-orders are limited to one per person.
. Each size has a limited number. Please note that when the number of available items reaches the limit, the pre-order will be sold out.
*Sizes available for HOUYHNHNM's pre-orders are as follows: 26 cm (US7h), 26.5 cm (US8), 27 cm (US8h), 27.5 cm (US9), 28 cm (US9h), 29 cm (US10h). Note: On Friday, March 1, the HOUYHNHNM pre-orders were sold out.
Pre-orders will be accepted at each store that handles the product according to the following schedule.
March 8 (Fri.) - Advance reservations start
NEXUSVII. NEXUSVII.com
V.E.L.
3-52-5-1F Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
03-5771-4774
THE GROUND depot.
1-15-5 Minami-horie, Nishi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka
06-6563-9674
