The outline of the vinyl archive spun from each word.
Tokyo's fashion scene is a mix of various styles, from street fashion to mode to vintage clothing, and in every field has global appeal and influence. Readers of HOUYHNHNM will not disagree that "VINAL ARCHIVE" is a brand that is currently attracting the most attention. With a lineup that embodies an exquisite atmosphere and ambience, along with a high level of dedication to the craftsmanship of its clothing, the brand is gaining supporters from the youth to the experts. This time, we interviewed three creators who are deeply involved in the creation of "VINYL ARCHIVE". Stylists, photographers, and pattern makers, what are their thoughts on working with VINYL ARCHIVE and designer Kohei Ohkita? Through the words of these creators, we will explore the outline of the brand.
Photo_Koki Sato for Jiro Konami, Haruki Matsui for Yohei Usami & Tomo Yazane
. 01. Stylist Yohei Usami talks about the vinyl archives.
First, we will talk with Yohei Usami, a stylist who has been styling the "Vinyl Archive" look for many years. He is an old acquaintance of Kohei Ohkita, the designer of "Vinyl Archive," so what is the "Vinyl Archive" from his point of view?
Please tell us about the time when you first met Mr. Ohkita, Usami.
Usami. it's been about 20 years ago. （. when Kohei was working at a store called "Made in World. I used to go to "Made in World" to lease items back then. We started seeing each other there, and when he started working on one of his own brands, we worked together as stylists. Since we are of the same generation, we gradually became friends in our private lives.
Before Vinyl Archive, you had been styling clothes made by Mr. Ohkita. So, how long have you been styling for "Vinyl Archive"?
UsamiI didn't do it for the first few years, and when Kohei asked me if it was time to ask for a photographer, I said, "Is there anyone interesting?" I introduced him to Jiro (Onami). Jiro was not working in the fashion industry at the time, and Kunikazu (Nomura) told me about a good guy at the right time.
When I looked at the website, the photos were great, but I thought that to make the most of this worldview, it would be better to have the photos be an extension of portraits, landscapes, or live-action shots, rather than having them be taken in an existing look. So, rather than asking him to take photos under my firm direction, I thought it would be more interesting if I just told him about my worldview and asked him to take photos as he liked within that framework.
The atmosphere of the photos seemed to be something Kohei would like, and as a brand, we wanted to produce a kind of zine or photobook, so to speak, rather than a catalog with a perfect view of existing clothes, and we thought Kohei would be a good fit to work with. I thought that Kohei and I could do it together in a good way. I thought that Kohei and I would be able to work together in a good way.
How did you see the clothes in the "Vinyl Archive"?
UsamiThe direction and quality of the clothes changed considerably before and after they were produced under the name "Vinyl Archive," but the biggest difference is the patterns. The biggest difference is the patterns. I think the fact that Yazane started doing everything himself was a major turning point. Kohei is a craftsman, but he also has a very dexterous side to him. Besides making clothes, he can also work as an art director, and he is skilled at editing and has a bird's eye view of things.
Until now, I think there was a dilemma of not being able to give form to what I had drawn in my mind, but with Yazane's patterns, I think the perfection of the clothes I wanted to express has improved tremendously.
Then, how do you feel about the current Vinyl Archive clothes?
UsamiAs clothing, it is simple but special. It is not easy to recognize the cutting or turnaround design, it is not flashy or pop, there are seasons when only black and red are available in terms of color, and while there is a lot of attention paid to fabric making, it is not easy to recognize at a glance.
It is amazing and interesting that such a maniacal and unbalanced brand is loved so much by so many people. Many of the items have difficult silhouettes, so I'm very interested to see where they are worn, by what kind of people, and how they are worn.
So, what do you keep in mind when styling the "Vinyl Archive"?
UsamiThe way we do things is a little different from other brands, and we try not to intervene too much. I leave it to Kohei. For "Vinyl Archive," I don't give directions like, "Here, do this. I don't tell him how to take the photos, I don't tell him which photos should be enlarged, I don't tell him about the final composition, and I don't attend the layout.
But they always turn out better than I expected, and I trust them to do so. I don't start filming with a lot of fixed ideas, but it's a rare case where it works out well (laughs). Looking back on it now, I realize that our approach has not changed since the three of us started shooting together.
