FEATURE|My Favorite Things: Stephen Allan's Favorite Things.
My Favorite Things.
Stephen Allan likes.
Following the opening of the Steven Alan Futakotamagawa store in September 2015, Steven Alan opened its sixth domestic store, Steven Alan Yokohama, in March 2016. Alan Yokohama opened in March 2016. The brand's founder, Steven Alan himself, visited Japan to inspect the new store. We will be looking into his fashion roots and the current fashion situation in New York, and introduce items that he himself uses on a daily basis.
Born in New York, U.S.A., he opened his own eponymous store, Steven Alan, in 1994, and began designing original products for select stores in 1998. 2008, he was nominated for GQ's "BEST NEW MEN'S WEAR DESIGNER IN AMERICA" by GQ in 2008. . His movements are always attracting attention.
. as a student, influenced by the way he dressed downtown.
How did Ms. Steven become interested in fashion?
Stephen Allan. It was in high school that I realized that I loved fashion. I had always been interested in art and design, and I went to a school for that in high school. It was known as a high school where Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, and other famous designers had attended. My major was film. . I mean photography and video. In class, as I faced many people through the camera, I suddenly noticed something. . I noticed that not only the people I was photographing, but all the people around me were fashionable. That was when I finally became interested in clothes.
Did you learn more and more about clothes after that?
Stephen Allan: No, actually, not really. In fact, it might be the opposite. . I felt that I could not do drawing, and that it would be difficult for me to jump into the fashion world. . So, instead of viewing fashion as a profession, I naturally came to enjoy it as something I liked.
I see. In other words, you enjoyed wearing and looking at the clothes rather than delving deeper into them.
Stephen Allan. Yes, that's right. My parents owned a jewelry store and I liked clothes, so I followed them when they went shopping. I went to Ralph Lauren stores and department stores and looked at all kinds of clothes and filled my head with the keyword "fashion.
Ralph Lauren is one of the most famous American brands, but were you influenced by their style? I feel that there is a similarity between your creations and those of Steven Alan.
Stephen AllanStephen Allan: There are many influences on how he approaches his customers. However, I have been influenced from a different place in terms of style.
What are the differences?
Stephen Allan. I loved to dress downtown. I loved the twist on the classics and the high street, not the Ralph Lauren style. . It was the kind of style that could be worn to a party or on the street.
Stephen Alan's creations are elegant, yet have a somewhat relaxed feel, and that is the root of the brand, isn't it?
Stephen Allan.: I can't say that everything is condensed there, but there is no doubt that I was influenced by it. . I am from New York City, but I went to school in California for college. . So I have a mix of East and West cultures in my mind, and I try to mix them well in the creation of my brand.
Steven's thoughts on the current state of New York fashions.
Please let us know if there is anything you are conscious of when you wear clothes in general.
Stephen Allan. wear clothes that are the right size for you. . This is the only way to go. I can't give you specific advice, because each person's size fits differently... (laughs).
What kind of clothes do you usually wear?
Stephen Allan. I don't wear suits very often. I usually wear a shirt over a T-shirt and choose the silhouette of the pants depending on my mood. As you probably know, I like shirts, so I have a lot of shirts in my closet. . I like easy, minimalist combinations rather than lots of layering.
When you are in New York, what kind of places do you go shopping?
Stephen Allan. almost always I buy from my own store (laughs). Sometimes I buy vintage items at a store called "Stella Dallas" in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. It is owned by a Japanese national and is a vintage store with a large selection of items.
What styles, brands, and items are in focus in New York today?
Stephen Allan. I feel that the current movement in New York is that each person wears what he or she likes in the style he or she likes. People are enjoying fashion by mixing high-brand and fast-brand items. I feel this is a very good trend. Until recently, the brands had the initiative. . I am talking about the trend that if you wear a popular brand, you can't go wrong. . But now, I feel that the power of the brands is disappearing.
Why do you think that is?
Stephen Allan. The reason why the brand was so popular was because it offered original creations that were within one's reach. . Distribution was also limited. However, some of these brands are now available in department stores, and they are now creating creations for the masses. It is a great merit that anyone can enjoy fashion whenever they want, but in some cases, it may lack interest. The interesting point of fashion is how to pursue one's own style and enjoy coordinating one's own style with a limited number of items. What is important is the balance between business and creation. I believe that expressing this well is an important aspect of running a brand.
The best tips on how to create a restaurant, learned from the filmmaker Woody Allen.
