The rugged beauty of Smith American revived in the modern age.
The workwear brand "SMITH'S AMERICAN" started in 1906 as a private label of the Brooklyn Overall Company. Items made of heavy-weight denim and duck cloth have been loved by real workers of the time for their functionality and durability. For its first season, the label has once again released a robust collection that focuses on made in New York, and will be sold exclusively at the select store "SHIPS," which has an established reputation for incorporating authentic elements of each era. Here, we introduce the appeal of the collection, along with the words of Mr. Tanaka, the buyer of "Ships," and the outfits worn by three men and women of different ages, genders, and styles.
What was your impression of Smith & Smith American's clothing?
I knew about the brand originally, and there are many reprinted brands of this type. However, the cutting and sewing of these coveralls are very beautiful, and I like the feeling that they did not do anything unnecessary in the relaunching process. Of course, there is no such thing as a good or bad shape for the items of those days, so they must have been more or less conscious of the beautiful sewing and silhouette, but basically, they must have followed the style of those days.
I see. So you got the impression that we are focusing on the essential aspects without unnecessary gimmicks.
Yes, that's right. I felt that they were conscious not to spoil the sense of the brand at the time of its establishment. It's the kind of thing I want in real life. And because it is carefully made, it is workwear that can be worn elegantly. You can wear it with slacks like today. I also like the atmosphere of this raw color.
Is there anything you want to keep in mind or keep in mind when styling this kind of straightforward workwear?
I think it depends on the generation of the wearer. For example, if you are a girl, it would be cute to wear it oversized. If you are of our generation, you can tie it up or wear it as a set-up if you want to look more masculine. What you have to pay attention to is the elegance of the items, especially for our generation. If you are going to incorporate these items into your fashion, you should be careful about the length, what to wear as innerwear, and, for example, keeping all the buttons closed, as you did today.
Purple Things Designer
chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium)three
Kikuno-san, can you tell us your impression of workwear and vintage items?
I personally am not very good at vintage clothing, but I used to like workwear a lot, and I have a lot of overalls and pupas in particular.
Do you have any resistance to a historic brand like "Smith American" getting a fresh start?
No, I don't. On the contrary, it is very easy for me to pick up. On the contrary, for me, it is very easy to pick up, and I am grateful for that. Workwear, especially for men's wear, is all about history, about this item or that (laughs). (Laughs) Because there are parts that are particular about background and details, if you wear the wrong item, people tend to say, "That's not right," or "That's not right! I don't really understand such things, so I am simply happy to be able to wear something new but with a history, and I think it is easy for girls to adopt it.
It is true that men tend to mention history and details. What do you think about that kind of added value?
I think it's a good thing. Girls don't pay much attention to such things. They tend to make decisions based on their mood, what they want to wear, what's trendy right now, and so on. So I think it's great to buy things while paying attention not only to how they look, but also to the brand's background and history, and what the people who make the clothes are doing.
How would you like to wear workwear like "Smith American"?
I like to match it with a bit of a street look, and I think it's cute to wear it with an old-fashioned, American look. The raw-colored coveralls were also cute. I thought they would be useful.
Sugar Hill Designer
Rikuya Hayashithree
When did you start Sugar Hill?
I was in New York when I started, and this spring/summer will be my fourth season. I was originally studying to be a fashion designer in New York, but one day, Mr. Ryohei, the designer of "Land Road," where I was interning, told me, "You don't have to intern anymore, just give shape to what you have learned," and I said, "Okay, I'll do it! That's how it all started.
The brand name "Sugar Hill" is the name of a small, local town in the Harlem area of New York City. It is rooted in the community, with some grandpas and grandmas who have lived there for a long time, and others who came here decades ago as immigrants. Living in such an unpretentious and classic atmosphere, there are people who have style, not fashion. Watching these people, the atmosphere felt right to me. That was the theme at first. I felt a connection with my roots and what I like and am interested in, and it stuck with me and became the name of the brand.
