HOUYHNHNM

FEATURE|15th ANNIVERSARY COLLABORATION The 15th anniversary of NEXUSⅦ. A passionate talk session that takes a closer look behind the scenes of the gem of a collaboration item.

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NEXUSVII. 15th ANNIVERSARY COLLABORATION

NEXUS VII.'s 15th anniversary. A passionate talk session that takes us behind the scenes of the gems of collaboration items.CASE5_LOOPWHEELER

As previously reported in HOUYHNHNM's, "NEXUSVII.", which celebrated its 15th anniversary in 2016, has created a variety of anniversary items this season. In this feature, we asked Tomohiro Konno, the designer of NEXUSVII., and the creators of each item to reveal the background of their creation. This time, we take a deeper look at the collaboration with "LOOPWHEELER," known for its sweatshirts and T-shirts made on a hang knitting machine.

  • Photo_Erina Fujiwara,Yuji Yamazaki(Item)
  • Text_Yuichiro Tsuji
  • Edit_Ryo Komuta

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When did you two meet?

Satoshi Suzuki (hereinafter Suzuki)How many years ago was it? I think it was when Konno was the director of "Original Fake" and I visited his exhibition.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, I think so.

SuzukiI remember vividly going there with Mr. Katayama (Masamichi) of "Wonderwall" and Mr. Ito (Hiroshi) of "Groovisions". It was probably about 9 or 10 years ago.

What was it that led you to visit the "Original Fake" exhibition?

SuzukiKatayama-san was working on the interior of the "Original Fake" store, so during the exhibition season, he asked me if I would like to go with him. I was invited to visit him during the exhibition period. I was introduced to Mr. Konno there, and we had our first conversation. At that time, Mr. Konno was working on a special order for YKK fasteners, and I remember saying to him, "I'm amazed you made this.

I see.

SuzukiI was impressed by his attention to detail in his creations, which was true to the rumors. I think this is something that only a craftsman can understand, but even if you order a single zipper separately, you have to put in a lot of effort to make it work. I still remember the passion for fine details, which is a Japanese specialty, was clearly conveyed to me.

You knew Mr. Suzuki, didn't you?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, I had seen you in magazines and other media, so I knew of you even before I met you in person. It was right around the time when I was interested in the word "hang knitting," and I was trying to create something based on Japanese craftsmanship at "Original Fake" as well.

So, that exhibition led to the special order items with Roop Wheeler?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, that's right. But it wasn't immediate. It took me a little longer to get to Roop Wheeler. To be honest, I had received offers from other brands to do a special order of sweatshirts. But I couldn't make up my mind.... At that time, I happened to hear from a former fabric manufacturer who came to our company for sales that "there is a difference between superior and inferior hang knitting machines. I asked him, "What should I do then? I asked him what I should do, and he replied, "Loopwiller has a solid production background.

So the dots finally connected.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think that's right. So I contacted Mr. Suzuki and he agreed. From the following season, in addition to "Original Fake," we started a special-order initiative with "NEXUSⅦ. We have been working together ever since.

SuzukiI honestly don't remember how many molds I've done (laughs). (Laughs.) I think I have done more than 100 types, including the "Original Fake" and "NEXUS VII.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Loopwiller's sweatshirts really do have a vintage look and feel. They become more and more durable with repeated washings.

Suzuki: It's hard to deteriorate.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes: Yes, that's right. I immediately realized that a hang knitting machine is the best knitting machine for making vintage-like sweatshirts. I was also attracted by the fact that it could only be done in Japan.

Don't you have hang knitting machines overseas?

SuzukiI think: I think it is still in France and Germany. However, this texture can only be produced in Japan.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Japanese factories that use hanging knitting machines are built of wood.

SuzukiUnlike steel beams, wooden beams are best suited to absorb the subtle vibrations of the machine while the suspension knitting machine operates. In addition to such an environment, Japan is home to skilled craftsmen who can handle these machines, which is why we are able to produce this quality of hanged-lined garments.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The fabric is good, of course, but the sewing is also very beautiful. As you can see from the joints between the fabrics, they are carefully finished. It is made with a sewing machine called a flat seamer, which is difficult to handle and can only be used skillfully by skilled craftsmen.

SuzukiThe amount of needles in a sewing machine is large, so it requires a lot of power and skill to handle them. That's why it is difficult to sew unless you are a veteran.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I have such a background with Roop Wheeler, so I really trust them in terms of production. So I went into this project thinking about how I could arrange things.

T-shirt ¥10,000+TAX


I heard that you made a series of Star Wars sweatshirts, which are already on sale, and Mickey Mouse sweatshirts and T-shirts, which will be on sale from the first sale of 2017.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)One of the axes of NEXUSⅦ. is the word "military," and the first thing that came to mind was Mickey Mouse. During the Vietnam War, American soldiers were called Mickey Mouse. In the movie "Full Metal Jacket," there is a scene in the last scene where American soldiers walk around the battlefield singing Mickey Mouse March.

The fact that it was used as such a slang term in history inspired me to ask for T-shirts and sweatshirts with Mickey Mouse motifs.

Mickey is in a familiar standing pose, but the color of the clothes he is wearing is different from what we are familiar with.

Sweatshirt ¥19,000+TAX, Hoodie ¥28,000+TAX


the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): khaki and navy. Army and Navy. The hood of the parka has the words "PROPERTY OF NEXUSⅦ. on the hood of the parka. The phrase "PROPERTY OF" is often embroidered or painted on old military items, and I personally felt its impact, so I decided to include it on this item.

SuzukiThe Mickey Mouse prints on vintage clothing are not very expensive items. Also, most of them have acrylic or polyester mixed in with the fabric. And since that time, they started mixing cotton with synthetic fibers. I think most of the Mickey Mouse items you see in vintage clothing stores today were mass-produced around that time.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think you're right. Even in the vintage clothing market, you don't see expensive Mickey stuff.

Suzuki: The most valuable secondhand character items are Snoopy. That is why we have done Snoopy printed items several times, but this is the first time for Mickey Mouse. I think the Mickey character is for the masses, and even in the U.S., there were probably many inexpensive items that were souvenirs.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)It's the same as buying a sweatshirt or T-shirt in Hawaii that says "ABC STORE" on it.

SuzukiSo, maybe, just maybe, decades from now, these Mickey Mouse items we made will end up in vintage clothing stores. So, maybe, just maybe, in a few decades, these Mickey Mouse items that we made will be lined up in thrift stores. It would make me happy to think so, and I would be very happy if someone finds this in a thrift store 30 years from now and wears it with excitement.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think it's a very rare item. I have never heard of a 100 percent cotton, heather gray Mickey, so from that standpoint, I think we have created an unusual item this time.

I heard that the Mickey Mouse series will start selling from the first sale of 2017.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I wanted to differentiate my T-shirts from the Star Wars line, and I really wanted to make T-shirts for the new year, so I thought it would be a good seasonal fit if I sold them at the first sale, which falls right on the border between the fall/winter and spring/summer seasons. Also, shopping for the New Year is exciting, and we wanted to respond to that feeling.

We then talk to both men about their current Star Wars collections.
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