Kashimi's political message in his clothes.

Qasimi talks about career, identity, fashion...

The political message that Qasimi puts into his clothes.

The designs have a street-like playfulness with a somewhat nomadic atmosphere. QASIMI's collections are a mixture of Middle Eastern and Western cultures, and have a sense of beauty not found in other brands. The designer's name is Khalid Al Qasimi. Tracing the source of his delicate creations reveals the social background of his childhood. To explore his identity, we interviewed him during his visit to Japan in late March.

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Khalid Al Qasimi

Designer of "Kashimi". Born in Sharjah, United Arab Emirates and raised in England. After graduating from boarding school, he went on to University College London, but his love of fashion led him to transfer to the foundation course at Central Martins College of Art and Design. After completing his studies, he went to architecture school and then returned to St. Martins, where he majored in womenswear design. After graduation, he presented several collections in Paris and London before officially starting his own eponymous brand in 2008.

Childhood memories. Influences from family.

On that beautiful T-shirt was written "The End" in Arabic. On the back were the words "It ended before it begins" in English. It is difficult to guess what ended and what began (or did not begin) from these words alone; the word "end" may hide some sad memories, or it may be a cheerful message that an end has been put to a sad past. But at the very least, KASHIMI's Spring/Summer 2019 collection is elegant and light, full of nomadic freedom, and certainly suited to strong sunlight.

Before moving to England at the age of nine, Khalid Al Qasimi, the designer behind "Qasimi," witnessed two wars in his native Middle East. The Iran-Iraq War and the Gulf War. So, even at a very young age, I thought about and understood what war was all about. Politics was always close to my heart. Since his debut as a designer, he has continued to incorporate political messages into his designs, such as his Gulf War-themed collection, which is easily unimaginable given his sophisticated appearance.

"When I would come home from school and sit around the dinner table with my family, politics was always the topic of conversation. I knew that at home they would ask, 'What do you think? so I had to prepare my answers. It's nerve-wracking (laughs). But it was a great experience to know that even family members have different views. I learned at a very young age that there are different ways of looking at things in the world.

While he acknowledges that this background has a significant impact on his values, he does not assert it loudly in order to avoid being pigeonholed into the category of "Middle Eastern designer. While he is very sympathetic to the "diversity" and "inclusion" movement that is sweeping through the fashion industry, it may not be in keeping with his sense of aesthetics to be a part of it.

It may have been the influence of my family. I think there was an awareness from a young age that it is not very beautiful to show off one's background and knowledge. There was a certain modesty in my family.

In the turbulent Middle East, his childhood was very creative. He grew up with a father who was knowledgeable about architecture, history, and photography, and a mother who loved fashion and made her own clothes. He used to follow his mother when she went shopping for fabrics, giving her advice even at a young age. Her twin sister is currently traveling the world as an art curator.

However, no one in his family ever imagined that he would become a fashion designer. After graduating from boarding school in England, he went to "University College London" (UCL), majoring in French and Spanish, but his love for fashion never cooled and he transferred to the foundation department of "Central Martins College of Art and Design". As is well known, it is a prestigious fashion school. Hence, many students there aspire to become fashion designers. Khalid, who was "a little fed up" with such a situation, entered the "AA School," an architecture school, to study spatial design after completing the basic course.

It was a great experience. I learned a lot about how to perceive space and the relationship between people and space. But I couldn't stop thinking about fashion. I went back to Saint Martin's and majored in womenswear design.

After graduation, he presented several collections in Paris and London before launching "KASHIMI" in 2008 in his home base of London. At the time, the brand also offered womenswear, but in 2014, it was relaunched as a brand specializing in menswear.

Something that gives people dreams in tough times.

His collection begins with a collection of visual ideas. From a "image bank" of various visuals that capture his interests, he selects what he intuitively feels is good, edits it, and weaves a story out of it. What all the collections have in common are military elements, an earthy color palette, and a nomadic atmosphere. These elements are incorporated into intelligent, minimalist designs with a streetwise playfulness.

In the fashion industry at a time when producer-type designers skilled in sampling are very active, he seems to be a rather orthodox designer. What does he think of this trend in the industry?

The fashion system no longer works in London or Paris. Consumers are driving trends through social media rather than designers. So I don't worry about what other designers are doing. I am not really interested in the glamorous fantasy of the fashion industry. This may be due to my background in spatial design, but I just want to create beautiful products. I try to connect and interact with consumers through social media, but I try not to get caught up in satisfying their desires. If that becomes my goal, I will lose sight of who I am. Ultimately, I think it's best to pursue what you do best."

The Fall/Winter 2019-20 collection may be the most adventurous of all Kashimi's collections to date. In addition to experimenting with strong colors that have not been part of his favorite color palette in the past, he collaborated with beloved artist Mel Odom to present items printed with Odom's romantic and bewitching watercolor paintings.

The world today is experiencing a lot of tension in all aspects, including politics and culture, such as Brexit in the U.K. I wanted to incorporate this tension into the designs for this collection. For this collection, I wanted to incorporate this tension in my designs. For me, fashion is more of a medium to convey a message than an artistic platform. I want to use the power of fashion to push the borders between the Middle East and the West, between toughness and romanticism.

Khalid says that once he begins to see the world after Brexit, he would like to try womenswear again. What kind of world is he trying to build beyond the boundaries that divide various things?

Fashion is only a small part of quality of life. So ultimately, I want to create a lifestyle brand that enhances the quality of life from every angle, from space and furniture to fragrance and food. I believe this is what will give people dreams in these tough times.

QASIMI

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