The entrance to the love of clothes was more vintage than mode, or vintage clothes, or looking at old clothes, why are these details like this? Why are these details like this? I liked to look at old clothes and interpret their stories.
You didn't come here to follow the mode.
I keep looking at them, but for the same amount of money, it was more pleasing to me to buy used clothes, even if I couldn't wear them.
Did you know about Smith & Smith American?
I didn't know about the brand, but when I saw the items, I could feel the Brooklyn feeling, or the air peculiar to that area, without knowing it, and I thought it was very nice. I don't usually wear white clothes, but I like the idea of strong, cozy clothes like this, and I still have a lot of respect for them, but I am still afraid to make them myself. But someday I would like to make items that are straightforward but still have something nice about them.
SHIPS buyer Raku Tanaka talks about the appeal of "Smith American.
What was your impression of "Smith American," Mr. Tanaka?
It's not a label that would be on the same level as the popular Super Vintage label, but I have the impression that it is known as a real workwear label.
Did you have any originally?
I didn't have that.
The lineup you are developing this time is quite austere, isn't it? What was the deciding factor in your buying decision?
Maybe the main reason is because I am a twisted person, but the idea is similar to young people saying, "Galapagos are cool. Rather than specs that are more than necessary, something that has the minimum necessary functions for daily life is cool, isn't it? I think this is similar to workwear and military wear, and I think there is a sense that things that go against the times are cool, and I think this sense is probably present in some of the trends as well.
It's a feeling that will always be present.
Yes, I do. After all, we all like it, don't we? I guess you could say it's a kind of proposal. Workwear is something that does not flatter the times, but that everyone absolutely loves.
How do you like the actual product from the viewpoint of Mr. Tanaka, a workwear lover?
What is workwear, such as coveralls? There are many people who have experience in this field, so it is difficult for me to talk about it, but I was impressed by the fact that typical details are included in a way that is easy to understand. I was impressed by the fact that typical workwear elements, such as change buttons and mess pockets, are included and are easy to understand.
He said the line is austere, but catchy in a workwear way.
Yes, I think it is. I think it is full of straightforward elements. Even if you are not an expert, you can understand the details of the change buttons and pockets. I think it's good that it's not twisted.
What kind of presence do you think you will have in the current "Ships" lineup?
We have a wide range of customers, from those who have been with us since the days of Miura & Sons to younger customers who buy clothes from Vinyl Archive and Auralee, so we want them to wear these items however they want. You can wear a [Gittman] BD shirt as an inner layer, a hoodie with good colors, or a young girl can wear it big and bold.
It means freedom. It's been a while since I've seen this kind of clothing, and on the contrary, it's fresh.
It's true. It may be a little different from the current trend, but I wanted to put these iconic items on the shelves. As a select store, we have to offer this kind of proposal. I wanted to say, "Everyone is cool, but this is cool too. I am looking forward to seeing how the younger members of our staff will wear these items. I would love to see them wearing them as a set-up. I wonder how they will wear this very austere lineup. I'm looking forward to it. I'm looking forward to it.
COVERALL
Coveralls made in the image of those from the 1930s. The sleeves are set-in and the silhouette is wide, as seen in old coveralls. The denim material is also made in the original to be close to the denim of those days. ¥36,000+TAX
OVERALL
Like the coveralls, these overalls are made of original fabrics inspired by those of the 1930s. The pocket detail is based on the one-pocket vintage style. ¥32,000+TAX
PAINTER PANTS
These painted pants can be called "Smith American's" masterpiece. Compared to the existing ones, the simple construction of these pants has the atmosphere of those days. All coveralls and overalls are available in denim and raw twill. ¥30,000+TAX
SMITH'S AMERICAN Launch in SHIPS SHIBUYA
Dates: March 15, 2019-.
Location: SHIPS Shibuya Store (B1F)
Address: 1-18-1 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Phone: 03-3496-0481 www.shipsltd.co.jp/type/men/
