moneyTechnically, it has been four and a half years. The "reshop" started out as a store with a variety of delicious side dishes, using the fashion items of the time as "side dishes". However, I always had the idea in the back of my mind that we should also serve delicious meals.

moneyYes, I do. However, I think everyone who likes clothes has a lot of such staples. For example, you may have many Brooks Brothers B.D. shirts. However, I think the form you want to wear even with the same B.D. shirt changes depending on the mood of the times. For example, items with a longer length or a wider body.

moneyTherefore, we have prepared nine sizes of shirts and T-shirts.

moneyIf it's a normal size, we don't stand a chance. But if we could offer something that fits the mood of the moment, we could do something beyond the high street. I had this fantasy in my head for a long time. I have a lot of staple items, but on the other hand, I was also looking for odd shapes in vintage clothing. I could also simply offer clothes that fit just right for tall but thin people.

moneyWe have been trying something similar to "LE" for a long time. For example, we stocked four differently shaped shirts from a brand called "SERO," and Lee's clown pants were made with extremely high inch counts. We also intentionally made the backpacks of "OUTDOOR PRODUCTS" bigger. I don't think of it as an extreme design experiment, but rather as an interesting fashion proposal by tweaking the form. They were all hits in their own way, and over time I gradually gained a feel for them.

moneyYes, it is. That is one reason. Another reason is that four and a half years have passed since we opened, and we have come to the point where we feel we have to start creating our own original products (laughs). (Laughs) And the most important reason is that we are planning to open a new store next spring. The timing of these events coincided with the opening of the new shop, and we finally got around to it.

moneyThe cook is good, the idea is good, and the price is easy to ask for. I think these three points are indispensable elements in creating original wear. I don't think there are many products of poor quality in today's world, but I wanted to make sure the cooks were good in order to give people an even greater sense of security.

We have been involved in fashion for a long time and know what is good in our own way. However, we didn't want to make our own clothes only to find out that they are not cool. Another important point was that we wanted to wear the clothes we made and be satisfied with them. That's when he came to mind. If it was something that Mr. Komori was involved in, I could wear it with peace of mind (laughs). I consulted with him around April of this year, and he agreed to do it.

small forestThat's right. I didn't have time to draft a plan or draw pictures. I said, "If that's okay, I'll do it. Otherwise, it might end up halfway. My role was to act as a supervisor and give advice on what Mr. Kaneko had in mind, or rather, to say something like, "This is what I think you should do. I would say something like, "Maybe this part should be done this way. I also play a coordinating role for the finished product. I also chose the fabrics, and that was about it.

moneyThis time, the item was based on a royal item, so there was no need to tamper with it in the first place. However, we knew from the beginning that such small details as the curvature of the shirt collar, for example, would affect the finished product, so we wanted to have a professional dressmaker take a look at it.

moneyEven if there is nothing to tweak as a result, that's fine. The fact that the work was checked properly is what makes it meaningful. I would never have been able to do the work based on my own senses alone.

Although Komori does not actually draw and design the items, you can sense his aesthetic in the smallest of details. It's a different way of making things from "Komori," but I think you can sense the essence of his work. I would like Komori fans to take a look at this.

small forestThis time, I thought it would be better to make as few alterations as possible. I thought it would be better if I did not add my own authorial colors. I had a clear color scheme that Mr. Kaneko had in mind, so I tried to bring out that scheme as beautifully as possible, and I devoted myself to that role.

small forestFirst, I bought fast fashion brand B.D. shirts and studied them, and since I had not made B.D. shirts for a while, I wanted to know what was happening with shirts in the world today. I wanted to know what was going on with the shirts in the world today, and I felt that they were a bit bland.

small forestThe collar seemed to be lacking. What Mr. Kaneko had in mind was a B.D. shirt from Brooks Brothers, so we agreed that it would be perfectly fine. So, as a result, I did not make any changes to the collar at all (laugh).

moneyI just adjusted the form and the silhouette of the tail. I compared several Brooks Brothers shirts I own and combined the best parts. Interestingly, there are subtle differences even among the same shirt.

small forestMany people around me like old "Brooks Brothers" shirts. I wondered why, and as a result of my research, I found that the pattern is the same, but the collar interlining of old shirts is fluffier. So I used that as a reference. Also, the choice of fabric is important.