Finally, what do you expect from "Vinyl Archive" and Kohei Ohkita in the future?
Usami. like collaborating with other brands, or doing design work. He has a talent for directing, so I think it would be good for him to do a variety of jobs. I think he is a well-balanced person who can create pop designs that will sell well, while still being maniacal where he needs to be. He is not the type of person who would be involved in a lot of things in public.
I guess he has to digest each of his work one by one to move forward, but it would be interesting to see him do a variety of different jobs. It would be interesting to see more and more of his work. If we could see a side of him that is unknown to us and that cannot be seen through his clothes alone, it would expand the brand. If this side of him is fed back to the brand, the brand will have more depth.
Yohei Usami
. based in Tokyo, Japan, and active both domestically and internationally. He has styled all visuals for Vinyl Archive for many years now.
. 02. Photographer Jiro Konami talks about his vinyl archives.
The second photographer is Jiro Onami, who was introduced to Mr. Ohkita of "Vinyl Archive" by Mr. Usami and has continued to take visuals for each season since then. He is now based in New York, and we asked him what "Vinyl Archive" means to him.
Please tell us about your encounter with Mr. Onami and Mr. Ohkita.
waves in small wavesWhen I was 23 or 4 years old, I was introduced to Mr. Usami by Kunichi Nomura when he looked at my photographs, and Mr. Usami introduced me to Kohei. As I recall, we met for the first time and suddenly shot a look for the "Vinyl Archive.
At any rate, they let me move the models around and do what I wanted to do. For me, who had never worked in fashion before, it was an experiment, and I think it became a style that would define me for the rest of my career.
What do you keep in mind when photographing the "Vinyl Archive" clothes?
waves in small wavesThe premise in all of this is that I take good pictures. Every time, I try to remember the feeling of the very first shoot, or something like that. . that I am going to do something reckless, I guess.
What do you think makes Vinyl Archive unique as an apparel brand, in your opinion?
waves in small wavesI think it's the clothes that draw the eye to the face.
So, what is the appeal of the "vinyl archive" to you, Mr. Onami?
waves in small wavesI think this is a brand that I can easily get into my pictures. There is no pressure. I can take pictures without any pressure, and I wear it every day without any pressure.
Are there any memorable episodes from the "Vinyl Archive" shoots so far?
waves in small waves. that we asked actor Ryo Kase to wear it for the photo shoot. Both Kohei and I were very persistent. I felt as if he embodied the image in his own presence. He wore the dress without any difficulty. It was as if they were just randomly picked up from their closets. I felt that the clothes in the "Vinyl Archive" and my photographs were linked through the eyes of a human being.
For you, is "Vinyl Archive" equal to Mr. Kohei Ohkita?
waves in small wavesIt is not equal (laughs). Kohei-san is a person who takes it easy. I think he is an old-fashioned, passionate person. To me.
What are your impressions of the increasing number of collaborations with global brands such as Marmot and Reebok over the past few seasons?
waves in small wavesIt is an image that Kohei himself was blown away by. At the same time, many people will know about it. I feel that this is exactly what Vinyl Archive is all about, and that Kohei's vision has expanded. Since I am in New York, I would like to see a collaboration with "Supreme. And I would like to photograph it.
What do you think makes you attractive as a designer?
waves in small wavesIs it the editing skills? . Kohei-san does all the photo selection, book design, and everything else. He gathers materials from a lot of information from making clothes, selects what he wants to do for the "Vinyl Archive," composes from the large number of photos taken, and adjusts the design. I think that the editing ability of this series of steps is what makes Kohei-san so appealing.
Moreover, he is able to somehow create a sense of discomfort somewhere. That may be intentional for Kohei-san somewhere, but he does it naturally. I think that is cool.
Finally, what do you expect from "Vinyl Archive" and Kohei Ohkita in the future?
waves in small wavesStay the same . I want you to keep looking for things that will never change.
Jiro Konami
Photographer based in New York. He is active in advertising, magazines, and brand looks, both in Japan and abroad. . He has also photographed looks for "Vinyl Archive. He has also been involved with the brand in various ways, including holding solo exhibitions supported by "Vinyl Archive" and providing photographs for "Vinyl Archive" clothing.