Steven Alan has opened many stores in the U.S., and now you have opened your sixth store in Japan, Steven Alan Yokohama. You have been running in the field of fashion for many years, expanding your creations and keeping your followers on their toes. What is the secret behind this?
Stephen Allan.: The items that we offer in the store are placed in the items that I feel empathy for the creations. I want to emphasize the designer's own roots, thoughts, and the story behind each item. It is important to convey this to the customers.
I see.
Stephen Allan. Also, when it comes to creating stores, we believe that it is important to create stores that are suited to the locality. Our stores in California, San Francisco, New York, etc. all have different characteristics. Of course, our stores in Japan are no different. The reason why each store is different is that each store should be a neighbor of the people who live in that area. There is nothing wrong with a store that is loved by the locals. . I learned this from Woody Allen's movies.
Stephen Alan Yokohama opened in March. The restaurant is located in a spot overlooking the ocean, as is typical of Yokohama.
He made a film called "A Delicious Life," which is set in a doughnut store.
Stephen Allan. yes, I agree. He brings the world of New York to the screen so well, and his portrayal of the city is just superb. . I have a lot to learn about staging a restaurant.
Woody Allen is an iconic figure in terms of fashion, but did he have any fashion influences on your work?
Stephen Allan. I agree with the opinion that he is iconic , but I am not influenced by him. He is more of a " Ralph Lauren " kind of guy.... . but I love the films he makes.
What is your favorite work of his?
Stephen Allan. hmmm.... It is very difficult to narrow it down to one, but if I had to pick one, I would say "Manhattan". Did you know that there is a scene in this film where Woody Allen and actress Mariel Hemingway are sitting by the river talking? The location used in that scene was near where I live, and it really left an impression on me.
Before we move on to the last personal item, please tell us what you think about the future of the brand.
Stephen Allan.: I want to live through the times by always thinking innovatively. . It is not about big changes, but about adapting. While staying close to the locals, I hope to evolve the store according to the mood of the moment.
Steven Alan (CASHMERE BEANIE)
. this is a beanie from Stephen Alan. Caps are an essential part of my wardrobe, and this beanie is one of my favorites. It's cashmere, so it feels great against my skin, and I like the fact that I can wear it all the time. If I flip the folded part over, it can be used as an eye mask (laughs). (Laughs.) It's useful when I need to close my eyes and take a break at work, or even on an airplane.
Paul Smith (EYEWARE)
. "They are skeleton frames, and I bought them because I like the slightly yellowish coloring. Also, when I buy eyewear, what is important to me is that the frames should cover my eyebrows well. I like these frames because they meet that requirement and also have a beautiful shape.
STEVEN ALAN OPTICAL (MIRROR LENS SUNGLASS)
When the sun is shining, I wear my original sunglasses by Steven Alan. These are this season's items. I have always loved vintage eyewear, and I make original pieces inspired by these items. They feature a hybrid design that combines classic rounded frames with modern mirrored lenses.
NIKE GORE-TEX® (BLOUSON)
. This is a waterproof blouson made of GORE-TEX® fabric. . It has a comfy silhouette and functional details with lots of pockets. In New York, sports have become a kind of movement, and everyone is going to the gym or running around town. This has influenced fashion as well. As I said, sporty and technical items like this are one of the things I am interested in.
Steven Alan (NYLON OXFORD BAGGY PANTS)
. I bought these when I found them at Stephen Alan Tokyo in Shibuya. I usually don't wear thick pants, but when I tried them on, the silhouette was beautiful, so I bought them. With this opportunity, I am thinking of trying wide bottoms in the future (laughs)." ¥17,280 (TAX in)
THE NORTH FACE (BACK PACK)
It is a simple backpack without any decoration, but it is designed to be very functional. As a designer, I sympathize with the way it is made from the user's point of view, with its watertight zipper and cushioned laptop pocket. The brand logo is also solid and understated. I think this is just the right level for a man's bag.
NO BRAND (COIN CASE) , GANZO for Steven Alan (CARD CASE)
. The coin purse with curved lines was purchased in Florence, Italy. I forgot the brand name for a moment, but it is a one-of-a-kind item that I had engraved with my initials, 'SA. The card case, which was specially ordered from "Ganzo," is made of cordovan. The technique of shaping the leather into a round form is just amazing, and it is an item with a very high degree of perfection as a product.
SAUCONY for Steven Alan (G9 CONTROL)
In running shoes, we often see color schemes such as white and gray, but this green-based color scheme is very rare. Actually, green is one of my favorite colors. I would like to wear them with denim or military pants.