moneyThe fabric is also very nice. If it had been me, I would have chosen a broadcloth like "Thomas Mason," but Komori-san has a slightly different perspective.

moneyBroadcloth is not natural in the way it wrinkles after washing. However, Mr. Komori has thought in a completely different direction, from the way they are washed to the way they are worn, such as being able to be worn unwashed. Since we value the classic aspect of the fabric, the dress-like look of broadcloth is naturally important, but we also wanted something that could be worn after washing, so he chose a fabric that really falls in between the two.

small forestBroadcloth has a definition, and there is a fixed ratio of warp to weft yarns. To give a rough explanation, the ratio of warp yarns is higher, so it gets very wrinkled in the warp when washed. On the other hand, there is a fabric called "typewriter," in which the warp and weft are equal, so wrinkles appear evenly when washed. However, it is a fabric that is widely available on the market, so I feel that it is easy to use, and I would like to avoid using it if at all possible. I thought it would be nice to have something in between broadcloth and typewriter, so I consulted with a fabric store, and they came up with a don't-miss.

small forestYes, it is. With broadcloth, the wrinkles don't look good when washed, and care is needed when drying. On the other hand, typewriter is too casual. The way the wrinkles appear is neither one nor the other. It's a subtle difference, but it changes the way the texture appears when washed.

moneyIt is the same. As you just said, the fabric is the most quintessential part of this shirt. I hope I can tell the customers about the washing process as well. Mr. Komori is particular about details, but he doesn't really care about the production background.

small forestThis time, we asked the factory behind "BAYCREW'S" (note: the parent company that manages reshop) to do all the production. We knew that we would get the best quality if we had the work done there. All select stores are the same, but when it comes to making dress shirts, the quality is better than any other brand. So I was not worried at all about the quality of the finished product.

moneyYes, I am referring to "Gramichi". I studied American-made items. In contrast to the shirt, this one has been tweaked quite a bit. I removed the characteristic inseam gusset from the shirt. Also, the key point is that I prepared two types of inseams.

moneyBasic climbing pants have a shallow crotch. Wearing low-rise ones a size up just makes them harder to wear and does not create a fuller silhouette.

small forestThey are very shallow because they are not designed to be worn low on the hips. If you try to wear them as a fashion item now, some people may feel that they are not enough.

moneyOn the other hand, pants with a deep crotch rise look looser when sized up, changing the silhouette and making them more comfortable to wear. While keeping the high road as the high road, we have also prepared deep crotch pants that can be enjoyed in a different silhouette.

moneyWe decided on two patterns based on the idea that some people like pants with a shallow crotch, while others like pants with a deep crotch. We wanted to provide two types of pants, and let customers choose how they would like to wear them.

moneyI think the gusset makes it easier to open the legs and is naturally better suited for climbing. However, when I think of them as street wear, I also feel that they are difficult to wear. With these feelings in mind, I decided to remove them from the collection. However, GRAMICHI pants have hip pockets relatively close to the waist, and I retained this detail.

moneyThis is Komori's choice. Was the idea brought from the U.S. Army training pants?

small forestYes, it is. It would have been nice if we could have used that same fabric.

moneyI was thinking of using cotton, but when I was shown the fabric, I instantly liked it. I liked the fact that it was charcoal instead of black.

small forestYeah, I like the color.

moneyThe silhouette is tapered, similar to the original Gramichi. The pattern has changed slightly between now and the past, and the current items have straight legs. On the other hand, old items have a line that looks a bit like a gimpy leg, and as a generation that has gone through that, I was able to refer to the good points of the old items.

moneyIt's a middle-of-the-road kind of thinking.

small forestThis is exactly how select stores create their originals. They have a prototype and somehow make it closer to the store's image. I think that's why all the companies have been making their own climbing pants.

small forestI can't make it with an overly business-oriented mindset.

moneyThis is a business, too (laughs). But I don't think I'm trying to flatter the market.

small forestThat is important. I don't like to create something that works both on and off the stage. I want to keep it as close to the original as possible, but if I say so, it becomes complicated, so this time I would like to play a supportive role for Mr. Kaneko without having any intention.

small forestIf I try to reflect my own will and preferences, it becomes superfluous. However, when I talk with Mr. Kaneko, we end up talking about preferences (laughs).

small forestThat is of course true.