03. Patterner Tomo Yazane talks about his vinyl archives.
Lastly, we interviewed Mr. Yazane, a patterner who was described by stylist Ms. Usami as an important key person for the "Vinyl Archive" brand. We asked Mr. Yazane, who is an indispensable partner in realizing the pieces envisioned by Mr. Ohkita, about the appeal of the brand.
. First of all, please tell us about the profession of a pattern maker.
arrow lengthPattern makers receive design drawings for clothes from various brands, and their job is to create patterns from them. In my case, I do not work for any brand, but work mainly for men's wear as a freelancer.
We do T-shirts, we do sweatshirts, we do jeans, we do suits. . We do patterns for all kinds of ready-to-wear, from formal to casual.
What was it that led you to become a patterner?
arrow lengthI have loved making things since I was a child, and when I fell in love with clothes, I ended up wanting to know the root of it, the making side. . That's what I was interested in, so I thought that there were many things I could do if I became a pattern maker anyway.
Conversely, clothes are supposed to make you dream, but my work is so focused on the practical aspects that I don't have any dreams (laughs). (Laughs). How do I realize the designer's drawing, so to speak, is the work part.
In that sense, as I said, a pattern maker is guided by the designer. They understand the person and decide the shape and dimensions based on that person's guidance.
How did you come up with the pattern for the vinyl archive?
arrow lengthIt seems that Kohei-san had seen the clothes of a brand for which I was working on patterns. The people at that brand and Kohei-san were connected, and when it was time to launch "Vinyl Archive," they asked me to join them. So we have been working together for more than 10 years, from the launch to the present.
So you have been doing this since the start-up of the company!
arrow length. I think it means that I haven't made any mistakes (laughs). As is the case with any brand, the number of models decreases depending on the accumulation of performance and designs. Even so, Vinyl Archive consistently receives orders for about 20 models per season. Having such a stable brand is very helpful for my life. Moreover, I don't think it is easy to keep making new models like that.
From your point of view as a pattern designer, what do you find attractive about Vinyl Archive's clothes?
arrow lengthWhat I try to keep in mind when I work with Kohei-san is a sense of cleanliness. So, what is cleanliness? It is difficult to put it into words, but I try to keep it simple.
There are many things that seem simple but are profound. I have incorporated many of these aspects into the "VINYL ARCHIVE" collection. I think that his love of simple, clean clothes is at the core of what he does.
Is there a part of it that you update each season, or something like that?
arrow lengthOne of the strengths of working with us from the start is that we share data with each other. We can smoothly exchange ideas about what we have made in the past, such as "I want to do this or that a little bit," and so on. In fact, at "Vinyl Archive," we sometimes tweak silhouettes based on past archives.
There seems to be an "A-Un" kind of thing going on.
arrow lengthYes, I agree. I think we both feel what we feel because we kept doing it. In the end, I think the kind of work you just mentioned will color the brand. . because of the popularity of the brand, there will be a second chance. . Still, we are not the type of people who want to make exactly the same thing for each other.
It is precisely because we are able to share these nuances that we are able to leave a little bit of discomfort in the so-called brand's standard products every season.
You mean repeat updates.
arrow lengthThat may sound easy to some, but it is not easy at all.
Is there anything memorable about working with the "Vinyl Archive"?
arrow lengthI think you had a hard time at first, but when you did the pop-up at "Ships" in Harajuku, the scale of the event was huge. At that time, I felt a sense of satisfaction, and I was glad that I had done it. It was that big of a deal.
I have seen all the hard times he went through, so even I was impressed. I am glad to have worked with this person.
Finally, what do you expect from "Vinyl Archive" and Kohei Ohkita in the future?
arrow length. we want you to continue to enjoy doing what you love to do as you have always done. . and I would like to work with you on that work (laughs).
FOR FORMER FORMER FORMER FORMER
He has worked on patterns for many brands, mainly as a patterner for men's items. He has been involved with "Vinyl Archive" as a patterner since its inception. He also works on his own brand, "Stabilizer Jeans.