moneyWe want to reevaluate what we have been through and think about what we should be doing now. That is why we wanted Mr. Komori to join us. We have a product-out approach, and if we are going to make original products, we want to do it with the same passion as purchasing them. Our base is the intention of "reshop," and we do not want to flatter the market. I think this is what select stores were thinking when they started making original items in the first place. They didn't have them, so they made them.

small forestYes, I do.

moneyThere are about seven people on the team, including Komori and myself, and we are all able to talk in the same direction. We have created an environment in which we can properly create what we need to create. That is why we are able to proceed with our projects very comfortably. I am very happy to be surrounded by people who understand me well.

moneyI think the best T-shirt for me is something that is constantly changing. It is something that you continue to search for throughout your life. I thought that by making this T-shirt in 9 sizes, I could find one that fits my mood even better.

moneyThis T-shirt is from . This is not a round-body T-shirt, but it is a reference to the high street. I chose a fabric that is not transparent and can be worn alone. The form is also similar.

moneyLike the shirt, it can be worn as an inner layer depending on the combination of width and length, and of course can also be worn alone.

small forestThe base "Haynes" that Mr. Kaneko had was good, so the only advice we gave him was the fabric. However, we didn't use anything special, but a universal thickness that can be found anywhere.

small forestI was also surprised at the quality of the "BAYCREW'S" cut-and-sew factory. It's so well made. It was amazing. The necklines came out beautifully and perfectly in one shot. The hems are also perfectly finished. I realized once again how great the background of a company that has been making original products for many years is.

moneyThe person who did this for me happened to be a junior employee of my former company. He said, "I want to repay him for what he did for me.

small forestReally? That's amazing. It's rare that someone from a factory puts so much passion into their work.

moneyIn fact, there is such a backstory. Then, they really made it for real.

small forestIt's nice to have someone you know make it for you.

moneyThe neck of a T-shirt is the face of the garment. So we decided on the width of the neckline, referring to the ones made by "Komori" as well.

moneyActually, I was originally going to adopt this thicker width as a standard. I have a Haynes shirt that is even wider than this one, but it is strangely more elegant than drab. I discovered the Kaneko Theory, which says that no matter how loose you wear your clothes, as long as the ribs are wide and high, they will look neat. However, it is a bit excessive, so I thought it would be impossible to fit it into the framework of a royal road. So I found a universal balance and settled on a standard neck width.

moneyWhen I asked the store staff what they wanted, they all said, "This one is good, too. So we decided to try it in black only as a trial.

small forestWhen I received the sample of this T-shirt, this one looked better. My senses became numb, and I began to feel that the one I had made was too thin (laughs).

moneyI brainwashed them (laughs).

small forestIt completely changed my values. This will affect the next season of "Komori.

moneyAlthough we will open a new store next year, it will still be on the scale of two stores, so I hope we can explore how we can satisfy our customers. We always want to keep a margin for experimenting with trial items like this. When you have a large number of stores, it is almost impossible to make a large item with a wide neckline because it would be unprofitable. But because of our scale, we are able to do this.

small forestI thought while working on "LE" this time, there are ways of expressing design and fabrics with a twist, but I also thought that it is good to simply express "this for this.

moneyPerhaps it is the power of editing. Just by editing in this way in a well-balanced manner, you can make good clothes without using special quality materials. And at a reasonable price.

small forestIt really is. It's a royal road, so there's nothing new in the design, but it's still very good. The production efficiency is very good. It is amazing that there is no burden on the people making the products, of course, but also on the factories. It is not because of the power of a visibly different design.

moneyBut maybe it is a kind of design. I think this is the result of the intertwining of various detailed elements.

moneyI think so. What made me happy was that all of our staff, who had seen all the items we stocked, said they wanted them. It was a relief to know that they were satisfied.

moneyAs I told you here, the story is more than usual. I think that's what the staff is getting from us. I think they can see right away that we are compromising, but I think they know we are giving it our all. Now I want to convey that to the customers.

moneyIncrease. I'm thinking blazers next. Also, a tilden sweater. I can't find a plain tilden with no lines on it.

small forestBut you're going to put in the face of the line, right?

moneyI will include it. I don't want to leave the axis of "royal road" unchanged. So I think the key is how to subtract.

small forestIt looks kind of difficult, doesn't it? Do you have an image of it?

moneyI can see super well! So I think it's ok for now (laughs).